 I've got the waterless wash, I don't know if you've ever used anything like that before but a lot of people are a bit dubious about waterless washes because obviously you're so used to washing with your grit guard, your wash mitt, drying towels, if you've washed your car down you're taking it to something like playters and you don't have access to water this is the safest way of cleaning so a lot of people go around with a detailer but what this does is lubricates the surface and makes it easier to clean. The safest way of using it is with two cloths because you don't want to be pushing around the same dirt you want to use one to clean and the other one to buff because it will leave a wax residue behind. So just slowly just wiping straight lines like that, wiping the opposite direction, that way you will never get white lines. We've never polished this with a machine. Perfect. We're not going to use any pro stuff, everything we use is going to be stuff you can buy from Halfords. So I'm going to start with our yellow pad. Now if you feel that compared to a cutting pad that's a lot softer. Normally people would go in with a cutting pad to remove cells and scratches but until you know how hard a softer paint is there's no point going in with a hard pad because you might not need it. So we're going with like a medium grade polishing pad. What I'm going to do is prime the pad. Now this is going to look quite drastic to start with. What I'm doing is getting plenty of products in there. Looks good, doesn't it? I've never seen anyone put it on like that before. It's like he's making a cake. Yeah, exactly. So what I'm going to do, I'm going to feed it into the pad. What this does is make sure you haven't got any extra foam rubbing on the paper. Exactly that and we don't want to be using water or detailer as a lubricant because you're going to dilute the product. So you might as well use the product itself. So you only ever do that once. That's prime now, that's done. So if you feel that now it's just getting softer and slicker. That's going to keep it nice and cool. Every time I want to do a new section all I'm going to do is put five little dots on there. Now you can do a happy face, you can do a sad face, you can do a cross. You can do whatever you want. I just like doing dots. It's just my kind of thing. Yeah, golden rules on machine polishing. Always keep the cable over shoulder. That way it's not going to rub on paint work. And always, I mean you guys have done such a big job of cleaning the car. I don't want to now splatter productive wear. So always start and stop the machine on the panel. That way you're not flinging productive wear. I'm just going to stamp out where I want to work. Now because we want to get rid of the swirls and scratches we want to keep our area concentration quite small. Because if I give myself too much to do, no way of getting enough attention. So we've primed the pad. We also now want to prime the surface. So I'm going to set it to the slowest speed on the machine and spread the product. So how we've primed the pad is exactly the same with priming the surface. Everywhere gets an equal share. So you know I've been teaching you about the up and down, left and right. Exactly the same when machine polishing. Up and down, left and right. Essentially creating a hashtag. So you just want to do two very slow passes about an inch per second. Now you see people with like rotary polishes. They're going as fast as they can because it generates so much heat. Because a rotary polisher spins on a central axis like that. But a DA oscillates. So it's never really in one place at one time. But to start with I'm going to go slap bang in the middle of that speed. So I'm going to go in between four, eight and five, eight. As fast as you want to go. As far as I do that, it's not giving it time to work. We've rung into you easy when I spoke to you. I'm going to pop, I need to get me bootleg. Oh yeah. But you only ever want to swap bits and bobs doing on it. So it's like patchwork. Cool. So we're going to get a fresh towel. Get it nice and folded. And again, take the head of the compound off with one side and the other side. So if you now stand, go from that side to that side. So we're reducing those cobwebs? Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. A lot of them there, don't they? If you stand here, Jen, and use that circular light there and go from one half of the bonnet to the other. See them in there? Yeah, because it's such a gentle compound. If after the first one it's good but not amazing, you just go again. I'm using the Ultimate Wax. It's a fully synthetic wax. If you have a solid colour, like a blue light or shirt or a yellow or red, like the orange on the fault list. For a solid colour, I always use Canoeba Wax because it's naturally toffee coloured. So it gives a colour like the yellow or the red or the blue a real warm glow. But for a deep colour like yours, because synthetics are clear when they haze, what it's going to do is magnify the fleck inside it. Just in half a turn, which is enough to do the whole bonnet. So you know how each step we've been priming? So we've primed the pad, we've primed the surface. We're going to do it again with a wax. So three little strikes like that. And then just going to do tight circles over them stripes. Because what it's going to do is as I'm going along, it's going to top up that pad so everywhere it gets an equal share of wax. And no pressure on that, no. Just nice and flat. So I'm going to use the Ultimate Detailer. So all you want to do is lightly over the paintwork real light mist like that. Like I say, the less product you use, the better it's going to work for you. As you can see, what it does is it settles on any wax that hasn't been taken off. That's why I mist it. So then it highlights it so you can get that proper clinical finish. And again, like we've been doing in every process, one way, clip the towel, other way. Did you just light pressure? That's it. Just let the towel do it.