 All right, good afternoon everybody. Good job by Andre, glad to have him on board. My name's Ed Sucor, I'm an extension plant pathologist with Auburn University. I've been here for 30 years now, so time flies when you're having fun. Today we're gonna talk about Concurbid Disease Management. Andre referred to this a bit. I should just mention what Concurbids are because it does incorporate a number of different plants but it's plants in the Gourd family and this would include watermelons and cantaloupe, pumpkins, summer squash and winter squash, as well as cucumber. So some of the diseases I'll talk about go to different members of this family, more than others you might say. And I'll try and mention that as we move along. I'm gonna focus on some foliar diseases and thrachnos and gummy stem blight, two fungal problems, downy mildew and powdery mildew which look like kissing cousins but they're actually uniquely different. Also foliar problems. We'll talk about an insect transmitted bacterial disease, also a number of plant virus interesting organisms, the four I list there are all aphid transmitted. We'll also talk about a white flight transmitted virus briefly and then I'll finish up with root not nematodes, one of the top five diseases in the world. Unfortunately, we have them all over the state. One thing when you go out and look at your garden and you're looking at some of these crops is that you'll see a lot of leaf spots. So obviously leaf spots catches everyone's eye. We have problems like an thrachnos, gummy stem blight in the upper right-hand corner, target spot, alternate area leaf spot. Many times you might see multiple pathogens or multiple lesions on the same leaf. And they pretty much all look the same even to me after many years. So you're dealing with a lot of problems. Most of these diseases show up under warm wet conditions which we can't have in Alabama, depending on the year, of course, oftentimes more often in the fall or in the spring and during the hot summer. And thrachnos though is one that we see quite a bit of another fungal disease favored by warm wet conditions. And I see this most often on cantaloupe, cucumber and watermelon. And thrachnos will cause a tan to brown spots on the leaf surface. You also may see shallow elongated tan spots on the stems and then sunken areas on the fruit as well. And sometimes you'll see pink or orange discoloration in these sunken areas which are actually spores of the pathogen. Can look different on different crops. You can see it on watermelon in the upper left. Again, somewhat small lesions in general. I believe that's on squash and cucumber in the center and the right. Bottom left, you can see the fruit cankers or fruit, the sunken areas on watermelon. That was up at Coleman many years ago but you can see that kind of pinkish orange discoloration. Those are actually fungal spores of the anthrax. It's fungi. Far right was also cantaloupe at the same location. Coleman, again, it gives off that discoloration which is typical for this pathogen. Fortunately, we do have resistant varieties to this disease for watermelon and in some cases, cantaloupe. And it'd be the best control. Andre referred to this as far as trying to avoid diseases in that look for resistant varieties for some of your major pros whenever they are available. With this pathogen, like most of your fungal pathogens with any crop, you wanna try to avoid overhead irrigation or limit it because this favors development of these pathogens. You wanna follow a fungicide spray program that conditions favor disease development. I know we have a variety of growers from home gardeners and master gardeners to commercial growers on the call today. Chlorothalonil is one product that's been around for about 50 years now. Home gardeners could probably find it as dacanil at their local Lowe's or co-op. Bravo was a commercially available product but it goes by a number of different names. Chlorothalonil is the active ingredient. These are protected fungicides that have to be sprayed on the plant before the disease shows up to give you maximum protection. Mankezeb is also out there. Another protectant fungicide goes by a number of different names. Occasionally you could find this in a garden store. Diethane and manzate are two products that are often listed on commercial packages. So at your co-op, but give you a decent control of anthrax but always look for resistant varieties if you have this problem, if it's recurring and you wanna try to control it the best. Most effective, I should say. Gummy stem blades of disease that you grow or see this, they often start to cry. It's another fungal pathogen. Oftentimes you might see it on the same foliage width anthraxnose. What you will see in the field is it appears your watermelons or cantaloupe are melting out from the middle. That's how I always describe it. Oftentimes it could be across a whole field or in sections of the field. It is spraying fairly rapidly. And what you will see is leaf spots that are usually tan to brown to black and the lobes are along the edge of the leaves. They're kind of, they rip easily but that's typical for a gummy stem. They kind of target like in appearance. And then it gets its name from the stem lesions. These stomach, they call it gummy stem blade. These lesions are one to six inches long typically. They start at the nodes on the vines, spread longitudinally and they can crack under moist conditions. You might get, and you might see a gummy ooze exuding from that lesion. And these cankers can completely girdle those vines and that's why you start seeing the dieback like you see in the upper left-hand