 Hello. Hello. Welcome back today. Just getting some things set up here when we get ready. Hey, Raceroni, Asian love potato, Joe Henke, and legendary K4. Thank you for showing up and saying hey in the chat this morning. You can start a little earlier than normal today. And go ahead and switch over. I've been working on some things at the shop down here, most notably the lighting, installed a couple of new light bulbs, and there was something I was actually planning on showing you. And I thought it had it right here in front of me, but I apparently moved it because I wanted to show you something that I found. So hang on. Now here's one of them. So check this thing out. I'll put you on the overhead cam so you can look at it. So this is what we may call an old fashioned, what would you call it? Fire hazard? Probably that I have here. Just making sure that that camera is going to be turned on. Yep, there we go. Let's check this out. This is it. When I moved into this house, this is my grandfather's old house, and I've been renting it for a while. Hey, Lucas. And one of the things that I had in all my light sockets down here in the basement were these old contraptions, which you certainly would never find one of these in a store anymore. Because just look at how you plug this into the light socket, and then it gives you these ungrounded 120 volt or 125 volt 660 watt plug ins on the side of this. And then you still put your light bulb here, and then you could use the light bulb, you know, from this, turn it on and off, but keep the power rolling through these plugs. So I finally just have removed all these and installed just some LED lights, which are actually really bright and seem to be looking pretty good so far for the start. I just thought I'd show you these interesting contraptions. You'll never see these nasty little things again, and hopefully you won't because these would be easy to overload and be unsafe, no grounding there, depending on what you're trying to do. I mean, you could plug the wrong thing into there, cause a house fire. So there's our little retro random tech here for the day. And so, hey, let's see who we've got here. We've got Lucas Campos. Campos, I think that's right. Abe's Game and Skates, good to see you again. Roy Driver, thank you for coming. JJ. Hey, thanks. Thanks from all over the world. We got Roy coming from Australia. JJ is in the Netherlands. That's the thing about this random time I stream is there's always a chance at other people in different time zones and all over the world will at least have a chance to tune in. Thanks for dropping by. If you guys enjoy the streams, do me a favor, hit the like button. That way we can expand the reach and the audience size here eventually, you know, get some more CRT fanatics with the opportunity to see what we're working on here. So what we have back today is we're still working on our PVM 14L2. This is from yesterday's stream. And there we go. Howdy Tyson 505. So yesterday in the stream, we opened it up and took out the chassis and this other board, the input board, and we serviced them with a cap kit, pretty small cap kit, only 12 caps, but it was, you know, not the easiest cap kit to work with. But that's done. I already went ahead off camera and just last night I took some time, cleaned out the inside of here where the tube is and everything. I already cleaned it and then reinstalled everything. The last thing, if you remember, we didn't have time to finish up this, which would normally be on the back there. This is our neck board. So that's what we're going to be doing most of the work on today. Hello, One Phoenix Fire from South Africa. Thank you. Thank you for coming. And again, so that's what we're going to work on. First off, is we need to finish working on this little board here, the neck board, and we'll get it serviced. We'll get it cleaned back on the tube and we'll test it. Hopefully everything will go well. And then once that's done, we can do the more interesting and fun thing later on, which will be do calibrate it. I do have my in-laws, well, my mother-in-law, she's coming to visit and she'll be here in about two hours time. So as usual, I don't have a time limit, but it's okay. I actually like my mother-in-law. She's a very sweet lady. So that's always a blessing, you know. Mainly, our big concern with our seaboard will be solder integrity, honestly, especially on this board. We talked about it a little bit yesterday and this doesn't have really the best solder. There was something about the way they were mixed in solder, I feel like, in the mid and early 2000s that I don't know whether they were trying to play with some different ingredients, but we seem to be running into an issue where the solder from this time period on electronics and televisions and monitors seems to be more questionable than even the capacitors. If you just take a look at these capacitors, I mean, these are beautiful capacitors on this. Check them out. They are 250 volt, 47 microfarad, and these are like the highest quality Nishikans that were made back in the early and mid 2000s. They still make these that look like this mostly. And so we have those two capacitors right there. Yeah, they're trying to switch to lead free. And sometimes if you go all lead free, it really is a pain. Hey, Sterling, it's showing up today, man. Jeff, Lang, thank you for coming in. We have one other capacitor here, but it's also a nice capacitor if you just looked at it. I mean, it's 85 degrees. This one's a common one. So it's, but if you just look at let me see, I believe I have like a neckboard handy from another Sony, a different time period. All right, here's a fun. Here's a fun comparison, right? So this is the neckboard from this 14L2. Again, you manufactured right in the middle of 2000s. This is a board from a 1340 series, I believe 42. I'm not completely sure it could be a 43, but I believe it's the 42 somewhere around there. It's definitely a board that would have been made 10 years before this board. Neither have been serviced, but it's probably going to be difficult to see on the camera. But I'll try to see if I can show you this is the this is the older board. Just look at the way the solder, like on the neck, the tube still glossy a little bit. I mean, without even being cleaned, like you could see dust and if I cleaned it, it would look really nice. And these are these boards are extremely durable with any of this more modern one. And you'll just notice the solder look how much it has a different weird sheen to it's definitely a different chemical composition. And I'm trying to get in there and let you see, maybe you see how it starts to look a little dull like wearing out. I don't know, maybe it's just me. And it's hard to see the difference. I don't know if I can get any of these points. Anyway, the older boards look more durable to me. So what we're going to do is we're going to reflow the solder on these transistors or ICs. And then we'll do again the CRT socket, all these components down in here, anything that's really hot, there's resistors, these big resistors right here will reflow pretty much I mean almost everything. And we'll just do that and we'll see how this solder reacts as we do that. Right now, that would be a good idea. Maybe I can get a cheap microscopic or I need I've been thinking about that adding sterling was saying you can see them good under a microscope, maybe we can add a USB microscope to the show coming soon. And then we can take a better look at what you're actually talking about under the microscope, that would be a fun, fun thing to do. So great idea. I actually don't own one of those yet. So if anyone has a recommendation, you can send it to me on Twitter or something, some other DM, because you're not allowed to post links apparently in like chats for YouTube normally. So yeah, it just doesn't mix, of course, as well. But you know, you're getting fresh solder in there. Yeah, send me a link of what you've been using if you like it sterling, I'll try it out. You don't want to hold down your heat too long on this board, specifically like this, this part, because if you do, obviously, that heat's going to transfer into that plastic area and you can actually melt that CRT socket, the plastic on there, if you just sit here and, you know, concentrate on trying to free flow the solder to where it's beautiful. Again, we just want to make sure it's got a good connection and a good fresh layer of solder on it. Start mixing it, you'll see you'll hear it like kind of sound like a Rice Krispies cereal when it gets in the milk. It starts to crackle and pop. I mean, remixing that solder. Now, if this was like, I mean, you could say you should go further and even just remove this old solder, but that would be that would be a lot more work. I don't think that's always necessary. Most of that stuff right there is reflowed all the points there. You can move up towards this part of the board. Let's see. We can't get a little closer here. I'm going to, while I do this, let's see if I can't, I can't get some decent background, just