 So today I'm starting another brand new repair series. This one is going to be on the Sony PVM 2030 monitor that you see in the background here behind me. And just so you know, today's video is the beginning of a two part series on this monitor repair. Today we're going to go through and we're going to walk around this monitor. We're going to tear it down, do a couple of repairs, and then focus on cleanup. And we will get into some yoke adjustments. But before I get too into that repair, I did want to give you a little bit of background. This was a monitor that I bought off eBay and I have done an unboxing for this one. And I wanted to give you just a couple of other model numbers before we get into this repair. In case you have one of these other model numbers, it's a 2530, a 3230, 2130Q, and a 2730Q. And they may even have an M at the end of that. But those models are specifically going to be designed pretty much in line with this one. You'll notice a lot of the parts being the same, as well as the build out being the same. So first we'll take a look around the monitor to get started. It's pretty clean on the outside, but you'll just notice a lot of these buttons are the same on no matter what model you get, the 2530 or the 2030. Now first we want to get inside this shell. So to do that, there's a screw on the back right here by these notch buttons and other type of menu adjustment buttons. We've got a screw back here and then we've got screws in the corners. There's five screws in total that are holding the back shell on this monitor on. So you want to get rid of those screws and then you can take the shell backing off. Now remember, this one does have a cord that is attached permanently inside the monitor. It's not like the others where you get to plug in a random cord in the back of the PVM. This one's got a permanent cord in it. And that's part of the first repair we're going to be working on. This one also doesn't sit level if you just remove the back shell. So you'll notice me here kind of wedging it up a little bit. And the second piece is styrofoam just to be soft. Now there is a plastic plate under those circuit boards so there's no risk of anything grounding out or touching that foam that's dangerous. But if you look here inside this monitor, you'll notice a lot of grunge, I'm sorry, and dirt built-ups, cobwebs. And this is a very compact design for a 20 inch model of a monitor. A lot of these things are, boards are pretty much screwed in on top of each other. The first repair, though, we need to do is I need to get a new power cable on here. This one's very unsafe. It's just been spliced together. So to do that, I need to get inside this tightly compacted monitor. And to do that, the first thing I'll do is there's a board on the right-hand side. And there's four screws in there, generally one here. You just saw me remove one here and one at the bottom. And sometimes it'll be a fourth one up here at the top. And if you remove that and then you lift that board just ever slightly, let me show you that part again where I lift that board. And you just lift it up just a little bit. And this is almost the exact same procedure for the other side. But lift it slightly, and then it'll pull out. And then you can kind of expand your working area inside the monitor. So you have to really just expand this out to give yourself a little bit more room to work with in there. And to begin with, I'm not going to disconnect the cables on this board. But I will release some of the cable ties in there that are holding all the cables together just to give it a little bit more room to open. The second board I need to get rid of is this input board on the back. And just saw a second ago, I did remove this little board. Well, you don't really remove it. It just swings out. It's got this plastic attachment here that holds it in place. So just remove that. And then you can get working on this board. There are a couple of screws, only two on the side that hold the board in. But once you get that out of the way, you have to really start just disconnecting every single cable connection on this board. And there's quite a few on this input board. I'm not gonna lie, it's probably 15 connections. And so just keep those connection points in the same area. Thankfully, Sony makes, it looks like they're all pretty similar, but they actually only fit in one specific input slot or cable slot there on the back of that input board. So you're not actually gonna risk probably plugging something back into the wrong place. It's just only fits in one spot, the spot it belongs in. So now that we've taken the two boards and gotten them a little bit out of the way, I can get to work on this cable. I just slide that little lock out from its spot. And then this one's in there pretty good. So the best thing to do is going to be to take some clips or snips and cut these cables so I could get them out of the way, clean up the area a little bit and then install a new safe and rated power cable. But just clip it, pull it out of the way. Now there is this little clip on here that if you take a tiny screwdriver, it just clips out of place and then you can reuse this on my replacement cable. I'll be reusing it. So that is taken care of, but I do need to get the old cables out of the way. So I'm going to heat up the points with my solder tip and then on my soldering iron and then use some tweezers so I can pull those cables out of the way and just clean it up as best as possible. That way I can install a new cable. So that's pretty much all the repair that needs to be done for this part is just getting that out of the way. And now I'm getting my new cable in there and we'll get it replaced and soldered back into place here. But this is the power supply area on this monitor. So if you have trouble, you can check this fuse right here if you can't get your power on on this monitor and you can also check in this area right here that's got this large heat sink and shielding. That's where all the capacitors are that control the power supply directly. They're inside this metal box, but you could see I'm just soldering the new power cable into place. It's already got the cable lock on it and I'll just add a nice thick goop glop of flux. You wanna use plenty of flux and some solder on this point just to make sure you got a good connection. So once that is in place, I'll pull the cables just to make sure they're nice and sturdy and that there won't be any way for those two to bridge together of course and cause a real problem. But that again is the power area. So if you have any issues with power, that's probably where it's coming from. Do those capacitors in that shielding or something along with lines with that fuse. So now I'm gonna get the rest of this kind of broken down a little bit more so I can go ahead and start cleaning the monitor now. And I'll focus in on the electron gun area and the glass tube behind the CRT where the electron gun is. And before you look at that, you could see a lot of just grime and build up and you always wanna, when you got it apart like this, it's a good idea to just go ahead and clean it because you don't wanna take it all the way apart again and clean it again. And