corner as these vines die back to the site of the canker. So it can be a devastating disease once it gets going and it's uncontrolled. Couple of shots in the left, upper one you can see that little bit different coloration to these target like lesions in the lobes. Three slides in the center would be the cankers that you might see, different variations. The top picture shows this gummy ooze coming from the stem. I've only seen them once or twice over the years but it is pretty cool looking. That's a pathologist of course. Dryer conditions, you might see a tan lesion. A bottom center, I already showed you that reddish brown lesion. And the upper right is a dried up lesion during a drought period, a drought in Watumka. It's also a gummy stem, kind of a grayish looking. And then pathogen here, it's a complex really, you also can get a disease called black rot. And it kind of looks like blossom ennirot on watermelons and we have a black rot on an edge of the fruit also on a butternut squash during the bottom right. So with gummy stem, we're looking for these large round target-shaped spots in the lobes around the edges of the leaves. Cankers on the main stem, air in the nose. And it's possible to reserve gummy stem with anthracnose and some of these other foliar diseases because they all favor wet conditions. Most common on melons, so watermelon, cantaloupe, I would say are the most significant problems. Wet conditions favor disease development. So wet weather like we had last spring and how we had it all during 2020 or overhead irrigation, overdoing it can increase gummy stem blight, the aggressiveness of the pathogen. And these pathogens usually start on the older leaves in the center of the plant and then spread outwards. So if you're seeing damage at the tips of leaves that's probably abiotic in nature, maybe a chemical burn or something like that. So with gummy stem, I don't believe we have any resistant varieties right now. You can't follow a fungicide spray program with conditions favor the disease. Products like Apruvia top and Luna experience are considered good and our Southeast guide, those would be ones that commercial growers may be able to afford and find in the state. Chlorothalonil is considered fair and this is a product that has the active ingredient. It goes by a number of different trade names. Dacanil is a common one that you might find in your local stores. Also commercially available, but it's a protective fungicide that needs to be on the plant when weather conditions favor its development. That's when you start spraying. You don't spray when the disease are already showing up on the plants because you get behind it pretty quick. This disease will take you out quickly. Powdery mildew, powdery mildew is a disease I think most people have seen, they realize what it is, I'm not sure, but it hits a number of different crops and it hit us, all the curbs, we're all susceptible, they're all susceptible. More commonly on cucumbers, on squash, both yellow and winter squash and on pumpkins. Pathogen, the fungal pathogen overwinter is on a weed. So it oftentimes just around your garden or field and then it moves into the garden on wind current. So it can move fairly long distances from a neighbor's yard or a neighbor's field. It likes high humidity and abundant plant growth. So if you have a lot of the over fertilized with nitrogen, you have an abundant growth that will favor development powdery mildew. And I mentioned it, no free water is necessary for this disease, this pathogen. Most of your fungi, 99% of them like, like it warm and wet or cool and wet, but powdery mildew likes it hot and dry. So even during a drought year, most diseases are taking it easy, powdery mildew is going crazy. And what you'll see typically on the old upper leaves will be a yellow spot. And then the mildew, this talcum powder-like growth shows up on the lower leaf surface and then eventually takes over the forge. You can see some of the colonies of powdery mildew on the upper three slides. If you were to look at these under a microscope, you would see chains of canadial spores. Emanating from that lesion is the fungus just invades the epidermal cells here. But again, it's talcum powder-like in appearance. It doesn't, powdery mildew doesn't go to the fruit directly, but it will go to the handle. So it's a problem for pumpkin growers because it will hit that handle, weaken it. And of course, when you go to pick them or when a child, a school bus goes out to a UPIG operation and grabs that handle, it falls off and that pumpkin loses value quickly, but not to the fruit directly. Mildew starts in the center of the plant, spreads out. So you lose that photosynthetic area quickly. Typically with mildew, you don't lose the leaves. They stay on as a brown source of inoculum. So you have these brown erect dead leaves in the center of your plant, but it exposes the play of less photosynthetic area, exposes the fruit to sunscald. And of course, as the bottom right, you can see where the plants in this die early, the leaves are gone, you get smaller fruit than you typically want, both for home garden or for marketing. So powdery mildew. Best control would go with a, would be a powdery mildew tolerant or resistant variety. I worked with these when I was about 20 years ago now, but these varieties do work quite well. Occasionally, you do have to supplement them with a fungicide just to, especially when conditions really favor mildew. And of course you might have other diseases showing up. You want a balanced fertility program, you don't want to overdo the nitrogen. Good weed control, especially around the field and even