 also a bit of rendering and visualization, but recently I've been allotting to 3D printing for the past year and a half. So this is my Twitter, my email, it doesn't work. We have to wait a bit. And I'm not Greek, I'm Polish. It's just the first two letters of my name. I get a lot of Greek emails though because of that, I guess. Okay, so I will start with a short introduction to 3D printing and I will give you some short history and I'll break down the types of different machines that we can use, because I think it's very important that we know what machine are we doing, what are we working, machine are we going to print our prints on, our designs, because there are some differences. Okay, so what is 3D printing? 3D printing or you could call it another manufacturing method is a method of manufacturing layer by layer. So I've created a small render here which shows you roughly what happens when you print on an FDM printer. So if you print in plastic, like these kind of objects here. So what happens is you start at the first layer, it prints a shell around the whole object. That's where it looks pretty and inside it's a mesh, so you don't waste too much material. Kind of a support mesh. Okay, and this object here on the left can be 3D printed as well, but I just gave it as an example, it's more complex and there are some constraints I will talk about later. Okay, so just a quick history. So 3D printing is not new at all. It's been first attended in 1984 with a stereolithography printer that uses liquid. That's where the SDL came from as well. The format name is from the stereolithography printers, the method. So the applications, there's a wide area of applications pretty much in every industry that uses a bit of design, uses any kind of devices, there is always going to be someone that used 3D printing to create something. Obviously from prototyping, to creating our final products, I've seen people using 3D printing medicine as implants. Yes, I have a question. There are a lot of uses I will talk about later and if you want to add something, actually if you want to add something to what I'm talking about, you can go ahead, I want it to be an open session because I had a half an hour slot, so I'm gonna talk maybe for 40 minutes and try to be a bit slower. So 3D printing versus 3D printing manufacturing, it's the same thing in the end, but the two terms are used in different areas. So 3D printing is used by hobbyists and plastic staff that you just print for fun while additive manufacturing is more used for the professional kind of applied applications like in motor industry and medicine, they call it additive manufacturing because it sounds different. So just a quick, because everyone's talking about 3D printing, everyone thinks it's really cool and that you can print anything, which is not exactly true and we are currently consumer 3D printing is at the peak of the hype cycle. So everyone is excited, but we are going to see some decline and people will wake up and realize what can be done, what cannot. So try to point out some things, we have to keep in mind, if we want to design something to be 3D printable, we will have to take into account some constraints and some physical constraints that will make us, it will cause us problems and we have to be really patient with 3D printing, really patient. So just quickly, some pros and cons. So like I've said before, the technology is improving and it's beginning to be used in so many industries around us everywhere. One of cool things about 3D printing that wastes less energy for small scale manufacturing, we can quickly prototype, create cheaper products, which are more economical as well, you don't create useless molds for that every time, you just print a design and you can have five iterations in one day. So it's faster than traditional manufacturing because just for prototyping, because you don't have to create the molds, which would take months and the process is just crazy. Obviously gives you freedom of creation, it's very customizable or custom products, so anything that is on this table, I don't think there's a second item on the, actually, yeah, maybe accepts the hand because that's from Thingiverse, but all of the objects are designs that are made by me except the hand and there is not a second one on earth that's exactly the same. So, and the most importantly, the community is really great. Oh yeah, it's working, I was working. Okay, so the community is really great, the people around 3D printing are very passionate and very enthusiastic about the whole technology and they range from very techy people and very, no? Oh yeah, I have static hands. I'm not touching the button, I just turned it off and on because it, yeah? Yeah, it's low battery, so I don't have static hands. Okay, and the minus is the B size of 3D printing is the speed and resolution for a high amount of production if you want to produce, let's say phone cases, it's going to take you like an hour or something to print you one case at high resolutions. You cannot sell that, you cannot really, yeah, I can, oh, no, I have to get back to it, I guess. So, like I said before, you cannot print anything, there's some limitations in physical limitations and also in materials. You are limited by plastic, but stuff that melts basically and liquids