very light background music, because there's not a, I'm not going to do it too loud. This iron is my, some of my iron is running at right now is pretty much 750. I know that tends to be hot most of the time. That's pretty much a good temperature though. I don't burn things with this iron at 750. And it seems to do the job 99% of the time. 750 Fahrenheit. And here you go. I'll give you a quick look at the solder setup. All right. I hope that will work. Do you see that right there? I know it's sideways and looks silly, but that is the FX 951. It's grounded. It's got this wonderful comfortable wand and programmable and everything nice and safe. And this is what I use. It goes into sleep mode when you put it down, and it comes right back to life. So that's, I bought that one finally upgraded from the cheap old HACCO, which I still have here because it's handy to use on the road, I'd say, and like in other situations when I'm traveling or need something up in another location, I use the older smaller one, the like triple 8D or whatever it is, the one that's like 90 bucks. I use that one for a long time. And if you run that, you get used to your temperatures, keep that clean, get the right tips on there. And you can run that one at 700 to 750 and do just about anything. This one just, I don't know. I love the way it feels. It works. Yeah, I tend to, it's like, I think it's just programmed here to come at 750. And I don't even know. Okay. Well, like it's got, you've got to get a certain way. I can't remember how to, now I'm going to mess it all up, probably. Anyway, it's not even that easy to turn down the temperature. That's the another thing. Yeah, when you're working on like this kind of, this kind of equipment, it pays like the, when you're working on boards, you want to keep them nice. And you don't want to ever burn anything. Getting the right tools can be crucial. Now I know people can do just as good a work, of course, like with the setup that Voltar has and recommends, but I've actually seen like a higher end one than this that the guy iFix Retro uses. And it's a newer one. And it looks really nice. But again, these are like, then you're getting into, because this one's not cheap. I can't remember how much it is. You can look it up online. But once you go past this one, you're getting up into like the four, four digit solder stations, like $1,000 of above for stuff. James. James said 750 is speed running. It's a good one. Hey, Don. Don Honk. Yeah. Plus it's nice. If you like the tools and you have, for me, I have to have good tools. I mean, it's part of this business. So it benefits me to have good tools also. I don't really care about some things to reflow solder on. And sometimes I accidentally do that and it falls out. Like there's a couple test points usually on these boards, maybe not on this one. But the other thing you have to watch are these connectors and any of the like ground connectors here. Jeff asked if this one will be for sale potentially. There's a guy on Patreon who basically has first dibs on it. And so if he says no, then I will list it on Patreon. But this person has to first say at it because they've been kind of waiting and asked about it. But generally speaking, I will have like one of these style PVMs available every month on there. Sometimes people ask ahead of time and they just reserve them. Other times I'll have a couple months. Like last month, I had actually two available at once that were sitting there. Nobody bought them for a couple weeks. And then the first one sold and I think the second one's. It's got somebody who said they're buying it. If they pick it up Friday, it'll be sold. And those are both the ones we did on stream before this one. It was a 14M2MDU and a 14M2U. And if you ever want to go back and watch any of those episodes and see those monitors, those live streams are still up. If you just go to the live tab on the channel, Retro Tech on YouTube, you can find those and watch those playbacks if you're interested. And either of those CRTs, both of them had live streams done on them. Same thing with this one. And a little snap crackle pop right there. And so I don't know, what have you guys been thinking? I've really been enjoying coming in and kind of coming in and kind of just doing this on the stream. Stirling, actually there was nothing officially wrong with this CRT to begin with. What I've been doing is just preventative maintenance. There's this kit that I have here. So there's nothing wrong with it. This is like, this is the ideal restoration really, most of the time. I find a monitor that's in good shape and I go through and service it with these cap kits and also do things like reflow the solder, check out the rest of the board. Just make sure that it's good, not only now, but I can try to prevent something really from happening at least in the next five to 10 years for the most part, if you use it safely. And there's certain things obviously I can't control, but I can give these the best chance to go on and lead productive lives after they leave my shop. So I hope that explains it a little bit better. Like the vast majority of the work I do is doing this kind of stuff where I go in and work for hours on restoring boards in this fashion and the fashion that you've seen on the other episodes where just getting ready to reuse and it's more economical to do that than try to, if you're bringing a CRT and you don't know what's wrong with it, which I have some episodes coming up about that. Some of those times those things are unsavable, or not unsavable, but it's like all of a sudden they become parts monitors. I can't tell you how many of the best CRTs in the world I have up in the boneyard right now that are just they don't have enough tubes for them. We don't have tubes anymore. We can't find the tubes to replace them with. All right, that's all. This one is a save on pack kit. Hey, thanks, race. I'm glad you've been doing it. I mean, this is the kind of thing I do. I mean, you know, if you go back and watch the videos, you'll see, I mean, this one was one I bought on eBay and imported. I think it's like the videos entitled, oops, sorry, the videos titled like the last CRT, Sony made or the last PVM or something, the last pro CRT, PVM that they made. So this would be something, these caps should be good. You should not have to do this for another 10 years, probably not with these parts. If you had some other issue, there's still obviously a lot of things that could happen from a voltage short, another part going bad. But these are the ones that most of this information is coming from Save On Pat and other Sony texts and data like documentation, rumors, common sense, I don't know, because there's a lot of times where I'll change some of his, his kits to add more capacitors to the kit, possibly sometimes. Definitely don't want. No, I always end up with that. What's Jeff asked what CRTs I personally use? Well, I always swap that up. I try to use the ones that I'm working on. I try to just test them. That keeps it fun for me. The ones I do have in my like living room area or my, you know, hangout area and the other side here, I have a, let's see, what have I got in there? I've got a JVC D series 20 inch that was a donation of an awesome guy who's been a supporter of the channel for a long time in Romere and he donated it and I really like it. I got an N64 hooked up in there most of the time on that and then I would throw other retro consoles on that pretty easily if I need to. And then I've got my, right next to that, I have my, it's got like a RCA too, or yeah, just a standard RCA style television too, but it's a 27 inch arcade monitor in my Neo Geo in the S machine. So that's in there also. And I use that. I use that one probably the most of any CRT in there. And then I have a Sony GDM C five 20, which is basically the four by three PC monitor that it, that's the PC monitor version or four by three version of the FW 900 because I don't have a working FW 900. I don't have that, but I do have a, the other one is really nice. That's probably my favorite underdog CRT is that one. And then back here in storage, I have tons of 14 inch CRTs that I pull out and use from time to time, depending on what I'm doing. I have a 14 inch PVM that that's once I service them, I rotate them out on that medical cart, which people have seen. No, I do still have that, but I need to do a couple of more tests, but there's there's like a 95% chance that that Sony FW 900 has a bad two minute that I have. So I don't have it. It's not going to be working. But don't worry, because I'm supposed to have a FW 900 coming to the shop soon that does work, just getting it's getting a preventive maintenance done like this. Now this, this one isn't as bad. Sometimes you get in here and a monitor is still working. And they, they look way worse. You might have bad caps. You might have dirt build up. But thanks for the questions. Hey, PO 17, welcome. Oh, no. Yeah, not GVM. GDM. Yeah. Sorry if it sounded like that. It's a GDM. So that's in there. And I have a dreamcast of course