 All right, you guys. So Butterick released a summer collection. I've been hearing lots of rumors on the internet about this, about how most of them are reprints from Old McCall's patterns. But nonetheless, we are gonna take a look because, first of all, maybe there are some people that didn't see those original patterns. And second of all, it's always nice to review patterns, whether they're reprints or not. Kind of like taking a look back. All right, so let's jump in. This very first one is a women's dress and jumpsuit. Women's faux wrap dress and jumpsuit with sleeve variations is the description. And, oh yes, okay. So it looks like we have a very high, like jewel neckline, maybe a little slit here. But then also this overlay. I love how it's fitted through the bodice. Kind of sort of fitted through the waist and hip, too. And then it just kind of gently floats away from the body. It's really beautiful silhouette. And then you have this fuller sleeve on this one. Looks like an overlay skirt, too, that come, they both tie here. Which I love all of this like extra gathering of fabric and whatnot creates just like a really beautiful illusion. And then there's a jumpsuit version. This is a little concerning. I don't love that. I also don't love that this bust dart is like four inches, not four, two inches too high. Interesting that they would choose a photo that is literally like showing the worst of the fit because it's even pulling on this little keyhole here all through here pulling. So definitely, definitely check your bicep measurement on this and even your sleeve cap. This might be one of those things where you need to, you know, add a whole bunch more ease to the shoulder that goes like to the sleeve head that goes over the shoulder. But it is really cute as a jumpsuit with the just single little wrap detail here. That's the same dress as the last one. Here's the back. What can we see in the back? We've got some darting, beautiful invisible center back zip, pretty straightforward. And then here's the back on the jumpsuit. It's a little, why is this dipping? The dip is concerning and then also, doesn't it look like it's like pulling away from her body a little bit? I don't mind that. It might be more of the zipper than anything else but the dip, I don't love the dip. And maybe like in this version, I didn't even notice the dip, you know? But maybe in this stripe, it's just so obvious. I don't know. Okay, there we go. And this comes in just the women's sizes. So really, really cute silhouette. If you're able to figure out some of these fit issues, go for it. Now this is making it look like it's supposed to be a little bit blousy but I was not getting blousy vibes from the pink one. See, this is not blousing over at all. So I would almost just alter it without whatever ease they've added to the bodice, the length I would like design ease that's there. I would just remove that so that it just all sits at your natural waist, no blousing. There's really no need for that. Cute though. And I get where they were going with the stripe. Stripes are tough, but yeah. It's cute, real cute. Let's see what fabrics they are recommending. So crepe, shally, rayon, and silk. So lightweight drapey fabrics. They can have some sort of structure to them but yeah, they do need to be somewhat drapey. And then for me, my personal preference, I want it to be a little bit structured as it comes over the bum. But I gotta say, I was so distracted by this earlier, the way that this fits through the bum and even through the thigh and all of that. I mean, maybe a little bit too deep of a crotch curve but an easy remedy there. It looks fine. Like this is just me being super, super picky. Okay, so it comes in sizes 18 to 24 and then 26 to 32 and no finished garment measurements. Just width. But here's the back length from the waist. So that's the length of the pant from the waist and then the width of each leg. Interesting, like whatever. I've been over that so many times. I can't continue to beat a dead horse, is that the saying? It does take quite a bit of fabric, almost four yards. I feel like we've been, it's kind of like a new trend we've been seeing where the patterns are all taking so much more fabric than they ever used to. Okay, here we've got a Mrs. Dress. Mrs. Bodice Yoke Dress with skirt, flounce and sleeve variations. So it looks like the bodice. We have that same jewel neckline with the keyhole and the hook and eye clasp. This one has a interesting design here. We'll take a look at it a little bit closer in the line drawing, but you've got all these gathers here that are like a sweetheart neckline kind of and they come up to this little right angle. These are not fun to sew, but they do produce a really beautiful shoulder. I mean, come on. And then there's some gathering here as well. So that's what creates the volume for the bust. There's no darts or anything. This is in lieu of darts. Then you have a really beautiful kind of like A-line skirt that also has a flounce and this flounce continues up through the front of the body. Look how cool that is. So a little bit frilly, a little bit made trimly. You know what, better in a print, a lot better in a print actually. I could see this like in a Bowdoin catalog. So I think maybe that color, this like light blue color just felt a little bit more mature, but this, I love the sleeve option. Really cute. Here's the back. So the back has an elastic with a button, another keyhole. I don't know what their obsession with those keyholes are, but look at these style lines. So interesting. So I imagine actually the construction of this is a lot easier than I had originally thought. So that's good news. But yeah, you have this really cool yoke that just goes kind of over the width of the shoulder and that's where the sleeve extends from. That's an interesting thing you don't see very often. Then we have the gathering above the waist, but a dart below the waist on the skirt, invisible zipper, and then your flounce just carries through the back. Pretty. Oh, and it's a li-zet pattern. Yeah, okay. Lovely zet patterns, I have a lot of those. But yeah, so it looks a