in the field to reduce humidity. You want good airflow. And then fungicide sprays are available. What we're seeing though, throughout the Southeast with some of these diseases, like powdery mildew and downy mildew and even gummy stem, you're seeing some of these pathogens becoming resistant to some of our fungicides because of overuse and abuse of these materials. Same with insecticides, I guess. So you want to rotate fungicides whenever possible because of these resistant strains of powdery mildew to these products. This is out of our spray guide. Good efficacy for Luna experience in Gatton. And our spray guide changes as far as efficacy, as far as effectiveness yearly as new species or should I say species, but new biotypes evolve that become resistant to some of these materials. I do have chlorothelanil. It's fair in efficacy for this disease, but that would be one for a home gardener that should be able to get their hands on. Some of these other products, I have a random man on there that I was just told before I started is not labeled for a few curcurbants or for some of the curcurbants. But these other products can be had at co-ops or purchasing long distance. I suspect some of these products are very expensive this year, just with some of the problems we're having with COVID and other problems. Okay, I was talking about powdery mildew, which is on the right with those white colonies. Now I'm going to talk about downy mildew, which is on the left, and which is just this bright yellow angular lesion. And they should be similar, but downy is a, we call these, what we used to call this a water mold pathogen, or it is a water mold pathogen. It likes it cool and wet. Powdery likes it hot and dry. Now with downy, probably I've been following this disease in the state for 15 years. We have monitoring plots throughout Alabama because it can be devastating once it gets going. Classic symptoms here on cucumber are these bright yellow angular lesions. As these lesions are somewhat, can't cross these veins in the leaves. So it's pretty apparent. And these start on the older leaves, the center of the plant, we have flipped this leaf over on the corresponding lower leaf surface where that lesion is, you would see kind of a velvety, fluffy growth. And those are the fungal spores of downy mildew. So at 40 magnification, you would look on a dissecting scope, you'd see these black spore balls, basically, which are the spores of the pathogen. At 100X in the bottom right, you'd see these Christmas tree-like structures with the spores present. So it can be a very aggressive pathogen with the spore production on the lower leaf surface. So when you do spray, trying to get the upper leaf surface and the lower leaf surface can be very important. So downy mildew, cucumbers, pumpkin, winter gourds, especially butternut are all very susceptible. We do see it on watermelon, on cantaloupe, they're moderately susceptible. Things like another one I had here. It can't spread long. This is an air currents. It's interesting about downy mildew in that it's right now, it's developing down in South Florida, usually down in the winter markets in that area. And then it moves from South Florida and the Caribbean up through Florida and then spreads eventually throughout the United States. So our downy mildew right now is vacationing on the beach is probably in Tampa or somewhere, but it'll be on the move soon. The disease often moves up the East Coast and then up into the Midwest to damage pumpkin crops, say, in Indiana and Illinois. Sometimes it goes West into Alabama and that's where our source is more or less. And depending on weather conditions, it will determine how significant downy mildew is in Alabama. Refers moderate temperatures and wet leaves for disease development. So it doesn't like the 90 degree temperatures we see in late June, July and August, but we do see some outbreaks. Last year we saw some outbreaks in June because we had cooler, wetter temperatures. And then in the fall is when it really gets going on your winter gourds and pumpkins. Get the foliation, poor fruit growth, sunscall when the foliage is gone. This was a trial I had on pumpkins over at the shorter Alabama in their callacy. This was two years ago and you can see those lesions on the upper leaf surface here. You'd see spores in the lower leaf surface. And this pathogen really looks different on each cacure, but it doesn't look the same. And sometimes I confuse one disease with another because of the difference in hosts. This is a similar field last year on butternut squash, which is very susceptible to it all. You see the lesions are somewhat a little bit darker in this case, but it starts in the center and then spreads out. If you don't apply a fungicide early, we'll do quite a bit of defoliation and put back on your yields. So a lot of control methods here, but one thing you might want to try to avoid it. Plant cucurbits as early as possible. So cucumbers in the spring, pumpkins maybe a little bit early if you can. Downy mildew is more of a problem in the fall because oftentimes we have cooler temperatures. We have susceptible crops like winter gourds and pumpkins being planted at that time. So commercial growers, you got to be more reliant possibly on a fungicide spray pool. You can use downy mildew resistant varieties when they're available. I think more and more of these are coming on the market. Things like yellow squash, zucchini and acorn squashing that tolerate downy mildew better than say pumpkins and cucumbers. And they will produce marketable fruit typically. Fungicide spray program is important when weather conditions favor disease