hooked up to that. And what else is hooked up to it? The GBS control all or yeah, the GBS all in one converter. So that's in there. And then the big TV in that room is an early 2007 I want to say an early Hitachi 1080p plasma. And I actually bought that brand new paid like three grand for that thing back in 2007. And it's, it's, it's an awesome TV. It does so many different things because it's still got a lot of analog support, low lag, very great screen. I've taken care of it. So it's, it's lasted a long time. That's, that's it for the ones that stay there all the time. Anything else comes and goes. I don't really have other things in there besides that. I do have some other monitors, CRTs I want to get and incorporate into the bigger setups, but the big setup, but oh man, it's every time. That's like, I got a 27 inch, I got off the curb that I absolutely love. It's old wood grain RCA. And I'd love to get it down here, but I don't want to think about moving it back and forth up and down the stairs. And I've just been doing work on all these other smaller monitors to keep myself really from having to do it. Okay. So there's really no, no harm in again, touching up a lot of this. It's like the one capacitor right here we'll be pulling. I don't, there's some parts sometimes listed on these cap kits and they're not actually on the board. So I was telling everybody the last, I don't know, stream or two about going to house auctions. I mentioned this, it might have been two streams ago. I'm going to a lot of these home auctions, you know, a lot of times they're just absolute filthy, terrible looking homes. But sometimes there's some really cool houses, of course. And just like anything, you hope you're going to find a deal, which it's hard to tell because it's, I don't know if anybody's familiar with the movie, The Money Pit. Well, that's an old Tom Hanks movie. Anyway, that's the situation I'm afraid of with these houses. Like this one I'm looking at, the auction ends tomorrow. The house is just in the most amazing part of the city I live in and beautiful style old home, but it literally, I mean, it needs a ton of work. You could live in it in its current state, right? But I don't know. I don't know. And then it's on auction. So like at the last minute, somebody will come in and it'll go up $100,000 or more. I think it's at about $200,000 right now. But I've been going to a lot of these auctions just to see, I'm actually doing that more than just going to look into regular real estate. And from what I can tell, most of the time, things do not necessarily sell for less at auction. I've seen sometimes where a piece of property sells for more at an auction quite often. It's crazy, right? You're like, if this was at the normal market, it wouldn't sell for that much. People get in these bidding frenzies. Really does happen. So what would that be? You think that would make an interesting concept for like a YouTube channel? Property tours like that, and then go into the auction or seeing how much the property sells for. I didn't know if that would be anything that anybody would think was cooler if it's just me. Oh yeah. Yeah, it's really hard all over. Hard all over at a fun real estate right now. Yeah, there's some great stuff in the money pit. If you've not seen that movie, do yourself a favor and see it. But most people probably have seen it. If you haven't seen it in a while, it's worth a good rewatch. But that's kind of, I could just see you buy a house for three. Probably end up being like $400,000 for this place is what I'm thinking. Maybe it might even go like four or like, here's the way this works. Most of these auctions you, whatever the final price is, you have to know how this works. Most of the time, you're having to pay 10% buyer's fee to the auctioneer. So if you win the auction, you don't just pay your winning bid, you pay that bid and you pay 10% to the auctioneer. So when that house sells for $400,000 on the auction block, it actually sells for $440,000 because you have to pay 10,000 or 10% sorry $40,000 to the auction. Well, company. Okay, so you've done that. But the thing is, when you buy a property at auction, you're buying it as is. So your auction, the only, here's the only way out you've got. If you win the auction, and for whatever reason you don't close, you get like, it depends. Some of these will give you 45 days. Some will give you up to 60 days to close. What you do is, if you win the auction, you put $10,000 and you pay that right away within the first 24 hours of winning the auction. And then you have the close time to close it, however many days that is. The only thing you can do is you can lose that 10 grand, right? You can say, I'm pulling out of this deal and you lose that 10 grand that you paid literally just throw it away. And then you lose the property. Okay. So it's kind of high stakes. If you're trying to get like a loan on it, it adds a layer of things because you're like the house I looked at it had like bees in the wall, you know, things that you just, that beehive in one of the walls, like it's, it's, there hadn't been people in these houses for a while. You know, half the house hadn't been lived in. They're big houses, like don't get me wrong. So, um, but you're not going to get a normal mortgage. I mean, you have to put down a bunch of cash with it probably plus interest rates are such trash right now. So they probably will be for a while. So I'm not relying on that to go down anytime soon. Again, it's more like trying to just wait out the housing prices, which I don't know if that's even going to make any difference. Or is it just wait till you have a very large amount of money? So you're not, you're not borrowing it as much. I think that's about the best thing to do right now. Anyway, that's just like some fun things I've been looking at. I think it's always interesting to go and just look at some of these houses that are in unbelievably, you used to, like when I bought my first house, which again, I'm running where I'm at now, but when I bought my first house, I remember going and being so nitpicky and like only when I bought like a house that was brand new because I didn't want to deal with anything. And now I'm like looking at things the exact opposite way. I want to find something that's a decent bargain that's got so much potential that I could go in and like invest into and hopefully turn into something that's either beautiful or something I really want to live in. But then, I don't know, such a big purchase, you know, and to think about going into that amount of debt again, even though it is a home debt always, always makes my anxiety go up, which I think is normal. Anytime you think about taking on large amounts of debt, especially for like the time period, even if you do a preferred mortgage that's still 15 years that you're, you know, guaranteed to pay into something. It's just we have the strange phenomenon in our generation where property continues to go up in value. Like the house I bought that I used to live in where you can go back and watch the original episodes of retro attack where everything started. I bought that house and lived in it for like 13 years, maybe 14. And the house price doubled, you know, the value. And then I don't know how much it's gone up since then. That's true. It has. That was a couple of years ago when I sold it in some of these markets. The housing prices are not going down. And I can tell you why. It's because there's not enough inventory. There's not enough people selling homes right now because they don't, you know, people are just selling their home right now because they have a low interest rate. They don't, they can't go get a new loan for cheaper. So they're not going to move. They're going to stay in their house for longer periods of time. So there's less just movement like that. There's less buyers to higher interest rates and so forth. So it's not, it's the, at the same time, the problem is these certain homes go in the market and they're selling immediately now. Over asking price again. They said it's what happening in my area because I will go look at houses. I'll call realtors when they come on the market and I've constantly been getting told that when it does happen, you can check it yourself on Zillow and these other websites that they're getting 10% above asking price even still. And then I wonder, you know, like you used to feel like it was such a huge deal to own a home and now the way things are, I don't know, things feel less obtainable and it's like at least in certain areas. And now I'm wondering if just moving a little bit into the country, isn't the right move to if I need to get a house right away or bigger place or something. Because I've found some really nice houses and things outside of the big city, which is not a big city, but the city area I live in, excuse me, just have some allergies, that are still reasonably priced. Of course, the thing about that is you buy it and you're not going to make your money back. It's hard to think of certain ways to make your money back off that property. You