 Dedication and introduction of Silver Chimes in Syria, glimpses of a missionary's experience. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Larry Wilson. Silver Chimes in Syria, glimpses of a missionary's experience by William S. Nelson. Dedication. July 17, 1888, Cincinnati, Ohio. This book is affectionately inscribed to her who has been the companion of my life for twenty-five years, my helper in all my work, my cheer and comfort in all circumstances, the maker of my home, the source of all the disilvery in the chimes that ring today. Home, Syria, July 17, 1913. Preface. When a terse is seated on the deck of a steamer, waiting to leave the country in which he has enjoyed an outing, his eyes do not seek the low-lying shore of the sea, for the memories he would retain hereafter. He lifts his eyes to the overhanging mountains, nor is it the whole massive range that holds his vision. He looks instinctively to the scattered lofty summits which stand aloof as it were from the monotony of the lower range, especially as the sun sinks below the western horizon, do his eyes dwell lovingly on those highest peaks which are colored with the light of the setting sun. My purpose in sending out this collection of sketches is somewhat the same. I have not attempted a continuous narrative, with all the monotony of repeated acts, but have sought to make vivid to the reader some of the more conspicuous features of missionary life, in the hope of deepening sympathy with the workers, and increasing zeal in the work. That is my excuse for the pre-use of the personal pronoun, not to make prominent the person, but to emphasize the reality. May the volume be enjoyed by our fellow workers in America, and blessed by him whom we all serve. End of Preface. Chapter 1 of Silver Chimes in Syria. Glimpses of Emissionaries' Experiences. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Joseph Barbaccia at www.paradisestudio.com. Silver Chimes in Syria. Glimpses of Emissionaries' Experiences by William S. Nelson. One. Every individual makes a new personal discovery. As with the passage of years, he realizes the difference between the long look forward over a given period, and the long backward over the same period, when it is completed. To the new arrival on the field of the veteran of 25 years' experience appears to have spent a very long time in the service. But as he looks back over his own life, at the end of a similar period, he wonders that he ever entertains such an opinion. Looking back to the year 1888, the events of that time do not seem at all remote, and it is hard to realize that to anyone that year can appear a very long way in the past. On the last day of October, in the early morning, a steamer of the Austrian Lloyd line cast anchor in front of Beirut. That was long before the building of the harbor, and all vessels tossed in the open roadstead at the mercy of wind and wave, only slightly sheltered by the long headlin of Ras Beirut, where the tall lighthouse rears its slender shaft, and where the Syrian Protestant college stands as a more important symbol of light giving. The anchor was scarcely dropped before the little boats from the shore cradled about the ladders, and the boatmen came swarming over the sides of the vessel to take possession of the passengers and carry them ashore. It is always a perplexing but interesting scene to the newcomer. The curious costumes of many colors give an appearance of gaiety to the crowd. The shouting of the guttural Arabic makes one think of Babel. The wild gesticulating of the excited people suggests the possibility of a riot. The seizing of baggage and pulling of passengers by eager boatmen make one think that the day of personal liberty and private property is passed. As a rule, however, it is all good-natured, and the noise is more bantering than quarreling. In fact, one soon becomes accustomed to the turmoil as an indication of lack of orderly proceeding in the Orient. Among the first figures to appear on deck that October morning was one quieter but no less eager than the Arab boatmen. He quickly made his way to the room of the new missionaries just arriving from America, prepared to take them ashore and even to escort them at once to his own home in Sidon. It was a most welcome home-like experience to the tire travelers, and the cheery voice and cordial welcome of Mr. W. K. Eddy will never be forgotten. There were many things in the journey thus ended that had made a trying. The young couple had crossed the Atlantic entirely among strangers, and the ocean had not been kind to them. Seag's sickness is never a happy experience, and when it becomes a continuous performance, in connection with a wedding journey, it seems most inappropriate. Pleasant visits with the family, friends, and relatives in Scotland have faced the memories of the Atlantic. Visiting new scenes in beautiful places in Switzerland gave much pleasure by the way, but in an unfortunate day the germs of malaria had been absorbed, and southern Italy was reached with fever and weakness that made sightseeing a burden. Who can forget his first glimpse of the real Orient at Port Said? The noise and the dirt, the squalor and the glaring sun, the rush of the crowd, and the utter lonesomeness of the stranger make a contrast and mixture that are not easily matched in life's ordinary experiences. Four days were to pass before a steamer went to Beirut. It was not a pleasant prospect for travelers homesick and weak from fever to have to tarry for four days in a dismal hotel with nothing attractive in the way of companionship or occupation. Besides this our trunks had not been sent forward as promised and we were obliged to depend upon the limited hand baggage with which we had crossed the continent. It is easy to imagine the sensations with which the young bride look forward to making her first appearance among strangers with a face pale from fever and an outfit so unexpectedly limited. The hearty welcome of Mr. Eddy on the deck of that Austrian steamer in Beirut Harbor was a needed tonic and his skill and experience readily passed us through the intricacies of the Custom House and brought us to the hospitable home of his father. Of the friends who conspired to make those first days bright many have been called away to the other shore. Though others are still our associates in the service of Syria. Dr. and Mrs. W. Eddy with whom we spent our first ten days in Syria left us many years ago. Dr. Samuel Jessup was always thoughtful bringing bright flowers from his garden to continue the impression of his bright face and cheery words when he called upon the strangers. He and Mrs. Jessup whose home was one of the brightest spots of those early years have also gone on before to their well-earned reward. Mr. March coming down from the mountains on his way to Tripoli was especially ready in his plans for the comfort of his new associates in Tripoli Station. But it is not necessary to mention each one. The beauty of missionary life is the unity of fellowship and the completeness with which every newcomer is received into the intimacy and love of the circle which is only less close and intimate than that of the family itself. After ten days spent in Beirut in trying to get rid of the malaria and in acquiring some knowledge of the Arabic alphabet we went on to Tripoli, our future home. It was a cold windy Saturday afternoon. We were taken out to the steamer in a small boat which tossed on the restless waves in a way which we supposed to be normal. The steamer was small and crowded with a miscellaneous company most of whom were not happy to say the least. Fortunately it is only a four hours ride for the wind increased in violence as we proceeded and when the anchor was dropped at sundown off Tripoli it seemed doubtful whether any boats would come out to meet us. In due time however a boat pulled alongside and there was Mr. March who would come out over that rough sea to welcome us to our new home though he did not think we would venture to start from Beirut in such a storm. The steamer was rolling so badly that the ladder could not be lowered at all and we crept out on it as it lay horizontally along the ship's side and then when the tip was lowest simply dropped into the arms of the boatmen below. Then began the laborious pull for the shore. We were two hours reaching land our clothes soaked our spirits at zero but most happy to reach the warm cozy haven of the March home in the Mina of Tripoli. It was the beginning of a most beautiful fellowship with Mr. and Mrs. March and their children whose sweet introduction of themselves won our hearts at once and who though now grown to maturity still call us by the old affectionate titles of Uncle and Aunt. Thus for the second time in our short missionary experience we were made to feel the comfort and peace of being taken into the warmth and love of a Christian home no longer as strangers but as brethren. We wished to take possession of our own home as soon as possible. Our household goods were in the custom house and another first experience was before us. Everything had to be examined and its purpose explained to the satisfaction of the Turkish inspector. To him it seemed a wholly unnecessary amount of furniture for one person for of course he could not recognize that the wife's existence made any difference. A box of class photographs was examined in detail and great surprise manifested that one person should have so many friends. A small vase for flowers in the shape of a kettle resting on five legs puzzled the examiner until he picked up the perforated piece of soap dish and decided that he had found the appropriate adaptation of the two pieces. It did not seem necessary to explain so long as he was satisfied and no harm was done. We had many things to learn besides the language. Our home belonged to a man whose name was translated to us as Mr. Victory of God Brass. In an arch under the parlor windows he had hung a donkey skull and some beads to keep off the evil eye of jealousy from his fine house. It was a pleasant house, well located near the city gate which had been known in former days as a donkey gate. Only a few minutes walk from the girl's school and just at the end of the tram line connecting the city with the harbor two miles distant. In planning for our new home we had indulged in the luxury of two pairs of simple lace curtains for our parlor windows. When we entered the house our amazement can hardly be exaggerated at the discovery that the parlor had not two but eight windows each calling for curtains twelve feet long. Our lace curtains were regulated to service elsewhere. Mr. Eddy had kindly arranged to come up from Sidon to help us in this first settling of our new home and his help and companionship were invaluable. He went with me to the shops to purchase such things as were needed and the shopkeepers recognized at once his fluent Arabic and his companions ignorance of the language. More than one shopkeeper called him aside and asked him to bring the stranger to them for his purchases, promising him a handsome commission for his services. The house was soon made habitable and just three weeks after our first landing in Syria we slept under our own roof with our own possessions about us and we're ready to begin our own independent home life in the land of our adoption. We had made our beginning and a bright happy beginning it was notwithstanding the difficulties and drawbacks inevitable in such conditions. End of one Recording by Joseph Barbaccia www.paradisestudio.com For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Recording by Larry Wilson Silver Chimes in Syria Limpses of a Missionaries Experience by William S. Nelson Language Study Whatever differences there may be in experiences in missionary life all missionaries are faced with the most troublesome experience in learning a new language. It is more or less natural for everyone who concerns himself. Our children are always a little better than our neighbors. Our cook makes better bread than anyone else. And mother's pies, well that calls for no argument. It is much the same way among missionaries. It is probable that there are just about as many hardest languages