you really wanna get rid of a lot of that dust and build up so it doesn't cause any extra heat to build up inside your monitor and it makes it look a lot better. So just a real thick layer of grime inside here. And I just like to take a little bit of Windex, put it on a soft paper towel and rub that glass first, clean that off and just tons of dust built up in this thing. You can imagine after 30 years, it will get quite a bit of dust inside something like this, especially with all those boards sandwiched and cramped and put on top of each other. Now, after that, I like to go and use just a soft, extremely soft, non-conductive bristle brush and knock all the loose sediment and dirt off the rest of the monitor. You can see it poofing up and getting all over my hand. So there's a lot of it, especially on the yoke and all the cables kind of above the yoke and all these other cables. They all continue to hold dust in there. And after that, I'll go through with a compressed air hose and spray everything pretty thoroughly in between all the circuit boards and everything and make sure that I can get as much of that dust out as possible. If you use compressed air in a can, it's gonna cost you a lot. So I actually have a full-on air compressor now that works really well for cleaning because it takes a lot of air generally to blow out the dust inside here. But this is definitely something you always wanna do to clean up your monitor and just get a lot of that nasty grime out of the way. It's easiest to do those three steps. So now the monitor is well on its way to be pretty darn clean inside. And the thing now we gotta do is reassemble everything. So just take your time, make sure that you line up the cables back in their proper spots, because it's pretty tedious again to just go through here and reconnect these cables. But it's pretty much all there is to it. It's just reconnecting the cables from the spot that you took them out of. So that's all reconnected. I will leave the board open, but you could, that way you could see how the entire monitor looks when both sides are open and it's cleaned out still very tight in there. But now we can plug in our new power cord and make sure that everything's plugged in correctly by giving it a quick test run. And I'm gonna use a Sega Genesis, you notice I used composite for this initial test. So the monitor is gonna be eventually sold to the Museum of Art, and that is in Philadelphia for exhibits. And they always use these monitors on composite and maybe S video only. They don't use RGB. So I have to calibrate these pretty much on composite to make sure that everything looks right. So this is in the first time turning it on. You could tell we've got some major geometry issues. We've got a lot of screen bow. And so we're gonna need to get in there and at some point adjust pin cushion settings because it's what's going on with our corners. And that's why it looks like a bowed out globe almost on the picture. But the first thing we wanna do is get in here and work on the yoke because the yoke needs to be level so that the screen isn't tilted. And this one you have to manually turn that yoke. And honestly, the easiest way to get in here and work on this yoke, the first thing I'm gonna do is I'm gonna power the monitor off, unplug it. And then I zoom in here, I'm unscrewing the one single screw that's holding in the yoke into place. And so you unscrew that a little bit and it's safe to get your hands in there now since it's unplugged and just work the, turn the yoke clockwise and counterclockwise, rotate a little bit till it breaks free. And I'm gonna pull out all these convergent strips on this one side because I don't think they're really working anymore. But the tech who installed this monitor just loaded the side with convergent strips. There were probably 10 to 12 on this one side of the monitor by itself. So I like to get rid of all those that way I can start from a fresh point, especially on an older model like this. And once you get those out, the yoke has to go far against these wedges. You see these blurred out black wedges, it's gotta be pushed back against them as hard as you can. So you gotta get in there, it just push it all the way up against those wedges till you can't push it any closer. You wanna try to get it level and even. And then you can go back around, turn the power back on and see how the screen looks. And that's where you kinda, I start now with my yoke adjustments. I like to get everything cleaned out there. I like to get the yoke back and then pull it back and then push it back up against the back of the tube. That way we can get a fresh yoke setting. And again, this is very kind of advanced. So the first thing I'm trying to do is just to continue on getting that yoke right in the right spot. So we'll get it now, get a quick test. And this is what I'm looking at up here. If you look at the top portion of this screen, see how it's leaning towards the left? I need to continue to adjust this yoke till I can get both the top and bottom as level as possible, you know, like train tracks. I wanna try to get the top and bottom level. And most of the time I'll go in and adjust a yoke while the PVM or monitor is still running. But since it's such a tight fit in here and you'll definitely shock yourself, at least with a little bit of voltage by trying to work on it without turning it off. So this was a little more tedious where you have to turn it off, make an adjustment, turn the monitor back on and see how it looks. So you do that two or three more times till you make sure that you've got it nice and level or as level as you can get it. And then you'll have to go in and retighten that screw on the back of the yoke that we looked at and your yoke is pretty well set. If you have any purity problems or convergence problems, you'll notice them after that, you know, and you can still go in then and move the yoke around a little bit more to help. But for the most part, you're just trying to get the top line to begin with and the bottom line centered. And you're gonna avoid a lot of purity and convergence issues by pushing that yoke all the way against that glass. So you can go in and make sure it's just pushed as far as possible against that glass and tighten it up with the monitor, this monitor powered off. So that's gonna pretty well do it for the repair and then the yoke settings. So the next video I'm gonna come in here and we're gonna tackle all the geometry and other settings inside of this monitor because that's a pretty in-depth task of using a lot of potentiometers. But we're also gonna go in here and replace the capacitors in here, especially on the geometry board. So that'll be the first thing we'll do in the next video and then we'll go ahead and run through the calibration settings and the final testing and putting it back together. So I appreciate you watching this video. If you learned anything new, please let me know or if you have any questions, leave them below or comments. I really appreciate everybody for watching and I'll see you guys on part two where we'll go through again, calibration and recapping. Thanks again, I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content.