little western, right? On the line drawing, but I think they did a really good job of translating that to something that's really kind of modern and even urban. I wouldn't look at these, the dresses made up and think, oh yeah, she's headed to a honky tonk or I don't know whatever it is, whatever you will do. But it is a really cool, unique design that you don't see very often. I like that. Okay, so lightweight drapey fabrics for sure. And then you also have a lining, two different linings, lining one and lining two. I'm not entirely sure what the difference is, but they want you to do one in a lining fabric and one in a chiffon, so whatever that means. Invisible zipper, hook and eye button, and then some elastic, three quarters of a yard, of elastic, wonder where that is. Three quarters of a yard is kind of a lot, but it's not enough for a waist. Oh, is that for the little back hoop thing? You definitely don't need three quarters of a yard for that either. So I don't know what that's about. Okay, so here are our yardage requirements and then we just get a length finished. Okay, six to 24 on the size range. Next up, we have this little cutie, Mrs. Jewel or the fit, the neck fit and flare. Dresses fitted through busts have neckline variations, princess seams, stitched hems and invisible back zipper. All right, so beautiful collar, especially on her, it kind of pulls out her hair highlights. But yeah, you just have these long princess seams. Another ankle length, which I think is just Butterick's way of saying we're different than the other big four patterns who, you know, like McCalls is doing really short hemlines and then the others are doing knee length or maybe midi and this is Butterick's way of just saying, you know, we're a little different. I don't think that it necessarily translates into something that means older necessarily, it's just more conservative, I guess. They have this shorter version, speaking of all that about length, they have this knee length version, a short sleeve, a v-neck line, again in the powder blue. Here's the back, so same sort of style lines as in the front. Center back zipper, it's invisible, then you have the princess seams. These also work a lot like fish eye darts do, so I love to see that. Oh, and it is a polymer plush pattern, so you're gonna learn a lot about fitting if you get this. So yep, there are our style lines. I've had ready to wear dresses made similar to this with the princess seams, the length of the dress and they're always super, super flattering. So yeah, it's just classic, simple, but they can make an impact. And they made theirs in solids but they're also really pretty in prints too. But of course the style lines kind of get lost when you do them in print, so I see why they did solid for the kind of marketing aspect of it. All right, so we've got crepes, cotton blends, gabardine and satin, so a little bit more structured of a fabric here. I actually appreciate that, even though this is a summer collection, like we can do a cotton linen blend, you know what I mean? So then you need an invisible zipper and a hook and eye, all sizes in one envelope, love that. Six to 22, all in one, great, great, great, great. And then here are your fabric requirements. On this one they decided to give us a bust line and a hip line measurement. So we've got a finished bust line of 33 and a half to 47 inches and then the hip line measurement of 41 to 54 and a half. So the hip is pretty generous and the bust is pretty fitted. So it is just like they say a fit and flare. All right, now we've got another cute little one. I already know what you guys are thinking, oh, these are just for the office or professional. And yes, they do tend to be a little bit more businessy. I guess that kind of goes hand in hand with being real conservative, but there are other social things that you can wear stuff like this too, if you want. Try to think outside the box a little bit, I guess. This one's called Mrs. Fit Pattern. I wonder what that means. Oh, it's another Palmer blush. Okay, Fit Pattern dresses and optional collar. Okay, dresses have optional collar, fitted bodice, semi-fitted skirt, stitched hems and invisible backpack zipper and hemline slit. So here, I actually really love the Peter Pan collar. I feel like it was around a lot when I first started sewing, maybe eight, 10 years ago and then it went away. So if it's coming back, I don't know, I quite like a Peter Pan collar. This one has a very another fitted sleeve. If she had her hand on her hip like the other girl did, we would have the same issues. Definitely, I mean, I love like a tailored looking sleeve, but like there is a balance between being able to move and having your sleeve fitted. So they have belted it here and I don't think these are design lines. I don't think, maybe we'll see. Yeah, I think it just got kind of twisted in some way. Let's go back to this one. Here's the jewel neckline and the long sleeve. Yeah, I mean, it's a little matronly. Also very long in the waist on her. Granted, she's just a fit model and they can only do so much, but really long in the waist and then you've just got your traditional bust starts. This might be one of those dresses that just serves as like, you know, your dress sloper, your fitted dress sloper because it is so basic and because it's Palmer Plus, you're gonna get a really great fit on it and then you can use that as a jumping off point going forward. Maybe that's how I would look at this, but it did have that little kick fleet in the back as well. All right, so here are our style lines. Yeah, again, pretty basic. I do love this little second dart. That is so cool. Two darts on the skirt and then one dart on the bodice. Thank you very much. And then is this detachable? Did it say detachable or optional? Optional collar. They make it look like you put it on like a necklace though, which that's cool. Wool crepe, wool blends, gabardine, satin, yeah, sort of those midweight woven zipper and hook and eye all sizes in one envelope. Again, six to 22. If they start moving more toward this across the board for buttery, you better bet your, whatever, bet your something