in the world as there are distinct mission fields. But then there must be one that is really the hardest and we in Syria think we come pretty well up on the list even though we do not claim absolute preeminence. The Arabic, although rich and beautiful is certainly a difficult language. And I am sure the Syria mission would give unanimous vote on the resolution that it is the toughest linguistic proposition we have ever attacked. It was one of the terse and suggestive remarks of Dr. Henry Jessup that at the end of the first year the new missionary thought he knew the Arabic. At the end of the second year he thought he knew nothing. And at the end of the third year he wondered how he got hold of it. The isolation of a new missionary is at times appalling. No matter how kind and helpful the older missionaries may be they are strangers after all with whom one must get acquainted. The houses are strange and not adapted to make one feel at home readily. Servants with their very imperfect knowledge of English must be directed mainly by signs. In these scenes unbearably dirty the sun is unaccountably hot even in winter. The food is strange and does not appeal to a Westerner's appetite. But worst of all among the babble of noises there is not a familiar sound and with the best intentions of friendliness one cannot reveal the intention except by the perpetual inane grin. We begin the study of the language as everyone does almost at the wharf. Even before recovering from the effects of the voyage the Arabic primer with its alphabet was brought to the bedside. At one of the earliest lessons in Tripoli the old gray-birded teacher wished to impress a new word mill. He repeated the difficult combination and then inquired in some way whether we knew what the word meant. The look of black ignorance on our faces gave him the answer and he rose since depth with dignity in his flowing robes to the door. Opening this he called in a loud voice across the open court to the cook. Peter bring me some salt. Then with a little of this household necessity in his palm he came back to his stupid pupils and pointing at the salt said emphatically mill. That word was permanently fixed in our vocabulary. In less than two months after our arrival in Syria and 40 days after taking possession of our own home came New Year's Day. With the self-confidence of youth and ignorance we decided to keep open house on our own account. In the forenoon we had our language teacher with us to steer us through the intricacies of Oriental etiquette and to tell us what to say in the varying circumstances and all went well. After dinner however we excused him as we did not expect many more calls and waited our fate. After a time when the parlor was well filled with a mixed company of men and women among whom was the old teacher who had taught us the word for salt I used the wrong pronomial termination probably demasculine for I should have used the feminine. The old gentleman rose from his place with great impressiveness and started round the entire circle pointing his finger at each person and pronouncing distinctly to every man, talk, and to every woman, dick. It created a laugh of course but it is needless to say that whatever mistakes I have made in Arabic sense it has never been because I did not know the difference between the masculine and the feminine form of the second person pronomial ethics. Chapter 3 Travel and Communication In preparing for the active service of a missionary it was necessary to have a horse and a touring outfit. Our servant was told that we wanted to buy a horse and if he heard of any good chance to let us know. In a few days a man came to the house with a large gray mare for me to try. I rode on her a little and examined her so far as I was capable of doing and was greatly pleased with her. I knew enough however of oriental methods to show no particular zeal over the matter and left the owner without any indication of my pleasure. In my own mind I decided that I should like to own that mare and that I would be willing to pay as much as twenty pounds for her though I hoped to secure a horse for half that amount. As I came in I told the servant the inquiry about the price of the mare. He returned soon saying the owner would sacrifice his own interests so far as to let me have her for seventy-five pounds. I did not buy that mare but waited several months until I found a sturdy gray horse which I bought for less than ten pounds. He served me well for five years when I sold him for a little less than the original cost. Tripoli Field was rejoicing and congratulating itself in those days over the macadamized road recently opened between Tripoli at the coast and Homs and Hommath in the interior. It was sixty-five miles to Homs and thirty-five more to Hommath. A cumbersome diligence made the trip to Homs in eleven hours going one day and returning the next and a lighter vehicle made the round trip between Homs and Hommath every day. This was a great advance in rapid transit and a great convenience in all lines of work. In all Syria there was not a mile of railroad and in northern Syria there was no carriage road besides the one line just mentioned. All traveling had to be done on horseback or a foot. Horses, donkeys, mules and camels were the universal means of travel and transportation. Every day caravans of camels came into Tripoli by the hundred bringing grain, olive oil and Syrian butter from the interior. They returned loaded with sugar, rice, kerosene oil and English yarn and cloth. The first railroad was built in the early nineties from Jaffa to Jerusalem. Later came the line from Beirut to Damascus then the line from Haifa through Galilee to Damascus the line from Damascus to the south and the line from Damascus to Medina. Then came the branch line from the Beirut to Damascus line to Homs, Hamath and Aleppo. And finally the Tripoli-Homs line and the German Baghdad line passing through Aleppo from east to west. With many other lines and extensions under consideration it is evident that railroad communication is fairly started in Syria and that this part of the east can feel the influence of steam. During our first year in Tripoli before I was at all familiar with the various places I overheard a conversation between two of our associates about a recent trip to Beirut by land. The remark was made I suppose you took a carriage from Junior to Beirut this is about one fourth of the distance and was considered a great gain in the facilities of transportation. However came with even greater evidence of satisfaction. No, I rode in a carriage from Jabail. This meant a doubling of the advantage as Jabail is halfway between Tripoli and Beirut. That was in 1889 and it was not until 1912 that this carriage road was completed so that one could make the whole distance on wheels. The tramway connecting Tripoli city in the Mina or harbor was the only tramway in Syria and was an object of great pride. It had a single track about two miles long with a switch in the middle for the passing of cars from the opposite ends. A car started from each terminus about once in 20 minutes and made the trip in about the same length of time. The fare being 4 cents and the motor power horses or mules. The cars were originally imported from Ham of the double decker type. They are still in daily service receiving a fresh coat of paint and necessary repairs every year. This line continues to run though with somewhat more frequent service and with a reduced fare of 2 cents since public carriages now run on a road alongside the tram. The carriage roads now extend in several directions from Tripoli and there are many public carriages to hire. Even an automobile is occasionally seen and several bicycles have made their appearance. The postal system is a curiosity to those who are accustomed to free delivery several times a day. It would be supposed that the Turkish post would carry all letters for people in Turkey since Turkey is a member of the International Postal Union. At all the seaports however one finds foreign post offices which do a large business in receiving and forwarding mail by all the steamers. Two points in the interior they cannot deliver mail. In Tripoli we had the French and later the Austrian service. In 1890 cholera appeared in Tripoli and all steamers stopped calling at the port to avoid quarantine. We were confined to the use of the Turkish mail. Two messengers brought the mail by land from Beirut it was Tripoli which was infected with cholera and yet the incoming mail was stopped outside the city and drenched with carbolic acid while the outgoing mail was not touched. The mail distributor in Tripoli could not read any language not even Arabic and so he used to bring the bag directly to our house and empty it on the floor in order to get my help in assorting the letters for him. Tripoli did not receive the mail as it assured our receiving all our own mail and that promptly. At the last conference of the international postal union there was a general reduction of postage and an increase in the unit of weight. Turkey has given her adherence to this international agreement but maintains her old internal rates so that we have the present absurd condition abroad while it will carry only 15 grams from one town to its neighbor. Additional weight abroad requires three quarters of a piaster for each additional 20 grams while for internal use every additional 15 grams requires a full piaster thus a letter weighing 60 grams will go from an interior town like Homs or San Francisco for two piasters and a half while the same letter if sent from Homs to Tripoli would cost four piasters. It might be supposed that there would be good caravan roads at least in a country where all produce must be carried on quadrupeds and all travelers must ride or walk. The reverse was true and though the past 25 years have witnessed great improvement in this respect there is still much to be desired in most localities. Many of the roads cannot be described as anything but trails through the rocky ground. The chief consideration in locating a road seems to be to have it run through ground which is fit for nothing else for it would be a pity to waste arable ground and so a road must go around no matter what the distance. Whatever stones are gathered from the fields are thrown into the highway making it rougher than ever. In some parts of the mountains the road will lie along the top of a solid stone dike 10 to 15 feet wide from which the traveler looks down to a depth of 8 or 10 feet upon the fields and mulberry patches on each side. It has been said that a road in Syria is that part of the country to be avoided in traveling so far as possible. This inference is easy to understand when you notice that all the trodden paths are in the fields at either side and that people travel in the rough roads only when there is no escape. While the grain is growing the farmers will do their best by building up stone walls to keep the animals out of their fields but just as soon as the harvest is gathered these obstructions go down and the current of traffic resumes the easier course until the winter rains make the mud a worse enemy than the rough stones. In other places it is often an interesting study to try to decide whether the water flows in the road or whether people travel in the water courses. It is something like the insolvable question as to which came first the hen or the egg. The fact remains that as a rule in wet weather and rough country the traveler will find his horse splashing through a stream of water flowing down the road. The explanation is simple there is nowhere any system of drainage and every man's purpose to turn the streams of rainwater away from his own land. Useful land cannot be wasted for water courses any more than for roads and hence the wastelands are devoted to the double purpose with the resulting confusion as to which is the intruder. The obscurity of the roads leads to many more or less unpleasant experiences. There roads so steep and difficult that it is no unusual experience to see a deer take hold of his mule's tail as he goes down the mountain path and by a judicious holding back help the animal to study himself