that solidify. So, you cannot print in wood, although there are some materials that partially wood, but it's not possible yet. Unless we manage to develop wood that melts. Maybe not. Labor is expensive and by that I mean that education to educate people, how to design, create actually, like not like go on Thingiverse and just output my name in that phone case, but actually design something from scratch. So, we know that it takes a long time, especially if you don't know anything about 3D design and you have to learn from scratch to use Blender. Then that takes time and also to operate printers, you have to learn how to do that. So, it's not quite there yet. I think it comes back on and not like I'm using the last, okay, we're back. So, labor is expensive education, it's not for everyone, not everyone can learn how to design or to 3D print. It requires a lot of patience and a lot of time and iterations just to get something to be printed properly and you have to go through the whole process of because you won't know if it prints until you actually start printing and then you learn on your mistakes. So, this is the problem, yet the printers are not clever yet about that. So, we need to be clever. Let's go back. Yes, so, illegal implications, just that's basically means that what happens if you print a car and someone drives your treatment car and it crashes, who is responsible for that then? Is it him because he printed that car or you because you designed it this way or who is responsible for those things? So, that's not clear. Okay, we could shortly get to actual interesting stuff in Blender, but quickly I'll just mention. So, FDM printers are the most popular, we have Ultimaker, that's Dutch, super popular printer in Europe and that prints in plastic and different types of plastic, nylon and so on and different composites. But it extrudes on a platform, basically it's just the simplest one and that's what people have in homes. And SLA, so that's the first buttons and this one is actually not open source machine, same, this one isn't either, but I just showing them as an example. So, SLA uses liquid and UV laser or different light techniques to solidify the resin. So, you have very high resolutions with these ones, same with SLS and SLM printers, which use powder, verifying powder and lasers as well. So, basically the only resolution, the only constraints you have in resolution is the layer, I mean the size of the laser, which is like really tiny and the powder, which you use, the powder is very fine. So, they have very high resolutions and that will actually influence our design process because if you design for, depending on which printer to use the design for, you will have to keep in mind that certain things are possible to be done when you're printing on SLS machine, but you wouldn't be able to print this on a FDM machine because these parts are too thin. Maybe you would be able to print it, but it wouldn't be pretty and you wouldn't be able to finish it so well with very thin parts, not yet because the printers are not so precisely, it's basically on extruder thickness is not that thin, yes. Okay, so open source are the hard of tree printing. The first FDM printers that were developed were open source projects and very much people used Blender with that and a lot of software is open source and the whole hardware. So, the recent boom, like we hear all about those different printers coming out, they basically stands for MREPRA project. So, some of the open source three printers, the most popular ones are printer bots, it's the one I have, Ultimaker, LoseBotTas, they're very, there's a whole legion of them coming out and all the time is you can't keep up, okay? So, open source software is for 3D printing. So, this is the most popular trio. So, obviously Blender, everyone knows Blender, then you use Slicer and then Repetier Host. These ones work very, very well all together. It gives you a lot of, it gives you a lot of control over the process, this trio and it's very important that when you design, you actually know what slides you're going to use because some have different, they generate supports differently and it's important that you know. Okay, learning curve, like I said, it requires a lot of patience. This is only for the first three months, I will have my printer for the first three months and that's only a tiny bit. Lots of those prints are actually failed prints because I didn't design them properly or because I didn't fix the prints if when I downloaded them from Thingiverse. So, it's important to know when you're designing for 3D printing, when you use Blender or any other software, but we use Blender. When you design and prepare a 3D scan, so first of all, like I said, you need to know how, what kind of machine are you going to use and that not everything can be printed. So, in this scale, for example, so, okay, so after you design something in Blender, use Slicer to generate G-code, which is information for the actual machine, how to move the extruder around and what to extrude, when to extrude, when to slow down and so on. And Repetier is just used to initialize and as an interface between the user and the printer. Okay, we'll get shortly, we'll get into Blender design workflow tips. Okay, so, Manifold Watertight Mesh, no holes. That