 The Air Force Civil Engineer Support Agency has developed the following video programs to support the Air Force Qualification Training Program. These programs cover step-by-step procedures for a specific task identified in the specialty training standard of the Career Field Education and Training Plan. These videos do not take the place of on-the-job training. They are not intended to replace the applicable technical reference. However, they are intended to enhance the on-the-job training process, standardize the training procedures, provide just-in-time training, and provide the minimum knowledge on a task or piece of equipment when a unit does not have the equipment. We hope you'll find these video programs a valuable training tool. This Civil Engineer Air Force Qualification Training Program videotape contains programs on Electric Drill and Rotary Hammer Drill. Electric drills are made by many different manufacturers. They come in a variety of sizes, quarter-inch, three-eighths-inch, half-inch, and larger. Many have special features such as two-speed, variable speeds, reversible, and keyless chuck. Most of us don't have the luxury of selecting the most appropriate drill for the job. We have one universal drill that will satisfy the majority of the tasks that we have to accomplish. Before attempting to use the Electric Drill, familiarize yourself with the manufacturer's owner's manual. This handy little guide will provide information on the operating features and identify safety requirements. Read this manual. Learn your drill's applications and limitations, as well as specific potential hazards related to it. Prior to operating the Electric Drill, there are a few items that must be checked to ensure proper operation. First is the extension cord that will provide power to the drill from the electrical outlet. The extension cord must be of adequate size to prevent voltage drop, loss of power, and overheating. If the cord is questionable, replace it. Now, let's take a look at the drill. The first thing to look for is the chuck key. Each drill comes from the manufacturer with a chuck key. In fact, most drills have a specific chuck key storage area. This may be somewhere on the drill or attached to a flexible rubber strap on the cord. If the chuck key is missing, do not use a substitute tool to try to tighten or loosen the chuck. A replacement key can be purchased from the local builder supply. It's a good idea to test the drill before you leave the shop. You don't want to arrive at the job site and find out your drill won't work. Squeeze the trigger switch and the drill should rotate either clockwise or counterclockwise. The direction the drill rotates is controlled by a selector switch that is located next to the trigger switch. This selector switch is commonly called the reversible switch. Move this switch to the normal operating position to force the drill to turn in a clockwise direction for drilling application. Prior to installing the drill bit, let's disconnect the electrical power. This way, the drill chuck won't rotate. Select the correct size drill bit for the task at hand. It must be installed in the drill chuck. Open or close the chuck jaws by hand to a point where the opening is slightly larger than the bit size you intend to use. Insert the drill bit into the chuck the full length of the jaws. Tighten the chuck by hand. To fully lock the bit in place, finish tightening the chuck with the chuck key. Place the key in any of the three chuck holes and tighten it in a clockwise direction. Don't forget to remove the key and place it back in its storage location for safe keeping. Rotate the chuck by hand and watch the drill bit to see if it rotates straight and true. Drill bits can be inserted and tightened in the chuck off-center. This will cause the bit to wobble and elongate the hole being drilled. A lot of new drills have a keyless chuck installed. To open, grasp the rear half of the chuck and rotate the front half counterclockwise until it will accept the drill bit. Insert the bit and close the chuck tightly by holding the rear half and rotating the front half clockwise. Materials to be drilled should be secured in a vice or with clamps to keep it from turning as the drill bit rotates. There is nothing worse than having the object being drilled spinning around on the end of the drill. Safety glasses, safety goggles, or safety shields should be worn when operating this tool. Failure to do so could result in objects being thrown into your eye causing possible injury. To ensure the drill bit drills at the exact location required, accurately measure and mark the location. Make a small indentation in the material to help keep the bit centered. To indent wood, use a scratch awl and for metal, a center punch will work fine. The drill may be angled to any angle if your particular application calls for that type of hole. Some drills even have a small bubble level on the top to help when drilling horizontal holes. Place the tip of the drill bit just above or beside the point to be drilled. Move the bit into the workpiece and depress the trigger switch to start the bit rotating. Apply only enough pressure to keep the bit