 workshop here in the workshop. I just needed to bring the energy up there a little bit. It was moments before the show. So now I'm hype. I hope you are too. Let's do this. We've got some fun stuff planned for today. By we I mean me. I've got some fun stuff planned for today. What's gonna happen here? What's this show all about? What are we doing? Well here we are. We're in my workshop and I'm gonna give you a coupon code. You can use that to buy stuff. I'm gonna show you a product pick of the week recap. I have a brand spanking new circuit Python Parsec to share. I have great people in the chat by the way if you're wondering where a chat is. Hello Liz. I just saw you pop in. Got my attention. Johnny Bergdahl. Hello. Hey Jeff. Hey Jim. Some nice DJ Devon 3 Mike P. Who else is in here? Andy Calloway. Hello C Grover. Welcome welcome. So that's our Discord chat. If you're wondering where the chat is and you're over on Facebook or Twitch or who knows where and you're wondering where's the chat. Come on over here to the Discord. It's that. It's on that side and it is at the adafru.it slash discord. You can go there. You will jump in and look for the live broadcast chat channel. Someone asked me this the other day. Do we have other channels? Yes indeed. If you look over on the left side of the Discord interface here we've got general chat, live broadcast chat. We have help with a whole ton of these help with channels including circuit Python 3D printing, in fruit IO, Arduino, audio, radio, wearables, robotics and so on. And then there's also topics. This is where like the circuit Python Dev people hang out and on and on. So we have a whole bunch of different channels. And the one that's happening right now during the show that is the live broadcast chat. So pop on, pop on by. I'm also keeping an eye over on the YouTube chat. So hello Davo Dessa there and Johnny Bergdahl. You appear in two places at once. What else is happening? I have a cool retro gear report that I may try to do something functional with. It is something that has been sitting in a bin since a friend of mine gave it to me about five years ago and I finally unearthed it and restored it and I'm excited to show it to you. Hint, it's German. Can you guess what it is? That's not very specific but let's see what you come up with. I'll keep an eye out on the live broadcast chat. What else? And I'm going to cover some stuff related to lighting, photographic lighting for in particular macro shots but other types of shots that you can do with one of these little memento cameras here including the LED rings on it that's useful for macro photography and I'll give you a little lead into that by covering the learn guide. I'll do a little recap of the learn guide. I just put out on doing focus stacking and other focus tricks in the memento software and in post-processing. Electric lederhosen. Yeah, DJ7-3, that's a good guess. I may have to build those then. Okay, and that's going to do it. So the first thing I'll do is let you know that is today's coupon code. So if you want to go over to Adafruit and buy some stuff and you're looking to save a little bit of money, we've got a coupon code for you. It's Slarpie. Slarpie. That is apparently the terrifying duo back there of Slapie and Lars are going by Slarpie. Kind of like, I can't what are the Angelina Jolie and Hushi with and the J.Lo and the Ben Affleck. They have a little couple names, right? So Slarpie, they wanted to get on that. You can tell I'm not. I'm not really useful for your celebrity entertainment reporting. I don't have a lot of that top of mind. But Slarpie. Slarpie is your coupon code. Those two buddies over there. That will get you 10% off in the store. So if you head on over to Adafruit.com right there. Move that coupon code for a second. And I bet I won't remember to move it back. But let's see. That is good on any of this stuff you see here. It won't work on gift certificates or subscriptions or software. But if you're buying physical goods, maybe you want to get 10% off on roughly 100 electrostatic or anti-static zip-top baggies. What are your big plans? Maybe you're kidding stuff and selling things and you're looking for some anti-static ESD sensitive compliant baggies. We have 50 sets of 100 of these in stock. You can buy them right now. And you can get 10% off by entering that Slarpie. Don't forget it's two P's in the coupon code field on your way out. That's not all you can get if you check out the view all new products. Hey, these came in. Lady Aida was teasing these last night, introducing these last night. New itsy-bitsies. Love the itsy-bitsies. So these are now new chip. We've never had an ESP32 chip on an itsy-bitsie. So now you can get an itsy-bitsie that is Wi-Fi happy. And we have two models. We have the one that's got a little built-in antenna on the PCB. And we have one that has the little Hirose connector for your external antenna. Both of them come with the two megs of PS RAM, eight megs of flash. So super capable teensy boards. If you like that form factor and you've been wanting to do some Wi-Fi stuff or other things, you can do loads and loads of good stuff with an ESP32-based board. In fact, I think I was looking to try out some of that WLED stuff that Aaron has been doing. And I believe that runs on the ESP32. So I'll bet you this is a good, good bet. Other things you can do on this particular ESP32, by the way, composite video. So if you remember, or if you've seen before, the little video nub that I made that does composite video, that runs on ESP32. Not S2, not S3, none of that. ESP32. So this could be a cool board for that. But there's plenty of other new stuff in the store and good old stuff, so go stock up on things. And get yourself 10% off simply