 Today we're repairing a Sony PVM8044Q high resolution Trinitron CRT video monitor. This monitor was produced back in 1993 so it does have a quite a few issues in it and today we're going to go through and we're going to troubleshoot those issues a little bit. So just to give you a little background on this particular brand of monitors this would have been used more or less in video editing situations or production situations such as you know a old TV studio or maybe if they were shooting something outside with video equipment. One of the great things about this line of PVMs is they accept just about any type of analog video input. I mean it could be from different regions it could be any type from AV to S video to RGB or component and it pretty much accept any kind of video signal that's analog that you can put into it. It also has a plethora of ways you can power it. There are actual battery packs for this monitor and it also has a DC power input on the back so you could power it with a DC power supply or you can use the regular AC power input on the back too but all in all it's just a great versatile monitor and perfect for what it would have been used for back in the early 90s which would have been again that film production and video production in either a studio or out in the field somewhere. So that should be enough of an introduction today. If you want to find out what's going to happen to this particular PVM I'll let you know later on in the video but let's go ahead right now and jump into the repair. So I've already removed the shell and the problem here is when I hit the power button I just get nothing and so nothing no signal no little light nothing on my screen just no power whatsoever. Next I'm going to open the sides here so that we can see what's going on and inspect from above. Normally each one of these boards has a screw right here and one right here but I've gone ahead and removed those and it's got a push portion up here on the top of each side so that you can let the sides of each board down. So do that on this side and the other side. Here's the top view of our monitor and I want to just go over a couple of quick things. First off on the design of this CRT you'll notice the anode actually goes into the side of the CRT instead of the top on these smaller monitors that's common. The second thing is you've got a shielding here covering your deflection yoke then your tube goes down in here into your neck board that goes off into the color board and then over here on the left is our kind of our power input and then the power boards are kind of scrambled around. This over here is a power supply the power actually comes in the backboard here where the inputs are and it moves from there over into our main deflection board back here and then into the other boards to straight out of the power supply. So there's a couple things we should check first off to try to see about power but I've gone through and I've trouble shot a lot of this ahead of time so I'm going to walk you around what I've done. First off I went in here and I inspected to make sure everything was properly connected and it all was so there wasn't any disconnections or anything like that. There's a fuse down in this area by the button right back here so I checked that for continuity and it was good and then there's another fuse over here on our deflection board right here so I checked this with my multimeter for continuity and it is good. So after that I went and started to think that I should probably try to send some power into the monitor which I did I sent a power in through the back like you normally would and then right over here on the deflection board down here on the deflection board towards the back we've got our power that's coming in from our power line over here off the boards basically coming straight from the wall and then this one right here is our AC current and it's split down into step down into 15 volts and then a ground. This right here is the DC power so we're not really concerned with it. We're gonna look at the AC current coming in here and there are a couple spots I'll show you on the back. Alright so there's a 15 volt plus or minus coming off of this IC right here and so I used my ground and my live lines here from my test meter and I measured that and I wasn't getting any voltage readings whatsoever with the monitor powered on and so that meant no power was getting through here so that made me think that our main power supply in here probably has a problem in it. Here's this power supply and it's most likely our issue something's gone wrong inside of it and so we'll need to replace it or repair it. Alright I'm taking the power supply out I need to start by removing this screw right here and this screw right here and I can loosen these cable holders right here so you get them out of the way and you disconnect the top connection and then disconnect the bottom connection and that's all that's connected into this power block right here so once you remove those screws you can literally just lift it up and it'll come right out and here's the power supply. There's not a whole lot to it. There are some capacitors in there and one of them is probably going bad maybe a resistor but maybe in a future episode we can take this apart and repair it but today we're lucky and we're going to just swap this part out with a working one. Thankfully I have a spare backup one of these that came from a PVM 8040. Alright so I'm just re-tightening my screw here after I've installed my power supply and now we'll reconnect it or we'll connect it with the same connections that we disconnected on the old power supply just those two points and we can put the cables back on there like that and that's pretty much all there is to it for reinstalling the power supply now we can put the monitor back together and run some more tests. Alright the new power supply is in everything's put back together I've inspected everything again and we're going to see now if we can get this to power on and yes we have green and I can hear the CRT engaging so that is a really good sign exactly like I thought that's that little power supply must have an issue in it and let's see if we can get something going into the screen. Alright here's a screen it's an RGB and it's the test pattern from Artemio. The problem here is that I can already tell by looking at this we don't have any red color coming through I don't think green blue white no red and I've been messing around with it everything's plugged up correctly it just appears that the red color is out which can happen on these tubes from time to time you can lose a color so unfortunately I feel like this is probably lost its red color in the tube and so we'll probably need to try a different tube and get this tube and probably the flyback out of this one thankfully again I have an 8040 that I can use the tube and flyback from it with this monitor and hopefully we can get a full color spectrum on here because we've gotten this far we might as well try to get the thing working all the way see on the outside we're not seeing any of that red and so I you know I did check the neck board and the areas on the color board to make sure that you know nothing was faulty there weren't any traces that appeared to be messed up and especially no cold solder joints or anything like that continuity tested really good on the connection points and even the components all look to be in good shape so I don't think it's a component issue I just believe that the tube is probably either damaged or worn out here we are again looking at the deflection flyback side of this monitor and what I need to do is I need to get the tube out but this tube you can see it has been silicone or epoxy or something adhesive is actually holding this flyback anode cap to the tube so thankfully I have the whole tube replacement with the flyback attached to it from again another