cutting. Do not force or apply side pressure. Be prepared for binding when drilling through the back side of the material because the drill bit may grab and kick the drill back in the opposite direction. Keep the bit rotating clockwise and pull the bit back through and out of the workpiece until it is free. Or release the trigger switch and reposition the reversible switch to rotate the bit counterclockwise. This will cause the drill bit to walk itself back out of the hole just drilled. Whichever method is chosen, as soon as the drill bit is free from the workpiece, immediately release the trigger switch to stop bit rotation. If you have additional holes to drill, repeat the steps just covered. When drilling metals use a light oil on the drill bit to keep it from overheating. The oil will prolong the life of the bit and increase the drilling action. Heavier gauge metals may require a pilot hole to help drill the appropriate size hole. Drill a small diameter hole all the way through the metal first. Change the drill bit to the final size and continue drilling. Don't forget to lubricate the new larger bit. The pilot hole helps center the larger bit and reduces the amount of material the larger bit has to cut. Binding and breakthrough problems previously discussed are a little more prevalent when drilling metals. Stay alert and be prepared. It'll happen when you least expect it. After you've drilled all the holes, disconnect the electrical power from the drill to keep from accidentally starting. Loosen the jaw and remove the drill bit. If you've been drilling metal, the bit may be a little warm to the touch. Be careful. Drilling holes in metal can easily be accomplished if you follow the procedures just described. Take your time and don't hurry the drilling process and you'll produce far greater results. Operating an electric drill is not a complicated task if you familiarize yourself with the manufacturer's owner's instruction manual. Following the drill manufacturer's recommendation and adapting them to your particular situation will ensure a safe working environment and the proper use of the electric drill. This concludes the electric drill portion of the program. After a short intermission, we'll continue with the rotary hammer drill information. If you've been a civil engineer very long, you've probably had an opportunity to participate in a rapid runway repair exercise at one of the contingency training exercise sites. If not, you soon will. Structural personnel transport, assemble, install, and anchor the folded fiberglass mat crater cover. One tool that is used extensively in this process is the air powered rotary hammer drill. Using air tools on our daily jobs throughout the base isn't always that easy. To accomplish the really tough drilling jobs where an air rotary hammer drill or an electric drill can't be used, the electric rotary hammer drill is the answer. The electric rotary hammer drill incorporates the best features of the air rotary hammer and an electric drill. Electric rotary hammer drills are manufactured in various sizes. Sometimes the larger hammer drills are just too large for the task at hand. This program will cover in detail a small rotary hammer drill and introduce you to a larger version. With a smaller size rotary hammer drill, let's try this one more time. One of the hardest things to do is get people to read the operator's instruction manual. Don't assume that you know how to operate the rotary hammer drill. Read the manual. It'll provide information on the drill's capabilities and limitations. It will also address the potential hazards that you must be aware of. This manual will be helpful when ordering accessories and replacement parts. After you have read the operator's manual, put it back in the drill storage compartment for future use. When using any electric power tool, always follow the basic safety precautions to eliminate electric shock and personal injury. Do not use the electric rotary hammer drill in the rain, damp, or wet locations. These are just a few of the numerous safety precautions outlined in the Electric Rotary Hammer Drill Operator's Instruction Manual. We'll cover additional pertinent precautions as we proceed through this program. Before handling, adjusting, or assembling the rotary hammer drill, always unplug it from the electrical power source. This will prevent the drill from accidentally starting when you don't want it to. Operating the rotary hammer drill is a two-hand operation. A front handle can be installed and rotated for better control and leverage. To change the handle angle, loosen the clamping screw. Rotate the handle to the desired position, then re-tighten the clamping screw. The rear hand grip contains the on-off trigger switch for starting and stopping the drill. This drill can also be locked in the on position by depressing the lock button. To release the locked button, simply depress and release the trigger switch. A reversing lever is located next to the on-off trigger switch. This switch permits the drill to turn in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction. The drill must be stopped to change rotational direction. Depending on