 Fuse is blown, first thing we did before we touched any wiring, so we checked to make sure where our short was. We found it on. So guys, heading to a call right now. They have no cooling in the kitchen area. They said the stat is blank, so I'm going to assume that the breaker is either tripped or the low voltage has got an issue. Let's go see if we've got a compressor shorted out or if we've got a thermostat bad or what we've got going on. So we got some there, got a little some there, a little bit some there. So we got the juice coming in and a whole lot going on, so some basic simple troubles you've been here for the new guys. Alright, so we have a blown fuse, so we've got to find out what's going on. If you look at it, it's got a really nice blow part mark in the middle there. That means dead short, not overamped. So we've got to find out which one's shorted here. So the first thing I'll do a lot of times, I'll go ahead and kill my main power. Just start checking resistance to ground. So we're going to go to ground and R, which we got 49 ohms to Y1. We've got 3.2, Y2 nothing, this is a single stage unit, W1, we've got 202, and then G, nothing common, it should be 0.02. So since Y is there, we can go ahead and yank the backside off, isolating it from it, see if we still have it, we do not have it. So by doing that, we've just eliminated the thermostat. Didn't need to do a bunch of fancy stuff, we just eliminated the most likely thing. Now that 50 ohms there between common and R, that could be a winding or something like that. That's not like a dead short. I am more concerned with the one here that went pretty much straight to ground. So if we look at what we're going on here, it may come over here straight to the contactor, but if you know anything about these units, they've got an economizer, and the economizer gets the Y signal first. And more times than not, it usually gets jacked up, which this one here has been disconnected. So that gets rid of that. Looks like we've came up with some sort of free stat to do different things with, hard to say. So because of the way this thing's ran in between here, sometimes you'll see shorts above in here where it passes through. So since we know it's not linking through a economizer control, we can yank the wire off of the contactor, recheck it again, and go straight to there into here. Look at that. We have nothing connection-wise. Connect this back here. Of course, now we're getting two 12-ohms. That's weird. Let's go back up here to Y1, connect it together. Now we have 12-ohms. That's very odd. We had that contactor does not shove in very, very great does it. It's a little pitted. Okay. Well, we're going to get us a jumper with a fuse on it. I have one of those ones that have the little light that glows. It's got a PTC, positive temperature coefficient, basically gets hot and opens the circuit. Do not 100% love that thing because I have watched the amp meter on it, and it does not disconnect as quick as what a fuse will, or not a fuse, but a breaker. And you can actually blow some stuff up with it. So I do not 100% recommend the short finder. The new short finder does not use a PTC. You can look up their patent and see exactly how they build it. You can buy the parts for less than $3. They sell it for like $30, $40, but you're better off with a 3-amp breaker. We've got two different ones here. I've got the little popper, which you can get these in 3 and 5-amp. Got the little prongs that fit right in there. I've got a 3-amp, which is out of a Linux furnace. Either one's convenient for giggles, since I've never even used it. It's been sitting in the truck forever. Go ahead and hook this one up, since it fits right in the prongs nice and pretty. Reset it, see what happens. Kicks on immediately. There she goes, great. Let's go ahead and check our amp draw here. OK, we're pulling 0.7, 0.9, 0.8 amps. OK, so when I opened up that cover, I wonder if something wiggled. Put that on max for giggles. Help it figure something may have shorted into it. So start tracking for rub-throughs here somewhere. I pulled that off, you never know. Like I said, this thing here goes up, over, and through this side over here. So it comes through. A lot of times you'll have some wiggling, where it'll eat into the edge of the blower here. Got some wires there that look like they were starting to potentially rub. Got all kinds of nice, sharp edges here for it to rub into, which right there's a real good place for it to do it. That looks like that's starting to rub into it. Yeah, and then they continue on over to there, and it can rub in over there. OK, so they've got a free stat already wired in here that's breaking the Y. As it comes from the thermostat, they've got it stuck in the coil there. They've got it shutting off at like, I don't know, what is it there? 