 So as you guys may recall, I had a refrigerant leak on these rotolock style fittings. So what we've got is a new fitting for this here and what we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and just cut it back a little bit and put a new fresh piece of copper in there so when we're brazing straight to that steel that we don't have any problems with any contaminated metal or anything like that. And I got a new seal for over here. We're going to go ahead and recover the refrigerant first. Once that's done, we're going to remove some of the oil so that we can get it down to below the pipe level here. Now this one didn't have the quick fill fittings like the other one did. It had a filter in here. Something I just noticed as I took off the cap, I had a hellacious amount of refrigerant come out. But if you look at this, straighter core right there, look at that, I can catch up with my finger. They didn't put that thing in there very tight or as far as it should go. What happens is when you sit there and buffalo grip this thing on there, you actually shove that straighter core in and cause it to leak. Just there, you can't even hear it. So we're going to go ahead and pull that core out, but that's something to keep in mind. These caps are really for dust, unless you're using a brass cap, these are not meant to seal it. Yeah, this one right here is the same way. So there could have been one of our other leaks. I didn't pick anything up on it, but surely is it helping it none? So make sure those are in, they should be flush or at least seat them. They've got a torque wrench that you can use. I've never used it. They're kind of neat looking, but I haven't needed one yet. Generally, a little common sense in using two fingers seems to work. I'm kind of curious if it turns very much. Oh yeah, look at that. There, I just tightened it up to how I would do it. Look at it, it's completely flush right now. Same thing. I bet you with this one. Okay, there I'm on it, almost one, one and a quarter turns, look it's flush. Got to love it. That's something to keep the luck out for. So for right now, we're just going to go ahead and yank the valve core out. And then what we're planning on doing is we're going to go ahead and recover this and we're also going to replace the filter dryer and we will pull an evacuation on this. That was something I think a few people didn't realize. I wasn't saying on my last video, which I'll have a link up at the top here, it should pop up about now. I never meant to imply that, hey, here's a half turkey bake way of doing something. What it was meant to do was here's some common sense on how to speed this up without doing a bunch of unnecessary work. At no point was I trying to imply that you don't change filter dryers and you don't pull vacuums and all that. That would kind of go against about everything I've done on any of my videos. Sometimes they don't come out. What I've done in the past is open it and it'll blow it out. I'm not going to do that on camera, but if you got one stuck in there, you can actually sometimes blow it out, but be doggone careful. That thing don't come out of there and blast you in the eyeball or put a hole through the roof because that's basically a dart. So we've got the valve core tool here with the valve there coming through the filter dryer, protecting our machine, going from the three eighths line into the machine, which we're dropping down to quarter. I understand that coming into the top of the radiator slash condenser with the fan running, coming out of the bottom, hopefully liquid, coming out, Shrader core depressor removed, going to be going into the tank. You're going to see how well this works. Now, when we're finished, we got to keep in mind, it's usually 0.6 ounces per foot. I end up coming up with about almost a pound of refrigerants, what this thing's going to hold. So when I get done, I actually put a ball valve on the end of my three eighths hose. When I'm got as much out of it as I can get out of it and it's down to zero or negative, I should say, I'm going to valve this thing off, unhook it, hook it onto the input side, then use just a straight hose over to the tank and then blow the remainder into there. Basically recovering what's liquids left in the tank and the three eighths hose here. This is going to press this all in there to its maximum capacity because I think this unit holds 45 pounds in this tank maximum capacity, I believe it's 47. So luckily today it's not super hot or only, I don't know, I'd have to guess maybe 70 degrees out, something like that, 72. So we're going to go ahead and zero this thing out so we can monitor how much weight we're putting into it. We've already got the tank. As you can hear, I had it vacuated. So there's that. Go ahead and get her started. And I just used a splitter here to run the fan there. Probably would help though if we open that up. There we go. There's just sucking it through. I had already purged my hoses all the way up to the tank, so that's why you heard what you heard. You can see the hose shaking from the liquid going through it. Now I would have recommended having another three eighths hose. I just don't have one. But like I said, I do have the straighter core pulled out of that. I'm going to give special recognition to one of my viewers that mentioned doing this. I'll put his name on right now. This is a pretty good idea. And you know, we generally have these laying around all the time. You probably could have got away with a smaller one. The surface area of this is a whole lot bigger than what's in the machine. While that's doing that, let's take a look over here and see what this thing held again. I kind of forgotten. It holds 43.3 pounds. So we'll make sure to put that back in when we get done. That way we'll know she's completely charged. We're at 15 pounds. This is where the machine shut off on the other rooftop unit that I recovered. And so far she's holding right in there at about three. As far as the tank, she's warm, but she's not blazing hot like before. Probably about 104. Yeah, 104 degrees is where we're at. So right now we're about 187, something like that. Still holding pretty good on the head pressure. Still holding about 360. Switched it to the liquid side here just to see if that helps stir it around