that I don't know what the saying is, that I will be swapping out some of my more classic patterns, you know, the classic styles for this so that I can grade between sizes a lot easier than some of those others. Okay, so here's your finished garment. I mean, so your fabric requirements, not too bad, but again, it's got hardly any design needs on it. And then here's the collar. Yeah, I think it works as like a necklace. That's pretty cool. And then your bust line measurement is the same as the last pattern, hip line much more fitted. So we're at a 36 inch finished hip line up to 49 and a half. And then those things there. All right, now we've got a cute little top. Actually, this top kind of sort of looks like that dress. Am I right? Mrs. Wraptop though, okay, has gathers at yoke, tie sash and sleeve variations. So wrap. Now, when I see wraps that are true wraps, I always get super nervous about the little cleavage area and gaping. So they did not try to hide anything from us by providing a seated pose photo because when you sit down, your top half kind of compresses a little bit. This is not too alarming to me in terms of gaping, but it is pretty low. It is pretty low. You can definitely have these cross over more for more coverage, but it does not look like that was the intention as you can see on her as well. Cute little wrap top though, again with this little swoopy shoulder thing. I like that, I'm here for that. And then like a wider sleeve and then it flares out kind of like a little peplum because of the wrap. Oh, and this one has little sleeve gathers here. They do seem a little bit wide these sleeves whereas the short sleeves are also fitted. The long sleeves tend to be really wide, but this is so cool how it gathers all the way around. I really like this design. Hers is higher now. I wanna point that out as well, no cleavage. So maybe you can like fiddle with it a little bit. Well, now that she's standing up, it does look awfully sloppy. I do love this flat piping though, that is really pretty. Here's the back. Super cool. Yes, girl with the sheer with no tank top on underneath. Pretty, I like that. Look how cool the line drawings look. I'll probably wait to see if more people make this so I can kind of analyze that. Well, I guess I could put it on my ditto form too. It's not a ton of work to fix a wrap top like this, but it is a little bit. It is a little bit of work. Double georgette, crepe, wall, linen blends, and shali. Yeah, lightweight, not necessarily drapey, but borderline, like this is very close to a drapey woven. But I guess you could do something a little more structured. You just have to make sure that these gathers don't act funny. I think this is as probably as structured as you're gonna go. Can you see the difference in her gathers versus these, well, let's get a close up. They just are smaller and kind of lay flatter, you know. Good gracious. Look at these fabric requirements for a top. Wow, that's incredible. All right, if you say so. I guess if it is a true wrap, I don't know. You would think this detail would make it less, but I don't know. I can only speculate as of now because I haven't made it before, but super cute. Okay, now we have this Mrs. Top and Sash. I remember a couple of years ago when this little wrap-over fold-over thing was just coming out, it was so cool, it still is. Have I made a top like that? I can't remember. Mrs. Knit Top, Knit, which I like, with front neck pleats, back tie opening, sleeve variations, and sash. This purple color is so pretty, too. Okay, so you've got these pleats that are sewn in, and you can tell, yeah, they are kind of pulling down and exposing the seam a little bit, but I think that's just maybe and super, super picky. You have a doleman sleeve, no, raglan sleeve. Then you have your elasticated sleeve opening. It's belted. If it weren't, it would just be like a straight line kind of tunic. Here's hers in a, without the belt, still pulling down a little bit. I hate that. I don't hate that, but it does look a little, I can just imagine myself like just constantly like touching that, wanting it to lay flat. And if the, my goodness, the professional sewists this big company can't get it to lay flat, and there are no way I'm going to be able to. I think it's just really heavy. I just think all of this is super, super heavy. Maybe you could like cut this part in half and then reduce the number of pleats, and that might help. Or maybe if you laid it flat and then like, I don't know, blind stitched it underneath in some way. But again, that's a lot of work for just like a little knit top. The sleeve is so pretty though. I do love a raglan sleeve and a knit so much. Let's see hers. This one's a little bit better, but still. It's just a personal thing. If that's not going to bother you, this is a really cute top, but I just know it would get on my last nerve. Cute, cute, cute. Very cheekos. Oh goodness, what is this? Is this how it ties with ribbon? This is how it closes in the back. No, that's silly. What is the point of that? Oh gosh, that just cheapens the whole thing. You don't even need that. This is a knit top, just sew it all closed. Ugh, no thank you. Especially too, because it's like grow green ribbon. Like we know, first of all, that doesn't want to stay tied. Second of all, nobody likes trying to tie something at the upper part of their neck. It's just annoying and hard to do. And third of all, it's a knit top. Like you don't need that. Okay, well clearly this one has annoyed me. Moderate stretch, 35%. So not super stretchy. Jersey interlock cotton knits and rayon knits. This stupid ribbon and hooks and eyes and elastic. Oh, for the sleeve, okay. This one I anticipated having kind of a lot of fabric, but it's more than the last top, which that makes no sense to me. More than the wrap top. It does, it is alphanumeric sizing from extra small to two X, but no finish garment measurements. Okay, I'm gonna move on from that one. Now we've got, oh, unisex, unisex button downs. Wow, roomy. Okay, fitted shirts have pointed collar, collar and front bands, self-lined yoke. Forward shoulder seams and narrow hem. Okay, I'm