by typing in this cursed coupon code SLARPY. Right, guys? Let's see. What else? Other Zeiss Planetarium Projectors. Jim Hendrickson. That's a really close guess, actually. That's weirdly close. How does he know? It's not that exactly, but that's a really great guess. Okay. I don't think that guess is gonna be topped. But maybe now you can riff along those lines. Yes, I'll show that. We have Swells. Is Swells, Taylor Swift, and Travis Kelsey? Swellsy? Or Calift? I don't know. Yeah. Mike P said, Aaron has some cool light projects that wooly Wal-Mat was neat. I don't wanna pet that thing. It's really cool. Very, very cool. Right. Next up, what's happening? Hey, so on Tuesdays, I do this show right there, that one that you see. That's my product pick of the week show. And on the show, I show you something often a new thing, or a revised thing in this case, and give you a big discount. This one had a 50% discount. Do a little demo. Here's a one minute recap. DS 3231 Precision Real Time Clock Breakout. This has I square C to communicate with your microcontroller. It has a battery backup, so it's always gonna keep track of the time, even when your project is powered down. And it has the StemAQT connectors to make it plug and play with your microcontroller project. So the crystal is sitting there oscillating, but the temperature can change that oscillation. So it has a temperature compensation, so it can adjust the time that it's reporting based on any changes in temperature. I'm gonna plug that StemAQT cable into my real time clock. It's gonna power up, and then it is immediately gonna grab the time off of the chip. So I set this chip yesterday while I was setting up this project with the time, and it has just been sitting there continuously running and calculating that time. So it just updated, and now here we are, 113 and 30 seconds. DS 3231 Precision Real Time Clock Breakout with StemAQT. Hey, wow, that audio was way out of sync. Is that happening to everything I'm doing? No, it was just that video. So I don't know if that was a playback thing or an editing thing that I screwed up. Sorry about that. I'll look into it, but hopefully the broadcast has not got the audio desync happening. It doesn't look like it. Okay, next up, let's do a, what I think is a very useful little circuit Python parsec. Okay, let me get my code window where I can see it here. Very good. Okay, for the circuit Python parsec today, I wanted to show you how to use the keypad library to control, no, that's not it. For the circuit Python parsec today, I wanted to show you how you can use the keypad library to use buttons. So anytime you're using a button on a microcontroller, you will run into issues about debouncing. So when you press the button, does it feel like you are pressing it lots and lots of times because there's sort of a little arc going on? Does it continuously spam the fact that it's held down or allow you to release it? So there's a lot of setup that we do. It's not that bad. And we've covered some of that before. But one of the really nice things about the keypad library designed for keyboards and macro pads and game controllers is that it handles this implicitly under the hood really easily. So all I need to do is import the keypad library. And then I'm going to set up the one button that's built on to this cutiepie here as keypad keys, give it the button pin, this little button here can be used as a user pin, and then tell it which if it's a pull up or pull down value when pressed. In this case, it's false. I'm also setting up the Neopixel so it'll blink. And then you can see here when I press it, if you look at my code view down at the bottom, it's saying pressed, released, pressed, released, pressed, released, I'm also lighting up the LED. And I'm keeping count there just so you can see it's not getting lots of spurious hits and flying by. It's actually very nice and controlled. And so the way that I'm reading that in the main loop is just to say button equals buttons.events.get. So that is constantly checking to see has anything changed about the button that we've specified here. If it has, then we check is it pressed? Or is it released when it's pressed? I'm typing or printing out the word pressed and the variable there I which is my counter. And when it's released, it just prints out released and then it'll increment that counter so that we can get a new number the next time we press it. So I'm not having to do any debouncing. I'm not having to create my own states to keep track of things. It all happens right inside of the keypad library. And so that's how you can use the keypad library to make working with buttons plain easy. That's your circuit Python parsec. Where'd I go? There I am. So let's see. Yeah, that's become a catch all because often I would use debouncer and there's a little extra setup there. keyboard, it's built in. You don't have to add that library. It's built into circuit Python, I think on most, if not all boards. So really easy to use really fun trick right there. Okay. Next up, let's see what I wanted to do for a setup for some of the memento lighting stuff I wanted to show is to give a little recap of this learn guide right here. So I just, if you remember last week, if you're tuned into this show, I covered some of the techniques, code and results that I was getting doing focus stacking, doing focus rack focusing, and using a two split focus to create a sort of split focus split diopter shot. So this is the learn guide just came out. You can see here I've got one of these macro shots of the flowers that I made and if you take a look at the sort of large scale version of that you can see we have really nice focus on this. If I zoom in, you can see even the little sort of tiny