 Bonjour et bienvenue, this is La Madalise and welcome back again to my channel. I am thrilled to be back after a two month long hiatus. Taking breaks is very important for me and for my mental health but now I am really really excited to be back and to give you guys a new tutorial. In today's tutorial, we are going to learn how to draft the basic torso foundation. For those who are new to my channel, I have previously created videos on drafting a basic torso block, however this method is the one I always use for my garments and it's time to share it with all of you. And by the way, I've also created a woman's measurements chart on Google Sheets and you can find the link in the description box below. And do not forget to make a copy of the file for your own reference and so that you can use this chart for your own measurements or even for your client's measurements. Anyway, let's get started. Full bust measurement. Take the full bust circumference, ensuring you measure around the fullest part of the bust and pass through the bust apex and keep the tape measure parallel to the ground. Waste measurement. Measure the smallest circumference of your body in some cases the waist aligns with the level of the navel. Full hip measurement. This is typically located approximately 22 centimeters below the waist. Measure the circumference of the widest part of the buttocks. Mid hip or first hip. The mid hip is typically located approximately 9 centimeters below the waist. Front waist length. Measure from the center of the collarbone to the front waist level or the navel. Back waist length. Measure from the nape of the neck to the back waist level. Bust distance or bust value. Measure the distance between both bust apexes or nipples. Bust point or bust length. Measure from the shoulder neck point to the nipple or bust apex. Neckline circumference. Measure the circumference of the neck passing the tape measure through the collarbones. Shoulder length or shoulder slope. Measure from the base of the neck shoulder neck point to the tip of the shoulder joint parallel to the armpit. Front chest or cross front. To obtain the front chest measurement, begin 7 centimeters down from the center of the collarbone and measure across from both armpit canals. Back chest or cross back. To measure the back chest, start 15 centimeters down from the back neck bone or nape and measure across from both armpit canals. When you have finished recording your measurements, remember to also note the one half and the one fourth measurements as indicated on the chart. We will rely heavily on the one half and one fourth measurements during the drafting of our basic torso foundation. Now let's proceed to draft our basic torso foundation. To begin, draw an L square on the left side of your paper. Next, mark in one half of the full hip measurement plus 3 centimeters. And square a line completing our frame for the pattern. From the hip line, mark up the waist to hip measurement and square a line. This is the waistline. From the waistline, mark down the waist to mid hip measurement and square a line. This is the mid hip level. From waistline at center front line, mark up the front waist length measurement. From the waistline at center back line, mark up the back waist length measurement. Next, let's work on the front neckline. First, extend the front waist length line approximately 9 cm. And from center front line, at front waist length line, mark in the front neck width. And continue on marking in the front neck width measurement. And square line. Next, mark up the front neck height on this line. From the front neck height line at front neck width, mark up the front shoulder base measurement. Next, extend a line from the front shoulder base mark approximately 15 cm. From the front neck height mark, mark out the shoulder length measurement. And connect these two marks creating a slope for the shoulder. From center front line, at hip line, mark in one half of bust value measurement. Mark this measurement before reaching the front neck line. And square a line. This is the bust value line. From shoulder neck point, mark in the bust point measurement touching the bust value line. Next, measure the distance between the bust point till the waistline and record. Next, mark up this measurement from the waistline. And continue on marking this measurement until the center back line. And square a line. This is the bust line. And do not forget to draw a circle on the bust point for reference. Next, extend the back waist length line approximately 9 cm. And from center back at back waist length line, mark in the back neck width measurement. And continue on marking this measurement. And square a line. And from this line, mark up the back neck height measurement. Next, measure the distance between the back waist length and the bust line. And get its half. And mark up the half of this measurement from the bust line. And square a line. This is the chest or the cross line. From center back line, mark out one half of the back chest measurement. And square up a line. From this line, mark up the back shoulder waist measurement. From back shoulder waist mark, extend a line approximately 4 cm. And from shoulder neck point, mark