getting scrub vibes initially, but this is your proper collar with the collar stand and the pointed collar coming out. So there's that drop shoulder. There is a patch pocket here and then it is just very, very loose fitting. There might be some shaping through here, but it is just, I mean, that could be a dress. Here's the men's version. Here it is like a cardigan type style. Interesting, all right, it's another Palmer plush. I'm so happy to see so many of their patterns showing up here. I'm now, okay, you guys that have been doing big four for a long, long time, was Palmer plush always with butteric? I don't think so, weren't they with McCalls before? So maybe that's what happened. Maybe with the rebranding, Palmer plush said, okay, let's take a minute. Let's not do anything for a few seasons. We'll come back and see where we fit in with the new rebrand. I don't think Palmer plush was with butteric. I really don't. All right, so here is our line drawings. We have the short sleeve version, short length, then long sleeve version and a longer length then you have your curved hem and then the difference between C and D must be length. Oh, the pocket? Yeah, a lot of options. If you need a good classic button down, maybe this is the one for you. I think it's a little bit too loose fitting personally, but maybe you like that. The options are good. I'm here for some options. What are these little doodads? Are they like, let's see if it's in the notions. Buttons, buttons and snaps. So no. Cotton lawn gingham, madras, poplin gauze, yeah, all your shirting fabrics. Okay, small to three X. This is a chest measurement of 34 inches up to 56. Well, there's definitely something to be said for that. It comes in two different envelopes. Small, medium, large is in one and then one X to three X is in the other one. So okay, finished garment measurements, 40 inches. So six inches of ease in the chest. That is a roomy top for a woman. Maybe that, maybe for guys. I don't know, I don't so men's wear. Maybe for guys, six inches is kind of standard. That feels like a lot for. Well, then again, it just depends on how you like your shirts. If you like a loose fitting shirt, then yeah, that makes sense. It's not like it's a tent, it's just not fitted, which I guess that's the point. So it's fine. Close fitting, pullover tops have draped front neckline variations, narrow hem on back neckline and stitch gems. This has to be a knit, am I right? Has to be. So it's a cowl neck. I do love the cowl into this little like shoulder cap type sleeve thing. Very, very fitted, especially through the hip. So here's, oh, the version with the sleeve, okay? These pictures are like very glamour shots. Who remembers glamour shots? And then here's a little sleeve version. Another Palmer flesh, that's our fourth one. Girlfriend's been busy. So here's the, it's just sleeve variations. That's the only difference. I think the bodices are all the same. So our yardage, yeah. Jersey knit, cotton knit, interlock and novelty knits. I'm a little disappointed. They didn't put the stretch percentage. They did say medium weight moderate stretch knits, but I don't know that a lot of people, especially new sewists, really know what that means. Scene binding, I don't even know if they know what that means. Is that bias binding? I don't know. And then we have eight to 16 and then 16 to 24. So they're bringing back that old size range where there is a little bit of overlap. Finished bust, remember this is knit. So it's gonna be, you know, possibly even negative ease, especially in the hip. So 33 to 47 and a half in the bust and 35 to 49 and a half at the hip. At least the fabric requirements are manageable. I mean, one and one eighth yards for that little tank, that makes sense. That makes sense. Oh, here's the back. I wanted to see, maybe that's what the scene binding is for. Cause this just looks like a band, so, okay. So this is the top that I've been seeing a lot. This has been on social media, which I thought was so interesting because it's really just a T-shirt. But nonetheless, this is what they've chosen to kind of hang their hat on this season. T-shirts and tank top, another Palmer plush average difficulty, close fitting, pullover, T-shirts and tank tops have neck binding variations and stitched hems, okay. I was a little bummed to see that they couldn't get that together, but that's just me, again, being picky like I can be. So short sleeve top, a little bit of funky, monkey, monkey happening here and here, do you oppose? This is a V-neck, so you have your scoop neck, your V-neck, these are the same, where's A? They didn't put A on here. This is C, oh man. So A is the tank top. Not only did they not make up a tank top, but they didn't even put in a little illustration. Interesting choice, okay. So tank top with a V-neck, again, but all the necklines are swappable. And then you can do banded tank, short sleeve, three-quarter sleeve, long sleeve, and then there's even instructions to do like, I guess like a baseball tee type of thing. Okay, fabrics. Again, medium weight knits, no stretch percentage. Cotton knits, jersey knits, interlock and novelty knits. Eight to 16, 16 to 24. One yard wonder on that tank top, love that. I mean, even the short sleeve tee, I mean, you might, depending on your size, be able to eke out one yard. I mean, can you not just scrunch them together a little bit more, you know, that's all I always think. And then D is 7 eighths of a yard, what was D? Oh, for the contrast, okay. What in the world was that? So that's a great stash buster. I mean, little less than a yard of two different fabrics, certainly you have that in your knit stash. And then finished bust is 32 and a half to 47. This lower edge width can kind of act as a hip measurement, 36 to 50 and a half. Again, remembering negative ease because we've got, we're working with knits. So batwing, I haven't seen a batwing in a minute. Mrs. Thompson tunic, clothes fitting pullover topper tunic has dropped shoulder and low armhole, sleeve variations. I mean, straight out of, oh shoot, what's that eight foot? No, not footloose. The one where the water spills on her, you