under a heavy awkward load. On the other hand when he is going up the mountain the tired mule deer will take hold of the same convenient handle to get a little help for himself in the ascent. One summer night Mrs. Nelson and I were belated on the higher slopes of Mount Lebanon the trail was little more than a path for goats and was quite unfamiliar to us. In the dark night we lost the way more than once and we were becoming quite exhausted in repeating efforts to regain the path when at last we seemed to have strayed completely and I could not locate the road at all. We had to take a little rest and wait for the moon to rise. We sat upon the mountain side under the shade of fragrant cedars tired, hungry and thirsty. The surroundings were charming and the dim outlines of forest and mountain beautiful. The night air was refreshing after an exceptionally hot day but when one has lost his way he is not in a condition to appreciate fully the beauties of nature or the charms of his surroundings. As we sat there gaining some rest I began to study the outline of the hills and concluded that the road must lie in a certain curve of the mountains not far away. On investigating I found my impression correct and we resumed our journey reaching our destination just as the moon appeared over the highest ridge of the mountains. On another occasion it was the intelligence of my horse rather than my own which saved me considerable inconvenience. I was belated upon the mountain and overtaken by sunset some eight miles from my destination. Confident in my horse as well as in myself I pushed on as rapidly as possible over the rough path. To add to my difficulty a thick mountain fog settled about me until it was impossible to see the path ten feet ahead. In descending a steep slope leading my horse I missed the trail and found myself in the vineyards. I knew that the village was close at hand and anticipated no difficulty in working down to the road. At any rate it seemed likely that we should arouse the night watchman in the vineyard and it would be his duty to turn us out of the vineyard exactly what we wished for. We stumbled along over grapevines and stones but came no nearer to the road. Nor did we disturb the sleeping watchman. After what seemed like endless wandering though the distance was not far nor the time long I came up against my own wall and could see a path beyond. Getting over this wall was simple but which way to turn in the road was not clear. I tried the turn to the right tentatively not fully convinced myself my horse yielded reluctantly and walked very slowly indeed over the rough stones. After a few minutes my own doubts increased and I determined to test the horse. Dropping the reins loosely on his neck gave him no sign of guidance at all. As soon as he felt the relaxing of pressure on the bits his head rose, his ears stood erect and he seemed to cast an inquiring glance out of the corner of his eye. When convinced that he was free to choose for himself he immediately swung around and started a rapid walk in the opposite direction. In a very few minutes I could see the village lights struggling through the mists and was soon at my own door. This same horse gave me another illustration of his intelligence. I was riding along the carriage road on the seashore, intending to turn up to one of the mountain villages. There were two roads to this village and when we came to the first my horse tried to turn up but was easily held back and started briskly along as if fully understanding my purpose. When we came to the second road we found that it had been plowed under and that grain several inches high was growing where the path had been. I knew that the road had been moved a short distance so as to pass a con recently erected. The horse had not yet gone over this altered road and so was puzzled. I left him to his own guidance. When he came to the point where the road had divided he stopped and looked at the grain and then went slowly on looking constantly at the field until after about twenty or thirty feet he decided to make a plunge struck directly through the growing grain to where the old road had been at the other edge of the field. The introduction of railroads and carriages throughout the country facilitates travel and business a great deal but it takes away much of the interest and diversion of getting about from place to place. End of section three. Chapter four of Silver Chimes in Syria Glimpses of a Missionaries Experiences This is a LibriVox recording All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Silver Chimes in Syria Glimpses of a Missionaries Experiences by William S. Nelson Chapter four Evangelistic Trips It was a practice with us for many years to arrange a special evangelistic medical trip in the spring of the year. Sometimes Mrs. Nelson and I would join Dr. Harris in a journey of two or three weeks and sometimes the doctor and I would go alone. One of the most memorable of these journeys was in the spring of 1893 in the month of May we had our tent and camp outfit and the large chests of medical supplies carried on mules and were accompanied by our cook with his portable kitchen packed away under him and the Assyrian assistant of the doctor so that we made quite a party altogether. We started along the shore north from Tripoli making our first camp about ten miles out of the city. The next day's journey brought us to Tartus on the shore opposite the land of Arvad Ezekiel 27 8 This island lies only a short distance from the shore but I have never yet been able to reach it because of the violent west wind on each occasion of a visit to Tartus. The island is wholly covered by the town which is occupied by sturdy sailors and fishermen. There are many interesting relics in Tartus for it is possible that many of the coins offered to the credulous public may have been produced recently in a place itself. At the edge of the town stands a fine Gothic church whose substantial walls and graceful arches are a pleasure to the eye. The empty windows make one feel lonesome as he approaches the building and the bare interior speaks of decadent Christianity that adds to the sadness but worst of all is the minuet crudely built in the corner of the roof for this is another of the many Christian churches in Turkey which have been transformed into mosques. As another of our camping places we found near at hand an old Roman amphitheatre where it was not difficult to imagine a concourse of pleasure seekers seated on the stone benches watching some exhibition of strength or skill in the arena below. Wherever one goes in Syria he is reminded of an ancient glory and power in close and vivid contrast to a present state of decay and weakness. Our first sabbath on this journey found us at Latakia where we spent the day with our neighbours and fellow workers of the Reformed Presbyterian mission. This mission was started especially to reach the Nusairi people of North Syria. Because of the persistent interference of the Turkish government their work had been greatly hampered and their efforts largely restricted to the training of boys and girls in the boarding institutions in the city and administration to the sick in the hospital. It was a great pleasure to have this break in our journey and a pleasant intercourse with those engaged in the same kind of service as our own and to have the privilege of speaking to the young people in their schools. On Monday we went a short distance from the city pitching our tent near a village a considerable size on the plain some miles back from the sea. As I sighted the moonlight at the door of the tent a man wearing the white turban of a muslim scholar approached me he seated himself near me after a pleasant greeting and we fell into a agreeable conversation. After some time this man took the opportunity when no one was near enough to overhear him to ask most earnestly that we should send them a teacher for their children. I was surprised at the request from such a source and turned the conversation so as to make sure that he understood who we were and what kind of schools we conducted. He showed that he understood the matter fully and that he really desired a protestant Christian teacher for his town. I then asked him directly are you not a muslim? Looking about again to make sure no one should hear him he said Yes, I am a muslim now with an emphasis on the last word to reveal the facts in the case. He was of a new essaye family but had yielded to the persistent pressure of the government so far as to accept the form of adherence to Islam though in his heart he hasted the system and its followers most cordially. A long dosed ride brought us through the wild and torturous valley of the new Earl Candel up the slope of Mount Cassius to the town of Kessab some four thousand feet above the sea where the Latakia missionaries have their summer houses. It was the most beautiful fur-rugged ride and would have been fully enjoyable in good weather. The wild flowers were in full bloom and every turn in the road brought into view a new combination of varied and bright colours where the little blossoms clustered amid the green foliage among the grey rocks. The great drawback to our enjoyment lay in the fact that for a large part of the distance we rode in a heavy and most unexpected rainfall. We were not prepared for such an experience in the month of May and so reached our destination soaked and cold. We had been directed to take possession of one of the cottages belonging to the missionaries in the Latakia and it was certainly the most welcome haven. We were able to light a fire in the kitchen stove and spread out our wet garments to dry while we warmed ourselves in the grateful heat. It was a disappointment the next day that the top of Cassius was enveloped in heavy cloud, forbidding and ascent. This mountain is about five thousand feet in height rising directly from the sea and so is a conspicuous object from every direction and gives an extensive view from its summit. We could tarry but one day and descend to the old site of Solucia at the mouth of the Orontes and saw some remnants of the old harbour for which Paul set sail more than once. The Orontes is quite wide and deep near its mouth and we crossed it in such a wirefairy as I have seen many years before on the Connecticut River in Massachusetts. The gardens of Swadia were most refreshing with their green verdeur, cureshade and rich fruit after a long day's ride in the heat. And again we had the pleasure of missionary fellowship for our friends at Reformed Presbytery Mission have a station here also. Another easy stage brought us to Old Antioch so closely associated with the beginning of Christian history. It is not an attractive city in outward appearance and has suffered much at different times from the earthquake. From Antioch we followed the Orontes valley up to Hamath where we were once more among our own organized stations. Such journeys gave us an acquaintance with the country and the people which is of the most vital importance in planning for the proper expansion of the work. Once on a pleasant summer evening we were encamped near a Nuresea village. Among those gathered about us were an elderly peasant and his son a well-built, sturdy youth of 17 or 18 years. As he set before us his young man appeared to be in perfect health and vigor, but when he arose to walk his awkward gate revealed his misfortune for both feet were so proudly deformed that he walked on his ankles and not on the soles of his feet. The doctor was asked whether this defect could be remedied. After a careful examination the lad was told that the operation would be painful and that some time it would be required but that if he would come to the hospital prepared to stay as long as should be necessary he would be able to come away walking erect like other people. The face is brightened at once and we shared in their pleasure the prospect of this deliverance. The next morning however we were told that the family brought over the matter and decided not to have the operation performed. We assured them there should be no expense but they said it was not the matter of expense then we told them of similar cases which