the type of work to be performed, the hammer drill must be set in either regular drilling or hammer drilling. When the action switch is in the hammer drill position, the hammering mechanism won't engage until pressure is applied to the bit. There's also a gear selection switch located on the side of the drill body. This switch controls the drill speed and torque. Small diameter holes should be drilled in setting number two, which provides for high speed low torque drilling. Setting number one lets the drill operate at slow speed with high torque to drill large diameter holes. The chuck may have to be turned slightly to fully engage the position selected. Let's take a look at the chuck and install a drill bit. There are two different types of bits used with this drill. The hammer drill bit for concrete is a little different from the regular wood or steel drill bit. To install the drill bit, turn the chuck counterclockwise to open the jaws wide enough to insert the bit shank. Place the bit between the jaws and push it down until it strikes the bottom of the chuck. Center the bit and tighten the jaws by hand. Place the chuck key in the chuck and turn it clockwise. Continue turning the key until the bit is secured in the chuck. Most manufacturers recommend tightening the chuck in all three positions or sides. Bit removal is simply reversing the procedures just covered. Do not use a wrench or screwdriver in place of the chuck key. The rotary hammer drill can be used on three different groups of material. Always wear hearing protection and safety glasses or goggles. Anyone in the immediate vicinity of the drilling operation should also take similar precautions. A dusk mask or respirator should also be worn if a dusty drilling operation is encountered. Our first application calls for securing a wooden sill plate to a concrete pad. The situation will demonstrate the versatility of this tool by drilling through two completely different types of material, wood and concrete. Accurately measure and mark the board where the hole is to be drilled. This location must fit within the edges of the concrete structure below. Install the wood drill bit into the drill chuck jaws. Rotate the jaws by hand until they close around the bit. Use the chuck key to tighten the bit securely. With your ear and eye protection in place, connect the electrical power to the drill. Position the drill bit on the mark and squeeze the trigger to start the bit rotating as you lower it into the wood. A little down pressure on the drill will help the bit cut right through. When the bit stops turning, lay the drill down and disconnect the electrical power. Loosen the chuck jaws with a key and remove the bit. Select the correct size concrete bit to match the anchor bolt and install it. A carbide tipped bit is required to drill in masonry. Don't forget to move the action switch from the drill position to the hammer drill position. Connect the electrical power back to the rotary hammer drill. Use the board just drilled as a template to locate the spot for drilling the concrete pad. This procedure helps ensure the exact location is found. Position the bit and start hammer drilling. High speed is usually more effective for this application. Hard material like this concrete requires quite a bit of down pressure. Damage to the carbide tipped bit will occur if the bit is allowed to spin in the hole without cutting. Dust may be a problem when drilling. Do not use water to settle the dust. The mud created will clog the drill bit in the hole. Do not attempt to drill through concrete with steel reinforcing rods. These rods can permanently damage the expensive carbide tipped drill bits. When you have finished all the drilling disconnect the power, remove the bit, wipe off the equipment, and secure everything back in the storage container. All that remains to be done on this project is to wipe the dust cuttings away, slide the board in place, and install the anchor bolt. Our next project calls for drilling several holes in masonry blocks. For this particular application we're going to install the front handle and the drill bit depth rod. These attachments will help stabilize the drill and control the drilling depth. The depth gauge rod mounts to the front handle clamp ring. After installing and tightening the drill bit, slide the rod into position and tighten the clamping screw to hold the rod in place. Drill depth is determined by measuring from the tip of the depth rod to the tip of the drill bit. Adjust the rod until it is set to the desired depth and tighten the clamping screw. All your safety equipment in place? If all the switches are in the correct position, connect the electrical power. Position the drill bit at the point to be drilled. Sometimes an indentation made with a punch will help keep the drill bit centered. Grasp both handles firmly and let the drill bit do the work. This drill is designed to achieve top performance with only moderate pressure. Continue drilling until the bit has reached the desired depth. The depth gauge rod will prevent over drilling. Keep the drill bit rotating as you pull the bit out of the hole just drilled. If you have a number of holes to