a little bit. More heat has to rise up. So even though it's got the restrictor in there because of the dip tube. And far as temperature, we're 77 out here. So while we're waiting on this, I'll go ahead and show a little bit of video of me getting this coil cleaned up and getting this thing ready because it was in pretty rough shape. The fins were smashed a little bit and it was pretty dirty. So obviously our flow is important. So I went ahead and chemically cleaned it. We're about 160 there. Head pressure's up a little bit. We're almost about 400, 405. The temperature going in is 116 and it's coming out at 92. Yeah, this is a time saver, big time. I mean, not having to run a garden hose all the way over here. Not having to get a bucket of ice. Tank's gotten a little warmer, about 121 area here. Bottom of the tank, as you can tell, is a lot cooler at 102. So most of my heat is up here on the top. Which is kind of interesting. I almost can't help but wonder, did I restrict it to the point where it caused more issues? More flow, even in vapor, would probably get more flow through the condenser, which then would cool it more. Can't help but wonder if I didn't make a mistake by doing that. If you go back and watch my other video, I followed this little chart here they got, which I don't like. And I've already expressed that. But you look here, we've still got about 45 pounds of pressure on it. Still holding no more than 450 down there. But we've got 44 pounds, 10 ounces, so we're a little overcharged. So going by their chart isn't very accurate. I mean, they always say you go by the nameplate and that's the most accurate thing because they've already done all the testing and got it all figured out and done all the engineering. But that right here shows me that that chart there is not adequate. So I was not impressed with it and I'm definitely not impressed with it now. Because I mean, when I showed low, I had 14 degrees subcooling. This is going out of memory. But if I remember correctly, I still did not hit what they wanted on that chart. And so I would have added even more, which would have been overcharged the unit. So I am not impressed. We did it without having to run any water. Next time I'm going to try it off the top of the tank like I started originally and see if it makes a difference. But we got it all in there and I'm satisfied. That's great. Okay, so we've got a little bit of nitrogen on the system right now and we're going to basically purge out the oil to get that down to level or below, which we're not getting anything, which is not a good sign. Yeah, that wasn't thought out very well. So like I said, basically I wanted to get this below because they're about the same level and we're already below. So that oil is in the system somewhere. I mean, you got some down here. We might add a couple of squirts to it. I brought some POE oil up here, got my pump, but anyhow, let's go ahead and get this thing backed off of there and get this chopped out and get this replaced. It shouldn't be overly tight and this one up too. Like I said, we're going to replace both seals. The only one of these was leaking. Okay, so there's that metal. There we go. Thank goodness that went right in the pan. Holy mackerel. That had been bad. We've got the official Jim Petitiano bowl here. Jim, if you're watching these, man, people are always asking about you. It's time to come back to making videos and screw the haters. That's a fact, Jack. So wipe off any gunk we got here on. Same thing with this one. Luckily, there's no rust on it. We'll peel out those nylon washers out of there. Just got me a new tool by Yellowjacket for changing my gaskets. The gaskets to get into the end there when they're in the deep 3-8s, you can't get them lined up for the crap. But this little gizmo here, you put it on there and shove it right in. Now, it also comes with a pick. So the pick is what I need right now. But those are the gaskets it helps put on, which is pretty sweet. You put that on there like that and it shoves it right into the spot. They're only about 15, 16 bucks. I'll have some of those in my links down there if you guys want to help support the channel and buy those through the Amazon, same price as everything else. Just, I get a small commission off of it. Here's how that comes together, which is pretty slick. Just now I got me a neat little pick, so I can come in there and boom, how she comes. So we'll wipe that out real good and we'll put a new one in. We'll make sure we lubricate it when we do it. I'm going to try to cover this up with some tape, too, because I don't want that oil absorbent moisture any more than it has to while we've got the system open. One part is to make sure we get this figured out on how long it needs to be. I was going the wrong direction. Obviously, on the big stuff, it makes a little more of a difference. It's going to take 45% silver solder to raise dissimilar metals and the flux. So we're going to make sure we get her all cleaned up. The metal will heat up faster than the copper usually, so you just got to watch your patterns and watch your heat. You'll be able to see where it's going. We'll clean all this out here in a second. You can see all this time it's taken to do this. That's the reason why I put that over top of the plugs for the oil. You don't want it set in there absorbing the moisture anymore and you have to. You know that you can't get that freaking moisture out of the oil. That's what your filter dryers for. Generally, you could pull forever. At least that's what they always taught us. Maybe things have changed. A lot of things have, but there's that. Okay, I haven't cleaned it up with a wire brush or anything, so you can actually see it. There's no carbon inside there at all. And other than a little flaking from the metal, which is the galvanized coating, there's only so much you can do about it if you've got to get it hot, I was able to pull it all in there and then put a little bead around the outside when I got done, but I made sure to pull it all the way up. As far as I could get it without overheating any worse than what I already did, and there you go. It's fully solid all the way around and should not be any leaks. All right, so I haven't had to do this a bunch of times, so I'm not taking a chance of it