 Hey guys, so if you're watching my last video, got the O4 Sportspin completed, got some nice upgrades, nice little brush guard to front, it's turned out pretty sweet and I picked myself up a new project, picked this thing up for about 400 bucks. So, the story behind this is the guy that I bought it from, his dad, it purchases brand new and this is a 95 Polaris Sportspin 400 II stroke. So I guess the story is, every time the guy drove it, dad made him wash it after it was done, which was perfect because, look at that frame, everything's clean, normally you have something to slowly start seeing rust everywhere, but the bad part about buying somebody else's project is you never know what you're gonna get. So I guess he started taking out a part just to see what happened, which I didn't know off when I bought it and I want to know what was going on with it, so I pulled the jug off and look at that, no piston, but the engine's locked up, so I'm going to be tearing that apart and one other issue we got, well two other issues is the brakes and this tire is really wobbly so I don't know if he robbed the bearings out of it or if he broke the shaft, so I'll be finding that out. So I'm going to tear this bad boy down, rebuild the engine and for you two stroke fans out there, you get to see how I rebuild. All right guys, so I decided to make a part one and a part two to this video, otherwise it's going to be really long. The whole time I've been videotaping, I've been getting a lot of questions about brakes. In my preview I had mentioned that I was going to do a brake job on this and so I decided I'm going to shoot a video of bleeding the brakes, going through the brake system and that'll be part two. So I'm going to lay out part one for you guys so you can see how I did the motor, I mainly focused on that part and part two will be the brakes. Stay tuned to see how I take this apart. All right, let's start with the basics, going to get everything off, going to get all the components off the engine so I can get it ready to pull. I'm going to start with a clutch, got my homemade clutch puller, quarter inch sort of rod, just going to get the secondary loose and then I'm going to have to get these fender bolts off and hopefully they'll be easy to take the back track off. I have to take the roof plastic out just to get the clutch out. Part of this bad boy is going to be to take it off, just slide it off like that, which is beautiful, sometimes they're seized on. So now I can take this cover off, there's four Phillips head screws here, just tabs to bend them over and I believe those are three-inch bolts. Pull that cover off and you should be able to get that really pretty easy. All right, so for the stubborn screws, they make a punch. There's a Phillips head screwdriver on it, it's going to whap on it, it's going to turn and spin. That works great on these and based of your carburetor bolt, those screws are usually pretty stubborn too. Use that tool quite a bit. Took that screw out, now it's just ready to pop off. There's a nut off down here, there's one down there, it's a 9-16s and I got to disconnect the bolt on this back side that I could not get, so I figured I'd pull the engine out first and then I could get that nut. Now I could take this cover off and pull my stator off. Flywheel like this is always it's short, especially when it's rusty. So I'll use my impact, actually I like this electric impact I got from Harbor Freight. Works pretty good, so I'll try to pop this off and that don't work. I'll have to hit it with a hammer, snap the screw off. It took a little pounding, but I got it off. I saved the magnets, that's good. Now you could have just disconnected the stator from up top but I'm trying to save myself a headache so I'm just going to take stator bolts off right here, shot two, replacing that. Now I'll get my punch again and punch those out. Ever wanted to see how the oiler was hooked up? I'm pulling the 400 engine out of the sports vent and I've got the oiler cable I have to take off. I don't know if you can see that in there but I can see what happened with this motor, why it went the hell. I'll flip this back, I can pull that cable out, flip this up and then your cable a little notch, pull it out this way and then you can release it. Alright so I got that rusty engine pulled out. Seems like the crank and everything turns good, which is good. Counter balancer is seized up. I have a video of me splitting the case halves on an actual good engine and I'll post a link for that video if you're interested in seeing it. With this particular engine she's pretty rusty so this is going to need a little persuasion to get the case halves apart so I can get everything cleaned up and this is my persuader. So I'm going to pull the bolts off the backside so we're over here and I'm going to split this case. I'm also going to need my other persuader. I tell you I love this electric impact for getting these stubborn bolts off. Alright so I got my persuader, a couple pry bars, I got her pulled apart. This thing is really rusty, actually rusted on there which is beautiful because those are known to go bad so now I can put a fresh one in. Another counter balancer I can throw in. I think I can put it in so this should be an interesting build. So what happens when you drive through big mud puddles and just like that it's built. Rusty counter balancer out, I put a used counter balancer in, put new bearing in, put new seals in. See I got no seals there. I actually did put a different crank and I had a parts engine laying her own which is good. Actually I've got like seven parts engine to lay in her own. So yep, shell turns free like she should. Just got to order a piston and