had been successfully treated but they assured us they had no doubt of the doctor's skill. We encouraged the young man to bear the pain for the sake of increased enjoyment in life afterwards but he said he was not afraid of the pain what then was the trouble at last we learned the truth so long as the lad could show to such close feet he would be excused in military service but if they were made straight he would then be called to the army and he would rather go through life a cripple than to give several years of his vigor to service in the Turkish army and he is no exception. We were approaching a large town of bigoted people wondering how we should secure an opening for our message I was riding slightly in front of the doctor occupied with plans for securing access to the people suddenly I heard the doctor's voice behind me saying boy do you want your eyes straightened on looking back I saw a lad of about 15 years with a decidedly crossed eye beside the doctor's horse he promptly accepted the offer and we hasted to dismount and tie our horses a table in the little roadside cafe was quickly cleared while the doctor got out his case of instruments on his saddlebags the boy was placed on the table and in an incredibly short time the calls were severed so that the eyeball took its proper position and we were thoroughly advertised by the time our camp equippage came up we had been provided with an excellent place to camp, had nothing to complain of in the reception of the people a memorable experience was in the neighbourhood of a large village whose gardens are said to be watered by 300 springs whatever the correct number may be there is no question about the abundance of water and the luxuriance of the gardens we had three tents one for medical clinics and one apiece for our two households and settled down for fortnight's work every day we had crowds about the tent for medical attention and for religious services the evenings gave abundant opportunity for work among those who gathered about us after their day's work was done they were glad to join in the hymns of praise and listened earnestly to the spoken message and read word one evening the boys who gathered about the tent told me that the superintendent of their school was in town and had begun an examination to be finished the next day I decided to go to the school the next morning to make the acquaintance of the superintendent and see what the school was doing when I arose the following day I found many of the boys about the tent and asked them why they were not at school for the examination oh they said there is no examination today early this morning the superintendent the teachers and the head man of the village took their horses a large bottle of spirits and a young kid it went up to the top of the mountain to a famous spring to spend the day in a drinking spree one of the pleasantest evenings I remember in my regular routine touring or spent in the same village we had brought our party to a garden owned by one of our friends who was always glad to have us make it our headquarters we had eaten our supper and were seated on the ground under a high branching tree into which was trained a huge grapevine behind us was a little hut in which the caretaker slept in stormy weather at one side was a rude boff where the owner slept during the summer an oil lantern gave some light one by one quite a group of neighbours and friends assembled and after some general conversation we sang some hymns then I opened the bible for a little reading with simple exposition as I read and talked to them the row of dark faces was turned to water me with an intentness and eagerness to hear that made me hope they might not see me or hear my words but hear those words of lies spoken so many years ago in Palestine and see that face in which alone shines the true light we are not always left to do as we please in these trips for the paternal Turkish government has taken unnecessary interest in our plans and shows an excessive concern for our safety we had crossed a rugged section of the mountains and come down to a ward town which is a government centre here we camp near the town and were promptly favoured with a call from officials sent by the governor to find out who we were we paid a formal call on his excellency we were allowed to remain quietly as long as we desired when we broke camp a polite message came from the governor asking where we were going and offering a garden escort we returned a grateful acknowledgement of his courtesy but assured him that we were familiar with the roads and would not trouble him to send an escort it was only after some difficulty that we succeeded in getting away alone we learned afterwards that we were followed and that in accordance with instructions from headquarters word was sent from place to place to keep watch of us at one large town we had large crowds about our camp and large audiences for evening services for several days when suddenly there was a change and no one came near us apparently the sick were all healed and all the interest in singing and conversation had ceased it developed that word had been sent to the nearest government centre and orders had come back at once not to interfere with our comfort but to notify the people to have nothing to do with us at one of these places which were all occupied by Neurosire and Ishmaelia people Mrs. Nassan was talking with some of the women about religion they said do Christian women have any religion? when assured that we believe religion to be for everyone whether male or female rich or poor, wise or ignorant they replied it is not so with us a woman with us can have no share in religion if one of us should accidentally overhear the man talking about religious beliefs so that she unintentionally learns some religious doctrine she ought to acknowledge it and be put to death and it is right to be so for a woman must know nothing of religion on another occasion quite a party of us stopped to spend the night in one of those towns while I was busy with arrangement for the night other members of the party went to look about the little castle at the edge of the town our presence was reported to the acting governor unfortunately he was a man of surly disposition and anxious to magnify his office he demanded our Turkish passports which he had a technical right to do unfortunately some of the party had failed to provide themselves with these documents as they were sold and called for he gave our little governor a chance and he used it insisting that he must send us to Haimath practically under guard but normally under military protection we were intending to go to Haimath but not directly and so it was finally agreed that the horsemen go with us to Mahada where we were to lodge and accompany us the following day to Haimath when we started out the next morning it was ludicrous to see the haughty heirs of this soldier who was sent with us he acted as if he really believes these foreigners were committed to his absolute control and carried his head very high before going many miles we had succeeded by pleasant conversation in limping up him up considerably and by noon when we stopped for luncheon he displayed his power in our behalf by ordering the villagers to serve us in every way possible by evening when we entered in our Harada he was quite cringing in his civility for now he realised that he was alone and we were among friends so it was worthwhile to be junior and submissive when I informed him that I was not going with the party the next day he claimed to be greatly terrified and begged me most humbly not to subject him to such peril four said he the number of foreigners is mentioned in the governor's letter I cannot produce the full number I shall be held responsible I said be that as it may I must stay here over Sunday and on Monday morning I will follow and report myself to His Excellency if necessary he went away apparently in much uncertainty I knew however that the matter was a mere formality and would bring no risk either to him or to me and so it proved for the governor took no interest at all on a warm summer evening Dr. Harris and I rode up to the shakes house in a village I've never visited before or since as strangers we are welcome to the public room it was soon discovered that a doctor was present and immediately all who were diseased came about us it was a marvel to see men lie down before strangers with perfect confidence allow him to cut about their eyes or put drops in them even alas too often that this crudality cost them dear for many an eye has been ruined by consciousness quacks who trade on the simplicity of the people it is a pleasure however to see them place themselves in the hands of the skillful and honest missionary physician who will help them if possible or tell them truthfully if there is no remedy at sunset a large dish of wheat boiled with some meat was brought out and cakes of barley bread placed about it all who were present were bitten to partake and we did the best we could to satisfy our hunger after a social evening we spread our beds and made ready for sleep if possible as I lay on my bed I could hear those who sat about discussing us they told of the doctor's famous skill and what he had done there before them I was glad to find that I held the humble position of doctor's assistant in their estimation but I could not help wondering then and since about that village so far as I know that is the only missionary visit ever made there is it enough end of chapter four recording by roof in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit silver chimes in Syria glimpses of a missionaries experiences by William S. Nelson chapter five Aleppo in 1893 a plan was developed in the mission to extend our sphere of labor so as to include the city of Aleppo which had been occupied many years before by the mission and then left because of the exigencies of the work and lack of forces it was a four days journey from our nearest outstation and hence not easy to care for but as Tripoli Station was the nearest part of the mission Aleppo was placed under our direction Aleppo is one of the largest cities in Syria and a most important commercial center it is nearly the most northern point for the use of the Arabic language as Turkish becomes the general medium of communication one day's journey farther north being so near the Turkish district there are many Turkish speaking people in Aleppo but the city as a whole is essentially an Arabic speaking place the American board had a Turkish congregation connected with their mission and maintained church and schoolwork in Aleppo for the Turkish speaking strangers resident in the city there was the most cordial welcome from these missionaries to our proposal to organize work for the Arabic speaking population before making my first visit of supervision to Aleppo it was arranged by correspondence that Mr. Sanders of Vintab the missionary in charge of that district should meet me and spend several days in conference as to the arrangement of details of our interlocking work it had been proposed most kindly that we should hold our Arabic services in the premises of the Turkish congregation in many ways that first journey to Aleppo was a unique experience it was a venture into a region of country wholly new to me and involved planning for a new department of service there were two ways to reach Aleppo one wholly by land involving a somewhat dangerous ride from Hamath for four days the other by sea to Alexandria and thence by horseback over a carriage road to Aleppo it was decided to take this latter course though all subsequent visits were made the other way after gaining all the information I could before leaving home I took the steamer to Alexandria where I landed on Monday morning at once I began my search for a riding animal and at length secured a horse guaranteed to be swift and of easy gait whose owner promised to see me in Aleppo by the evening of the third day delayed by those who wish to accompany us it was past noon before we set out on the road it was not long before I discovered that the ease had been left out in the structure of my horse and that any speed he may have