means Manifold Mesh is a mesh, I don't know if everyone knows, but I'll just show you quickly. So, if we have, where is it? Not on the internet? Nope. I'm not sure. Okay, I have some Blender files open. Okay, so I will just do, so this is the classic Suzanne model and this one is actually non-Manifold, I think. Yeah, this one is non-Manifold. So, you can use the shortcut Ctrl-Shield, I don't know, I need the third hand. Ctrl-Shift-Alt-M, which will select the non-Manifold edges. So, the model, perfectly, you want the model to be Manifold, as in it can hold water, it can be a solid, one solid piece, and I will show you in a second what's the difference. So, this is the non-Manifold, Suzanne, and if you wanted to 3D print it, probably with the printer, with the new slicers, it will slice perfectly fine, but we want to be professional, so we will try and avoid this kind of things. So, as you can see, it's a separate piece here, EI is a separate, whole separate piece, and you want it to be connected with the whole mesh, and you don't want any holes in the mesh like this, so because then the slicer might think that this is actually, you know, the object is going to be hollow inside, and you will get lots of support and really ugly things happening, and it doesn't have to be such a small hole, I mean, it's such a big hole, it can be a really tiny hole, you won't even notice, and sometimes, you know, the slicer can go crazy and just takes longer to slice as well, and you know, you're just gonna lose a lot of time, it's better to be safe than sorry and just make your mesh Manifold, so as you can see here, I've connected the edges, and this one will be much easier, much better to print, for our FDM printers even, as well as, let's say you want to send it off to ShapeWaste, I don't know if everyone is familiar with ShapeWaste, this one was printed through ShapeWaste, it's a service that you have those powder printers, SLM and SLS printers, which have a very high resolution, but also, if you have a non-Manifold mesh that might reject it, or it might take longer for them to fix it, and so on and so on, so you want your mesh to be beautiful, so you can post it everywhere and sell it, your designs, you know, share it with people, and they won't have any problems printing it, or it will be beautiful, okay. So let me just get back to the presentation, see what's next, okay, okay, so overhangs, so I will actually jump in back into the same file and explain a bit about overhangs, so if you want to have a really clean print, you would try to design something that doesn't have any overhangs, and I'll show you in a second, for example, in the case of Cezanne, it's really hard actually to get something with no overhangs, but here, for example, if this part was flat, overhangs means that the angle here would be bigger than, sorry, smaller than 45 degrees, so if we go actually, there's this really nice addon called Theriprint Toolbox, and you can check your file and see what's wrong with that file, so it has overhang faces, so yes, these ones here. You can still print it very easily, and your printer slicer will generate some support, but it's never pretty, I try to avoid support as much as I can, because you will lose awesome quality while printing with support, and also with as time and slicing time, and the one and so on. So this one you could actually just cut it here and just print in a separate part, but the best workflow is to just avoid too many overhangs. It's very hard with characters, your characters stand because there's no way you can print a human being with hands up without having overhangs, or here, here, everywhere, it's like, we have really bad anatomy, okay. Okay, so the scale for designing Blender is pretty obvious. One Blender unit is one millimeter in Repetia, so if you scale your model properly, you would get, so like one Blender unit would be exactly one millimeter. So with that Suzanne, it would be 13 centimeters, 30 and a half centimeters by 10 centimeters, by roughly eight centimeters big. And it's fine if you don't do it. I mean, you can always scale it in the actual Repetia itself, it will size fine, you know. But if you want to be precise, and if you want to share the file with someone else, it's best to stick to those guidelines because then they will never know what kind of size scale is it in, and if they want to print a case and it's in the wrong scale, it will be like trying, and they might get a wrong print, like it gets a bit nasty and wall thickness. So that's specifically important for printing, actually for all of the types of printers, depending of what kind of wall thickness are we talking about. But if we're talking about the FDM printers, for example, we would, well, there's no wall thickness here. If you look at Suzanne, it's just a huge part of the brain is gone. And this has no thickness at all. And actually I tried to slice it and it sliced well like this. And what Slicer did, he would actually be surprised, but I actually managed to slice it and it was clever enough to think, okay, this model is in hollow. So you can see it, not in every case, but you would rather be careful because it might just think that the whole, like I have a scan here, I was fixing over my face. Oh, not this way. So this is no thickness at all either. This