cilia looking things on this flower whose name I don't know. In fact, I learned none of the names of any of these flowers are probably should have. You can see those are sort of the deepest thing I have in focus we actually, when I took the photos got pretty much everything, even things back behind here in focus, but I limited the ones I wanted to use to start right there where those little background fuzz little fuzz is are in focus. And then moving forward, these objects are closer, you can see there's a little bit of pollen on on this strange flower in the foreground and everything in the sort of mid ground of this is also in focus. And so that back out here is one of the tricks that we can do. I did a little bit of a explainer there where hopefully you can see that let me zoom in a little bit further. You can see here as you hover over by the way I've noticed this before, if you hover over the thumbnails in this what we call the side two element in a learn guide, it will show the other image don't have to click on anything is kind of nice, especially in a comparison like this, you can just hover over the two and see the difference. So that one shows when that back that far focus plant was in focus, the foreground plants blurry and vice versa when the foreground little bits of pollen there and focus that background is blurry. And so this one here is not possible with that lens, but it is possible with stacking up those, those separate images there. Jim Henrickson has a good point over in our Discord chat, you can ID the plants by doing a Google image search. That would be great. If anyone wants to tell me what these are, I'd love to know. So that's an example of roughly where I had the camera placed for these actually think I got a little closer on some of them, the near focus, I haven't measured it, but it is pretty dang close up. And so to get the nearest focus stuff in focus, I moved that camera and even closer on those flowers. Then here's a little gif animation I did using the same technique I have the camera taking multiple photos. And at each stop, it pulls the focus nearer by pushing the lens out somewhat paradoxically. That's how optical physics works. So the lens is pushing forward, forward, forward with each photo that we take. And that gives us the focus getting nearer, nearer, nearer for shot. And then I took a range of those and turned them into a gif animation. So I have maybe 30 frames, 35 frames or something like that, maybe fewer actually, this might be like 15 frames. And I'm simply playing those one after another at a certain frame rate holding and then I reversed them so that we get this little back and forth of our foreground character and this mid ground guy in the vest getting in and out of focus. That's all you need for it is the memento and a USB cable for some power. And then in this focus tricks section, I've got a little more info about what those techniques are. Let me just zoom out there a little bit. So there's just by name and what they are the stacked focus, which can be used for things other than a macro, you can, you can, for example, I did a example last week with the Lego set here, all those characters, all of them in focus at once. So it doesn't have to just be macro close up stuff. And then here's a new example I made of the split diopter style shot. So you can see here we have just Lars in focus. Let's see if I can zoom closer on that one. So just Lars in focus, that's the far focus range. Then just slappy in focus, you can see he sharpens up and Lars is blurry. And then we have both. And so this is really a split focus shot. It's done in cinema cameras, using a split diopter, which is essentially a second lens element that goes in front of the first lens element, but it is semi circular line down the middle so that we're just essentially magnifying one half of the frame. And there's a little blur there just because of the sort of difference in the two materials that are the lights passing through. And I captured that in this, I'll show you how that got made. First of all, here is our code explainer. You can download the code right here. I have since last week added back all of the other camera features. So you can choose to do a focus stack. But you can also do all the other camera stuff. One thing I actually haven't tried yet to be kind of fun to put it into something like Game Boy mode. And then do some so you get the one bit images, those will those probably will look interesting with certain high contrast subjects. But you can use all the techniques you can throw all the filters on. You can use the LED light ring there, which is something we'll get to in a second here. By the way, I did get a little bit of I got my tape measure out and check to see what some of these values are. So the little lens voice coil starts at zero, which is nearest the sensor, and then pushes out to a value of 255. And it's a little magnetic coil that's sort of like a solenoid, it's pushing the element forward and backwards. At zero, we get the farthest possible I didn't measure that sort of infinite focus. But at a 12 inch mark, we're at about 95. So starting at zero, if you set this sort of unit list voice coil current value to 95, you're good at about four inches at 130, we're good at about 12 inches at 95, four inches at 130. So you can characterize this more thoroughly than I did, but I just wanted to get a little idea there. And one of the reasons this is useful is in the code, you can start your focus stacking slices at something nearer than zero, which is infinite. So you can start it if you want to say, Okay, I want to get something that's starting 12 inches away and closer, then you can set your beginning value at 95. And then it'll it'll take your little