out the shoulder length measurement touching the back shoulder baseline. And draw a slant line from shoulder neck point till the mark creating a slope for the shoulder. And next, from center front line, mark out one half of the front chest measurement. Now let's proceed to the hip line. At hip line from center back, mark out one fourth of the full hip measurement minus 1 cm. At hip line from center front, mark out one fourth of the full hip measurement plus 1 cm. Now let's proceed to the bust line. From center back at bust line, mark in one fourth of the full bust measurement. And from center front at bust line, mark in one fourth of the full bust measurement plus 2 cm. Next, draw slant lines connecting back hip and back bust marks. And front hip and front bust marks creating the side seam lines. At the waistline, measure the distance between front side seam and center front and record. And at the waistline, measure the distance between back side seam and center back and record. So this is the waist measurement I got from my pattern. Next, I will prepare or get the one half measurement of the full waist. Whatever the measurement we got from the pattern, we will subtract this measurement with the one half measurement of the full waist, like the example below. And I will use this 11.4 cm for the waist starts and this measurement will be evenly distributed to contour the waist. Mind you that my result is different from yours. This is from my own pattern and this is only an example result from my pattern. So this is how we will distribute the measurement for the waist starts. We will take the 10 cm and distribute this measurement evenly. And on the chart, this is the default measurements for each waist start. So the remaining measurements should be evenly distributed on the side seams by dividing this measurement by 2. From center back at waistline, mark out 1 cm. From center back dart, draw a slight curve line till the hip line. From center back dart at waistline, mark out 8.5 cm. And from this mark, square down a line till hip line. This is the mid-back line. From mid-back line at waist, square in and out 1.5 cm each side. And from hip line at mid-back line, mark up 9 cm. And draw the dart lines for the mid-back dart. Next, get the halfway between the mid-back dart and backside seam and mark. And from this mark, square a line till bust line and mid-hip line. This is the side back line. From side back line at waist, square in and out 0.5 cm each side. And draw the dart lines for the side back dart. From bust value line at waistline, square in and out 1.5 cm each side. And from hip line at bust value line, mark up 6 cm. And draw the dart lines for the front dart. Next, get the halfway between the bust value line and front side seam and mark. From this mark, square a line till bust line and mid-hip line. This is the side front line. From side front line at waist, square in and out 1 cm each side. And draw the dart lines for the side front dart. On each side seam at waist, I am going to mark in 0.7 cm. From this mark, I am going to draw a curved line till the hip line and a slant line till the bust line as shown. And these are my back and front side seams. Next, mark in the halfway of the back shoulder length. And from this mark, draw a slant line towards the first dart line of the mid-back dart as shown. Next, measure the distance between the bust line and the chest line. And from the chest line, mark down the 1.4 measurement between the chest line and bust line. And draw the dart lines to complete the mid-back dart. Next, from center back dart, draw a slant line towards the chest line at center back. Next, from bust point at bust value line, mark down 2 cm. And draw the dart lines towards the 2 cm mark to complete the front dart. From the waist line at side seam, mark up the waist to underarm measurement. From the bust line, square up line till the waist to underarm line to complete the side seams. From underarm at side seam, mark in 1 cm each side. Next, draw the front and back armholes. Next, mark in the halfway of front shoulder length. From the halfway mark of the front shoulder length, draw a slant line towards the bust point. From the halfway mark at shoulder, mark out the shoulder bust dart opening. And from this mark, square down again a slant line towards the bust point. Next, let's close the shoulder bust dart temporarily. And let's redraft the front chest, front shoulder base, and front shoulder slope. Using a tracing wheel, trace the shoulder bust dart. And draw the lines for the dart. And next, re-draw the front armhole like so. And lastly, draw the front and back necklines. A boat-shaped neckline for the back. And a half moon-shaped neckline for the front. Anyway, guys, I hope this tutorial gave you enough tips on how to draft the Basic Torso Foundation. And if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to comment down below and I will reply as soon as possible. And if you like this video, give it a huge thumbs up. And if you super like this video, give me a super thanks. And if you're not subscribed yet to my YouTube channel, Lamo Delist, make sure to hit that subscribe button and I will see you guys again on the next tutorial. A bientoooo!