is just a bunch of planes connected together. So if you want to make sure that it prints, you would probably orient it differently, print it with some support, add some thickness, but it's sliced. I mean, it's sliced. It added some thickness, not much, like, but it looks really crazy. I mean, it wouldn't print. I mean, it's sliced, but I don't think it would print because the model is so thin here. It's only literally one couple millimeters, one, two millimeters thick. So it wouldn't print very well. You would get some artifacts and it would require a lot of cleanup as well and post-processing. Just want to avoid that. So there are some design advices right there, wall thickness, and also for hollow models. I didn't actually mention it, but if you find Jonathan, he made a really nice tutorial about Jonathan Williamson about designing for shapeways. So for the powder printers, you would want a Suzanne. That's not a whole solid because that would cost you, hold on. I think actually, I'm not 100% sure, but shapeways charges you, I think per cubic centimeter of material used because they reuse the powder. So you would basically add some wall thickness to that using solidify modifier or similar to your object and just leave a hole so they can just get the powder out. Otherwise, you just pay for the whole thing, for the whole, it calculates as one solid object. So that's a good idea to keep in mind if you want to save some money. So like I mentioned, the models orientation before. So this is something important when you're printing on FDM printers, like in plastic, then you wouldn't orient your model like this because it wouldn't, or like the hand, you wouldn't print it like this because it would just get a lot of bad, you know, your overhangs and bunch of support. Just always oriented like this, for example, that the less overhangs you get, the better. But on the powder printers, it doesn't matter to be in any kind of orientation because it's still supported by the powder underneath it so you're okay with it. Okay, thickness, model orientation. Topology, I've had some problems while designing some models. I designed this 3D Hubs hard. Even though it's a very simple model with pretty clean topology, I had to add this ledge around this object, otherwise it wouldn't slice for some reason. So you have to be careful sometimes about how you design something if it doesn't slice, you have to have a look through your object and if it has a nice clean mesh and topology. And I wouldn't be too worried about and guns and quads. Usually we triangulate the mesh, but even when you export it, does it anyway to STL. But if you do it for someone else for our 3D printing, let's say for some website that hosts models, then you would always try to avoid end guns because you might get some crazy triangulation there and just desolate it to be totally different. You will not like it the end result, okay? So this one didn't slice, I had to fix it a bit. Even though it's such a simple model, okay? Let me get back to the present. So I've showed you the 3D print toolkit before. It's a very nice piece of addon, a very nice addon that you can use to actually show you what's wrong with your model. So I have some really bad model here with some end guns and some random stuff going on and a hole, so it's not manifold. And if you use a 3D print toolkit to see what's happening here, you will get some overhangs. Yeah, so it's non-manifold right here. You wanna close it. There are not flat faces, so that might not be very good if you give the model someone else, they use some funky slicer, you never use some proprietary stuff. Overhang faces, so, well, the bottom, you don't have to worry about it, it's on the platform anyway. But it's sliced, I mean, in slicer it's sliced, fine. So there wasn't any problem with that, even though it was so bad, the slicer was clever enough to actually slice it. So I would be careful though, still, because different slicers, different methods, especially if you do it for someone else. Or myself, I still keep my meshes really clean and I just try to avoid all the problems, just to be professional, you have to have good habits, after all, if you don't do something then, yeah, and you have to be sure that not only the mesh is manifold, but all the normals are facing the right direction. So in this case, you can see all the normals are facing outwards, as it's supposed to be, but also I added this disk inside to put the magnet in while it's printing, for example, in this case. And if the normals are facing the right direction, it won't slice properly. In this case, it's sliced and you would be able to put a magnet inside. I have some three printed here. So there are magnets inside these, actually, these inside the sprints. So, yeah, if you want to do something like this. Okay, 3D print toolkit. Yes, I insert the magnet while it's printing. So at certain layer, you have to watch the, and make sure in your design that the dimensions are right. For the, just you have to measure the magnets with and diameter. And well, well, I didn't stop it. I just put it in there while it's printing. So on a bigger object, especially like this, it's easy because it's so easier to get there while the extruder is on the other side. But with smaller magnets, when I was trying to do