individual slices, just at that range. So you don't have as much junk to throw out that'd be perfect for something like the macro of the flowers, you're not you don't want the stuff that's way out there, you just want a little slice, a little range there in focus. Then I've got a little explainer of the code there. So you can go through and see how the different parts of this work. One thing I can't remember if I had had this set last week or not, but I went ahead and added in the code that Lamor had created for our time lapses, that locks the auto gain, let's say it locks the gain, it takes takes a setting on the first photo, grabs that and then just holds that. So gain won't be changing through every photo. White balance won't be changing through every photo and exposure won't be changing. So all of those are things that could, it could recalculate per frame what it thinks it should be doing. And then you get a lot of sort of strobing and stuff. So this locks those during it and then releases those for the next one. Okay, so then we have our examples here. So I just tell you how to how to go about doing in code the focus stack. Excuse me. I did it last week in Photoshop. But there's this focus stacking online, which is a really nice, free site. And it does a great result. This one that you see was done with that. So it's not like it's wildly different than doing it in Photoshop. I think they're all implementing some of the same papers that have been written about this subject. So they use similar algorithms to do the alignment and the blending. There's also a, I put a link to the technique from Adobe that tells you how to do that in Photoshop. It's just a few steps. It's not not not very intensive. And then there's a one that was mentioned by Fede to in our chat and who uses this for microscopy for the same thing for for stacking multiple focus focal distances in microscopy photography. And that's a open source command line tool called focus stack by Pateri Imonen. Then I have a set here on rack focus. So you can see there's a example photo. It's not the exact I rearranged them after I took this photo. But there you can see I've got sort of mid to foreground objects. I took these in five increment five unit increments slices or so roughly that here you can see the far guy I want actually this this biker guy with the wrenches is I think in focus maybe or more the best guy than the foreground guy and then we have some links to turning those frames into gifts. That's a fun way to create some drama or show a two shot conversation someone noticing something in the background could be really cool for your stop motion as well to be able to use these focus tricks to to put attention where you want it. And then lastly we have here this Lars and Slappy back together again for the first time. And they are just two images that I took. Again I set it to take the full range at an increment of I think 10 or 20 and then took my favorite to the most in focus ones and combine them with a mat that has a soft edge. And so essentially what that matte means is the slappy image is a layer being composited on top of the Lars image and wherever you see white pixels the slappy is fully opaque wherever you see black pixels the slappy is fully transparent and then there's a gradient in between that's what gives us the split focus shot and a little blur in between. There you can see an image in Photoshop of what that layering looks like and that's pretty similar in any bit of compositing software you might use you could also do this from command line use something like image magic. This is one where if anyone is super into this and excited about this I would love to see someone implement it on the camera. We had a question on Ask an Engineer last night about can we do macro focus stacking on the memento on a micro controller. And while it may be possible it takes a long time even on a general purpose sort of heavy duty desktop computer so I don't think it's necessarily practical I could be wrong on that but we don't have focus stacking implemented on the microcontroller. This however be nice to see a variation on the code that maybe allows you to lock in two focal ranges pick one pick another just based on what's in the center of the frame so pointed at Lars without slappy there pointed at slappy mark those two minimum and maximum values take the two photos and use the bitmap tools library to composite them seems very possible so if anyone is interested in doing that I'd love to see it I'd love to try it out so that's my my request of any community member that's that's going ho about this stuff. And a question another question that's that we just got was about some banding that that someone said they were seeing like noise banding and lines on on the memento shots. I don't think you can see him here on the the Lars shot there but they definitely are noisy sensors in low light so dark areas you will definitely see a lot of noise. And so that's one of the reasons I wanted to talk about this today. This sensor on this camera loves light. The best thing you can do for for your photos taken with this little thing is light the scene. Well give give a lot of light on your subject. I'll show you in a second. It's one of the reasons this LED ring is here because we can get some light right on the subject from the directional lens which helps it not impart too much drama to it's fairly flat lighting because it's it's front facing. But then we'll use some other lighting or a little trick I came up with with that one to do some some side lighting or back lighting. So yeah if you're finding you're getting noisy photos try taking some it's just a limitation I think of the sensor. There may be some things that can be done to