know, she's in the chair and the water spills on her. That's not footloose. She's a maniac. Is that even the right song? Oh gosh, anyways, it's giving me strong like eighties dance aerobic vibes with this and the legging. Oh gosh. All right, so a little scoop neckline, grown on sleeve, real easy to sew. I like this, I like this style of loose fitting knit top. Oh, and then here is your fall version, a little out of place in a summer collection. Am I right? But okay. Here it is with a little sleeve on it. I mean, it can go a little bit matronly, I guess, but you can make it young and fun depending on how you style it, you know, your fun jewelry, all that kind of stuff. She looks like, what am I wearing? It's cute, and I would also, I was just gonna say, I'd also even consider lengthening it to a dress, but they did that already for us. So, it's cute, it's cute. And can you imagine how comfortable that would be? Oh, my word. All right, so yardage, moderate stretch knits is, which I guess is that standard 35% cross grain is considered moderate, so you could apply that to the previous knit patterns we've seen, cotton knits, jerseys, interlock, and stretch knits. What's it called when it's like 50% or more? Very super, what's the word? I don't know. And then you just need a little bit of elastic for your notion, eight to 16, 16 to 24. Yeah, you need a lot of fabric, you just do. But you don't need that much more to make the long version with the cowl neck. So it makes me just feel like it's all because this is such a large, I mean, this is basically two pattern pieces is what it is. And this with the scrunching and all of that, it's just, yeah, it's just a lot. Another cute idea that I didn't see here, great easy little hack, instead of putting the elastic here, you could get a little drawstring hack and have a little drawstrings here so you can let it down so it's longer or pull it up. How fun is that? That's a super cute idea. Okay, 35, oh, this is the lower edge. So it's kind of, it's not really like a hip measurement actually at all. So I'm not going to even announce it. Okay, now we've got another little collared shirt. This one's called a fold back collar. So you don't have the collar stand in the whole nine. It's almost like a, like a facing, like you've done for a jacket probably before. Another Palmer Plesch. Can we just call this the Palmer Plesch summer collection? Simifitted shirts have raised neckline fold back facings, darts shaped him line and narrow him. They also love a wind machine for this photo shoot. Really nice arm side, maybe a little bit tight, maybe a little bit, but they did get an exceptional fit through the bust, waist and hip. Let's see something standing. Yes, this is the one I think where a lot of people recognize this photo from the past. And I think, again, that has more to do with Palmer Plesch switching brands. So maybe this is like a classic for them. And they wanted to make sure they included it in the new catalog. Like maybe all their McCall stop is gonna be at a print discontinued forever. And they wanted to make sure they had some staples going forward under the buttock mast head, right? I mean, that's a fair thing for them to want to do. So I'm not as mad at it. They did make newer versions other than that photo that we just saw. So this is, remember the other button down shirt that was like very oversized. This is more of like the button down fit that I'm used to. But I mean, this is why they are reprinting this. It has double fisheye darts, beautiful center front facing that turns into this collar, beautiful neckline, the sleeve looks great. It's not too roomy. You can see her arm can bend easily. And then your classic sleeve placket, right? I mean, it just looks really great. You've got double fisheye darts in the back as well. Shoulder darts, I mean, this is a classic other than the neckline not being like your true collar. Everything from that down is like an exceptional button down shirt. So if you didn't get this the first time around under the McCall's name, I would recommend getting it here. I mean, it's just a beautiful, beautiful top. Okay, so shirtings, poplin, crepe machine, seersucker, charmeuse, any of your shirting type fabrics. Four buttons, six buttons, eight buttons depending on your link, eight to 16, 16 to 24 on the size combos, less than two yards, up to about two and a half yards. Finished bus is 36 and a half, up to 51. Beautiful, okay. Here is another fitted shirt. This has got to be another Palmer plush, my goodness. She was like, I'm gonna take 2020 off, but come summer 2021, just look out. I lost count, are we on eight now? Eight Palmer plush patterns? And again, if a lot of them are reprints from old McCall's, I'm still here for that because if they were really popular, people really liked them, they became tried and trues, but can't be sold under McCall's, why not redo them? So people can still get them going forward. It might be a little bit confusing if you see someone online who's made the McCall's version, the number won't be the same, but at least it's still here for the new sewists coming through. I'm not as critical of it as other people, I guess. A lot of them were like, oh my God, it's just, it's the same thing, they're not even new patterns, but they went through a big transition, guys, like all the companies, all the brands, so I get it. I had the business person, I guess, I get it. So me fitted shirts have back yoke, collar, sleeve, and hem length variations. Another beautiful top with beautiful fisheye darts. This one has a, just the stand collar button down. Just a longer length on this one and the sleeve has the sleeve tabs. Here's the short sleeve version. I mean, it looks incredible, right? I mean, if Palmer Plesch is like, we're the fitting people, I mean, this is gonna sell it, right? I think this is the older version that people recognize if they have seen this before. Sorry, I'm so quiet, I'm just gonna take it in. More fisheye darts in the back. Okay, that's what I wanted to see about. Is this a raw seam allowance? Okay, well, here's that. Here's our line drawings. So you've got the scooped