development. Once again, you want to get ahead of the pathogen before it really gets going. If half the crop or half the plants already infected with the disease, then you think you're going to spray a fungicide to control it, that's, you're going to be a loser every time. So a rhodmon and aluminum are fair to good. I mentioned chlorothelanone and mankazeb for home gardeners, but these are considered poor for control. So think more as a home gardener, you might want to think about planting your curb as early in the season, then late. Also, if you double crop, if you have cucumbers early and then you want to come back with pumpkins later in the same field or garden. And if you have downy mildew in the early crop, it's going to be a source of inoculant for the later crop. Always think about that in the home garden and especially in a commercial field, you have these side by side. Want to mention the bacterial crop. We're talking about bacteria, then viruses and then those three other types of biotic diseases. Bacterial will was the first disease that I saw in Alabama that slide in the upper left is from Foley, Alabama. And it's a cantaloupe grown on raised black plastic mulch. And you can see those vines dying back there. And that's typically the early symptoms of bacterial wills. Eventually the bacterium gets inside the plant, move through the crown, then you start seeing the whole plant shutting down. And this can be confused with things like some of your insect dam, some of your borers as well. So you have to differentiate between the two. In the field, sometimes they do what they call a bacterial ooze test, which impresses people at times, other pathologists at least, but if the vine is still turgid near the crown, you could take two stems, slice them with a sharp knife and then slowly push them together, mush them up and then slowly pull them apart. You'll see these bacterial ooze strands between those stems, which is a positive test to identify the disease in the field. Interesting about the disease cycle, I always find interesting in that it's spread by cucumber beetles. I know we have spotted cucumber beetles and striped, and I'm sure you all of you have seen these, kind of a little bit like ladybugs, but more elongated. They vector or carry the bacterium in their gut. So the beetles feed on the leaf surfaces by rasping the upper leaves, the epidermal leaves out or so, and they open up a wound in that plant. And then they exude the bacterium outside their back end, which if it comes in contact with that wound, the bacteria enter the plant, bacteria multiply rapidly, and then can move from the wound into the veins, down into the vines, and then eventually down to the crown when it shuts down the plant, like you see in the upper left-hand corner. So I'm controlling bacterial wilt. You can't do with a copper bacterium side. You can't do it. There are resistive varieties that I'm aware of. You have to try and control the vectors, the carriers, the beetles, which is very difficult. There are some insecticides available. I'm not gonna list those here because I'm not an epidemiologist, but against striped cucumber beetles, spotted cucumber beetles are the main vectors or carriers of this pathogen. And trying to control these guys, if you have a significant problem with bacterial, you would need to target them versus the bacteria itself. Well, I'm talking because of COVID, we've been talking about viruses a lot in the last few years, unfortunately. I've worked with plant viruses for 30, 35 years. I find them fascinating just to do the disruption of the plant and the symptoms you see in the field are just staggering. So plant viruses, alka-curvis are susceptible. They typically overwinter in weeds around the field or in areas, so that's where they overwinter. This is where your inoculum sources, 90% of all your plant viruses are transmitted by insects. And these are often aphids or whiteflies or leafhoppers would be another example. We have four main aphid transmitting mosaic viruses, cucumber mosaic, papaya ringspot, watermelon mosaic and zucchini yellow mosaic virus. Plus probably a couple others, but these are the main four that I found in some of our surveys. They get their name from the first host, they were found that, and then the main symptom they cause. So obviously we don't grow a lot of papaya in Alabama, but papaya ringspot does exist as a common problem throughout the season. And then in recent years, we've been finding whitefly that spread yellows viruses. And we've picked up two new ones in Alabama. Andre's worked with this over in Georgia before he came over to the good side here in Alabama. So that's becoming more of a problem. And we global warming as it heats up and the winters get milder, these yellows viruses might become more of a problem as whitefly populations overwinter farther north in Alabama, we think. So symptoms of viruses, you get mottled leaves, mosaic leaf patterns. And that looks like you see in the bottom right where you have a dark green, this color or dark green color intermingled with light green and yellow model or mosaic pattern. Distorted leaves, stunted plants, home garden, commercial field, you might see a few plants that are stunted right next to plants that look fine. And that's because aphids don't go to every plant. So you get some uniform, non-uniform distribution in the field. Fruit can be stunted in size, mottled and deformed. And if the virus gets inside these plants early, you can get reduced yields. The earlier the virus gets inside the plant, the more severe the symptoms may be and the more reduction in yield that you might incur. These