had once was well nigh worn out it was clear that I should have to work my passage but my courage held out we pressed up the mountain slope and crossed the ridge in good time having many beautiful views back over the dark blue Mediterranean Mount Cassius lifted its rocky head five thousand feet directly out of the sea to the south showing where the Orontes empties into the sea at Old Salusia after passing the summit we reached the range we dropped down rapidly to the Antioch Plain having the lake of Antioch in full view before us by sunset we had reached the place intended as our first halt thirty seven kilometers from the shore I found no place of entertainment but a bare inn where I could set up my camp bed and sleep to be had for love or money and so I had to depend on the scant supplies I had brought with me in my saddle bags the second day's ride was much longer than the first as we kept to the saddle for twelve hours not withstanding the entreaty of my companions to break the journey earlier I reminded them of the pledge to reach Aleppo on the third day and so kept on until dusk we had left the carriage road for a more direct trail and stopped for the night in a small desolate village there was no decent shelter to be found and so I gladly set up my bed on the threshing floor and slept under the starry sky I inquired for milk bread, cheese anything in the way of food offering ample pay for anything edible after much persuasion the people were induced to burrow in the straw pile on the threshing floor from which they produced a watermelon this was refreshing at least and helped to wash down my bread which was getting rather dry as I did not like to use much water in this swampy region long before dawn we were again on the road and pushed steadily ahead over ridge after ridge until in the middle of the afternoon the city of Aleppo broke on our sight a most refreshing vision in one of the valleys near Aleppo the traveler cannot fail to notice many heaps of small stones evidently placed there to mark certain spots the place is called the valley of the slain and each pile indicates where some victim has fallen the appearance of Aleppo as one approaches it from the west is not unpleasing for it is the first well-built town seen after leaving the coast the houses are built of white limestone and the gardens about the city lend a touch of green most refreshing after the barren country left behind at first sight the designation of Aleppo as Hulk Eshaba Aleppo the Gray seems most appropriate it is a pity to detract from the more poetic explanation of the title old tradition says that Abraham had his encampment at the side of Aleppo for a long time and was recognized throughout the region for his wealth and generosity he had set apart for the use of the poor the milk from a certain gray cow in his herd and hence someone was always on the watch at evening as soon as the gray cow came forward this watchman would shout at the top of his voice Aleppo Eshaba which means he has milked the gray cow hence the city which later grew up at this spot was called Aleppo Eshaba or Aleppo I shall never forget a conversation connected with that journey my comrades were all Muslims and as we jogged on hour after hour during those three days there were opportunities for conversation on many topics one day I asked one of them who was a religious teacher what his doctrine had to say as to the fate of non-Muslim infants who died in infancy I was surprised to find how closely his view parallels our own Christian view of infant salvation he answered at once that they are all saved through the intercession of Muhammad on reaching the city I sought a hotel in order to remove the soil of travel before hunting up our friends in this strange city I was in the midst of making myself presentable when a loud knock at my door was followed immediately by its opening and a rough Turkish police officer made his appearance without a word or suggestion of apology he began a series of questions as to my name, residence, and occupation I let him exhaust his list of questions and then asked as quietly as possible whether he would like to look over my Turkish passport which was required of all in those days he seemed to be so completely taken aback at my evident lack of awe for himself and surprised to meet a person who was prepared in accordance with the law that he could scarcely stammer out in reply Why, have you a passport? Certainly, I replied, here it is with all the information you need he sat down most meekly and copied off the items he needed and took his departure in a really polite manner as this was my first visit to Aleppo everything seemed strange to me except in so far as all oriental cities have a measure of resemblance as I was met also by Mr. Sanders a missionary in charge of established work I found it natural to expect to be dependent on him for everything it came thus as a surprise to have him turn to me in the street to act as interpreter he spoke Turkish but my Arabic was far more necessary and serviceable in general intercourse these experiences impressed it upon me most vividly that Aleppo is thoroughly an Arabic-speaking city and that the work should be in organic connection with the evangelical work in other parts of Syria the Turkish congregation is a natural member of the Salisya Union and should affiliate with the churches of the north but the Arabic evangelical work belongs with the organizations under the care of our mission in Syria for four years this arrangement was continued and we maintained Arabic services with a Syrian preacher and a day school with a Syrian teacher each year two missionary visits were made the missionaries in Tripoli alternating in this duty it was difficult to carry on the work at such long range in 1897 a heavy cut in our appropriations made it necessary to consider every possible method of retrenchment at the same time the English Presbyterians were opening a station in Aleppo for work among the Jews and it seemed best all things considered to ask our English friends to relieve us of this responsibility and assume the care of the work for the Gentiles as well as for the Jews through the medium of Arabic in Aleppo thus our official connection with the work in Aleppo ceased but it has never passed from our minds that someday an Arabic speaking evangelical church in Aleppo should become a member of our Syrian Presbyterian organization now that the railroad has brought Aleppo within six hours ride from Hamath the problem has assumed a new form and we may hope for a renewal of friendly affiliation such a city as Aleppo with about 250,000 people and increasing commercial importance demands much of the missionary organizations the famous Constantinople Baghdad Railway of the Germans passes through Aleppo a branch line connects with the Mediterranean at Alexandreta the French system from Beirut ends in Aleppo giving direct connection with Damascus, Beirut and Tripoli the work of the American board being at present in Turkish reaches only a small part of the population the English mission places its emphasis on work for the Jews and has ample scope in that part of the population there remains the vast bulk of the whole population with Arabic as their language looking naturally to the American mission in Syria for help and guidance the large Muslim population and the numerous nominal Christians deserve the attention of a resident American missionary to organize aggressive and effective work shall we wait longer before pressing on in this direction Aleppo has been chosen by the International Committee of the YMCA as a place where a building should be erected and a permanent secretary established should we fall behind the YMCA whenever the American Presbyterian Church says the word and furnishes the men and the money I am sure the Syrian mission will be ready to send one of its members forward to this new frontier God forbid that another quarter century should pass before this is fulfilled End of Chapter 5 Aleppo Chapter 6 of Silver Chimes in Syria Glimpses of a Missionaries Experiences This is a LibriVox recording while LibriVox recordings are in the public domain For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Silver Chimes in Syria Glimpses of a Missionaries Experiences by William S. Nelson New Stations and Building It has been my privilege to watch from the beginning the growth and development of three prosperous churches in the territory of Tripoli, Presbytery Each one has been marked by peculiarities that render it especially interesting In the early years of my acquaintance with the church in Homs I heard frequently of evangelistic visits from the part of the young men of the church to various villages in the plain east of the city especially to one large village about two miles southeast of us The people of this village are of the Syrian or Jacobite church and have no little familiarity with the Bible and a really religious disposition Our young men from Homs used to go out in small bands of two or more gospels and hymn books in their pockets They met a friendly reception they would go into some house where those who were interested would gather together and a simple service or friendly discussion would be held No one asked them to come in They would seek a place in the public square where people were gathered together and sing a hymn or read a passage to open the way for discussion In such cases there was danger of an exhibition of hostility on the part of those who were unfriendly to the evangelical doctrine It happened more than once that these faithful messengers were driven out of town pursued with stones as well as reviling Such treatment, however, could not suppress the truth and a strong church has grown up from the seed thus sown amid hostile persecution There was a most interesting old priest in this town of Feroz who received the truth into his heart but never had the courage to leave the old church though he was known to be at heart an evangelical believer He sought books on the evangelical doctrine and studied them earnestly and sometimes attended the Protestant service being present at least once on a sacramental occasion He openly taught his people the folly of oricular confession and priestly absolution, saying to them If you wish to come to me and tell me of your sins so that I may help you and pray with you to God for forgiveness I'm at your service but I am a sinner like you and we all have access to one savior I cannot forgive your sins but will gladly pray for you and with you There had been some inquiry about the truth on the part of a few people in the village of El Yazutike In my first visit to the place we pitched a tent on the threshing floor outside the village Much curiosity in our coming was shown in some opportunity given to strengthen the purpose of those who were inclined to the truth At length a teacher was stationed there and a simple school started One or two of the people had joined the church in a neighboring village but the sacrament had never been administered in the town itself Several were ready to make a public profession of their faith in Christ and it seemed that the time had come to begin the full life of the little church by administering the sacrament on the spot Plans were arranged for an evening service in the school room and a good company was gathered in the rudely furnished dark little room There was much disturbance outside when it was known what was in progress One zealous defender of the truth sprang from his seat and rushed out in a most militant manner to disperse the noisy crowd without While the little service was in progress it was not always easy to keep the attention of all on account of the noisy beating of tin cans nearby and some pebbles were thrown in at the windows The service was complete however and this was the beginning of what has proved to be one of the most vigorous churches There is now a simple church building which is always well filled at regular services and new members are ready to come forward at almost every communion service The village of Hakur is memorable not so much because of hostile opposition to the work as because of the apparently feeble instrument used of