hem, short sleeve, long sleeve, patch pockets, optional, the back also has a yoke, I missed that. This has your traditional collar with the stand and then the collar, like a two-piece collar, I guess. This is just the stand with the long sleeve, longer length and slits on the side. And then this is even longer than that, no slits and the scooped hem is back. I think it'd make a really cute dress, to be honest. If you've already got this much length, might as well just take it on downtown to the knee. Take it to the knee. Okay, here is cotton blends, poplin, sateen, crepe, yeah, shirting fabrics. I mean, sateen is a little, I guess if you've got a lightweight sateen, but it's still for summer, I don't know. Six half-inch buttons. Oh, buttons depending on the length, okay. Eight to 16, 16 to 24 on the size range. One and three-quarter yards for that. Was it short-sleeved? Was it that orange one? Okay, yeah, the short-sleeved version is one and three-quarters of yards, so less than two yards to get that super cute, wonderfully fitted top. Two and a quarter, two and an eighth, so yeah, they're all around two yards. Finished bust line is 38 to 52 and a half. Finished hip is 39 and a half to 54. Finished, so, perfect. Okay, so now we have this, another unisex, another button down, another palmware plush. Are we noticing that theme? Semi-fitted shirts have pointed collar back pleated into self-lined yoke with forward shoulder seams and narrow hem. This one's just like a little bit more casual, I guess. You've got the longer shoulder length and you've got more of a notched collar on this one. So, so far, is it three different necklines? Four maybe? This, oh, this one little thing is just the only thing that I see fit-wise. This one also does not have any darting because it is kind of like a looser fit. Probably drapery fabrics on this one maybe? Here's the men's version. Boy, he is young. Oh, maybe these are the older pictures. Yeah, I can see that. Can you see if these were McCall's models versus the Butterick model that we have now? Big difference. Okay, oh, I forgot the line drawings, but that's okay, but they're right here. I like this version with the straight hem that's longer in the back than the front. Sleeveless, I think that's a really cute summer look. Then this is the version on the model. This is the version on the guy, I guess. And this is a little bit longer. Oh, I don't know, did the guy have the scooped hem? I think that is the scooped hem, hard to tell. But I think, yeah, guys mostly wear the shirt tail hem. So yeah, a little bit longer and then somewhere in the middle, I guess, between this and this. Okay, and then the yardage. So, shally, cotton blend, chambray, and crepes. Yeah, I can totally see them recommending lighter weight fabrics for this one, but of course, still all your shirtings work well too. Buttons, and then it's alphanumeric sizing, actually. Small to large and then extra large to 3X. I think that's gonna be their unisex sizing. Two yards, about for all of them, two and a half maybe, depending on the length. Look, they've even got this specific brand of interfacing. It's perfect views, something that's a part of Palmer Plash, they sell that, but they must. Finished measurement at chestline, 42 and a half to 60 and a half. I'm sorry, 40 and a half to 60 and a half. The chestline is the same as the bustline, right? It doesn't change. I guess they just don't think guys would feel very comfortable calling it a bust. Why is it called a bust for women and the chest for guys? Huh, I'm sure there's some historical reference that makes all that, I don't know if it makes sense, but at least it explains it, it gives us some whatever reason. Why isn't it just the same? Okay, so great, button down, got it. Now we have this cutie. Oh, you guys know I love a shirt dress. Mrs. Shirt Dress and Sash, another Palmer Plash, notched collar, semi-fitted bodice, A-line skirt, side pockets and narrow hem. So this looks a lot like the one we just looked at with the little notched collar, they've just taken in the waist a little bit more and then added on a really beautiful, like quarter circle skirt maybe? Yeah, so the darts are back, but it's just the single dart on the bodice into a waist seam, they've added a belt. As well, cute and a madras. These are the older photos, you might recognize them. Super cute, super, super cute, I love it. Okay, so we've got the sleeveless version. The sleeveless with the notched collar is really just such a classic, kind of like a throwback, a little marvellous Mrs. Maisel, I can also see Queen's Gambit references here, but really, really classic summer look. Reminds me of dirty dancing a little bit. And then you have your long-sleeve version, two-piece sleeve, you know, like really great. I mean, for a butteric, not vogue, you're gonna get all the great finishing details that make making your own clothes so worth it. Short-sleeve version here, and then this is the one with the tabs. But everything else, other than the sleeves, are the exact same, oh, and this length, the length of D, and then optional tie belt, which I've kind of moved away from. I mean, it's okay there because it's tied into a knot, but I'm not really loving the tie sash anymore. I was like all about a tie sash a few years ago, but I don't know, kind of just moved away from it a little bit. Cottonblends, chambray, poplin, madras. Yeah, I mean, you could certainly do shirtings. I'm surprised I didn't suggest satin for this. I think that would be an excellent option as well. You can go into your midweights on this for sure. Eight to 16, 16 to 24, yeah, three yards, almost through, oh goodness, dress and sash, four and three, oh, five yards for the long version. Man. Are you sure with the sleeve and all, yeah, maybe, maybe. You know what I'm gonna do with one of these patterns that's like bonkers, seemingly bonkers with the fabric requirements. I'm gonna get my five yards, get the pattern, lay out the pattern pieces, how I would lay them out, not necessarily following the layout instructions and see if it really does take five yards, that's a lot. Okay, measurement at plus line, 36 