make, you know, there's a reason it doesn't sell as fast, the prices are lower. And so you know that you're not, you're not in like the hot area. Like again, it has to be a hot market kind of or place people want to move to or have a reason to move to. There's a bunch of small towns in Virginia that are like out of the way. And there's towns there where there's, you know, homes have been there a long time, but there's no like business there to really support. People stay in there too much or like you would, you would drive from another area that you worked at to live there. Some people don't want to do that. But yeah, I found another piece of property, small lot. It's on like a historic highway, right? Runs parallel to the interstate. One of the big interstates and it is on a river. Now it's got, you know, the backyard is not really a backyard. It's like a cliff almost towards this river, but it has a little front yard and it's in one of these old school towns. But the darn that and it's a 2000 square foot house and needs some work, but it was only, I mean, it's like 200,000 dollars. And I'm just thinking that sounds almost too good to be true for 2023. So I don't know. I'm going to go check it out in person. It's been on the market for a long time. But again, I think it's because it's in one of these little towns that people are not, there's no like, like it's in between the tourist places, right? There's no real tourist attraction in these towns. There's no reason unless you're from there to really go there. It's an interesting concept. I mean, unless you're like a farmer or have like a farm, there is, there are some farm businesses in there. So that's, that's a, but that's not a huge, you know, draw. It's not like there's any shopping or anything you can do, maybe antique shopping. All right. That looks pretty good. All right, guys, sorry to go off on that silly tangent for a little bit on real estate and whatever. But that should be good for the re sought reflowing that solder. There's one capacitor we're going to pull excite and change. I've already reclaimed all my tools last night, too. We didn't have to worry about that. We'll pull this exchange this capacitor and then clean this board because I still, you know, it doesn't look too bad, but there is some flux residue. See how you get that like golden brownish stuff. You can see it more on the white around there. So we're going to remove this little guy. This is a 50 volt 100 C 705. Thankfully, this board is a little bit nicer to work on than the other board we had yesterday. They just fell right out. Okay, this is the capacitor. I mean, it's probably fine, but it is 85 degree capacitor. So we're going to upgrade that and install a 105 degree capacitor here. And if you look at these other two, see, I don't actually have these here and they're not even when I ordered the kit, right? It came with these parts. So the one I just pulled is C 705, which is down here. But it says 726 and 733. But if I look over here, they don't even have like we don't have those capacitors on this board. There's just 705. Now there are 713 and 717. And those are not on that list. So I guess it's one of those things where it doesn't have all the parts and maybe there's earlier revisions. It's, but these are those big capacitors. So they're not in the kit. We're really just changing the one capacitor today on here. And let's just use our fun tool here for it. We'll give our, we'll add some hip action, increase the hip size of our capacitor here. Just make sure you put it in the right way. That's what she said. And we'll be able to just take that, set my iron on it, let it get warmed up. Take my left hand, do that little number, hold it in place. There we go. Wonderful. Let's get that plus side cleaned up. There we go. Oh, goodness. There we go. See when you, I like that little tool because it's just, it makes it look cool, right? Give this, give our parts a little bit of leg action right there for the hole. You know, you can do the other direction if you need to, but that's it. Turn off this equipment, get it out of the way and we can get some, we can pour some alcohol, but not the drinking type because it's only Tuesday. Let's see here, we need to get the brush kit and alcohol. Brush kit, alcohol, and it went on a couple of wipes of bounty. So, male, not really mounting the knockoff stuff, you know. All right. Things are here. We are going to bust out Mr. Minion brush for those of you who are return viewers. You will remember Mr. Minion. He gets in all the deep crevices. For the most part, the first thing I'm going to do is just kind of douse some of this board in this isopropyl alcohol and then take Mr. Minion here and slam freely brush over this. Let the alcohol kind of work in there and then alcohol then rubs, runs off the edge down here, of course, and onto our paper towel and then I'll show you why that really is even significant at all here in a second. So, then I can take this, which you see looks still pretty clean. I like to take that out, that alcohol soaked towel, flip it over, let Mr. Minion rub the board through the towel and just like that, Bob is getting the job done or Kevin, whichever Minion is your favorite. Look at that. See that shading? Look at that. That's just this one area. Look at the coloring there. You got a nice yellow shade of of flux and this will look powdery in a minute, but for the most part, that looks pretty good. And I'll show you how we'll touch all this up at the end here. Same thing over here. Maybe we'll, we should have done is use the other paper towels since we have two of them and we'll just work our way down, right? That's what we got to do because that stuff's traveling down. So we'll start up these places we haven't gotten yet and we are getting some of that on our brush. It's okay. Continue to paint some happy little alcohol on there. Do the same procedure over here. Might be a little trickier, but I have to punch on some holes and towels. That's okay. Yes, we yes. This is not the, I don't know, I mean, I'd love to hear what other people do for cleaning too, but there's something that I just started doing years ago. And I don't know that there's probably, like I've tried other cleaners that are more effective at cleaning flux, but the problem with them is, wow, they really, I mean, my fingers look bad and hands. I think we had a conversation. My hands look bad enough as it is. We've talked about that before without having to add extra insults and injury by using those harsh chemicals, because those really eat up your skin. So it's kind of a double-edged sword if you use it. Coming on in one hour. That's okay. So now that this is dried, I'm taking my other brush, my safe brush. Just give that a good rub. Make sure everything's nice and dry and polished pretty much. It's kind of what we're doing. Giving that old shoe shine. Hey, good rhythm. When you get the blues, come on, get rhythm. When you get the blues, it only takes a dime, just a nickel of shoe. It does a million dollars worth of good for you. Get rhythm. When you get the blues. Anybody notice that song? Right, terrible rendition. It's good old Johnny Cash, the man in black, sang that song back in 1960 something, I think. I don't know. Looking good. Looking good. Let me get my vac. I get some opposite of that. Can I put the music back on? Yeah, it's probably fine. Let me go pull up the playlist here and see what we got. See, I need to go and just download even more. I'm going to put a big playlist on here and then we'll just hit the randomizer. Again, it's all just background music. Okay. This one's called endless winter, so I'm guessing it's jazz. Johnny Cash is the legend. He was from my hometown. Right. Well, not here, this hometown that I moved back to. The hometown I lived in in Tennessee, a place called Hendersonville. He lived right there in the lake and lived in the lake and he passed away, sold his property to the Bee Gees, one of the Bee Gees and be damned if that Bee Gees didn't burn the house down. So now no one ever and never rebuilt it. So it's just like a tomb or mausoleum in the remembrance of Johnny Cash. This house used to live in. It was beautiful in the lake and fire insurance claim and all of a sudden there was no more Johnny Cash's house. All right. Let me do that a couple more times. Oh, sorry about that. I probably should have turned the microphone off before I did that. Can save you guys some hearing. All right. I think we're ready to reinstall this board just about. There's this piece of plastic that can go back over top of our board here. Take yet another brush and make sure that everything's good. Last visual inspection of everything. Sure. Yep. Everything's installed correctly. And just look at and make sure that we didn't bridge anything accidentally. Everything is looking good. Right. Hey, still feel a little bit of alcohol coming out of it. So I'm going to try. Let me let me turn down my microphone. The microphone's got a filter on it that shouldn't pick up sounds like that. So that's maybe why I know why you're not hearing