 What's up guys welcome to today's video today we are gonna focus back to basic so we're gonna be cutting an a-line Bob This is not a highly requested Bob. I get that but today I felt like just getting back to basics and really working on Structure so whether you're in beauty score in the break room It doesn't matter this haircut is packed with tips and tricks for you guys to use right away in the salon Hope you enjoy the video. Let's get started Welcome to the video guys today what we're gonna focus on is something that is a little bit more of an exercise for me It's gonna be a full haircut. It's gonna be a graduation Triangular shape so it's gonna go forward kind of like an a-line Bob The reason I'm gonna do this. It's a symmetrical cut Very foundational. This is not a highly requested haircut in the salon currently but the reason I like doing it is because it really focuses on balance and working on shape and Really your finger angle everything. So I'm doing this more as an exercise I really just wanted to cut a Bob today. So we're gonna go through and cut it So sectioning is simple all the way down the center all the way down center back And then I sectioned from the occipital bone over to behind the ear And then I start right in the nape and I take diagonal forward partings Really following the jawline and that's the goal here Now as an exercise and or if you're a student in hair school or you're somebody that just is trying to better their hair cutting skills It's really important to focus on three different things. The first one is your elevation second one is your Angle finger angle and then the third one is your partings So focus on how are you parting the hair and is your finger angle parallel to that parting because that's what I'm going For in this cut. I want the the flow of the weight to kind of move with the jawline And that's gonna make the end result of this cut Really nice. So also, I want you to notice that I don't worry so much about the hairline I've talked about this in multiple videos, but People get so worried that their haircut right away isn't looking like that really hard strong line that they see on the internet or in old Haircutting books and all that you don't have to worry about the the hairline right away So think about the angle that you're trying to achieve and then make sure that your finger angle reflects that So continuing through the the right side now. This is the thing that changes So my fingers were pointing up in the beginning of the left side now my fingers are pointing down This is how I like to cut a graduation. This is how I learned it It's more comfortable for me. Some people like to keep their fingers pointing up the whole time Or we'll scoop the hair more. I like pushing the new hair into the guideline So I've seen it successful both ways But for me it works the best to really just focus in and comb the hair consistently every time my finger angle It's easy to keep But the combing of the hair is what makes hair cutting so difficult for me What really separates a good hair cutter and a great hair cutter is how well they comb and section So because the better you comb the better you section the hair the cleaner your work The more consistent your work is going to be so now you notice that I've moved about two inches up on the head I'm not going too extreme I like to go whatever is about half my finger But I'm also looking at the head shape so you notice that I put the comb on the head And I work and I figure out how that head shape is moving because that's really going to play a big role or key role in How my graduation looks and feels so notice that 90 degrees is now shifting up if you look at 90 degrees out from the head All the way around the head. You're gonna notice that the nape It's it's more down and then obviously as you work up past the occipital bone 90 degrees is more out And then when you get to the top of the head obviously 90 degrees is pretty much straight up. So Understand that 90 degrees is going to give you a seamless layer anything from that and above you won't see a wait line, right? So anything below 90 degrees you will get a wait line. So as I'm going through and cutting this graduation I obviously want a wait line, but I don't want that wait line to be too heavy So that's what's really going to separate your haircuts from everybody else's when you learn in beauty school 45 degrees is a Bob That's not necessarily the truth. I mean it is a Bob It's a graduation But it's not necessarily exactly the angle that you want to take because somebody that has a high density of hair a lot of hair They're gonna have a super thick Bob if you cut it at 45 degrees That maybe that where the weight's not sitting the most flattering on their head shape and then somebody was really fine hair It might not it might not kind of build up the shape that you're looking for so You really got to understand the density you got to understand the head shape and then how your finger is angled So again, I switch now. I'm pointing down, but you could see that build up of weight So where I want you to really focus in right now is How my finger angle is kind of curving into the jawline and then you see exactly where that weight starts to sit So where the tip of my finger is where that build up of graduation starts? And then it gets heavier and heavier as it gets to the inside of my finger Because of the head shape, right? So as the head shape is curving up my angle is getting more extreme It's getting lower. It's a lower elevation. So you end up with a heavier shape So now I move up the head shape again The reason I take this section by section is I really want to hone in on where that 90 degree point is So obviously as I move up the head shape the 90 degree point shifts So I look at where the top part of that section is and where the tip of my finger is how I'm holding that section What degree is that at? It doesn't I'm not like trying to be that specific But the ones that I understand are 90 degrees 45 degrees and zero degrees because those are easy to find Based on the head shape. So find your 90 degree point Understand that everything above that is going to be layering and everything below that is going to be graduation It's just Really goes into how much graduation do you want how much layering do you want now the one thing? I haven't really talked about in this cut