it, with like a very tiny disk, then you had to stop it and just move the extruder away because otherwise I would put my finger on the extruder was like 240 degrees. I don't really want to risk that. I get burned a couple of times. So it's very risky business now. Well, the nozzle I'm using is aluminum, I presume it didn't interfere. So, I mean, so the magnet didn't move. Although the screws in the cooler in my printer are metal and they attract, they actually attract the magnets. So I had to use a piece of blue tack on the magnet. Just to make sure, because otherwise it would wobble around while it was printing around it. It wasn't a problem though, it was just a precaution. It's, I mean, you have to know what kind of device you're using again because you might just jump out. And, no, okay. So according to apologizing, so it's another area that many people are especially lately interested in. When you scan someone, you would get a really, really, really dense mesh. So in this case, when I had this scanned, it's like 184,000 vertices. Well, you want to be below 500,000. But then again, if you can see, I mean, it's all orange. If you reduce the amount of vertices, so if you decimate the mesh, it will reduce the slicing times. And I always decimate the mesh no matter what, just to reduce the slicing times because I don't want to wait there for 20 minutes. And you won't see any difference anyway. I think I decimated like 80%, 70% of it and you still look the same. And you have to keep in mind that the printers don't have that great resolution, especially plastic, it will look completely fine afterwards anyway. Because when it prints, you just, you know, you're gonna get a bunch of that stuff. Okay, so dense mesh, longer slicing times. This one, this one I think, yeah, this one was sliced and this is actually a really dense mesh. So it took a couple minutes. I don't know, this is the decimated one. But if it wasn't decimated, it would take like three times longer than normally did. So this one I think it took like a couple minutes. And actually the repeater is really quick or I mean, slicer is really quick for me, not slicing. So if you use MakerBot or something like that, then or CURA, I don't know about CURA guys, but that might take longer or shorter. So it's just better to, you know, know that if you have a machine that has this kind of resolution, then it's no point in having such a dense mesh because it will just waste you time. And so another very important thing, so scans are non-manifold, so you get this, you know, this is like paper sheet basically, like it's all flat. There's no solid pieces here. You could like stick it to some generic model of a face, human face or something and just connect it somehow or reproduce that other scan. If you don't, if you have a parts of scan missing, especially if you scan a person, there is very often a hole at the top of their head or something and you have to fix that, close that gap. Otherwise you will have a non-manifold mesh again and might have some weird stuff happening with that while slicing, okay. So retopologize, decimate remesh is very useful doing that remesh modifier and decimate modifier. Okay, and I think I had, so how much time do I have left because I think I'm almost, I don't know, I think I have some stuff, but okay. So I'll just add some more things. So for example, when you design a case, this is actually oriented, so Z up, but if you design for someone, if you design especially for thingiverse or something like shapeways, they use a more common way of Y up. And if you upload your STL, that's just exported from Blender, it will be rotated around the X axis, it won't be pacing the user, so it doesn't present very well. They can still rotate it, I think in the software you can rotate it or when you upload it to some of the websites, it's better to just rotate your object around 90 degrees around the X axis, so you get it facing like this in the front view. All right, in the other way around. You have to, it's a hit and miss with those services. But another thing, while you design, let's say for example, phone cases or objects like this, you always want to print it like this, design it so it's printed flat, the flattest surface touching the ground, but you have to make sure there are some, oh, there is a hole you would need to use some support, so that also might be a problem when you, if you want to print it on home printer, there are some very thin places here, thin, very thin wall walls and the thickness of that will actually, I don't think it would print on a FDM printer very well. You only can go as far as twice the width of your nozzle, in most cases about 0.8 millimeter, this thickness here, if it's any thinner than that, sometimes it slides so much that I might just ignore it because there's nothing there or it's just too thin and it will be one line, but you are stretching basically the printer's capabilities in this case, you go very thin, you won't get the same resolution will look ugly in many, many cases and with many different materials, it's just, I'll probably invert it, make it actually solid here with just those cutouts and that would be prettier in such a case. And I saw some people printing the cases like this, so not actually not laying down horizontally on the bed, just