 You can see this power supply is way too short. We got this little energy conservation box that probably hadn't worked in 20 years in this unit that goes into here. So it comes from the power supply, makes a junction with this in here and then this supplies power over to the water heater. It is just to put a six foot whip, connect onto this box and bring it all the way straight to the water heater. I want to bypass this whole apparatus thing that's going on here. With the way my pipes are right here, I might not be able to get to this piece to take it off the wall, but this one I can definitely take off the wall. Two outside lines, this one. Go ahead and disconnect that, just conduit off, moving this nut to do is go ahead and pull this. Connection here and the connection here. Do it away with this middle section, which is a lot better. Tint to wire on a 20 amp water heater. You want to play it safe, go with a tent. And that's, it's okay. Right will go on the disconnect, mount the same way the piece was mounted. We got a little nut. I'll show you a picture over here in a second. Look at the place. Now this cord is actually going to be correct to top of my water heater off so that I can go ahead and install the whip to the water heater. Often what I'm going to do is mount it to the 90 and then screw the whole thing down on top of the water heater after this is locked down on these wires and I'm just going to kind of match up the colors. Now I've got a white wire here but what I'm going to do is use the red wire in the white that way my black's over here with this black and then I'll strip the ground, put the ground back here on this ground term making sure I don't cut any of the strands. I'm just basically cutting through the insulation. This is some pretty stiff wire so you really don't have to worry too much about it. Whenever you're wiring, I suggest replace your disconnect. Good shock. Make sure that you put your covers back on your disconnects. Alright so this is wired up so all we'll have to do when we're ready to fire this is plug in our disconnect. The water heater is still dry and I definitely don't want to turn it on. This unit is being stripped out all the countertops and faucets so there's no sense in turning water on right now until we get that done. Pretty much just like the disconnect except the only difference is there's a ground screw down inside of here that will need to cure this water heater with a ground. Always use your ground. Never skimp on using the ground. Of course on this one we got a red and a black coming for the water heater. We've got a red and a black coming from the disconnect so it's just a matter of matching our wires up. I just want to cut the insulation just enough to be able to strip it back. Again like I said, red to red. Wires if they're loose inside of this wire nut are going to burn it and secured. Once you do that very you don't want to skimp on. Make sure that you get all your covers and everything in place in place first. I want to make sure that there's no access for anybody to be able to get electrocuted or shocked on any of your wires. Do it in place. It's sealed. There's the wires hanging out. All the covers are in place. Everything is tight and secure. Got that cover back in place. So all we need to do now is when we get water to the water heater we're able to power it up and have hot water for this apartment. I hope this little series has been helpful to you. We just wired up this water heater after we went ahead and piped everything in. Hey this is Dan Giles. I'll see you in the next video.