it. Jeff, that's pretty interesting. So if you're not hearing it, then that filters actually kind of working. Maybe if I talk at the same time as the filters going, it will. So good news is we're about to finally plug this thing in. Thanks everybody for showing up today. If you're coming in late or if you're wondering what we're doing, we're working on the neck board, finishing it up from a Sony PBM restoration. And it's a 14L2 PBM. And we've already, the funny thing is, is we've already serviced the main deflection board and power areas. We do not know. We do not know if we did everything right, because I mean, I haven't tested all this stuff. So that's it for the capacitance and the board rework. So now we can actually get to the reinstalling it and look at the calibration stuff. This is actually an interesting monitor. It's got a unique calibration system that is, it mirrors more of the BVM style. You could not, you have to make sure things are compatible. They're wobble. I mean, I'm not sure there's probably some that are compatible, but most of the time no. You can use PBM boards between PBMs. All right, let me just remove some stuff out of the way. So we don't have an accident. And we'll give this board a little more dry out and put away the brush, the minion brush, and put away our alcohol. It wasn't a very big cleanup. But I do think I made that small little job probably as long as possible. I've not worked on any SSMs, I don't think. Most of the stuff I've been working on is, you know, the pretty common television sets. I've had the fun working on different things that are not just PBMs. And I know probably a bunch of you've noticed that there's the channel kind of goes through a metamorphosis a little bit, where we're focusing on just more than, you know, being worried about getting out videos all the time. And rather than doing that, I'm enjoying streaming on what I'm actually working on, which is more stuff like this, and actually been pretty good mix up of things we've been able to work on. If you go back in the last couple of months as we've been doing this stream, and then when there's something even cooler, then I can make a video and try to make it a really good video like the last one I keep referring to the Toshiba one. And I mean, I will admit, it's, when I do that, I don't have the time to put out like constant videos that are productions. But at the same time, I'm getting to interact with everybody, which I love. And the good videos that come out are doing well. So I'm happy with the way it's actually been going with it. But that's the way, you know, gives me an opportunity to, when I do see these CRTs that I want to work on, I would love to work on an IR2 or an LR2. I've got some ideas. It's a pretty easy neck board to connect here. Make sure that my microphone's at least facing me. And it's just that simple. There's a neck screw in the neck right here. So yeah, I got to screw that a little bit. It's just that simple. Reinstall the neck board. And I've already gone ahead and hooked up just about everything I need here. Yeah. And I mean, it does save when doing these videos. I'm not, I mean, I'm not gonna basically deny this. I'm not the world's best video editor. I haven't had any real training on that, besides what I've watched on YouTube videos, tutorials from people I know and respect what they've done and their work. But most of that stuff is something I was never even considering doing. So you're right. It is, when you get to have a show like this, it's much more interesting. So hopefully we'll keep growing the audience. Thanks for keeping having more fun. I love when there's more interaction. And when everybody is, you know, talking and stuff, but tweening each other is even cooler too. Right. We're gonna plug it in. Plug it in first, right? We're using Super Nintendo still, at least for calibration stuff. Right now, everything should do it. Look around here and give our camera a little space and give it the blow up test, right? Now, camera freeze here real quick. Just so you can tell, look how safety conscious I am. I have a nice, unused, perfectly good fire extinguisher right here in case something happens. That's not intentional, but there's actually, look at this, a second fire extinguisher that's twice as big over here. So don't you worry about a fire hazard here. I mean, that's cool. Look at that. Double safety, baby. Right there, two different fire extinguishers. I'm always ready, always ready. SNES is a really great version of this 240p test suite, at least in my opinion. All right, first thing we're going to do is make sure that I have power turned on to the, you know, search protector that might, that might save us a little bit of trouble. And then I like to power on the Super Nintendo, which has the little LED modification and under the switch so I can tell it's getting, it's getting power. All right, here we go. There's the power indicator down here. Light it up green. Oh, and there's the delay. I feel the static. I feel the static. I heard the dong of the, oh yeah, there we go. Coming alive, coming alive to you folks. So I heard the dong of the degauser and we have done it. No, what we need to do is I need to get the camera set up correctly. Let me get the light. I think it'll help if I take a little light off the screen. Oh, I've got, see, I've got extra lighting in here today and it's making it look a little different, but I have to be able to reach the buttons. So I need to kind of maneuver things a little bit around and make this work for everybody. So let's, let's try to see if we can't do that now. Oh yeah, this should be a little bit. Yeah, but case the first fire extinguisher catches fire. Asia, Asian love potato. In case the first one catches fire, I've always got the second one to back it up. Yeah, I love a good 14 inch PVM. This one looks really good. I think we could, it looks like we could do some adjustments maybe. Oh yeah, I think our convergence, like our horizontal convergence could use a little bit of help, but I'm going to turn down the brightness a bit just because it makes it look better on the screen, contrast down a little bit, but we do have all our colors. So that's all really good. So let's go ahead and start the software. Yeah, I can see a little convergence on the edge here. Ooh. Oh, I forgot. Thankfully, hang on. Let me change the settings on our lovely camera here because we do not need to have that trying to do auto focus because then it will give you guys a headache. So just give me one moment here. I'll turn the camera auto focus off and I'll get that kind of lined up. Let's see here. Live focus adjustment. There we go. I think that looks pretty good. There we go. Leave it there. Get all that set up for everybody nicely and let me turn off one of these lights. Oh yeah, let's get the mood set a little bit, everybody. Let's get that mood set. All right. So we want to go and start off with the 240p test suite. We may have to back up a little bit. There we go. You're going to see that strobing a little bit because even with everything correct, still act up a little bit. Get this a little bit more centered and we're going to go to test patterns. The first thing I want to do, we might have turned the lights all the way off for this, is go to the monoscope. Turn it down a little bit and the most important thing I've got to get started with is the adjustment on convergence. So I'm going to zoom in here and this is going to be a crazy process for us today, everybody. So you just have to bear with me a little bit because we're going to have to really concentrate on keeping the camera image good as well as moving it around. So let me see. There we go. Sent the kind of stuff you see on normal television, you know, for a reason. And we're going to look at kind of, you see, you see how we have like a lot of separation here, red, green, and blue. And what we need to do is actually spend something to change that. And I actually forgot to plug in another camera here, unbelievably so. But what I can do is I'll swing around the main camera. I think I can do that. And show you what I'm doing. All right, let me get some stuff out of the way. You can kind of see a better image of me. Okay. Yeah, this is an H-stat adjustment for sure. All right, thankfully, Sony has an adjustment on the neckboard for horizontal static convergence. And it's a potentiometer. It's the one that's encased in that gray piece of plastic that you saw me put together at the very last step. So all I'm going to do is I'm going to stick my hand in this live set and scare everybody. But we're going to try to clean up this convergence a little bit. We'll go a little bit wide and then we'll come back and just see what we can do with this adjustment. First, I'm going to turn it counterclockwise. Let's see how that looks. That's not better. Turning it back clockwise. That seems to be pretty good. No, let's see. Let me take a closer look. I definitely feel like that's an improvement along this side. It was probably just knocked a little bit out of calibration when we service