inches to 50 and a half. And this is pretty fitted and woven, so. Okay, now we've got, this is the skirt and belt. Okay, oh, cute, women's straight skirt with front overlay or princess seaming and belt. Cute, cute, cute, great. I love seeing like someone who obviously has like a big waisted hip difference like I do in a pencil skirt, looking like conservative, you know what I mean? Like it's not too tight, but it's close, you know, it's showing off her figure in all the right ways. I don't necessarily have anywhere to wear that purple version, like that seems very corporate to me or at least, I don't know, like just a little bit more buttoned up. This version though, I would wear this with like a tank top all the time. A little bit more relaxed. Can we have the top too while we're at it? Here is the back, so you just have the single dart, you've got your waistband, it has belt carriers and a self belt, like you make this belt too. And then it has just a little vent in the back. I mean, look at that, that is beautiful, so pretty. Look at this waistband, so, so, so, so good. Not a Palmer plush pattern. So this is the buttock designer going to work, love it. So here are our line drawings, I love A, love, love, love A, B is cute too. I would just have to figure out how to style it. Maybe if I made it in a denim or something, you know, that might make it a little bit more casual where I could wear it to like brunch or something. Oh, the ideas are flowing, okay. I love when I get excited about something like that. Okay, Gabardine, Crape, Lenin, Poplin and lightweight denim, just like I said. Invisible zipper, waistband hook and eye and then a slide buckle. So these are the women's sizes, 18 to 24 and 26 to 32. No real finished garment measurements, so I don't know where I fall in this, but I would be willing to check it out. My concern is that my hip is gonna fit comfortably in there but my waist might be too small for the women's sizes. So it's like, it's not like I'm in between, it's like I'm in between a miss and a woman. Read into that as much as you want. What is that, Britney Spears song? Not a girl but not quite yet a woman or whatever that is. That's how I am in my clothes. Okay, yeah, love it. All right, now we've got, is this, ooh, this must be the top? Pullover tunic and dresses. Okay, very loose fitting, pullover tunic and dresses have shoulder and length variations. Another Palmer plush pattern. Um, you've got this little keyhole design, deep V. It's basically just like a rectangle. I think we could probably self draft this guys. Here's the dress version, snow seeming or anything. I mean, like a cute beach cover up, I guess. Yeah, I don't know, that's not really resonating with me personally. I, if I'm gonna choose between this version or that other batwing one, I'm gonna choose the other one. This though, why didn't they show us this version? That's interesting, you know, to do a contrast like that, that's kind of cool. If you were gonna do a beach cover up, what if you did like this in a solid and this in a sheer or vice versa, that could be kind of fun. Or you could do like sequins and a solid little party top. There's a lot of fun options with this. I'm surprised that they, you know, just let that out. Okay, yardage, knits, crepes, shalys and gauze. So yeah, you can do it out of knits or woven because it's just so loose fitting, but it needs to be kind of lightweight and drapey so it doesn't look like a tent. Extra small to medium and then large to two X. Two yards ish, oh, up to three and five eighths for the dress version. And then finished garment measurements only include these widths and lengths. Okay, closing out with three pairs of pants, no side seam, shorts, capris and pants. Again, Palmer Flesh. So I know you guys are thinking, oh, Lindsay, you are always saying you can't get pants to fit, maybe try Palmer Flesh. I have tried Palmer Flesh in the past. It's more of like a system that you have to kind of understand. That has to make sense for your brain. Basically what it is, is there are lines on the pattern pieces that correspond with instructions in the instruction booklet for full seat adjustment, belly adjustments. You know what I mean? So they'll go over some common things. I think they even give those like illustrations to show if it fits like this on your muslin, you need to take it in here or there. And then there's lines on the pattern pieces showing you where to cut to make those alterations the correct way. So it's not like revolutionary in terms of fitting, but it does provide a lot of help and information. So, all right, semi-fitted pants, capris and shorts have no side seams and have invisible zipper, only one main pattern piece for each view. So the pattern piece, it's like you've made leggings where it's just wraps around. Same concept here. These are the older photos. Yeah, let's see what the fabric is that they recommend. I think that makes a big difference. Great, gabardine, which is kind of like a suiting, I guess. Ponty knit and then jersey. Yeah, I think it has to have a little bit of some kind of stretch element to it. Satine maybe would be another good option, but you want it to hang straight from your body but still be comfortable through here. So just some things to consider with a no side seam pattern. All sizes in one envelope, love it, six to 22 on that. And then one and a quarter yards for the shorts up to two and a half yards. Hip line measurement, 36 up to 49 and a half. So I actually barely fit into these depending on the ease at the hip. I'm more of like a 24, which is just outside the size range here. So even though they're all in one pattern, well, I would rather them all be in one pattern still, even if I'm a little bit outside the range. At least I'm not having to combine two different pattern pieces together. Okay, Mrs. Women tapered pants, Palmer plush again. This is the old photo. I'm sure you guys recognize it. Sorry, honey, here's somebody in the hallway. Semi-fitted tapered pants have waistband, side front pockets, mock fly, and zipper. So these are gonna be like your classic trouser. The waistband actually sits low. This