 All right, so we got a walking cooler that's not working very well, she said. So, got a packed full coil. This contraption, I don't know what in the world happened with this. So I'm gonna go in here and take a look at the inside. Okay, so it's pretty warm. Marking, can't tell if it's cool or warm. All right, so let's go and get this thing apart here. Got some issues, so I'm gonna have to kill power too so we can test that out. That coil, like I said, it's pretty packed, full of crud. It definitely helped me a whole lot. Passenger, got some issues, looks like, is no good. And generally what I've noticed is when Stark Pastor pad, a lot of times, the Stark Relay has caused it to go bad. Doesn't have bleed resistor on it either, which helps prevent wear and tear and arcing on the Stark Relay. Doesn't stop it completely, but it helps. That's no good. As you can notice, that's not doing so good. And it's had issues before, so they've made some repairs. What in the world is this hokey pokey stuff? What in the world? It looks like they spliced it with this. Frickin' soldering iron or some crap. How much effort would it take to cut it here and stick it underneath there? Switch right there, that light gauge one. This is your fan cycle. Coming in, getting power on the one, coming back. Actually, I would assume it's probably coming to there. Got it so hot that it's like such bad shape. That's really fantastic. Let's see if it's gonna be better. Better wiring underneath there. That was long enough to run, wasn't it? Now we got that all jacked up. Now we gotta get some short wire. Well, it's good, just run a new wire to it. I have tempted not to screw with that just because I'm afraid it might break on me and supposedly they're trying to keep the cost down. They got us 108 to 130 pasta here with the resistor on it. I got some new wire nuts. Okay, and so here's the solenoid. That's being powered from thermostat inside, probably off the fans, I bet ya. Can't quite make it out cause you got all these different conduits going back and forth. So we've crimped a new connector on there. Used a connector, it's usually good for 14 of the max but we got a 12 gauge wire there. I went with this because it's a little smaller and basically didn't want to have any more room being taken up in there than what's already being done. So we got that on there. We get this back underneath our clicks on here. See if there's correct enough some of this wire. I would like to just be able to wire nut all that together cause it's just a freaking mess, honestly. Okay, we got all that cleaned up. So it's a little easier to kind of follow than that mess they had before with everything eating all the space up in this little box in here. That's going to give me a lot more room to do whatever needs to be done. Now that's kind of bothersome. That common wire there is loosened up. I'm a little bit worried that that screw is going to be unable to keep me kept tight. That's another reason why I want to see this start components replaced cause that just bothers me that it's probably not any good. So we're just going to kind of get everything in position so that if we need to put the cover on which I'm hoping we will, we'll be able to do our thing. All right, so, is it running? We've got this mineral oil. I feel the vibrating, that's a good sign. It's also getting, it looks like it's starting to rain too. Really pulling six amps, that ain't all bad. Makes me feel a little bit better about the wires and stuff being so small. Cyclast looks like it's full. Fan's running. She said go ahead and put the fan cycle switch on there so we go ahead and get one of those on. If we've got a spot right here, we can get it. I'd really like to see a better box on this thing. It's kind of a mangroided mess that they got. It appears without being probably an R22 system, so I'm going to guess the freaking thing's bad. It's a little difficult to, well, let's go ahead and see if we can crank it in and see if it shuts the system down. Sounds like it's trying to pump down. It'd be nice to have this kind of box out here. Yeah, it's not good. I'm going to shut this thing down. Okay, we're going to open this up, see if we hear the refrigerator let go. Kind of tells us whether it worked or not for the pump down. You know, of course the solenoid's not energized now either. Still, it should have heard something let go. I have a bad feeling about this. I have a bad, let's see if I can get this correct. Should be this way. It's kind of upside down. See what you get. That's good. So there's no pressure there. So does that mean the system's completely flat on refrigerant? That's what I'm starting to wonder. So now we might have an issue with refrigerant on top of all the other issues that we got. Wouldn't that just be fantastic? That'd be fantastic. I'm going to turn it on and see what happens. Because with that being like it is, it should pull into a negative. Let's go see what happens. All right, so it's not pulling down. She said it all just worked the other day, Saturday. This is a couple of days ago. I can see I'm getting nothing on this port. Really wish I knew for certain that I had an actual port that was working. This just makes no sense. It should be pulling to a negative. There should be something going on here. That's not pumping. So what better way to find out if there's some refrigerant in this thing since I can't really just punch a hole into it and check it real quick. Let's loosen up this receiver and see if I can get a little bit of a hiss. And if I do, I know I got refrigerant. If I don't, then