drill, let the bit cool off a little before drilling the next hole. It will extend the life of these bits. Let's go back and finish the paint locker project we introduced earlier. Holes need to be drilled in the concrete to secure the locker. Measure and mark the location to be drilled. By now the setup and operation of the electric rotary hammer drill should be pretty repetitious. The depth gauge needs to be installed because we don't want to over drill the anchor bolt holes. Double check the action and speed switch to ensure they are set for this particular application. Install your eye and ear protection if you are not already wearing it. Notify anyone in the immediate vicinity that you are about to start drilling. Connect the electrical power. Hold the drill comfortably with both hands for better control. Start drilling slowly and as perpendicular as possible. This material is relatively easy to drill. Raise the bit out of the hole to help clear the dust and cuttings. Sometimes it is easier to drill kneeling down on one knee. The depth gauge stops the drill bit penetration, thus ensuring uniform depth on all holes drilled. All that remains to be done is to drill the two remaining holes for the other end of the paint locker and secure it to the concrete. As we mentioned earlier, the electric rotary hammer drill can easily accomplish most normal drilling operations. The selector switch must be in the drill position and always use regular drill bits. A small pilot hole is recommended. It will help guide the larger bit and increase its cutting efficiency. When drilling steel such as this building girder, a little lubricant on the bit will help the drilling process. Maintain a constant drilling speed. Drilling too fast may burn the bit. Take your time and the drill bits will last a lot longer. When drilling plastics, we must use a slightly different approach. Drill slowly. Drilling too fast may create too much heat and actually melt the plastic. What can we use when we need to drill a hole larger than the small rotary hammer drill can handle? We'll use a combination hammer and breaker. Our situation calls for drilling a hole in a concrete footer to install a door stop. The front handle is already installed. All we have to do is reposition it and lock it in place. This tool is capable of both chipping and drilling. Reposition the switch from the chipping mode to the drilling mode. The service switch is very similar to the speed switch on the smaller rotary hammer drill. Wipe off the drill bit shank prior to installing the bit to keep the dirt out of the chuck. Grasp the lower part of the chuck and pull it down. Insert and spin the bit until it slides into the chuck. Release the lower chuck to automatically lock the bit in place. Just to be sure it's locked, grab the bit and try to pull it out. This tool doesn't have a depth gauge, so colored tape has been placed on the bit to mark the required drilling depth. Eye and ear protection is definitely required because this drilling operation will kick up a considerable amount of cuttings and is quite noisy. When you're ready to begin drilling, let's close the storage case and move it out of the way. And the last step in this preparation phase is to connect the electrical power. Hold this tool as straight as possible and with both hands because it's heavy and a little awkward to handle. Down pressure is required to keep the carbide tipped bit cutting. Do not allow the bit to spin in the hole without cutting. Drill down a little and with the bit continuing to spin, pull the bit back out to help clear the cuttings from the hole. Continue drilling until the tape disappears into the cuttings. This will signify when the desired drilling depth has been reached. Remove the bit from the hole and place the drill off to the side. Cuttings that fall back in the hole are always a problem. A rubber squeeze bulb has been provided to help flush the cuttings from the hole. With the drilling complete, disconnect the electrical power. Remove the drill bit by sliding down the lower portion of the chuck and pulling up on the bit. Wipe the dust off the bit and store it in the drill case. Loosen and reposition the handle for storage. Wipe the tool off and store it for the next project. When you deploy to a location you've never been to, there's always a little anxiety for the unknown. What will I be doing here? Do I have the expertise needed to do the job? Did I bring the right tools to do the job? When you're out in the middle of nowhere, you are the expert and you have to make do with what you have. Help and resupply are days away. Bringing tools with a multifunction capability is always a smart move. An electric rotary hammer drill is a prime example. Whether you are drilling wood, steel, concrete, or plastic, this drill can do it all. This program was produced for Headquarters, Air Force Civil Engineer Support Agency, Operation Support Directorate, Training Division. We would like to thank the Air Force personnel of the 366th Training Squadron, Detachment 6, Naval Construction Training Center, Gulfport, Mississippi for their enthusiastic cooperation and support in the development of this program.