vertically weird because it can really easily unstick from the printing bed, from the heated bed, but I've seen some really like some very well printed cases like that oriented like this on the printer and that depends on what kind of design you have again. Depends where you need the most of the resolution to be. In the Z-axis you get the most, most of the resolution, so like this, you can get 0.1, but most of the printers you go 0.1 SFDM printers, 0.1 millimeter that is, it's very, very, very, very fine. Okay, so if I go to screen, yeah, but if you don't have a printer, there are many people, Netherlands is number one, I think one of the number one places for 3D printing and wherever you go, any bigger city, you're going to have some hacker space, Fabla around, where are people that have a 3D printer and 3D hubs, they have a very, very big community of 3D printer owners, so you can always find some really cool people around you and you can always have your designs tested first on the actual 3D printer and many people would just do it for pennies for a couple cents, always meet some nice people on those meetups. Okay, so thank you very much. Are there any questions? If yes, would you have the working microphone? I don't know if I missed anything, maybe I missed something. Hello, in the 3D printing toolbox, you have on the end panel, a mesh analysis button, on the end panel, the, yeah. Oh, on the end panel. There you have mesh analysis normally. Do I have to go to edit mode? Yeah. Yeah. Where is the mesh now? Fill down, yeah. Yeah, yeah, yeah. And then you can have colorized. Yeah, so it gives you the angle. Yeah, where you have the problem, so it's easier to fix. That's if you are actually editing the mesh, you would use that. And as soon as you start editing, you will see the color fade to the, yeah. That's really cool if you want to start modeling and see overhangs there. I've seen it, I've seen it being used, but actually myself, I always, I already see the overhangs everywhere in my life, so. There's no support here, I'm really worried about this. How are you going to post-process the models afterwards, so do you have a specific sanding or? So post-process when it's after it's printed? Yeah, after it's printed, like sometimes if the Z resolution isn't high enough, you get like this little stairs. Yes, yes. So that depends on the material you use with the FDM with plastic. If, let's say, if you print in ABS, I think this is ABS here. So this is, you print at a higher temperature. But this, you can actually, they look the same. I mean, I don't even know what I'm showing you. You cannot tell apart the reeds so easily unless you burn it in smells. You can, basically you can, I wouldn't try it at home, it's really risky with this kind of material. You would give it a bath of hot alcohol like a vapor. Acetone or something like that. Yeah, acetone vapor. But acetone is toxic so you do it outdoors in a covered environment and it's flammable so it can explode. You can also, well, you can always sand it. You can always sand it. Yes, can I, I didn't hear your question. I've done a number of tests with it because I was curious because you read about it and you see it on the internet. I've read a lot about it as well. I mean, I'm still alive and the house did not get on fire. No, no, no, you have to be really careful. If it's a very well ventilated place and you're not a smoker, then, and if you don't like to stick your head smoking a cigarette into the actual box with the acetone vapor and oxygen then I think you'll be fine. But I still don't breathe that. I mean, there's, I've heard like stories it can burn, explode. Same, don't do it in your room because it's not very ventilated. You have lots of electronics around. You might just spark and you're gone. Sorry. This is strong, yeah. And for PLA you can use like acrylic primer. It's like great paint. And you put it on and then sand it off so you don't lose any detail. So yeah, I would outcoat it. It's like the typical stuff you would do with all the materials too. So you get really less detail. There is also, there's a different kind of alcohol I've heard they use for polishing PLA but the name was really long, some chemical name and it's not very popular and it was quite, I think, quite toxic, more toxic than acetone. Also you can always sand it, like you said, paint it with something, take sand it, you can, temperature, you can, if you burn it with a small torch, depending on the plastics on PLA is not all the same. You have different additives to different PLAs and sometimes they will change color now, sometimes they will just get shiny. I've burned some PLA and it had a nice finish before so you can do that. There's some many things you can try. Excuse me, you've talked about FDM but what are the relative resolutions that the three technologies will give me? Relatively to the SLM printers? FDM gave you, I think it was 0.1mm in the Z axis. You can go lower, I mean you can go lower, I've heard of 0.05 and 3, it goes below that. With FDM? With FDM, there are, there were some printers but I don't think, I haven't seen many people printing at less than 0.1 or like 0.05. If you print at 0.1, I think this one was printed 0.15 or oh, yeah something like that. It took like 5 hours, 4 hours. If you go at 0.05, so that's like less than 1.10 of a, half of a 1.10 of a millimeter. So you increase the printing time twice and it prints for 8 hours and it's just not really, you don't want to wait for that. You can't see the difference between those resolutions than in the Z axis because between the small, you know, I mean you just simply cannot see that difference in resolution. You will still see the layers but... What about the other technologies? Much finer. So the SLM printers are kind of in the middle ground. You have, you use a resin and again you cure it with a laser or light UV light. I think most of them use it. And their resolutions are much, much lower. So you can see like very small print parts like tiny figures with hands and everything. 