the neckboard. That's very possible. Just going to turn. I'm going to actually turn my microphone up so you can hear me better from farther away. That's the one thing we can do back there. The next thing we're going to check out is focus. And what we're doing on focus is we're also looking again at the neckboard. And there's another potentiometer down there. There's a way to get to it from the back. So you have a screen potentiometer and then what should be a focus potentiometer. Or no, that doesn't say focus on it. Let me see what that says. So as I said, this is a different monitor than the other ones I've worked on. So let's see what that potentiometer says. Oh, it does say focus. So this is interesting. This is not usually the case. You usually only get focus adjustments and G2 or screen brightness adjustments on the neckboard or the fly bag. This has a potentiometer on each. So I think that for this adjustment we're going to do the neckboard one because it's just again a spin. And the one on the flyback is already set with epoxy. So we can just leave it alone, hopefully. And maybe we can fine tune all this from just that one single potentiometer. We should be able to do that. And that is located right next to that other potentiometer. But don't turn the screen one because that's just going to cause you brightness issues. You only do that if you have a load burned out tube. So let's spin this counterclockwise and you see how it just gets way dull looking when you do it and it's out of focus like that. So if you have a tube that's out of focus you could try to turn the focus potentiometer and hopefully after servicing the set you can make it look nice and sharp. And that way you can make the image look a lot sharper like it does right there. And that's really the majority of the adjustments we're going to do on this set. Not all together but from like the physical hardware perspective where if you the rest of the settings for this are mostly menu based things. So we don't have to really get behind there. Now by back our view out just a little bit maybe and get you to look at the overall screen a little bit better. We are fortunate on this one to have a pretty much level screen meaning well we probably could try and lean that a little bit like this yoke needs to spin a little bit to the left. Not much that's a little overcorrection. Something like that. Just spin that yoke a little bit. I'm going to re-tighten that yoke ring make sure it's good and tight. There we go. Now we see we have all the our screen's not so tilted now but we still have a little bit of convergence issues and it's unfortunately I don't know that I'll see or you'll be able to see that convergence up here. But what I can do is first off let me show you what I'm going to do here. I'll take the camera and show you behind here and that's what I'm going to do is I know it's out of focus really but there's two potentiometers in the back of this yoke right here and we're going to spin. I'm going to stick a screwdriver in there and just turn them and you'll be able to see hopefully some convergence improve on this screen. I'm going to try to get it in the corner and see just if we can even make it look like you'll be able to see this. I'm not 100% sure I can get it all done. Maybe if I turn like all the lights out. Turn that out and I don't know. Let's see. Let's see if I can get this to focus folks. I appreciate your patience and hanging out here in this live. This is what happens in live video but we're going to have fun. We're not we're going to have fun and do this. We're going to get it focused. There we go. That's looking better. It's too much. Maybe that's that looks about that looks pretty darn good. Let's see if we could zoom in in any. Oh we're going to zoom in. Look at that. Oh holy moly. Maybe maybe just maybe we can get it to gosh it does not want to focus on that that far zoomed. It's so weird. Okay so it might just have to be a slight bit out of focus. It might need to zoom out a little more. That shows a weird almost artifacting. And let's just try like that. So I'm going to try to make these adjustments with this potentiometer and we'll see if it shows any different. I mean that still doesn't look that great. We'll try it out though. I've got my little screwdriver Phillips head screwdriver and the first one says YCH. So Y might be the vertical. See if that does anything of as I turn it to the right. Oh look at that. See how it does that. If you see you got to expand it a little bit and try to get those beams out. See if they squash together you end up with red or blue. I know it's it's I can't I can't really see it on that screen. I'm sorry. I wish I could if I get any closer. Let's see. Well you see how the blue comes out and it's white and then it's red. See that red comes through blue. So you got to kind of get it lined up. But you can do that to correct the corner convergence. So of course doing that makes the bottom convergence look bad. So we almost got to go there and then let me pull this out a little bit closer there. We got maybe that'll help. Let's try the other one. There's another potentiometer. It does the same sort of thing. So you can play with these until you line all the beams on. Okay. It's not going to give you a perfect results but it does help you angle the corners beams better and you can get better convergence at the edges by just okay by making the combo. I have to go back in something like that. And I know that's not that kind of a demo is not the most ideal. It's not the easiest thing to show on a CRT. But you can use those potentiometers and you can use other items obviously to help with convergence on that screen. I mean you could use convergence strips if you need to. There's already quite a few convergence strips back there. And I could definitely change those convergence strip alignment. We go back here and fix up our video just a second and we'll start getting into the service menu a little bit. All right. Let's zoom out. There we go. Okay. We are using well you know what I should probably zoom out. I'm sorry. I'll zoom out a little more because I want you to be able to see what I'm doing with my hands. So I need you to be able to see the bottom of the screen. So let's I can't make the camera go real much lower. That's a little better. That'll work right there. So the idea here is to use this tool like we did in the last calibration. But this tool being the 240p test suite and we've used it. We've got you could go in there and fine tune other things if you wanted to like we talked about. But this has this looks good right now. Like if you're just looking at it we got convergence set. We got our yoke kind of set. We got our focus and our convergence pretty well set. Hey Dell. Thanks for stopping by today. So we've got all that now we can jump into this menu and at the same time we've given the set a bit time to work out work out any issues it may have with the new capacitors. It looks like it's doing well so we don't even have anything. So I'm going to first off switch over to a different input so you can actually see what's coming up on the screen. I have the menu button here pushed says nothing for format no sink because nothing's on on this input line. Okay. This is going to tell us our color temperature. There's a couple different ones we can select from on there later. Our component level that's the setting NTSC setup is on zero. There's a couple different selections that can be put on that. And look right here it says it's set up for component which is kind of weird because it's actually not in component. At least not on this. Well see if we go over here to this line which is RGB it's set on RGB. The same things are all the same though but as I have a signal in here it says RGB. It says 480i 60. Okay. No sink. Back to an empty one so you can see the background. With this menu status pulled up we're going to press the gauze and enter simultaneously. Bam. We are now in the sub menu. Okay. We're going to go up and down to look at these things. Okay. You can do a lot of things here right. White balance. This is a sub bright. You can set the sub brightness if you wanted to go down. Sub chroma sub phase. Okay. Same thing you can decrease and adjust the colors for a temperature. Manually adjust them. Adjust the gains. Okay. Like obviously I don't have anything pulled up. I don't have anything pulled up but I could use that to adjust my reds, intensities for D93 manually. That's how you get in there. You could even put a color probe up to this. Analyze your color bars and then make adjustments based on what that data tells you. Okay. Sub bright. Sub contrast. That's how you change those. This is something you're not really going to get into. Decoder color. CKM. CKM again, not stuff we're worried about. Deflection is the second setting. This is of course something we're worried about, right? I wouldn't really go in here and mess with these. This is under the focus. Don't mess with that. It's high voltage stuff I believe. I'm not entirely sure about that. I don't know enough about that