characterize the noise and stomp it out. That's that's something that's done with sensors sometimes. But in fact you can do it yourself. If you really want to you can take a picture in the dark and then use that as your as a mat or a modification layer in something like Photoshop to knock out those pixels and grab neighboring pixels. So some tricks you can do with a sensor noise frame. You can you can Google that. In fact how do I how do I take a photo of the noise that my camera produces in order to knock that out of the photo. That's definitely a possible way to combat that. But we'll take a little easier tack with no post processing required which is to light things. Well so let's get into that and then I'll I'll do my just because I got the stuff set up there I'll do my little mysterious retro gear thing after I usually do that in the other order but today since this stuff is set up we'll go over here. So I'm gonna I've moved my cameras around a bit so instead of a desktop down shooter on the bench rather instead of my down shooter that's usually here looking down. I have my camera switcher going. So I have this camera right here pointing on the desk and pointing sideways so that it'll be a little easier to show some of these things. So to start off with on the memento I think I have this. Yeah I have this set right now for focus stack mode so I'm just going to change that and I don't have this in a UI. I'm just going to change that in code so let's sorry let's switch back over here for a second I'm gonna plug this memento in and okay just updated this this editor auto refreshed to the code.py that it's pointing at. So I will just turn off for now the focus stacking. So I'm just going to set stack to false. The reason I didn't do this in the UI is that all of the UI stuff that you see here is in the library. So hopefully I or Lady Aida or Jeff or someone will be able to integrate this if we want into the one sort of monolithic camera example and then it can be a mode but right now I'm just leaving the mode at JPEG and toggling that code. So this should work let's try it let me get a SD card there by the way I'm a big fan of these we sell these little micro SD card credit card looking holder things they're helpful to not lose if you have a few of these little micro SD cards laying around those are helpful I'll show you those on our website in a little bit remember okay go why is this card not going in? Do I have you backwards? Yeah don't force it in if it's having trouble going in it's because you have flipped okay so it says SD card okay there I'm just going to take a picture snap it just took one it didn't take a whole rack of them that's good and I will just unplug that card in there okay let's see what we can do with demonstrating some of these lighting techniques that I used for the flowers I gave the flowers to my wife for Valentine's Day so those are no longer in play here for taking photos in the workshop let me get this up on a tripod I just said a little just try to block some of the background distraction there so I've got an old tripod and one of these like six dollar iPhone holder kind of things that I find to be pretty useful for just clamping almost any photographic thingy I'm working with into put the memento in there I really should print some of our tripod cases I know okay so that's good that doesn't block anything there you can see and that'll allow me to it doesn't tip over okay okay so now what I'm going to do is I'm going to kill my overhead light and in fact I'm going to do that with the Bluetooth the blue fruit app I have a project from a long time ago remember on a light switch over there that's just a little servo so we're still connected here connect up it's a feather nrf 52 840 over there whoops no don't do that controller okay so there's my main lights off which helps block some of the background we were seeing there and I think I'm going to kill this one too try to point so we can see both the memento and the subject so I just have this little stop motion pop it over here so first of all if you look at the screen here I'll show you some images I'm going to just take yeah this is fine I'll take this so this is kind of dark oh you know what let me ought let me autofocus on that so if we hold this did I break autofocus I think I did okay these guys this guy's gonna be out of focus sadly what did I do to break autofocus that's no good so now it'll do is in the memento head over to you can see this I'm hitting the right button a few times to get to the LED level menu and then if you can see my little puppet there in the screen view he's brightening up significantly let me point the camera I don't think he'll be in great focus there but here's here's what we get from the little LED ring on there and we have five levels in here of brightness so you can see that puts a lot of light on the guy he's got some nice details on there so that means even though it's a pretty frontal light he's got I've got his head tilted so we get some some shadow in there so I can take a photo of him since I somehow broke the autofocus I won't get super close up on him so these these images unfortunately be pretty blurry of him but hopefully we can see the difference with this as far as noise goes I'm also going to just for arguments sake knock out this key light that I have things are getting dramatic okay I'll take another of him and then let's kill this overhead again this is just the little light coming off of here in fact is it's so close to him in fact we can blow him out if you look at that we switch the sorry I should have switched this long ago if you look at his look at his face there we get way too bright all right we're gonna lose detail because that thing if we get if we get