it's probably flat on charge or flat on charge. Yep, no refrigerant. And it's not pumping. So if I start that up, it should start pumping out. And I bet it's not. We got this ring on this light mist is not a good time to try to open up a system. I'm gonna kick that thing on. We'll see whether or not. Yeah, cause the compressor's not pumping either. I bet you anything. It's no six. Let's turn it on real quick so it happens. Yeah, it's not pumping. There should be something coming through there. There's not. We should be able to valve this off and it should suck my gauge into a negative, which I should be sucking it into a negative right now anyway. But it's not, it sounds like it's pumping. I bet it's twisted off the shaft or something. I don't know. I don't know what the normal amperage is on this thing without looking it up. All right, so we need to find the leak before we could even quote, fairness thing, so we don't know what we're getting into here. We're just gonna throw some cheap refrigerant in here since it's not really gonna be running just for leak testing. A little touch in here. It's the solenoid valve's easier to get to. We're gonna put our magnet on it. Yeah, let a little bit of pressure through. That's nice. That's not leaking from the, that's nice. So does it leak if you, nice. Yep, it went through, good. So yeah, our pressure's partially, there we go. Went there and there. So we got the nitrogen on there, got the tools away, because like I said, it's getting freaking water everywhere out here. So go ahead and get that up. So she's going nuts, leaks in here. Had to turn the fans off to get anything in there. So here's where cloud hunting mode comes in handy. It says on this direction, what do you think? All right, up there with the TXV. It's probably so contaminated in here that it can't get a reference background. Yeah. It's so contaminated, just leave the door open. Going nuts up here in the coil area, that's not good. So with as contaminated as this room is, you're not able to narrow it down very well. This is such a small room, as you can see, it's not very big. So I'm gonna go grab the ultrasonic and freaking drill. Not the greatest condensate marine system is it? Oh, look at there, it looks all oily. Also lets me know what kind of refrigerant is while we're at it. All right, so here we go. Bring this bad boy in here. I'd say it's right there. What do you think? 2,700 right there. Yeah, don't like it. Now the nice thing is, this being infrared, like it is, it's not gonna hurt that sensor. This is heated diode, you just burned her up. So at this point, we're gonna, we can probably narrow it down with the headphones here. Nothing there, so it must be in the coil. So I'm gonna go back and grab my stuff again, start searching some more. I manually zeroed it out. And it sounds like it's right in there. It's not going off where we thought it was originally, but manually, sounds like it's right in that area. So you got right there, finally found it. Had to take it down to 10 pounds of pressure to get it, but it must have been bouncing the noise off of here, but if you remember, that's where the detector went nuts, was about in this ballpark. So, yep, that's not gonna be a lot of fun. Basically, it was leaking so badly that it was bouncing the noise ultrasonically off the aluminum panel on the side. That makes it very difficult to narrow it down even ultrasonically. And I had, you know, about, at that point, probably 75 to 100 pounds of pressure on it. I had to take it all the way down to about 10 pounds of pressure before I was able to actually get it bubbled. Because what you run into is the pressure just blows the soap right off. Well, and because it was such a large leak, it was contaminating the whole area. And even though that detector's built for it, it still had a fit trying to narrow it down because there was just too much. What I did is I lowered the pressure down low enough that we finally could control it. And it's leaking on the distributor too, which is not fun to braze at all. Especially with that old recopper brass. It does not play well when you're trying to do it because you're gonna heat all of them up. It can be repaired. I would probably try to just do over top of it with good fluxing and cleaning it up with wire brush wheel and all that. I've done them before and you are gonna get yourself into a hell of a mess. So that wraps that one up for today. The compressor, I ended up running it where I had the lady flip it on while I was out there. And I heard it now. You could hear it at the end go brrr. You'd hear it spin internally. So it snapped off. Now the low pressure switch obviously doesn't work, which is why it cycled so many times. So it has a low bad pressure switch. It needs a fan cycle switch. It needs a new compressor. It needs to change it over from R22. So it's gonna need a new TXV. The coil needs to be repaired. And my feeling is, and it leaks on the service valve on the receiver. And that receiver is welded directly to the service valve. So it can't just be unboldened. So you need a new receiver. My feeling is just change the whole freaking condenser and get one with a headmaster on it. But at this point, they're dead in the water. They already had the cooler emptied out. We're gonna have to quote it, find out what's the best match for it and give them the options of repair, replace the outside, repair the inside, whatever they wanna do. So that wraps it up guys. Thanks for coming along. If you liked the video, you know what to do. So until next time, we'll catch you on the next one.