 guys today we've got a freezer here that acted up over the weekend and the customer comes back in today and it's working. Got a fan motor that's not running, got a time clock over here, it's fairly well-tracking time. You've got to find out if this fan's got an issue or if it's just off on pressure switch or what exactly. Our solenoid's on, big field, it kicks back on. Now I'm far enough, this is what's gonna happen. She's gonna sit there and wrap the cycle back and forth. Today's a cooler day and it's still doing it. So the differential needs adjusted a little more. That motor's hot. Okay now you can actually hear with that motor off. The condenser fan is overheated, it's hot, it's it's it's wore out. The low pressure switch is completely out of whack, it's short cycling the compressor off, it's a dual pressure switch. We're going to replace both of them. It looks like original from at least 15 years plus ago. When you crank it in it leaves you exposed to the inside of the receiver. One thing that you're gonna learn if you come from the air conditioning world is the valves are opposite of what you're used to. Normally you can valve off a condenser unit and you know your line set's exposed. Well with the way refrigeration set up, generally you're exposed to the system like the compressor. We're going to get a brass cap put on that T over here. This is what happens when you get on some really really old equipment. The valves are all rusted out. So we use a brass cap, this can be the same type of sealing capabilities as what a flare fitting is gonna be. We're gonna put a little dialogue on our threads. It's just a lubricant but the valve is defective. So there's only so much you can do with that. I don't like leaving the old switch on there or anything like that because that's just a nasty leak just waiting to happen. In a perfect world everything would get replaced every 10 to 15 years and that's just not the way it is. Yeah if we used to mess with that valve too much we'd probably start leaking at the stem. I'm surprised we ain't leaking on the receiver there. That tubing we use is just regular old tubing and then we'll split it with a razor knife and just wrap that on the capillary tubes to help keep them from vibrating into things and you can just bend it however you need it and put it wherever you need it. Get a 407C which is our refrigerant. Cut in, cut out. We're going for the other side of things. Actually should have done bubble on that. Bubble mean like think of it as high bubble up in the air, dew down low, low side, bubble high. That's going to be, yeah here's 150, so 130, 40, 50. Say 150 would be 400, 425 almost 450. So yeah let's take it just a little bit higher because it's easily going to hit it if the fan motor goes out. Now we're going to go for dew, low side. We want it to be cooler to be running. You figure a VAP temperature. It's going to come up to at least 30 so there's 50 pounds. You set it too high and if it's cold outside it may not come on. So actually go 30. About a 25 differential. 30 is going to be a 13 degrees so with the refrigerant that should be high enough that it's not going to have an issue coming on in the winter. We've got a little bit of nylog on there. Snug her up and then back her up. Twist that head off. That make a mess. If you notice, I don't know if you can see it or not, but the body is not twisting. That's where the nylog comes in handy. It's not allowing the body to twist like crazy. Now you could put some Loctite, third sealant, the white stuff, or you could use Leak Loct which I'm not a fan of at all. On the threads only, not on the mating surface. The only thing you put on the mating surface is something like refrigeration oil or the nylog, which the nylog is nothing but a refrigerant oil. But that's there. Got our hose here. Looped through away from all the vibration points. So we'll get us a tee. We use ones that have a depressor. Watch out for the ones that don't. Kind of like these bull heads. These are usually taken off the compressor head. That's why they're kind of a low profile like that. They don't have depressors, a lot of them. The little condenser house here has a fan down there. It's controlled by a little thermostat right there. So we just turn it down. Want to make sure that's set correctly too. It's getting colder out. Don't need more air coming through here when it's winter time. Probably we'll put just like that. And guys, I'm doing this for the newer guys that don't, they haven't done it. So don't think I'm bringing all this crap up just because it's something new type deal. Like I think it's something new. Since it has a depressor, we can leave that one there alone. The biggest thing for this is supposed to be on the backside of these, which is really nearly impossible. But you can kind of put some of that on there. Go forward and kind of get it in there. You can put a little bit on your mating surface here. What you really need to add is right here on the backside. And if you want, you can put a little dab on the front. Get a little twist-a-roo. We got a little extra there so we can do a loop. Take up some of the slack. That's where things get a little tricky. You're gonna have a backup wrench on your main one. At the same time, you're gonna want to hold on to that so it doesn't turn. It's a little difficult. Open this back up, check for leaks. Get that motor changed yet. All we got to do is open that just a little bit of a turn so it lets the pressure through. We're gonna go ahead and set this low pressure switch. Make sure it's accurate before we go ahead and get the condenser being changed. Guess what? That motor's bad. Both motors are bad. That's why it went out. So it went out on overload. So not only did we have a switch that's out of whack, but that motor's