yet is that I'm bringing everything straight back So it's going back to the previous and then that's pushing the weight forward. So I'm kind of like the way I look at a Traveling guide is that you're you're grabbing on to the weight and you're traveling across the head And then you're going to drop it off at some point, right? It's because no matter what wherever you cut hair at some point It's going to drop off weight so a traveling guide keeps the weight even But it's almost like you're carrying it with you and then you pass it off So when we go to really throw it to the front and then we'll start over directing everything back at a stationary point Which will push that weight forward. So just understand that I'm moving across the head Keeping everything straight back to the previous section Because I want a nice balanced shape in the back and then when I wanted to go triangular That's what I'm going to go into a stationery guide, which will happen in the next section So here's one thing where people will make an adjustment I'm not going to say it's right or wrong, but I like to have a little bit of disconnection at this point So you'll see that my line Because the hair goes away, right? So the hair around behind the ears where that hole happens because you don't have hair underneath there So when I pull that section out, I actually have hair It almost makes it look like I want to change my finger angle and start scooping under the head I don't want to do that. I want to continue my line straight down That'll give me a disconnection. You can see that balance there It'll give me a disconnection of weight, but I can always cut into that disconnection later So right there where I'm kind of ironing the hair That's where that disconnection is. So I'm using my Palmatra Pro Tools iron Love this iron. It's so smooth on the hair I use a flat iron almost every guest to smooth them out for the cut and now I'm working on that nape area So as I go in You can see and notice I'm wearing a microphone This is actually a live class That if you want to watch it and hear me talk about it while I'm cutting it in a different way in a long form way Go to fseondemand.com and you can see the full class if you're on FSE on demand Just check out our live classes and you can see it So I'm going through and I'm just using the tip of the scissor This is the mattebeck scissor v1. Do have that for sale. It's a limited edition scissor I only have like I think 20 pairs left. So if you're looking to get one It's a five inch scissor. It's great for precision cutting. It also works really great on dry cutting and it's made by Mizetani So I'm working through the nape area Creating that line just using the tip of the scissor notice the graduation and that disconnection That's everything that we've built so far. The other thing I want you to notice is that I I blew it dry and I haven't blown dry the rest of the haircut, right? So the reason I do that is I want to make sure my shape is looking the way I want it before I can Continue on to the rest of the cut a lot of people will do the entire cut then blow it dry then notice that it's too heavy and then Then you know, I don't know what they do some some people don't do anything Some people have to go back and wet it and recut it depends on Your laziness meter, I guess you could say so just I Like to go through blow dry the back really make sure my balance shape is how I want it Then I continue through the front and I connect it all together So notice everything is just kind of diagonal forward parting still bringing everything over to me I'm still working on that center parting. So keeping everything nice and balanced and just bringing it There you go So notice I am wetting it down still There's you know, you don't want to cut wet hair on to dry hair you could But just to make sure that you have that same tension same elasticity in the hair You wet it down just a little bit. So diagonal forward Mimicking what I want my finger angle to be kind of how I'm working with that jaw line So that's how I know I'm going to get a balanced So now I'm going to work through with a flat wrapping technique for the blow dry. I'm using the ergo paddle brush just working my way through and Then go back in with the palmatule Pro Tools iron Just to smooth things out and then I'm going to do some dry cutting to connect everything together Notice my iron work. I take the pretty much the same type of partings And then I work that iron with the head shape. So a Lot of people just kind of flat iron the hair out It's what I've seen when teaching classes people just kind of work that iron straight down You want to bevel it slightly you don't want to curl it, but you want to bevel it with the head shape Now I go in dry cutting technique. I like to take out a little bit of weight You guys know I love the tease cutting technique If you haven't seen it look it up on my channel on YouTube or on FSE on demand just type in tease cutting technique and you'll see some videos on it It takes out some weight creates some texture Slight layering but nothing too to stacked or anything like that So I go through and just remove that weight add the texture lighten the shape up And then you notice that I went through with the tip of the scissor and just refined my line to create that a line Look so right there doing it again following the jawline. I Overdirect everything elevate everything to get the weight where I want it, right? but then the the hairline is where I want to go through and Change that up There we go finishing up the haircut You can see nice shape like I said, this is a classic shape So you could alter it you can make it a little bit longer make it a little more modern But this is my take on a nice classic a line Bob Hope you guys like the video. Let me know in the comments if you have any questions. Thanks for watching All right guys and like always if you made it this far, let me know in the comments I'd love to hear that and make sure you subscribe to the channel I got new videos coming out almost every single day and if you guys are looking for some new tools Go check out free salon education comm go to our online store You can pick up the scissors combs clips everything you see me use in these videos you can purchase Right on our store. So thank you guys so much for watching. I will see you guys on the next video Thanks