section to make me dangerous in a good way. I definitely could be dangerous in a bad way. All right. Under deflection. We have a raster for horizontal and vertical. These are pretty self-explanatory. Okay. Horizontal size and horizontal positioning. Horizontal black left. Again, it's not something you're normally going to adjust because that's like the black level lines on the outside on the edging of your image. That's really meant for adjusting that out of picture data because analog video has more picture data going on above and out to the side of the screen than you can normally get to see. That's how it's telling it to sync lines so that black, I believe, is to block that out or edge blocking, maybe even image if it's too much on the edges. I'm not, I'm just saying don't worry about that too much. All right. Let's get, we'll just be more concerned with size and position. Same thing, vertical size, vertical center, vertical black top. Okay. That's the one you don't really mess with on this adjustment but vertical size, just make that vertical size bigger. And the centerness moves the vertical center. Pretty easy stuff, pretty helpful. We'll make some adjustments to these in a minute. Finally, this is where you make the fine-tuning adjustments to the edges. These two are for vertical linearity. I can't remember Croatian correction. I can't remember what they call these two things, the S and C, but those are the two. You can pull up a linearity screen and adjust these two and make sure that you have a linear picture vertically. Look at all these side pin controls. Those are for pin cushion settings. We have a lot of them. Paracontrol and trapezoid is also going to help us with our screen tilts as far as like it used to be called pin, pin amp, pin phase. Well now they got rid of pin phase and it's just like trapezoid or paracontrol is another control. We'll get in here. We'll play with these as soon as I get done going through them. I don't know. So that's it on the deflection under the geometry setting. The option, this would only breed something if we had an option card installed. So after we do that, if we were getting pretty close on time, I don't know, I've got about 30 minutes left. I might be able to put an option card in there today. If not, you can test that out by just putting a card in there. This version 1.5, that should be a pretty late version as far as firmware. It's fine. This is how you do a factory reset. I wouldn't do that, but if you're crazy and you want to do that, you can do that in there. You could change sometimes the model type, like 14 inch model type, USA. I don't know. This is just some more information. Nothing really for us. Nothing on there for us either. So really, the only thing we're going to want to be playing with is the horizontal and vertical raster and our geometry settings. Okay. And that's it. So let's go back over here. Pull up our pass pattern. And it's going to be hard for you to see that menu, right? But if I do something like, let's start with horizontal position. Okay. Up on it, makes it go right, right, left. You see that? Hold it down. It'll go further right and we'll lose picture. Okay. Look at that. See, look at that. The menu disappeared. That's a problem with this monitor. The menu gets really dicey if the horizontal position is not in like a preferred spot. Look at that. See, look, see, see how it straightened out the deflection on there. So we really probably need to have it like right here. And I don't know. I'm concerned that this might need like a horizontal Bayes adjustment to keep that need that safe. Let me see if there's a bit of a job that usually is. Yeah, there is. I don't know. Let's see what happens if I can even do it. Gosh, I don't want to do it too much and damage it because it can get unstable if you do something like this wrong. But that's a common problem with this monitor is that deflection, all their menus just start disappearing. We're going to try that and see hopefully this maintains a stable position. There's a potentiometer in the back. It's right next to the flyback on the main board. And it's not one that you're really supposed to adjust too much. But I feel like you can tell there's something going on with the phase that doesn't agree with the monitor. And that's a common problem for this L2. So hopefully the correction I just did will be fine and stable. We'll monitor it. Literally monitoring the monitor. Okay. So our horizontal center is good. And we're not going to try to go for a huge overscanned image on this tube. So we can use the horizontal and vertical settings to center the image. Number one. And number two, we're going to use that to set our aspect ratio. And as I said before, to do this, I'm using a just a like Taylor's measuring tape. And I'm measuring the distance or the size of this square. These squares needs to all be uniform. And the size needs to be uniform on these edges and these sides in order for the aspect ratio to be correct. And it's pretty much right on. I mean, it's three and a half inches by three and a half inches. I can't believe it. It's pretty much right on the exact aspect ratio. So we really don't need to make an adjustment to it. However, we did make the horizontal position adjustment. We're going to hit enter to save that. That's all you do. You just hit enter. You don't have to do any degausing or anything. And vertical size is okay. But what I do want to do is vertical center adjustment. Just a little bit up one to 87. That's it. So that's I mean, and you're going to have different results depending on what your CRT looks like. But those are pretty easy adjustments. And what you saw me do is completely safe. Again, if you have the menu disappear, like we just saw, watch the rest of this video, we'll just see. I don't think there's going to be an issue with what I did to adjust that. So you may need to do that also. Let's check out some of these geometry settings, right? We're going to hit enter on the geometry. And I'm going to go and show you a different pattern that's not on the 240p test suite anymore. So currently we're sitting at a 10 on there. So I don't know whether we're actually going to make any adjustments or not. We're trying to make the circles look like different shapes. They look pretty circular. But this can be used. Ooh, that looks like it's good to fine tune. You're trying to make these look like circles, not oblong shapes. So you can use that one. If you just press menu, it takes you back to the original setting. Okay. If you just don't hit enter, it'll say, you know, like right here, it's on 27. Let's see what it looks like. Look at that. That's definitely egg shaped. That's right, folks. We're going on a journey to deflection down. So you can use that setting to change that linearity. Those two settings. Let's check out trapezoid. But those will help you make the image look better, obviously. Here we are. Let's see what the trapezoid will do. Now watch the screen. It's almost like the top. Watch. See how it looks like you're, that's the old pen phase, the old pen phase. Okay. So if your bottom's leaning forward in the image where the top is, you can fix it with that. That's the old pin phase trapezoid. Now the side pin is obviously pin cushion settings, right? See that one does more of a wide larger adjustment. The W is only going to do like the edges a little bit extra. It's like extra touchiness on there, right? So it doesn't do the same spot. It's like just below that on there. Let's see what the balance does. That's going to do even like tighter, it's like tightening those legs out. Oh, there we go. It's really on tight. Okay. So actually, let me get a little bit out on that one. Let's see what pair control is. I think this is tilt or something. Yeah, screen tilt. Right. See how that's tilting in case your screen is tilting one way or the other. Fix that up with pair control. Sorry to pick my nose there in front of everybody. Sorry about that. Head niche. Side pin S. Let's see what this one does. This is like just the bottom for the most part. See that's just the bottom and a little bit of the top tip top. It's almost like another linearity control. So that's all those deflection settings. Okay. You have a ton more side pin controls that you could sit there and try to tweak that edge till it looks so straight and beautiful to your heart's desire. And you can do it all from the comfort of the front of the monitor and no risk to damaging it or hurting yourself. Okay. Okay. Just do that when you're done. Hit menu once to get out. Hit menu again. Go back to the main portion here. And you can click the gauze or I'm sorry, just click the input that you're on. See how I did that? I'm on the main, I'm on the deflection menu. I click the input, it goes away. And if I just pull up the regular menu, it'll be fine. I can go back down to the regular menu. Okay. Thanks, Romario. Hey, Alexei, Alexei. Thank you for coming in today, everybody. We've done pretty good on time. Everything seemed to go well. We just haven't too much good luck today. And that's the