God for the establishment of the church The blind man of keen and inquiring mind lived in this village and made a precarious living by keeping a little shop He was respected by his neighbors for his integrity of character and trusted by the church authorities for his fidelity to church duties He began to hear something of the new evangelical doctrine and though ready to investigate was strong in his opposition and slow to yield to the new faith When once thoroughly convinced however his very honesty of nature made him accept the truth and declare himself for the Protestant view The bishop sent for him in order to recall him from his error He told the bishop that he was convinced that the teaching and practice of the Greek church were not in harmony with the gospel and that he had decided to follow the teaching of God rather than that of men but that he was ready to hear anything the bishop had to say to convince him that he was mistaken The bishop began to read him a controversial tract recently prepared against the Protestant doctrine Our blind friend interrupted him saying I have heard all that and can give you an outline of the whole argument Does not convince me and so if you have nothing stronger it will do no good The bishop then reviled him comparing his course to that of Judas toward Christ and so cast him off The blind man went home glad to suffer abuse for the truth He gathered around him a group of neighbors who studied the gospel under his guidance and a little church has grown up in that village to which he ministered regularly for a year when no other preacher could be found The little band has been full of zest and has raised the money to build a little chapel in which they worship and in which their children are taught By means which are insufficient in the sight of men in spite of opposition from those who are hostile to the truth God's word continues to bear fruit and the gospel light continues to spread throughout the world The missionaries met in his periodic visitation of the outstations with every conceivable requesting complaint I'm often asked to mend a clock or a watch I've been appealed to to adjust a coffee mill which did not work right Matrimonial and family difficulties must often be arranged I've told the people that there is one complaint I'm always glad to hear and that is to the effect that the place of worship is too small for the regular attendance When I first went to the village of Minara the services were held in a small room about 20 by 25 feet There was room to spare, though not a great deal In a few years it became necessary to plan for enlargement This was accomplished by securing a piece of land adjacent to the building taking out the end wall and extended the room so as to increase its capacity about two thirds The growth of the congregation was so rapid and steady that this enlargement was not completed before the room was again inadequate An appeal was made to a generous friend in St. Louis and $500 were sent for the Minara Chapel A further piece of land was secured and plans made for an entirely new and larger building The outline is rectangular and the flat roof is supported by three rows of arches resting on six pillars This building has been ample for the accommodation of this growing church for many years though it is often well filled and would be far from sufficient were not half the members in America In the city of Homs, the old church had a flat dirt roof supported by two heavy arches which made the room seem dark and contracted The regular congregations taxed the capacity of the building and the roof timbers were showing signs of weakness which would necessitate an early renewal The pastor of the church began to work earnestly for a reconstruction of the roof with an enlargement of the audience room There was a little vacant space at one end of the building which if it were enclosed would increase the capacity about 40% At the same time the heavy arches could be removed and a galvanized iron roof placed over the enlarged building but this would cost a considerable sum and how was that to be raised? The people thought they could not raise more than $200 The same friend in St. Louis, who had provided for the Minyara Chapel sent another $500 and we made this proposition to the church After the church spends $250 the mission will put in $500 but if any more is needed the church must provide it They went to work with a will when the dirt from the old roof was to be carried out they organized a regular church B All the men of the church came together the pastor, the doctor, the teacher, the merchant each one taking one of the rough baskets in which they carried dirt and all together got the whole pile removed at a considerable savings to the building fund Before the work was finished the church had raised and expended quite as much money as they had received from outside This enlarged place of worship has again become too small and its further enlargement is a pressing problem End of New Stations and Building In the close of a tour one spring Mrs. Nelson and I were compelled to reach home on a fixed date because of the expected arrival of guests The weather had been unpropitious and the rains heavy for the season of the year at one point we had been shut in for several days by a snowstorm and all the rivers were unusually high We had a broad plane to cross intersected by three rivers which must be forwarded The rain had been persistent but ceased on the day we were obliged to start for home We reached the first river after about an hour's ride and crossed it successfully the water coming near to the girths of the saddles The second river was reached and crossed without serious difficulty but from there onward the entire plane seemed to be under water and our horses splashed along through water and mud without interruption Towards sundown we neared the last stream and congratulated ourselves that just beyond it we should find the carriage road and a dry place for the night Our road lay through a wretched little Nusserie village just before reaching the river and as we passed the houses we were hailed by many voices assuring us that the river could not be forwarded with safety I did not believe this at first thinking it merely a ruse to compel us to spend the night in their village Such an event would be more or less profitable to the people who would provide our necessities for a consideration even if there was no thought of robbery which was quite possible also We waited for our mule-tears as they were familiar with the stream and would be able to decide whether we could cross or not Their verdict agreed with the statement of the villagers so we were obliged to negotiate for a lodging place After some parley we were allowed to stop in the shake's public room There was not a dry spot about the town but by riding up close to the door we were able to dismount on a large log and then jump across a mud puddle to the door sill and so enter the room assigned to us It would be hard to make anyone who has not seen such houses realize what this room was like It was about 20 feet square with one door and no window The lack of this ladder was partly supplied by the fact that the wall of the house had tumbled in at one corner leaving a ragged hole through which light and air entered freely The floor was of dirt and at two levels one half which was used to accommodate people was reached by a high step and was comparatively dry In the middle of this higher floor was a smoldering wood fire from which the smoke had colored the roof timbers a shiny black The lower half of the floor was on a level with the ground outside or even a little lower and was decidedly muddy This section was for the accommodation of horses and cattle When our party was all inside so that we could take a census we found that the occupants of the room for the night were to be besides myself and my wife the three meal tiers a cook and a Syrian maid accompanying us to the city another part of the room in the other part were two horses four meals, a goat and a calf These were the visible animals and anyone who has traveled under similar conditions will appreciate what is meant when I say there were myriads of other creatures which made themselves known through other senses than sight The sheik was seated by the fire warming himself and gave us a scant welcome We took such a supper and we went inside in the circumstances and prepared to be as comfortable as possible for the night One of the men had been suffering from malaria and so I prepared for him and others in the party a dose of quinine after the fatigue and exposure of the day The sheik immediately asked what it was and desired a dose for himself and the other men present It was the same principle Something is going cheap or gratis and so I must have it whether I need it or not Doses were given out to all who wished for it for a few grains of quinine seldom go amiss in this country Conversation was not very lively about that smoky fire as we were tired and there were not many topics of common interest At length our cook thought he would facilitate matters a little He had lived with foreigners long enough to manage of appealing to the gallantry of men toward the ladies so he said in his most ingratiating tone to the sheik the lady is tired and would like to go to sleep Well, let her do so There is no objection With a scarcely restrained chuckle the cook subsided for a time and then tried again saying this time the offendi gentleman is tired and would be much obliged if you would leave so that he may sleep This was a different proposition and seemed to meet something of a response Shortly one of those present got up and went over into the corner of the room where he spread out his cloak and proceeded to his Muslim devotions When he was through another followed him with equal deliberation and we began to doubt whether we should sleep before morning At length the last one withdrew and we were left to ourselves including the attendance and animals mentioned before We spread our camp bedsteads in the driest part of the room and made ready to sleep It was not long however before the rain began to fall and very soon the roof began to leak over our heads We spread rubber coats over ourselves and raised our umbrellas over our heads and tried to see the humor of the situation At early dawn we were up and packed and we knew start The river had fallen sufficiently in the night to permit our crossing though with some difficulty On the farther bank we found a party of people waiting until the stream should subside sufficiently to allow them to cross with their small donkeys Every summer it is necessary to make a change from the heat of the plane to the more bracing air of the mountains This is not a vacation for the missionaries work goes on a little variation wherever he may be but it involves a change of base and the setting up of a simple household in different surroundings In those earlier years the mountain life was exceedingly simple and the means of transportation most crude The village of Hadith is accessible from Tripoli and in a beautiful situation directly opposite the famous grove of cedars of Lebanon It lies on a ridge in the mountains at an elevation of some 4,500 feet above the sea More than one season have we spent in the house of old Abu Maroon, the village carpenter The house consisted of four large rooms opening on a long arched porch which extended the full length of the house The floors were of dirt and the walls roughly plastered with mud We rented three of these rooms the owners occupying the fourth The partitions between the rooms were made of brushwood plastered on both sides with mud These partitions extended only about 3 fourths of the way to the roof leaving ample space above for ventilation and conversation The uncovered twigs and small branches at the top of these partitions made an attractive artistic feature very pleasing to many of our visitors One of the regular household duties was the renewing of the mud on the floors Every week or two it was necessary to remove everything from the rooms spread a fresh coat of watery mud over the floor and polish it off with a smooth round stone kept