is like on your hip. You've got the dart and then the slash pocket, which I don't love. For her, it looks great because she doesn't really have a hip. For me, getting these to lay flat is very difficult, no matter what fitting method I'm using. This also does look a little bit long. So that makes me think that maybe this was intended to sit higher up here, but the waistband was too big for her, so they just pulled them down a little bit to kind of fudge the fit. Yeah, see how much higher hers are sitting? Much better. But you can see this does not lay perfectly flat. You can also see that like, I mean, this is very billowy through her tummy. And this is the hard thing about pants because when you have a large waist to hip difference, what happens through here is so specific to your body. And some women have belly pooches. Some women have very, very flat bellies. They just, you know, there's just a big difference between these two numbers. So pants are just tough. And as often as I can illustrate that even the professionals have a tough time with it, that helps me feel better. I think that probably helps you guys feel better. It's a process. All right, so, yep, there's our line drawing. I think that they're the same exact pant on these two women. They're just different size ranges. So we've got all sizes in one envelope from eight. So the misses range all the way up to the women's range 24. So up to two and a half yards. Measurement at hip line on this one goes up to 52. So I fit into these. So maybe worth trying, but I also don't really know that I'm wearing like a tapered trouser like this anywhere, ever. Maybe it would depend on the fabric. So that's the thing, you know, cause she's rebranding. Well, I mean, she is kind of, because she switched pattern houses and is repurposing a lot of this old stuff, the styling speaking of which is a little dated. I mean, a lot of these were 10 years or more older. So the way people wear jeans now is not necessarily how they wore them before, but they thought it was worth it to give home sewists a classic jean pattern. And so here we are, even though nowadays they're much higher rise, kind of looser fitting, but it is a very classic jean look. And I imagine jeans will, you know, come back around where we're doing skinnies again, but well, I'm never not doing skinnies, but you know what I mean. Women's straight leg or boot cut jeans, straight leg or boot cut below waist jeans have side front pockets with inside pocket. What? Side front pockets with inside pocket. Side, I don't even know what that means. Does that just mean like your little jeans pocket? Front fly zipper closure, back yoke, back pockets, waistband with button and buttonhole closure, belt carriers, narrow hem finishing on jean legs, tips for how to fit a flat derriere and eliminate baggy pants. How to fit a flat derriere? What about a not flat derriere? Huh. Okay. Well, first of all, this is a disaster. Like, how did this even, what? That's terrible. This is way too low. Her crotch line is like somewhere up here. That's something else. Okay. Look at that. These are gonna be a no for me dog. Considering the ones that we just saw, who was at simplicity, that came out with those amazing looking jeans in the women's sizes and everything, this should have been scrapped. This is a bad idea. Bad idea, especially considering we've got so many great options in Indie Now for jeans, like they should have moved on from this. I don't know. Maybe they're emotionally tied to them or something. That's bad. All right. Denim, Poplin. And I wanna also illustrate that I'm only being super critical of them like this because it is Palmar Plush. If this were just like an Indie pattern designer or maybe McCalls, I would be like, yeah, that's pretty bad. You guys need to look out for the rides. But because it's Palmar Plush, they need to be looking a lot better than this. If you're trying to sell me on, you know how to fit patterns, this ain't it. Those button down shirts though, totally, totally. So this does have the Mrs. Anne women. So eight to 24. So those same hip line measurements as before. And then here's your fabric requirements. Jeans A, jeans B. Two and three eighths versus two and a half. What do we see the difference? Oh, flare or straight? Yeah, okay. I'm sorry, straight leg or boot clip. Okay. All right. Well, I didn't really know what to expect coming into this because like I said, I heard so many criticisms of this just being like, you know, they just repeated a whole bunch of patterns because of COVID, you know, they, nobody's working. But I don't think that's it. I really genuinely think that you're trying to find the look book. I genuinely think that Palmer Plush went through something and this is the transition. This is them getting everything kind of on the same level, same playing field. You know, there had to be some time when they would reemerge and this is how they've done it. So I get it, I get it as a business decision. Wow, look at this. Patty Palmer, instructions written by Patty and featuring her proven tissue fitting method, fashion that fits real people. Yeah. If you can get into her system, if it's how your brain works, I really do think that you will never look back on fitting. It's just, you know, some people are very analytical. A lot of us tend to be very creative and how you find the balance between those two things. But yeah, this is definitely the Palmer Plush collection for Butterick. I still think there's some really great patterns in here, some that I really, really love. I'm so interested to hear what you think, if you think that maybe I'm giving them too much of a pass and maybe Palmer Plush should have come up with all new patterns for their kind of rebirth into the Butterick house. You know, I'm curious, but that's it. That's the end of the book. Oh no, I forgot this one. Okay, sorry. So yeah, there are some really cute ones. I'll be picking them up at the next sale for sure. But let me know, let me know what you guys think. I can't wait to hear from you all. That's gonna do it for me today. Thank you so much for watching and I will see you all very soon. Bye.