are just some of the insect vectors, aphids, all these fellas vector the pathogen or spread the pathogen with the use of their mouth parts. And you can see kind of a diagram of aphid in the upper left-hand corner. They feed with a stylet-like mouth part. Aphids say they fly over to weed's next year field and start probing that leaf surface. They probe on a weed that has some of these viruses present. When they pull that mouth part out, the virus particles are then attached to that stylet. They then fly into your garden or field, start feeding on your watermelons or cantaloupe, and then they inject that virus in. And it takes only one minute, one minute time for that aphid to pick up the virus and then to spread it. So trying to control viruses by spreading insecticides is nearly impossible, just not cost-effective. Leaf hoppers bottom right do the same thing. And then I mentioned white flies in the bottom left, vectors of these yellow viruses that Andra and I are becoming more and more concerned with in Alabama. Just some classic symptoms here. This is an aphid-transmitted mosaic virus. Sometimes I found up to four or five different viruses in some of these plants. So they're very common in the state we see them every year, but you see that drastic distortion of the foliage. And with these mosaic viruses, you typically see these symptoms newest growth. And the older leaves look fine. Sometimes you can't confuse this with herbicide injury, such as 240 when you get a herbicide drift. But oftentimes you can see the pattern from the drift pattern that causes this type of distortion. And then this is just yellows viruses. This is on some squash down in Bruton last fall. Bright yellow mosaic type pattern. With this, these yellows viruses, and there's a number of them, but I'm not gonna go through the names, but these will show up on the older, more mature leaves first and the young leaves look fine. So that's the difference between yellows and the mosaic type viruses. And yellows, again, are vectored by or carried by white flies. But right now we've only found these right along the Florida border in Southeast and Southwest Alabama. As far as virus control, there are resistant varieties. We tested some of the squash varieties, yellow squash and zucchini that had resistance to fall forward the mosaic viruses, and they did quite well. You wanna try to avoid planting next to infected fields, especially if you're double cropping in your home garden or if you, for a commercial grove, where you have different settings going out to try and meet the market, try to avoid planting next to previously infected fields or infected, or fields in general, other squawks, other cucurbits. We control before planting around the garden or fields is effective. We think about 85% of the viruses that attack a crop come from weeds that are within 30 feet of that border or of that planting. Insect control is difficult because they're such efficient vectors. I've worked with reflective mulches. You see that in the upper right-hand corner. If you ever go up to places like Sand Mountain in Blunt County or in Neuronion, you'll see many of the tomato growers grow on raised, silver reflective mulch, because they had to due to eighth the transmitted virus problems they had back in the 90s. What happens in this case is when you plant your transplants in this reflective mulch, insects, the reflective mulch reflects UV light which disturbs the insects and they will avoid landing on those plants. They get disrupted, their flights. So eventually the plants overgrow that reflective mulch. They will become infected by that time they're matured. You have some mature plant resistance and your reduction yield is limited. Very expensive though, as far as commercial growers are concerned versus a black or a white. I think Andre's worked with row covers in the past. We've tried some of this in Alabama over the years where these are often used for frost protection for strawberries and some of the winter vegetables in Florida. We were trying it here on pumpkins up in Crossville, Alabama many years ago but you put these on, take them off when the blossoms start to come out and it will reduce early season infection by some of these insect-borne viruses. Okay, I'm gonna finish up with plant parasitic nematodes. Nematodes are the most numerous animal in the face of the earth. More numerous than insects, just not as diverse. They come in all different types and sizes. The ones I deal with plant parasitic nematodes are only about a millimeter long. Most survive in the soil and feed on the roots of plants. You can't see these with a naked eye. As I said, less than a millimeter long typically they feed on the roots of plants and pairing the ability of the roots to absorb water and nutrients and that's how you get some of the symptoms. Depending on the species, you might have one generation that takes 30 days or up to a year and most numerous nematode or more damaging nematode, rutinine nematode, we can see five generations per year with each female producing two, on average 208 in a generation. So sometimes these nematodes get in your garden and they can't explode. They feed with a stylet like you see on the left which is like a hypodermic needle and the nematodes swim along the root system eventually setting up a feeding site they puncture the root with that stylet. They secrete enzymes to break down the cell contents and they reverse the flow to get the nutrition but which also damages the plant's ability to pick up moisture and nutrients. In a pine of soil around the root system you could find hundreds to thousands of nematodes of various species in