for the purpose We could then anticipate reasonable of freedom from fleas for another period The only way to reach a summer resort was on horseback over very rough bridal paths All furniture had to be transported by mules in like manner, folding chairs and tables camping utensils and necessary bedding had to be made into suitable bundles Indispensable supplies had to be provided and mules secured to carry all to the mountains It was a long hard days ride and the party was sure to be pretty tired the first night of arrival But the renewed vigor in the fresh mountain air was the strength for the resumption of life on the hotter plain in the fall and it was well worth all the trouble it cost When it is possible to secure a week or two for real rest there is no more delightful way to accomplish the purpose than to make a camp in the cedar grove This clump of trees lies in a basin in the higher mountains about 6,000 feet above sea level on the east and north and south the mountains rise about this great amphitheater to about 4,000 feet more being the highest mountains anywhere in Syria Large patches of snow lie perpetually on these highest mountains But the slopes are bare having no trees nor shrubs beyond clumps of thorns and scanty grass where the melting snow affords some moisture flocks of goats range over these barren slopes gaining a scanty subsistence In the days of Solomon and Hyrum of Tyre these mountains were probably covered with cedar forests Nowadays only small sections are so covered though on many of the bare heights the people still dig up the old stumps of great cedar trees which they sell for fuel in the cities On the entire mountain range there is left no single grove of really ancient cedars It is the one of which I have spoken known among the people as the cedars of the Lord or simply as the cedars It is impossible to speak with certainty of the age of these great trees but from what we know of their slow growth and the size of many of the trunks it is safe to place their age in the thousands of years There are more than 400 trees in the grove and their reputed sanctity has protected them from destruction Some 40 years ago one of the governors of Mount Lebanon had a wall built in closing the grove and a guardian appointed This affords protection from goats and now a number of small trees are growing up to perpetuate the grove in generations to come If proper steps were taken for reforesting the whole of Lebanon there would be a great improvement in many ways and the agricultural wealth of the country would be greatly increased To establish a camp among these grand old trees is a most delightful way to spend a short vacation The silence of the nights under the spreading branches the fragrance of the foliage the soothing sigh of the breeze among the treetops the beautiful and ever-changing colors on the higher mountain slopes the beautiful outlook to the west over the narrow valley All these influences tend to quiet the tired nerves refresh the exhausted brain and draw the discouraged heart back to quiet and rest in the hand of the master End of Chapter 7 Chapter 8 of Silver Times in Syria, Glimpses of Emissionaries Experiences This is a LibriVox recording All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Recording by Elsie Selwyn Silver Times in Syria Glimpses of Emissionaries Experiences by William S. Nelson Chapter 8 Persecution Late one afternoon as I was sitting in my study the doorbell rang and a young man from Hamath entered showing every token of great excitement and fatigue He had just arrived on the diligence from Homs As soon as he was sufficiently composed he gave me a clear story He told me that the preacher in Hamath had been suddenly arrested by the local authorities and after somewhat rough treatment had been sent under guard to Damascus a journey of five days on horseback as it was before the era of railroads So far as I could learn from my informant the case was one of flagrant persecution with no culpable occasion behind it The first thing to be done was to quiet the excitement of our friend I had brought the word himself rather than trust a written message giving him a chance to rest I made hasty arrangements for a night ride to Beirut The moon would rise about ten o'clock and I arranged for two riding horses to be ready for us before midnight We set out together through the olive orchids under the witchery of the moonlight It would have been a pleasant experience under other circumstances The road follows the general line at times close to the breaking waves and again rising on a rocky bluff at whose base the blue sea keeps up an incessant murmur In the silent night the play of advancing and retreating waves gives a constantly varied effect of light and sound Before noon we reached Beirut and consulted with various missionary friends in the consuls of America, England and Germany who take an interest in matters affecting the Protestants in Turkey It was decided that our Hamath friend would go at once to Damascus while I awaited word from him whether my presence was needed The following day a telegram agreed upon between us brought the brief message Better come The old French diligence and those days made the trip across Mount Lebanon to Damascus in something over 13 hours a rather fatiguing day On the evening of my arrival we had a conference of the immediate circle of friends and the arrested man himself was among us a thoroughly characteristic incident under Turkish administration and so merits a word of explanation During the journey from Hamath to Damascus friendly relations had been established between the prisoner and his escort so that the latter were willing to accommodate their prisoner in any reasonable measure I always agreed upon that they should not announce their arrival nor report to their superiors for a few days until the prisoner secured a little rest and made arrangements for his defense and was informed by our friend himself that he would not arrive in Damascus officially for several days It is needless to go into all the details of this event but the animating cause of the incident has its humerus as well as its enlightening side Some time before our friend had wished to compliment the man who was at the time Governor of Hamath Being of a literary turn he wrote a flattering poem to present on a suitable occasion Indiscreetly he worked into his poem Serious Reflections on another man who is the governor's enemy and who held a similar post at a distance The governor was so pleased that the poem was printed for distribution and a copy reached the hands of the other man who was naturally not pleased with it and the subsequent shifting of appointments this very man became governor of Hamath and found a way to vent his spite at the poet When looked at from a safe perspective most of the so-called persecution in Syria has a predominant touch of humor in it The most convenient and suitable place for the Tripoli missionary families to spend their summers is in the village of Hadath close to the summer seat of the Maronite Patriarch The whole valley is considered sacred and hence strongly guarded against the pollution of any heretical evangelical influences For a number of years the ecclesiastics tried in every way they could devise to make us trouble and to prevent our securing houses in the town and finding any comfort when we did so During one summer they were especially aggressive and seemed determined to be rid of us The priests warned everyone against serving us in any way and against selling us anything to eat For a few days our servant had to go to a neighboring town to buy supplies The woman who had been doing our washing sent words she could not come A special conclave assembled and summoned our landlord threatening all sorts of vengeance out They said that a mob would destroy his house over our heads The poor old man came to me in great fear knowing the unscrupulousness of his opponents and thinking they might get up some false accusation against him and the government and cast him into prisoners subject to needless loss or expense I assured him they would not dare touch us or attack his property and that the whole plan was to frighten us into leaving town if possible I told him that we were to leave on a certain day in October When the hostile party learned this, they drew up a pledge that the Americans were to be expelled from town on the day I had indicated under a forfeit of 50 pounds from the landlord to the local church He was also required to go to the church and apologize publicly to the people, kiss the floor of the church in front of the picture of the virgin and pay a pound into the treasury He was then accepted as in good and regular standing and all waited for the appointed day Unfortunately I did not know of this until it was too late to change your plans On the day appointed we left home with our household goods and as we rode away we heard the church bells ringing out appeal of rejoicing to celebrate the cleansing of the town Times have changed now and the same priest who led in the opposition then will call upon us and crack jokes about the times gone by End of Chapter 8 Recording by Elsie Selwyn Chapter 9 of Silver Chimes in Syria Glimpses of a Missionaries Experiences This is a LibriVox recording All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Recording by Diana Meilinger Silver Chimes in Syria Glimpses of a Missionaries Experiences by William S. Nelson Chapter 9 Immigration Chapter 9 Immigration The period of my life in Syria has witnessed the rapid development of immigration In former days there was very little travel among the people the marriage of a girl to a man in a neighbouring village being a notable and rather rare occurrence It was no unusual thing for a person to spend his whole life without ever going so much as 10 miles from his birthplace I was entertained for supper one night at the home of a wealthy Muslim in Homs The old father of our host was present and I entered into conversation with him as to the experiences of his long life He told me that he had taken four wives as permitted by Muslim law He had 20 sons who had all grown up and married in Homs He said that his grandson numbered about a hundred all of whom he knew by face though he might not be able to fit the right name to each at first sight Knowing him to be quiet wealthy I asked whether he had troubled much My first question was whether he had been to the seashore some 65 miles away from Tripoli He had never seen the sea Have you been to Damascus? This would appeal more to a devout Muslim since the sea is always associated more or less with the unholy foreigners of Christian faith while Damascus is an ancient seat of Muslim power and glory No, I have never seen Damascus was his answer Well, surely you have been to Hamath This is only 30 miles distant No, he said, I never went to Hamath Have you passed your whole life right here in Homs? Once he said, I made a journey out among the Arabs of the desert to buy sheep That was the extent of traveling by an intelligent, well-to-do Muslim Some 30 or 40 years ago a change began among the people and a few enterprising men sowed more favorable opportunities for making a living in foreign lands Many of them were successful and encouraged others to follow them until now the most profitable business of the steamships calling at Syrian ports is the carrying of immigrants back and forth The weekly exit is numbered by the hundreds and large numbers also return from time to time Few of those who returned to Syria remain for any length of time for having once tasted liberty and experienced the opportunities of life in western lands they are no longer content to fall back into the old, slow unprofitable methods of the Orient A notable change has also come over the character of the emigration in another respect At first it was only the more enterprising vigorous young men who went abroad to seek their fortunes Now whole families go together Women and girls emigrate as freely as men At first it was only Christians who sought to improve their condition in Christian lands Now Muslims and Nusraia go as freely as do the Christians At first this emigration was a blind