being too short. I just have this bad feeling that things aren't going to line up right, which it almost looks like they didn't get them lined up to begin with, which might be why it cracked. It's very possible when they were putting this together at the factory they didn't get this situated quite right. And then with the heat and the twisting and turning and the shaking and the vibration and all that could be why it leaked, because it, you know, it was leaking on the solder joint, braze joint. Well, we know exactly where it goes at. We'll braze it outside here that way it won't burn anything up. Sometimes you've just got to think about it for a minute and how you want to do it. This is our front one to get the other side, so we'll flip it over for that. We're going to go ahead and get this one nailed into place now because they've already burned off my markings for my marker, so I don't want to lose that position. So just suck that into the joint. Take off our tape that we put back on, got our rings, they're back on there right like that. Put a little bit of this oil that we had left over on that fitting there and get it to turn a little bit. Maybe put a little bit on that ring there. I'm sure these have a torque wrench setting, but I don't know what they are and they didn't put it in the instructions because, you know, they obviously didn't think it was that important. We're using an 8-inch wrench here, so we're not going to overdo it to the point where it caused an issue later, so I'm going to say that right there looks to be pretty good. We've got a pressure test on it right now, the sprayer fittings down. I don't see anything leaking, so that's a good thing. Everything looks good. System like this nearly takes a tank or more, but I thought it was worthwhile to try checking it before I pulled it back on it and then charged it up and found it. Everything out of my hose here. Make sure we got good clean liquid. This is not the same as fluid ounces, but it gets me close. I don't want to put too much in there because the system's probably got the oil in it. There's a little bit down here, but I don't feel as though we've lost that much. Okay, we're going to stop there and we're going to let the system run for a while. Then we may have to come back and double check it. I don't want to overfill it with oil or 25 ounces, plus the three we purged out, so 26-27 ounces. Okay, you guys have seen this a million times, so I'm not going to go into big details, but basically they don't have a suction port over here on this side, so I'm going off of the liquid and hot gas discharge of the compressor, and I'm going to put my micron gauge on the suction port over at the other side. You figure the liquid lines bigger than most systems freaking suction lines, so we're going to get pretty good volume out of it and we'll make sure we're getting it on the other side. So that's not been running very long and we've already bragged about these big blue hoses, but here we are way over here. We're already at 1900 already, so I'd say it's less than what, 2 minutes, 3 minutes? Not bad. So, we're going to go ahead and let this thing pull down. The biggest thing I wanted to do on this video is just kind of show you guys the new sub-cooler I built and to test it out, and you guys could watch and see whether it worked with me, because I wasn't sure if it was going to work or not, so in all reality I think it did really good. We crammed pretty much almost maximum capacity into the recovery tank there, which was great, and basically you got to see the rotor lock fitting being replaced and the oil being added to the system. Like I said, I'm going to need to come back in a few days and double check it to see where it's at. I can about guarantee you there's not that much that's been lost there on the ground, which I don't know if that's from a previous repair, which I assume might be the case, but I wanted to make sure there was some in there until then and we can always take it back out. So the nice thing about this flare to flare dryer we got going on here is I'm able to flip it around and build it coming out of the tank now, where if it was a male to female it wouldn't be so easy. So we bled the hose, we got it zeroed out here, and we're going to dump in and see how much will actually go in with the traditional method here, so we're just going to charge through the high side and see what we get. Wait until it hits high pressure, then we'll remove it, so we got that. Fairly go ahead and do it with the quarter inch hoses just so we can save any left over. You can see it's jamming quite a bit of liquid right through there, so if you skip your bubba, we are ready to roll. So it's running, running about 330 pounds ahead right there with a 105 discharge temperature, and when you come up to 105, which is this line right above 100, and you follow that down to 325, intersect them, you're above it, add if above the charge. Yeah, how about subcooling, Mr. Engineer, because that's a bunch of crap, it don't work. I mean everything's feeding right, my super heat, and everything was just fine when we checked it the last time. So we don't have an issue with a restriction, a bad TXV, or anything like that. We had good subcooling, I think we had like 14 before I even added anything to it. So, you know, in both stages are running, both compressors are running, well first stage is one compressor, second stage is the opposite compressor with the first one shut off, and then both of them running high stage, and we are in high, and it's been running for about 10 minutes or so, and head pressure is about as high as what it's gotten, which is also controlled by a variable fan control, it has an ECM control on the motors, a couple of them, or maybe all of them I'm sure, looks like it might be all of them, they got the little module on the back end of them, so I mean this isn't no cheap unit. So like I said, just a 22.5 ton, and I do not approve, I think that sucks, but what do I know? Other than that, that kind of wraps this one up, and I appreciate you guys taking the time to watch it, if you like it, and you want to see more like it, please give it a thumbs up. Leave me a comment down below, don't forget to subscribe, and click that notification bell, and we will catch you guys on the next one.