that jug that I got lucky on because the guy just freshly boarded out before water got in the engine and rusted up the counter balancer. So I don't have to worry about the cylinder at all maybe just throw a hornet stone through it, get the new piston, get this bad boy back together and I can get the sportsman fired up. Here's the cylinder, looks really clean then scratches. So I'm going to post the link that you'll see pretty quick on how to rebuild one of these engines, tear it down and completely rebuild it. I'm not going to go through that right now because this video would be really long. So stay tuned and I'll show you how I put the piston and the jug back together. Okay so I got a good clean cylinder and I'm just going to take my honing stones and clean up the cylinder a little bit before I put the new piston. Now I go with this style with the drill. There's the ones that have little balls on the end that they work actually a little better. They say to be careful with the style because you could damage the bottom of the jug. I've never had a problem with that you just got to be careful. It's real little cutting oil. Now it's going to have some nice cross hatching for my new piston. So this is what you want. With a nice crisscross pattern and your cylinder wall piston rings will seat nicely. You don't want it smooth because you'll just burn up your piston rings right away. I'm not going to use this head. I put a straight edge over it hanging it up to the light. You can see light clear as day through there. You can see how warped the head got. So I have no plans for using this. I could bring it to a machine shop and have it resurfaced or if you've seen some of my videos I've resurfaced some myself. I got this thing used online. It's a hot seat. It's nice and level. Hope with cooling. I'm sure you could find them on eBay if you looked. Yeah this should have a nice flat surface and the head gasket sealed perfectly. And now before you put your piston in you want to check your ring gap. So I'm just going to put this right here. I'm going to check my gap. What's the gap? I'm not going to tell you. You have to read the directions. So check your gap. Put your rings on. Your rings should say top on it. So that's the way you want to install it on the piston. And now she should be ready to install. All right so I got my piston ready to have the rings put on. If you notice I don't know if you're going to be able to see in the camera. I'll try to see the EX. That indicates which way the piston will go in. So that means exhaust. So that'll point towards the exhaust port. So putting the rings on isn't too terrible. I mean you could use a ring expander. I just use my fingers and there are two little notches in the piston. One here and one here. And that's where you line up your end gaps for the piston rings. So I'm going to go ahead and do this. And you want to try to do this without scratching up the piston. See that wasn't too bad. Like I said this is the worst top on there. Put it on upside down. That's going to be a bad thing. Try not to scratch the side of the piston when you do that. There you go. Now it locks in that spot there. Now I can go ahead and install my piston. Another indication if you don't have any markings on top of the piston. Where these little stoppers are for your ring gap. That's always going to be on the intake side. And the holes will be on the intake side. So if there's no markings and you're not for sure. I mean there's no holes on this side. So that's going to be your intake side. So I'll go ahead and put our first clip in. Probably should have did that first. When you put it in you want to make sure the opening isn't there. You want it to overlap that notch. And so this is a little bit of a chore. Try to do this without scratching my piston or having the pin go flying. There you go. If you ever need to get it out you just push it on this and pop right up. Put a rig over this so you don't lose the clip in the block. And so I went the wheel on the inside so it slides in nice. Don't forget your hose. All right so before I install my head gasket I want to show you guys a little tip. What's the proper way to install your head gasket? Now I've done quite a few of these engines and I've always lined up the gasket with this tab. But I want to show you something interesting. So we got that tab. Lines up with that. Now I didn't know this. I always saw these goofy little marks here. And I wasn't quite sure what the what they were for. If it was for coolant to go through and oddly enough if you flip it over what does that say? Up. So go ahead and put that on there. It lines up with that tab with that part on the head. It says up. And now you can go ahead and install your head. Like I said I got a nice aluminum one. I'm going to replace my warped one with. And the next step while I am installing the engine I'm not going to put it in place. I'm going to turn it on its side. And we're going to go ahead and get that oiler cable in place and adjust it before I mount the engine. Only because it's so much easier instead of working out from the front of the ATV. All right so this is how you install your oiler cable and where to set it. Like I said I like to do this outside of the ATV so I got the engine sitting on the footboard. Here's another quick tip. You know everybody seals the crap out of the pull start cover so water doesn't get in the engine. But everybody seems to forget about the oiler. I mean you got this cover on. You know you just got a rubber seal through here. Um you know I would recommend replacing it or you know you could take a gasket sealer and seal that up. Because if you're riding through puddles and water guess what water is going