real close so for the flowers macro photo I actually backed that down I think I had that on like a third level or the second level LED brightness what it means is I'm not blocking my lighting so turn this light back up I wanted a lot of light on those flowers right so I turned turn this back on I was hitting it from all sides I try to get some little back lighting that's why you can see those little fuzzy guys on the on the flower had some some strong back lighting there if you aren't careful you're gonna cast a shadow with the camera itself depending on where your light source is coming from so turn this off you can see there lights are off he's now in shadow right because I have a light source up there so turn this up we can fix that but we're still using all of that nice light we're also doing a little bit of bounce you can put bounce cards if you want white piece of paper will work fine piece of foil work but all of those things are gonna help you light everything but right in the front and so that little that little ring light right there works really well you can I also got a light here I didn't even turn it on but I've got a little LED panel light that takes camcorder batteries we can come give him like a strong edge light behind him sadly these are never going to be in focus because I just broke out of focus but I'll take a shot anyway so those are some of the techniques that I recommend you don't need anything super fancy as long as you can diffuse it so if you take a have one you take a can light like this just a little hardware store fixture and I've put an LED spot in it so it's pretty bright and it's also very direct so it's going to give us harsh shadows so you can do things like bounce that I'll turn off this one right here and grab a piece of paper so light is going to be hard when it is a small light source that's that's nearby in particular these right so we're getting really hard shadows on his face there so what I can do is I can effectively make this a bigger light source by pointing it away from him and at a piece of paper and so you can see how that softened up that nose shadow versus that now you're going to have to you're going to lose a ton of light right by pointing it here's a little better comparison so I'm kind of far away I'm still getting hard shadows I can get a similar amount of light there but it's it's effectively a bigger area so if you take a large white surface you can bounce some much more diffuse lighting you can also go through something this paper is not a not a great thing but this will this will also remove some of the the harshness of that but I like bouncing can bounce from below here which has a different look than pointing straight at it so that's a couple of techniques that you want to use but the the big one here is just you will get better results on the memento from what I've found by putting a lot of light into your scene another thing that you can do here these are good let me turn the LED ring back on here I'll put it pretty bright and then we can go and change the LED color let's go to maybe like a red okay actually oh that's good so it's dramatic it's also full front facing so what you you kind of want to do sometimes is bring that off to the side to get some kind of color contrast into the scene you can't really do that because this is bolted to the front of the camera except I came up with one trick here which is you can turn the camera off here for a second you can use a much longer JST cable and just take that faceplate off or use a completely separate LED ring neopixel ring that'll work fine too so here you can see this camera see a little better yeah like that so I've got a much longer cable here I can screw this I worked that down and I kind of like in this dramatic lighting here in the workshop I think harder to see things but so the front plate here is just a neopixel ring it's kind of the only thing it has is no other electronics there's no connections to anything on the board I think mine is also serving double duty of helping this battery not flop around because I didn't stick it to there but I'll hold on to that separately but now we can go and plug back in our JST cable to A1 on one end it's a nice long cable so we can plug into our Memento faceplate on the other end to that's the LED level let's see there I'll turn it on to pretty darn bright the colors are not as bright as white there's our purple now and now we can see it better through that camera now I can bring this off to the side so again if we're doing doing it macro we'll have this one locked down maybe you're doing a focus stack you'll hit go you don't have to touch this in fact you don't you don't want to but you can either lock this down into a separate thing or move it around you can you can do a time-lapse photo where you're just moving your light from from frame to frame so just keep your keep your hand out of the the actual picture there so those are some techniques that you can use to extend the use use of this you may have other neopixels and that would be more convenient than taking this thing off all the time but it's there in case you need it that's an option go back to full white on this because I think you can see it better so let's see let me know I can I'm gonna check the chat out let me turn this off let me know if you have any thoughts or questions on that I'm gonna check and see if you had during it there we go meanwhile I'm gonna plug this card in so we can look at our blurry pictures much better examples are going to be the ones I did in the guide and I didn't shoot a focus stack in here let's see tithe said that foamy guy was streaming and using this camera sensor the OB 5640 that's what's on the memento you could use that as a breakout