flight from poverty and depressive conditions at home with little understanding of the places to which the immigrants were going They placed themselves literally in the hands of the steamship agents in Marseille Taking passage from Syria to Marseille they were shipped on from there in bunches according to the advantage of the agent into whose hands they fell They might be sent to Argentina while the friends to whom they were going were in Massachusetts They might be sent to Sierra Leone or Cape Town but it was all America in their minds The simple idea of geography in those days seemed to divide the world into two parts Syria and America The common people know far better now for they discuss intelligently the conditions of life and business in the various parts of the world Syrians are to be found in every one of the United States from Maine to Florida and from the Atlantic to the Pacific They are in Alaska, the Sandwich Islands and the Philippines They are in every country of Central and South America in the West Indies and in all parts of Africa they have bought property and made permanent business arrangements In the early years there were many indications of their lack of experience in money matters and general business methods One man in Brazil had accumulated quiet a sum of money and wished to return home He did not understand the simplicity of taking a draft in London from the bank and was averse to parting with good gold for a mere slip of paper He changed all his money into English and his sovereigns and put the whole 900 into a belt which he secured around his body under his clothes He did not dare remove his treasure day or night during the weeks of journey and during the wait and pressure until he reached home He was then taken sick and nearly lost his life from kidney trouble induced by this folly Another young man in Mexico started home by way of New York He knew that English and French gold are current in Syria He assured that American gold was every bit as good so he exchanged his money for American gold coin It came to my attention through a man who came to me with a $20 gold piece and asked what it was worth When I told him its real value he showed such surprise as to arouse my curiosity It appeared that this coin with one like it had been given as be-throttle token for his daughter Subsequently the engagement was broken by the young man and so in accordance with oriental custom the token was forfeited The father, wishing to realize on the coin took it to the local goldsmith who pretended to examine it carefully and then offered $3 for it The father was disappointed at this appraisal and indignant that his daughter should have been rated so low The reaction when he found out the coin to be worth nearly 7 times as much as he had been informed was to too much for him One matter connected incidentally with the emigration has been the call for assistance in handling money for those abroad In the earlier years there were no adequate banking facilities outside of Beirut and so the people began to send back money to their families through the hands of friends who were merchants living in the various seaport towns In several cases unscrupulous men took advantage of the general ignorance in money matters that brought normal profits to themselves and in more than one instance through fraudulent bankruptcy cheated the people out of hundreds of pounds Those who were in any way connected with the American missionaries began sending their money to us and at last we were obliged to conduct quite an extensive banking business In some years drafts for several thousand pounds would come to me in sums ranging from two to three pounds to several hundred at a time These were to be paid out to various relatives or to be held on deposit until the owner's return On one occasion I opened a registered letter from Brazil and found in it a draft on London for ten pounds On reading the letter I found it to be written by a man I did not know in behalf of another stranger and that the money was to be paid to an entire stranger in a village I had never seen It was enough for the sender to know the hands of an American missionary On one occasion a returned immigrant came to my associate with a kerchief full of silver and gold coins He asked the privilege of depositing this with the mission until he needed it As it was evidently a considerable sum he was advised to put it in the bank so as to secure some interest but he preferred to feel sure that his money was safe even though it earned nothing Neither did he see any necessity of waiting until the money should be counted and a regular entry made of it in the books It was enough that the missionary had charge of it This open account remained with us a number of years and sometimes amounted to two thousand dollars A man sent me from Venezuela a draft for a hundred pounds charging me to let no one know of it but to hold the money until he should come After a long interval I learned that his wife was thinking of going to join him since no word had been received I succeeded in dissuading her as I knew he was planning to come home and they might miss each other in mid ocean The return was delayed and before he arrived his funds in my hands amounted to six or seven hundred pounds The volume of emigration is growing every year and is taking away the strength of the land but better banking facilities have relieved us of the financial cares formally carried The director of the Ottoman bank in Tripoli estimates the annual amount of money pulsing through this one port in drafts from Syrians abroad has not less than seven hundred thousand pounds sterling End of Chapter 9 Chapter 10 of Silver Chimes in Syria Limses of a Missionaries Experiences This is a LibriVox recording All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Recording by Henrike Silver Chimes in Syria Limses of a Missionaries Experiences by William S. Nelson Chapter 10 Syrian Enterprises The final aim of mission work is the development of a self-supporting self-propagating Christian community and hence the happiest experience of a missionaries life is connected with the first independent undertakings of the people whom he serves In this connection there are two interesting incidents connected with the life of the evangelical church in Homs There are men still living who remember when the gates in the old city walls were closed every night at sunset and the belated traveler had to make himself as safe and comfortable as he could on the outside until sunrise the next morning When this old custom passed into disuse the city gradually outgrew the old limits and new sections began to appear outside the old walls When I first visited Homs there was already a large settlement on the north side of the old city known as the Hamidia in honour of the reigning sovereign Abdul Hamid In this section of the city were a number of evangelicals and it was most desirable that there should be regular services Much difficulty was found in renting suitable quarters and a change was necessary every year or two At length one of the most prosperous men in the church decided that the permanent chapel must be secured The people in that part of the city were poor and could not raise money to buy property He decided to set aside a certain sum and let it accumulate in his own business until he should have sufficient for the purpose He did so and after some years was able to purchase and remodel a house in the Hamidia That little chapel has been in constant use now for many years for public service on the Sabbath and school during the week and is all the result of the generous thought of this one man Early in the present century a zealous young man became the acting pastor of the Homs church He was constantly seeking for means to strengthen the position of the evangelical church in the community and was soon convinced of the importance of improving the schools so as to make them more effective and more attractive He urged the church forward in support of his plans and raised the standard of working the schools He himself was an indefatigable worker and inspired others with the spirit of service He gained the confidence of the man referred to above and secured his help financially when needed At length it seemed to his pastor that all their efforts would be in vain unless he could establish a boarding school for boys It was not possible for the mission to help in these plans at that time and our earnest friend decided to push ahead alone A big quest was made to the evangelical church in Homs by one of her members who died in Egypt This was a nucleus and others were induced to contribute larger and smaller sums A beginning was made in temporary quarters in the city itself The site was purchased outside for the permanent building The school was popular from the start and considering the cramped and unsuitable quarters in which it was conducted did admirable work Syrians in Egypt and America responded well to the appeal to their patriotism A plain but commodious building was erected on the new site and the school was moved to its new home The school has about four or five acres of land lying higher than any other plot near the city This tract is enclosed by a simple wall Within is the two-story stone school building with accommodation for something over 100 borders and a school room which might accommodate nearly twice that number The kitchen and dining room are in a simpler building adjacent This has been provided a convenient, healthful home for the school with ample playground and suitable surroundings A Christian community which shows the strength and ability to organize and conduct such enterprises as these has certainly a degree of vitality which gives us every confidence in its growth and advance in the future One of the greatest misfortunes as it appears to me in the situation of the subject races in Turkey is their inability to appreciate the value and meaning of the word loyalty I have failed to find an Arabic word in common use which conveys the fullness of what we mean by that word loyalty seems to be because the people have had no occasion to express the idea It is an inestimable loss to a people to live in such conditions for there is an inevitable reaction upon character and a blighting effect on all the relations of life This condition of things has grown rapidly in recent years and most evidently during the reverses of the Balkan War It is an everyday experience in passing along the street to hear people exclaiming against the oppression and injustice of Turkish rule with the expression anything would be better than the present condition nor are such expressions any more frequent from Christians than from Muslims A member of one of the leading Mohammedan families was recently quoted to me as saying we want an end of this business we want the English to come and take charge of us One day as a merchant was taking a bag of small coins from his safe to make a payment he was warned not to accumulate any large amount of these small coins as they would depreciate in value if anything serious should happen to the Turkish government With a look of disgust he said I would gladly lose them all and the silver coins too to be wholly rid of Turkey once for all On another occasion a simple carriage driver expressed his views in rough style by saying Sir, the devil himself would be an improvement on the present state of things Then more seriously he said we know we are not fitted for self-government and what we want most of all is England or if that is impossible then France On a railroad train there was one other passenger in a compartment with me While stopping at the station something occurred to excite my companion to violent abuse of the government When he paused I said to him Sir, how is it that you speak so although you wear the fez he turned to me and spoke most earnestly but with no trace of excitement saying Yes, I am a Turk and I am a Mohammedan and nevertheless I have no words strong enough to express my contempt for the Turkish government All these things are exceedingly sad for it is an immeasurable loss to a people if they cannot laugh and respect those whom they must obey End of chapter 10