to get in here and it'll somehow seep into your counter balancer and it'll rust up the counter balancer kind of like what happened with this one. So I'm just going to throw this on here for now but I think I'm going to go ahead and seal that up real good. So if you remember in the beginning of the video I had to pull the motor out from the other side because that chain cover nut was rusted on and I couldn't get to it because the engine was in the way. So now that I had the engine out I was able to get on the back side of this. Get that bolt out. I got the chain out of the way. So now I'm going to be able to mount the motor. Be able to install the engine the way I want to. I also got the shifter levers out of the way as well. So I'm going to go ahead and throw this in. Get her bolted down and then I'm going to go ahead and do the head gasket. So um put my motor, put my bottom motor mount in now. And I've already got my top one in place. That's pretty easy. And then the one that goes there. All right let's go ahead and install that head gasket. Like I said I like to mount the engine in the ATV only because it'll hold the engine in place while I'm torquing everything down. So here's the new gasket. This is the word up on it. Line the tab up with that. I want to put that in the wrong way. Park sequence is one, two, three, four, five, six, 18 to 22 foot ponds. So I got my hoses hooked up. Now I'm putting the stator in place. And when you do that, don't forget there's a little mark here and that lines up with a little mark on the case. And then you can run your wires around and hook them back up. So before I install the flywheel, I don't know if you remember in the beginning of the video, everything was all pretty rusty and crusty. So I'm going to take a drill with the wire wheel, clean it up, especially want to make sure I get this part right here cleaned up because that's where your pickup coil reads and triggers your spark plug. Let me show you what I mean. Since that little bump goes past your trigger coil, which is right here, goes up to your spark plug fires your spark plug at the right timing. So you also want to make sure this is all nice and clean. I'm going to go ahead take the wire wheel, clean this up really nice. I got my engine installed. I got the stator wire all hooked up. You've never disconnected the stator. There's a wire that goes here. It's yellow and red. You've got your two plugs here and all the wires are matching. You've got a ground wire that comes in here. And then of course you've got your three wires that go into your rectifier. So right now I'm topping off the coolant. Right on top of the head, there's a little bolt that comes out, screw it out and that lets the air rush out of the coolant lines as you're filling the fluid. See a little bit squirted out. So that means I'm almost to the top. So basically as I'm filling the radiator, the air in the lines is pushing through there and once coolant starts trickling out of there, I'm going to close that. I'll show you what I mean. Topping this off right now. Let's see if any coolant comes out. Go ahead and close that off. It bleeds all the air out of your coolant lines. If you've got an air pocket in there, there's a chance you'll have cooling issues. So I thought I'd show you that quick tip. Basically all I've got left to do is hook up the exhaust. I'm just going to hook up that makeshift exhaust the guy had on here. And hook the fuel lines up and this baby should be ready to fire. Oh yeah, and put the spark plug in. So I got my engine all ready to fire up and you see my goofy exhaust system here. If you see that, don't do that. Somebody did that. I'll have a straight pipe, make it louder. Two strokes to get really hot. There's a reason why there's a thick exhaust on there. So I will be getting a different exhaust. But so here's what I got going on. So I got the engine all back together. She pops, she fires for a couple seconds and then it dies. I did not clean the carb and because I wanted to see what it would do. And I also noticed my kill switch was really, it was really stiff. I couldn't even move it before. I started working it back and forth to get the corrosion off of it. So one of two things are going on. My kill switch is so corroded that it's acting like it's shutting off right away. So I am going to pull the black wire on the CDI. There's your CDI box right here. Follow that black wire around. Comes up here and you can disconnect it. And just to kind of verify that that's not the issue. The other issue is I will be cleaning the carburetor, but I just wanted to see what it would do. The needle and seats in the float bowl are not closing all the way. So gas is draining out the overflow tube and out of my hose. One thing to keep in mind, if you see that going on and you don't shut your fuel off, all that fuel is going to dump right into your engine. And it'll cause it to lock up on you. Hydro locking is what they call it. So there is a screw at the bottom of the case. You can open that up during the case if you do have fuel in there. So I'm going to do two different tests. One, I'm going to disconnect the black wire. And the other, I have a spare carburetor laying around with the throttle. Well that was another thing too. The choke doesn't open all the way either. It's stiff. So that might be part of my issue too. I'm guessing it's a carburetor issue, but it could be the kill switch also. So I'm going to swap out that carb and see what happens. The new carb on. Kill switch works. So it was the carb. All right, so I got everything running decent. Just going to get our button up, put back together. And I'm going to do part two on the brakes. So stay tuned for the next video.