module for other yeah for other micro controllers yes okay so let me just head on over to Photoshop here since it's an easy way for you to see what I'm opening off of the camera card there alright this one is sort of in focus so you can see here actually this is a good example of if someone was asking about the noise so the dark areas back there it's actually done oops it's done some higher gain than I probably want because it's averaging stuff in the middle so you if you're doing a focus stack you might throw away your first few photos by pointing them at something darker so you can get your get your lock on a better example than this bright stuff in the background here or dark stuff it was trying to light back here but yeah so that's that's some pretty typical noise that you'll see the let me see if I can find one that's brighter that lacks that yeah so this is a stark difference right it's actually a light itself in the scene but notice how it captured all of these back here without all of that noise on there so I really think that getting some nice strong lighting in the scene is one of the best ways that you can avoid that noise for good examples no okay yeah these didn't come out well because of my focusing issue sorry about that but those are the techniques I used for things like the flower macro that you saw there hopefully that's going to be helpful and alright so let's let me get the camera on here let's clear that stuff and then I just wanted to show you my little retro find restoration type of thing here bring to the world so we'll still use this camera to view this try to not lose those screws so this is a I'll set it yeah I think I'll set it facing me so that I can use this camera to show you so this is a lights photo mat it's a photo and larger it's not small it was broken down actually let me point at this camera first it was broken down and in a bin so you can see there's a long post here that has a plug this is a light socket so this is the light source for shining light through a negative film negative and then through a couple of lenses down onto some photo paper down here you can turn it on and off manually or more likely you plug it into a timer switch so that you can precisely control the amount of time that you're lighting it to expose the paper it also has a lens that does has an aperture on it so you can adjust the amount of light coming down from it and one of the really cool things about this one is that it has a sort of parallelogram mechanism here that keeps it pointing straight up and down as we raise it up and down and gets it away from the base so that we can enlarge really large if you've seen photo enlargers where the enlarger is connected right to the post you can only get so big for the lights going to start hitting here in the paper can't go so this is a nice design and this has sort of a follow focus mechanism which means if you bring it down real small and tight and focus it or bring it out to medium and focus it as you adjust it will there's a gearing in there that will adjust a lens to keep it in focus as it moves up and down which is pretty well so let me see if I can show some of the mechanism through this lens here rotating around staring into the sun so first of all it's a gorgeous made by the same company who make Leica cameras the lights company made in Germany I don't actually know a year on it I'm sure when this one is this is the focal matte one there's some little funny bent metal holders for your film so if you have a film a strip of film negatives that haven't been cut you pull them through and then your excess can kind of be draped in here your negatives have been developed at this point so they don't mind the light but your photo paper does so you'll typically have a red light photo safe red light in your in your dark room to develop so I'm going to do is plug this in I don't have any photo paper and I don't even have any negatives I do have one slide I hope it's still in here put it over there I have one slide so you can use it essentially as a projector so this is where your negative will sit sort of get locked in place there this lowers and then you can sort of clamp that down this is just going to give you a little space if you're pulling a negative strip through this releases the mechanism there actually lift this up high enough you can see a little light source speaking of light sources you can see this is the lens that the second lens that you can also adjust the aperture on you don't just focus with this but you can adjust aperture here and then this is your focus ring here so the only real practical demo I can do of it is to turn off a lot of lights and beam this film slide it's a positive color film slide actually of these two guys over they are I'm that they're actually vertically oriented so pulling that out and okay so I've just sandwiched my slide in here and I'm just going to put a white that white piece of paper down so hopefully we can see an image on there when I turn out the rest of the lights kill overhead moment in other lights okay so now what I can do is drop that down there let me reverse that just some guys out of the rain with umbrellas but you can see here if no if I'll be able to hold that steady enough and focus it gosh I need to different hands okay so it's actually not a very in focus photo this guy's in focus the guy's out of focus but the guy with a tie that we can see there he's in focus now and so if you were making like a I don't know a four by six you on a four by six piece of paper you'd have it set like that if you're doing a little wallet-sized one and you can see it stayed in focus as I did that so the amazing little mechanism on there you can see it's dimmer of course as we get farther away ladies