25 millimeter figures is exactly what I'm thinking of. What is it? The gesture you just made with your hands suggests you're thinking about what I call a 25 millimeter figure which are the ones used for tabletop wargaming. That's what I'm after. Yes. Although they use a clear resin so most of the time you get like a choice of couple colors and it's always pretty, like they're clear. I would rather use something like, like on an SLM or SLA printer and then you can print in very fine resolutions as well. You can do those small figures. You get them. The best resolution you get is with SLA and SLM, SLS printers. But they're really expensive. I think the biggest advantage. That's with, with, yes, yes, yes, yes. Like I said, so it doesn't matter how you re-enter model depending on what printer you print for. For example, in this case you can orient it in any way and on SLS and SLM printers in powder it won't matter because there's powder underneath it. So you don't need to care about overhangs and you don't need to care as much about the wall thickness and other things. Yeah, it's stronger as well. The plastic is pretty strong. Yes? I'll repeat the question. Don't worry. So yes, you have to be careful with PLA. Yes, yes, yes, yes. I would, I would suggest to store it in container. They can, in vacuum container perfectly when there's no oxygen. But stuff like dust and humidity in the air can damage it. Yeah, true. You can, I haven't tried that. But if you print with support, you have to be careful because you might damage the model. So it depends how you design it, especially every small parts. But understand, understand the real point. I've heard stories that it just, it loses its quality over time. Myself with the PLA I've used, it's been sitting in my room for a year, some of the spools I have, and they are still fine printing very well. But I tend to put them in plastic bags, and so there is, they don't absorb any more humidity than they already absorbed now. So you can, that's very, yeah, you have to know the material using, but we are getting very technical now, and most of the people won't really care about that. But if you have a lot of material, and that's a lot of money, then you have to be careful. Yes, I think there's a question, do you have a question? Oh, first, here, yes? One question. Are the objects printed with PLA or ABS foot safe? For example, a print database... Well, foot, PLA itself is cornstarch derived. So cornstarch is, well, corn, you know, it's foot safe itself, but there are additives to those plastics always. Coloring agents and other additives to make them stronger and not as brittle. And that's the stuff you have to worry about. They usually tell you, oh, the material is, there are no known toxins, but we wouldn't advise it to use with foot safe. I think there are some specific different plastics. For example, ABS doesn't interact as well. So ABS, some of the ABS ones might be foot safe. And ColourFab, the Dutch company, has some new filament that's foot safe-ish, I think. But I don't know, I wouldn't try. Even if it's foot safe, you still might get some lead from your extruder, from your printer in there. So, yeah, it's another thing you didn't consider, yeah. But generally, I mean, I've had beer from this one, and I'm still alive, so, twice. So it may be the heat index to the... Well, it probably kills them all. It's at 200 degrees, so. But, no, there's this plastic that, you know, like our friend there said, you know, the plastic that absorbs lots of water, and we have so many crevices here, and small spaces that, you know, there are lots of, probably, plenty of bacteria in there that you cannot see. And you cannot just wash it very well, so that's another thing I would be concerned about, you know. Not very good for, maybe for prototyping, but I would eventually bring in ceramics or something, you know, there are some different printers. Okay, in shapeways, I think they bring in ceramics. Yeah, shapeways can print in ceramics, or you can post-process some models yourself and make them smooth and paint them with some foot safe paint or something, if there's something like that existing. Okay, thank you. Yes, you have a question? I was wondering if you had any experience printing molds or printing negatives in them. No, but I know you can do it in wax. I haven't actually, well, not for, depends what kind of molds. Not for if you want to, what do you want to mold? What kind of, do you want to mold? We'll start with something easy, like latex or rubber. I don't think that, like, what depends of material