out. Both motors are out. Finally, it doesn't surprise me. It's always more than what you think. Wow, look what else I've seen going on. We got a crappy connection there on the capacitor. It's arcing. I can smell it. I need to chop those off and redo them. I spun the motor to get them by. They only have one in stock, so I'll have to get another one coming. There's just so many things wrong here. Yeah, that's loose as a goose. Crappy old connectors. That's hot too. What else do we got wrong here? Yeah, that's loose. I'm gonna do a video dedicated how to crimp on crimp ons because I actually did some research in that right there where you got a little divot. That is a crappy crimp connection. Now, granted, the real problem is these prongs have got loose and these are nowhere near the quality of the factory crimp ones. But I'd say my crimper is the only good one out there. This is actually an aviation crimper and even though it's not certified, it's probably the closest thing without spending 230 bucks. But the problem I see, people just pinch them down with their pliers or whatever and they don't get a good connection. This thing should be on there molded on there and shouldn't be able to be pulled out. You get done with one of these crimps from this and this is not one of the Harbor Freight garbage ones. Even though it's made in Taiwan, it's still got the actual dies where crimps are relief strain on the back side and a true oval shape on the back very similar to your clines. The clines don't quite have the grip to do the yellow connectors quite as well as what this one here can do. That one right there gets a nice perfect crimp along the barrel in here and it puts a relief crimp on it. It looks factory. It's not going to let go. I always replace my connectors whenever I'm reconnecting onto a capacitor. This one here's not too bad. That one there pulls off pretty easy. That one pulls off easy. That one's on there so we need to redo those too. But that's kind of an important thing to make sure these are tight. There's a lot of amperage going through there at first and that's going to wear that out in addition to all the other stuff. So things to look for. These came from a place called Cleveland Tool. I'll leave a link down in the description. Always check out in the description area of my videos. Anything that I might have used. I'll have links to it so that you guys can check it out if you want. Let's see if she'll pump down this time without arcing. That start relay should have a resistor across it to bleed it down. Probably why we're getting a little extra arc there in our contacts. I'm going to add one of those to that also. Check that capacitor on the motor and see if it's good or bad. The condition of this motor to see all the oil around the outside edge corners where do you think that oil came from. It's from the bearings. So it's coming down to the point where it's not good or just about where we need to be at. There she's shut off. It's almost about eight. Probably could run it down a little bit further. Just our differential. See where it comes on at. 25. Almost 30. About 30-ish. There's about five while we're waiting on that. We'll go and check that capacitor real quick. Go ahead and short those now. So you know you're not supposed to short start capacitors. You're supposed to bleed them. Run. You can get away with it but start. You're not supposed to. Just so you know. Now it's between you getting a little crap shocked out of you and you want to be safe. Not a bad idea. But you're not supposed to. Capacitor 0.95. So it's junk. Should be a five. Okay let's go ahead and check our amp draw here on it. It's supposed to be no more than 1.5. To be there it's not a big enough motor. It's not the OEM motor. It's breaking down. I want to leave it up to the customer and let him decide that way. I didn't talk him into one way or the other and then he can make the decision. Okay. Explained situation. He said go ahead and get it ordered. So we're gonna replace the one that has a complete down motor and then once that's done we'll come back tomorrow and replace the other one. That Mars resistor kit is a 93106 and basically it's got resistors already mounted on crimp ons and you just put one of those on there and it bleeds it down. Simple as that. I think it's 20,000 ohm. One watt. I think one watt. That'll be for your pastor for your start. It's kind of tired. A little war out. Everything's cleaned up. Got the wires strapped down. The shielding form's missing. It's gone. I'll give them the option to replace that when I come back. That motor's working for now. Got an OEM motor there. Got new connectors on there. Got the resistor on there. Bleed resistor for the start capacitor. Had the new dual pressure control set up there. We've already set our low pressure control. It's shutting off like it should. Just basically need to go ahead and just let her run and do her thing. The cyclist was full. Everything pumps down as it should. So this one's good for now until we come back with the motor. So otherwise this job's complete. Basically we had an intermittent fan that was running. The other one was already out. So it went off on head pressure. It shut down. The cooler got warm. It cooled down. Came back on. Started running again and then we just found other problems. There was other issues such as the loose connectors on the capacitors and start relays. Low pressure switch that was just out of whack needed replaced. So those are the basics of what we got going on there. A lot of times it's just a matter of investigating until you find the cause for the problem. Especially when it's running when you get there. If you like the video please like share and subscribe. Check the links out down below and until next time we'll catch you on the next one.