amazing little mechanism on there is is geared properly so that it follow focuses as we're changing which is just dang cool camera doesn't so let's see can I do this okay now my arm is also part of the follow focus thing so a little hard to demo but very cool feature you can do very large enlargements too so that's that whole piece of eight and a half by eleven paper there and obviously at this size you would run the light longer you would spend more time getting that image onto the paper so that turns lights back on done the town all right this concludes the the retro gear find I didn't find it I just finally started putting it together because I've had it sitting in a bin for a long time okay lamps that it uses so I don't know I haven't used an actual enlarger to make a photo in about 30 years so I don't know what's proper and current the bulb that was in there looks like a GE 150 watt halogen I don't think that's proper correct I think it was meant or incandescent think it was meant to be 75 watt I have a big LED bulb in there just so that I could try stuff I don't have any idea what that would do if you're really trying to make some some photos with it so that'll be worth exploring I would like to get some some photo paper and some some negatives developed that I have in some film in some cameras and some film rolls from a long time ago and see what happens I will keep you informed but yeah it's a standard household light bulb threaded socket in there inside in fact I can show you look over here I just have a large turn that off switch there I have a large bulb in there but that's a standard household threading whatever that kind of call I can't remember and apparently that that idea was reading that idea of doing the follow focus so that as you change your enlargement size you're still that actually I think doesn't work that well in practice on a lot of enlargers this one I think was known to actually have been manufactured at a high enough level of quality and precision that it does work well and that's not surprising that that brand lights and Leica are very top-end quality machines so it does actually do well Edison screw thank you Andy Calaway that's an Edison screw we're talking about that's what it uses and it looks like some nice says he has an larger that uses a pretty common pH 140 all right maybe you can help me learn what I need to learn to get this going again that's the other questions so nice as a role I think that's another Swiss brand German brand what size negatives I don't know actually let's I did find the manual online so probably a lot of these questions can be answered this is that's what holds it so whatever size that is maybe 35 millimeter that is the little Kodak slide I happen to put in front of it that seems to fit roughly yeah it's pretty close as a little of the mat around that but I think that yeah that is is the right roughly the size there any other thoughts yeah 35 millimeter and Calaway says does it not need cooling for the light hitting the slide definitely not with my LED bulb but I wondered that too if you're using the proper light I'm guessing maybe that's part of why you don't just run it for a long long time and you you actually just run it on your timer to take your photo but you don't sit there and cook the cook this the thing or set it on fire it's a really good point you might be able to get a larger carrier that's what it's called yeah thank you I'm so glad someone in the chat knows actually the terminology and put these things are so let's see last last thing is I just wanted to say again if you are interested in getting a little bit of a discount in the store head on over to Adafruit.com throw some cool stuff in your cart and type in Slarpie the cursed coupon code type in Slarpie on the way out that'll get you 10% off that is good until midnight east coast time tonight and then it goes away I think that's it we'll probably continue some of the conversation over in the discord thanks everyone for stopping by thank you Davo Dessa, Johnny Bergdahl, DJ Jackson for jumping in over on the YouTube chat thank you thank you everyone who is watching and not in a chat hello and thank you and thanks for everyone in our discord it's great to hang out with you and play around with some cool stuff and now I'm gonna be I think I'll be back on Tuesday with a product pick of the week there's a chance I won't be doing this show next couple of weeks because I have some videos that I need to shoot and that's this might be part of the time that I'm doing that so I'll keep you informed on the blog and over in the discord the show may maybe go in dark for a little bit as I prep some videos for our unboxing of that's right you guessed it eight a box 21 no 23 what are we at 20 something I can't remember anywhere is it 21 I think it's a box 21 we've been shipping these out like crazy we have I think over 1500 of them Phil said yesterday so lots and lots eight a box is going out we have about that again still to get out into the mail and they will start to to arrive at people's doorsteps I know some people are getting them already thank you for not spoiling it for people who want to be surprised when they open the box but I am working on video stuff for an unboxing that'll be happening later next month so I'll keep you informed about that as well okay thanks everyone and I will see you soon don't forget to stop by to check out the other live streams we've got there should be some deep dive with Scott and foamy guy action coming up and tomorrow and Saturday and then we'll be back next week with all of our regular shows thank you so much everyone it's been great hanging out with you for a different industries I'm John Park this has been John Park's workshop bye bye