image. Looks pretty good. Let's see how it looks with something else on it besides the test screen. That's something that anybody should feel fine to fire up a 240p test suite cartridge and check out for yourself. I really wish that this camera would do this monitor justice. I'm betting this is going to just flash like crazy. Maybe not. Yeah, see, all whites really hard to... There we go. If I back it up, but then it starts to look crazy. Yeah, it's so hard, right? That's has all to do with lighting. Maybe if I add no help there. That's what we got to go with like the darker themed games. Hey, Steve, do you think those Toshiba AF sets have decent S video output? Did they look good? And you know, this was interesting thinking that you brought that up. I actually thought the image looked a little better in S video. I don't know why. Normally it wouldn't make sense compared to component even. That's a strange thing to say on that monitor. I didn't know. I didn't know that was really possible. Man, that monitor looks just super sharp now, though. In person, this one. Gradius 3. I think there was something wrong with my Gradius 3. Like it's going to be slow. I don't know if I have that updated version. Yeah, that's what I was thinking. It is the game that you can have the big slowdown. Somebody made me a hacked copy of it or whatever, a bootleg copy of the fixed ROM one time, but it does have black backgrounds in it a lot. So it's a good one to show on a CRT tube. Maybe it just looks so good. So yeah, I don't know. The guy wants this one. I have another 14L tube, but I think the tubes just got too many hours on it. It looks bloomed. I don't think there's really any fix for that, except you're trying to find another tube. That looks cool. I'm trying not to watch it on my screen. I'm trying to see what you do. It's like the slowdown happens. I can't remember. You know, it's like when you get too many objects on the screen and it does that whole slowdown movement. A CRT tube. That's right. Double tube. It's kind of funny you talk about CRT and you forget that it does say cathode ray tube in the actual name itself. It just looks really good. Really, really good. And then again, you got the option card slot. I mean, this one, hey Brian, thanks for coming. Master Safer, Brian. Good to see you here as always. Finlog, Loc, thank you for coming. Andre, thank you for coming. Yeah, I think this one looks really good. Yeah, just right. Like an ATM machine. I didn't think this looked that good. I don't know why. It's just got a super sharp image in person with the scan lines to show really, really well. I really like some things that they did on this revision. It's a revision. I mean, the expanded controls on the deflection as far as those extra controls they give you for you get double the linearity controls as opposed to the earlier models. And you get twice to three or four times as many controls to adjust your pin cushion settings. So it's like a win-win on that. It's also got a 600. This is a 600 line tube. It's newer. There's some things I like about the design of the hardware, but there's also some things I don't like as much. I don't like this buildouts as much. They're a little bit harder to disassemble than the earlier versions of CRTs and PVMs. But I like the expanded features. I like the menu. I think it's a lot easier to navigate through that menu. Compare that to one of the M series or any of the other kind of that's one of the easiest service menus to navigate and know what you're doing, right? Because it's labeled right there, the deflection portion. So it's pretty self-explanatory. So I think that it's really this is this probably L2 maybe maybe the best PVM to recommend to somebody as like either the starting PVM or the one that could last to the rest of your life really. If you you could find it, get it, put it and be like, I'm so happy with this one. I'm not worried about another one. I don't have a lot of space if you're in that kind of situation. Or if you're like me, you get multiple of them and you add them to your stop pile. Hey, Yerma and winter time. No, no, no winter time. There's no spare tubes to buy really not new ones. It's been a good few years. I mean, unless somebody finds that storage bin full of them or something that we're just sitting around, then no, because I talked to Pat. Pat used to get them three years ago. And then it would be like, I mean, I want to say it was like two grand back then, 1500 for a brand new 14 inch BVM tube, 20 inch probably like $3,000 back then. That's like three years ago. And I know that people still bought them all up. And now I've not seen a new tube for a BVM in a long time. That's what I'm saying. I've got a garage filled with the best CRT hardware you would ever imagine. Just no good CRT. There you go. I said it right that time, Master Safer. There's no tube in those monitors that work. Every one of the tubes has bad problems. So now your proposition is to take away from used monitors. Like the thing where you go rip an old engine out of an old Harley to put it in a better shell of a Harley. It's just something like that's what you're basically doing. No way. None of us would have the income. Like I don't even, I mean, I'll be honest with you when I was growing up, I never had a Sony television. They were too expensive, just the regular televisions. My family had, like the best thing my family had was a Toshiba. Best thing. Yeah, tubeless. It's like tubeless tires. It doesn't work unfortunately. It works for the tires. It doesn't work for the monitor to go tubeless. I wonder, that's interesting, what if people started doing it like they do it? Well, that would be dumb. But doing like they do it in the arcade, you started installing LCD panels inside the CRT hardware or without the CRT and put that in there. Exactly. Pio 17 read my mind. Man. Well, I've talked with Greg about this. I think there's some good ideas there. But it would take it. I think it would take a total compilation of things we would need. We'd have to even be a super expensive item. It would need the right screen. It would need the right picture processing. So you need to get the good screen. You need to get basically Mike Chi to design the whole guts of the TV. And then the only way to do this is to put it in a box, maybe a smaller version, thinner version of the Trinitron, like not so deep, half as deep. And then have that just a lot of empty space. Use the new screens that you can curve right along one access. And then you could make a perfect rep remodel with the right screen processing on it, you know, could do that. Now it looks sharp even with the bad, bad image on there. That level looks dope. All right, guys, we have any more questions here? I'm about to sign off for the day and we'll call it a, we'll call it a finished restoration here. Yeah. Hey, Steven Norton, Gatlinburg. Oh, man, I know they've done that. So the funny thing is, is right in that area of Gatlinburg, there's next to Gatlinburg, there's a place called Severeville, and they do some of the biggest arcade machine auctions there quarterly. You can go look up arcade auctions in Tennessee. It's a huge website. I've always wanted to go and try to see what I could find because they'll have 400 machines that roll through there during an auction. It's like quarterly. It's funny, they have the auction right there. You go get a nice new machine, anything, and they're thrown at LCDs. And there's a, there's a place local here that has like three quarters LCDs in all their cabinets. It drives me nuts. And then they don't maintain the machines well. So half the buttons start acting up. Hey, Retro Arts TV, KV29 C1B. I'm not familiar with that one off the top of my head by just the model name. But I am looking forward to reviewing more consumer sets on a serious level. Because I'd like, I mean, just for the heck of it, right? Who cares? It's just, that's what the internet's for. Filled with information that might be suitable for 100 people. Reviews for old TVs. Hey, everybody, I'm going to take off here today. I want to say thank you everybody for showing up. Thank you to everybody who supports this channel, especially on Patreon. Literally, that's the only reason I can do all this stuff is because of you guys. Thank you for joining me today. Thank you for all the great chat. I really appreciate everybody who comes in and we've had some great discussions today and some great discussions going on between everybody in there. But that's it. 14L2 done. I will be maybe streaming with you sometime before this week's over. I'm not sure I have a very busy in-laws-in-town kind of weekend, you know? So that may keep me till the next stream. And also I'll tell you there's not going to be a new video this weekend. I'm thinking the next weekend I'm going to have a big release. And I'm excited to show you that one because it's all about dead BVM tubes, which we've been talking about a little bit today, all about dead BVM tubes. So again, please make sure you subscribe to the channel. 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