would you use, but if it has a lower melting temperature than PLA, much lower, then it should be fine in, you know, plastic, with plastic molds. I use PLA to print molds for soaps, so you use, like, you can just put that in there and the plastic won't melt or won't even change the hardness and the soap, you put that in the fridge, then it solidifies, you have soap with your own design on it, something like that. But so, yes, it depends what you want to mold, really. And I've heard that, you know, first you print, yeah, the molds in one thing, then you make a wax, you know, cast, and then you go around. That's how they do in shapeways, I think. The metal printing is actually casting from wax. Making that wax. Yes. Yes, Matthew. Just to answer your question, the jewelry people, they use it a lot, because they truly print in either, they cast latex molds, if they just want to make, after, they use the mold for wax, and then they can have castable resin that you can cook, and then they put it in a gypsum, a pot, I don't know how you call it. Exactly, gypsum. Because as far as I know, the SLS printers, they don't print metal, they have some composites. It's like a powder, so you have a powdered metal with some agent that, you know, binding agent, and then you use a laser on it and kind of binds it. And if you polish it, it might look like metal, but it's not quite metal. So if you want to cast like jewelry, or you want to have a solid golden statue, then you'd have to make a mold for that first, print a mold, and then... Like wax. There are some waxes, printable waxes, that work well, but for FDM, when you burn it, a PLA, you can burn it in the oven, but there are some residues, so you lose some resolution, because you never manage to burn it completely. You have to burn it, then you have to with hair in it, but there are still some dirt. This is a rudder printer, so you can print directly into that. There are rudder printers, you can print to the print rudder, and you can also, for example, through the print sound, and sound velocity measures are there. Good point. You have so many printers coming out that I can't keep up. People are printing chocolate and... Sugar. Sugar, chocolate, yeah. I've seen a lot of weird stuff. You're printing dough, making cookies, and then you just put it in the oven, re-print a cookie. Livers, that was a re-printed liver. Burger for $400,000. If you want. What about colored 3D printing with desktop printers? When will it be possible? I've heard some developments, but there are still not options that we have, that is what's being developed. I've saw people that actually use three different colors or four different colors, but I don't know how well did it work out. It mixes a sample of different colors, depending on what color you want, so it would print you a full color figure, for example. But there are some... Mostly it is... The nicer ones I saw, the SLM ones, they would paint the powder itself first, and actually, you know, sinter it or melt it. But these printers are very, very expensive, because there are patents on them. But as the patents are expiring now, I've heard even of one SLM machine, SLM machine being developed, that might in a couple years bring us very, very high-end printers like this, powder printers, and very possibly full-color printers to prices of a couple thousand pounds, dollar, euros, that it would be viable then, but not yet. Right now, it's in tens of thousands, if not more, euros, these machines. And it does be all because of the patents. There's no competition, so they just price it very highly. And also, you have a laser that can kill you. You need a laser physicist to develop a printer like that now. Otherwise, you know, it's very dangerous. Any other questions? Great. You say one blender unit is one millimeter in a program you're using. Okay, so that might depend on the software you're using, but for example, one blender unit equals to one millimeter if I export an STL without scaling it in STL. You know we have this dialogue when you export to STL, whether it wants you to scale it and if you don't, you just leave them the value at one then it will be one millimeter in repetiae and as far as you remember in shapers as well it would be one blender into one. I was just curious because in theory we've got units in blender. I know and it's weird because one blender unit should be one meter. Yeah, but one millimeter in blender units would be one millimeter in STL, but it's not. No, it's not. I mean that's the first thing I found out I was really surprised and really really worried, like why isn't it this way? So you just keep using blender units and then? I use one unit as a one millimeter now. I don't even switch to centimeters anymore in them sink. Yeah, I don't change that to metric because if you change to metric you could do that. You could do that. You correct it. Yes, but it's not logical. So you see that this is a very big phone case. If you printed that you could put a phone case on your house No no more questions. Okay. Thank you very much. If you have any more questions my website is not working at the moment because my other domain it was pointing at is expired, but if you have any questions I'll be around for like three next three days still. So always ask me anything. Thank you. Thank you.