messed up 8040 what I need to do is I need to get this tube out and then put that other tube in here and it's actually a little bit easier than it may look so first off we're going to take this screw out right here it's the only screw on the flyback board and then we will disconnect this connection point this one which is our degaussing coil and there's another one back under here that will disconnect we do not have to disconnect this one because it's to the yoke so it can stay and then obviously the anode flyback transformer red cable can stay and we'll actually disconnect these two which I'll show you we're going to remove this board the CA or the neck board we're just going to slip it back and out of the way so this flyback board will just lift up and be loose and so will everything else back here but that way I can remove the front here and the tube which I'll show you and we can just pull it all out and one easy pull and leave it together and then hopefully put a whole assembly back in and just use our original neck board and all the other boards just not the flyback or the tube now over here are two screws you remove these two screws on both sides and this whole assembly which is your bezel and pull mounts this will all pull right off easily you'll see that next when I get the donor tube ready but this pulls out and then we've got some bolts to pay attention to here so we can get the tube and everything else out so over here we have our disassembled monitor without the tube in it and then if we look over here this is the bad flyback or not bad flyback just the bad tube the flyback so good so we'll save this and hold on to it but I just want to show you how it came out in one solid piece and what I'm going to do now is I will give you a closer look at me taking out the donor tube out of the 8040 we'll take the bezel and then the tube out and then pull out the flyback board and assembly first things first on the flyback it's pretty darn filthy but we're gonna go ahead now and remove it what I want to do is to begin with is I'm gonna pull these just off right there the white one goes on the outside and then the other black cable goes on the inside it's fine to be a little forceful but those just come right off right there and we'll clean this up once we get it out but that's how you get that portion off and then right down here is that Phillips head screw to remove so we'll remove that in these connection points all four screws have been removed so now the bezel will just come right off and all that holds the tube in are these bolts in the corners there's four of them two on each side usually aren't even that tight you can usually undo them without even a real heavy-duty wrench they just kind of hand tight on there so take those out and then we'll be ready to remove the tube and flyback everything is loose slide this out carefully okay a lot of the cable is out of the way but I'm gonna go ahead now and put this tube back in here with its flyback assembly we're gonna get this set in here and hopefully it'll power up and work but just be gentle slide this board back in there snap it down okay so now that's tightened them back in place we can reconnect our neck board and then we'll reconnect our flyback and then we'll connect all the cables into the flyback board our new tube installation is complete see I've connected my flyback to my neck board member whites on the outside the dart cables on the inside and then we connect our make sure our connections over still solid on our neck board here we put back into place bolted down this board connected all the connections there checked all the connections in the rest of the monitor and it's ready to go for some test runs so we'll get set up and put a signal into it hey so if you're like me there's a possibility you may have a collection of these old school Game Boys and Game Boy Advances and Neo Geo Pockets and other hand held retro consoles I wanted to tell you about a channel called Macho Nacho Productions my buddy Tito maybe you've already seen some of his videos he does some incredible stuff pretty much dedicated to handhelds and testing a lot of the mod kits and things that are available especially the upgraded screens that you can now get for these things which you definitely probably want to look at if you're going to actually use your handheld to play some games on because it's very difficult to look at those old school screens sometimes and it's not like an old CRT or anything but the other thing is is that Tito is the one that actually is getting the monitor that's being repaired in today's video so you may even get a chance to see this in upcoming videos that he is working on but either way thanks again Tito for picking up the monitor and definitely go check out Macho Nacho Productions I'll leave a link to his channel in the description here below all right yeah we did it we saved another CRT this one's got it all it's got red it's got green and it's got blue the tube transfer appears to be a complete success and has been working wonderfully now for hours we just have a couple things to tidy up on this repair and then we'll be ready to go and get this into Tito's hands however before we finish our reassembly I want to show you some of the calibrations on this little screen and we're going to use our Tino's 240p test suite and this is by far the best set of test patterns that you could ever have or need for calibration on any old school CRT or analog video system that you want to check out this has everything you need in it and I'm just going to roll through some geometry screens as well as our color test screen so you'll be able to get an idea for how great the screen looks now once it's been recalibrated and we have each color beaming brightly onto that lovely Trinitron aperture grill I just want to say this one more time please go check out the link in the description of this video to get more information on this calibration test suite it's free it's amazing it's the best thing you're gonna find for your PVM BVM whatever kind of retro CRT you like to use now let's get in here and finish our reassembly we're gonna reconnect our tally light with the cable that's coming from our main color board and then we're gonna flip our bezel around and slip it over the tube and carefully slip it over all the buttons at the bottom of our button board reinstall the four black Phillips head screws two on each side and your bezel is complete then you can move on to your sideboards slip those into place making sure that they clamp in on the sides and there are also two screws for each one of those boards to be secured to the main frame all right everybody we're down to our final step here which is to simply put our shell back on after it's been cleaned that is held into place with Phillips head screws generally there are four chrome Phillips head screws that go into each side of the shell and that's all that secures that shell to the main monitor these smaller PVMs were built rather hardy or sturdy you might say and frankly they had to be they usually were rented by companies and tossed all over the place they tended to take quite a beating in their lifetime so it's not very often that you find one in perfect or pristine condition anymore this one did have a bit of smudgy adhesive still left on the bezel that I ultimately could not get out it chemically bonded with the bezel but otherwise it's a very pristine unit Sony spent decades as the industry leader with its CRT product the Trinitron today these beautiful Trinitron screens are sought after by retro gamers and analog video enthusiasts not only because of their vivid colors and ability to display analog videos so crisp and perfectly but also since they have zero input lag and that's a perfect recipe for any retro gamer looking to relive a little nostalgia in 240p I'm Steve and I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content