a heavily infected field. Same picture of lance nematode on the left they all come with cool names like lance and pin nematodes and needle nematodes. On the right is a dagger nematode. If you look closely you can see it's a stylet deeply penetrated just behind a cap of a bean root. Some are ectoparasites they feed on the outside others actually are endoparasites meaning they get inside the root system and I'll show you an example of that in a second. So symptoms that we often call this the unseen enemy because you don't see nematode but you see the symptoms and the symptoms are often typical of other problems. So stunting, leaf yellowing like nitrogen deficiency, loss of plant vigor and overall health. Reduce yields especially over time as the population increases your yields will drop. Wilting of plants even when the soil is wet is a dead giveaway. Larger fields you may see non-uniform distribution of symptomatic plants and that's just the way the nematodes are entered the field and how they got moved around. And then symptoms are more pronounced when plants are under stress from other factors. For example, a couple of weeks ago I was in a commercial carrot field down near Dothan heavy root on nematode pressure and that soil was like a beach sand in that area. So the nematodes are very happy. So some gourds I had out at the Talsy two years ago looked at the plants that are yellowing up. I knew something was going on here. Wilting, I felt the moisture in that bed it was saturated with moisture the plants are still wilting. I dug that plant up and on the right you could see the galled root system caused by root not nematode. Very few fibrous roots to pick up the moisture and nutrients those plants need. So you get the wilting and the dieback. These are not because you have a nematodes the size of your thumb in those roots but you have hundreds of nematodes that have invaded that root system end up parasitically. I'll show you a slide of that. But they secret enzymes that cause the root cells an increase in size in numbers so you get these ugly galled root systems which are pretty easy to detect once you dig up those plants. Here's a adult female living in an endoparasite. She's gone from that vermer form, snake-like form to bulbous type form. She can produce up to 600 eggs in a generation. Shady slide on the right but you can see the yellowing in our watermelon field down in the headland area many, many years ago. But of course it's only in a certain section probably where it entered the field. These are some soybeans which obviously are not the curbus but this is a great slide showing you the non-uniform distribution of root knot in this field where you see those yellow patches you might even see some dead plants. That's where the heaviest population of root knot is but you can see it's scattered throughout the field. So where the green plants are you'll still probably find nematodes but much at reduced populations. And then the galled roots on the bottom right is a dead giveaway for root knot. And that's the nematode you're probably most concerned with. So as far as management I want you to think about site selection and nematode inspection. So if you're choosing your garden or your production field you want to go to that field before you buy it or rent it or plant in it and then take a soil sample. First one for fertility but also a second sample for nematodes. Go through the field take a soil sample, send it to the lab and let's see what nematodes you might have there that might be damaging to the crops you plan on growing. And if you have a heavy root knot populations you might want to avoid it. You could reduce plant stress through proper fertility and irrigation and organic amendments. A lot of this is high in antagonists with fungi and bacteria and other nematodes that might attack the parasitic types. Sanitation at the end of the season if you do have root knot you can't dig up those plants leave them on the soil surface late in the summer and early fall let the sun beat down on those and it'll kill some of the populations within the root. Crop rotation. Andre outlined this quite well. So you want to rotate between crops because nematodes don't typically go to everything. Suppressive crops are available. We have a handout on this crops like crotal area, partridge bee, sesame seed. Some types of marigolds will give off chemicals that will kill nematodes or slow them down. And that might be an option if you have a high root knot population say and limited place to plant. Fubingants are available for commercial growers things like T-loan, C35, chloropicrin and others. These are can only be used by certified pesticide people with sort of obviously certification can't be used by home gardeners any longer but home gardeners can try solar solarization. You could Google that. We have a couple of handouts on that from ASIS and it's uses the sun's energy to eat the soil up to try and knock down these populations during the summertime. So with that, I think I will, well, there's the Southeast US vegetable crop handbook that Andre mentioned. Just Google 2022 Southeast US crop handbook and you will be able to get a download a PDF copy targeting more towards commercial growers but also very useful when you're looking at varieties for throughout the Southeast very, this is an excellent book. I would recommend you look at that. So that I'll stop. That's me in the black shirt. I found that at one of my colleagues offices to the right. But you can follow me at Alabama Ed, Ed Capital on Twitter, Alabama Ed. You could also contact me through David if you have questions or comments. With that, I'll stop.