30 degrees, 31. Coming back on at 60, this is a stat where you can sit there and split the difference of what you're on and off is, which is kind of cool. So they got that there. The rest of this stuff from the economizer here has already been disconnected. This stuff is just loose wires that are going to lead this lead you wherever. So that's all. This thing is never going to get re-hooked. I know this place, so they're pretty much due for a new system. So they're just keeping us along on the shoestring budget right now, just keeping it cheap. So if you come over here and look at the schematic though, the blue wire off of Y comes down over to the economizer. This is the economizer plug, comes out of blue, comes over on gray. Gray comes back and goes to your high pressure, freeze protection stat, low pressure, and back to your contactor. There's your other side. Well, the freeze protection stat was already kind of half mangoid and stuff, so went ahead and yanked it out. So we got rid. We got rid of all this extra wiring that's going over there. So here's the gray wire coming back. Here's the blue wire going over. So we're just going to undo the blue wire. We're going to hook the high pressure and low pressure switch in the circuit, just like you would expect, and then we're going to loop it up to our contactor. Basically, we're getting rid of all this extra wiring there. So since we can't find the short right at this given moment, but like I said, if you look at some of these wires where this stuff has been rubbing and we're going to tape up some of it. It doesn't look like it broke through, and it might have. You can see a couple of spots there where it looks like it probably possibly ate into it. There's one on the high voltage is starting to, so we're going to go ahead and tape all that up. None of it is like busted wide open or I'd be chopping it out, but you can see how this could happen with the way this thing is designed. It's not a real wonderful design. It's been like this for years and years and years and years. So and then as you come over through here, you'll see that wiring comes through this mess here. They got a flat edge on it where it's rolled over, but like I said, we're getting rid of that out of the circuit and removing that. Now you still got R that's going over there, but R is not where our short was. So if we wanted to unhook the economizer's R terminal, which would power the economizer control, you could come down to here and look at that, which here's red. Red comes up and connects to the connection board. So if you wanted to, you could unhook R, red from R there, just eliminating the possibility of another future short. But like I said, this thing's a 06, now it's a 07. So 18, 1920, this thing's 13 years old already. Surprisingly the heat exchanger looks like it's still okay. I have to double check it yet. I'm probably going to go ahead and change this contactor. It's the original one. It's a little sticky and there's always a possibility we could have a coil that's getting a short in it too. So and we'll leave these wires here. So if someone actually wanted to re-hook it, they can, but we're just going to get rid of the obvious garbage that we don't need. That's just potentially going to cause us some problems. So here's our red wire coming and you got to remember power for this. A lot of times we'll sit there and loopy-doop over back and blah, blah, blah. You can see where red feet and the economizers here, they've taken the G terminal and connected it right to it. Because a lot of times you can't count on to leave the fan on. In a lot of instances, you've got to bring in makeup air into the building. So that's a lot of times the reason why people do that. And this was all wire tied and hog tied, whatever you want to call it all together, into a big mess. So we're going to go ahead and clean that up. OK, one head and got a new crimp on there for this one. That one's coming from the low and high pressure switch. Also, this factory crimp deal they got going on here. You've got little spots where that could possibly hit something. So we're going to go ahead and run some tape around that also. A lot of times when you aren't finding the dead short now, when it was there earlier, if you wiggle the wires around enough, you might eventually find it. With this here, you've got to watch the bundle. A lot of times down here, these wires will rub into the refrigerator lines and create a short down there. So we're going to create us another little bundle, but we're going to keep them separate from the high voltage, which is usually a good idea. That way, if they short, they'll short into high voltage, taking out everything in the loop. When we tape this together, that's going to isolate the factory's little plastic insulator there that very easily could get into a metal grounding and potentially cause a short. A lot of this stuff, as you continue on through the years, you're going to start seeing it more often, and you're going to know to look for it. So when you're doing your start-ups, you're going to notice wires that are loose because they're going to vibrate into stuff. You're going to notice a lot of different things. Here's that blue and that gray. We can go ahead and just loop them back together. That way, nobody thinks they're just kind of laying their all by themselves unhooked. So we'll just place those back in there. That way, they're out of the way. The high voltage stuff, I'm going to check that over. Power is off. Make sure your power is off. I want to look at the high voltage wires when they're coming through here. Make sure there's no shorts and noes. That could be the next problem you get. I just really don't like that. Usually that's ran all the way to the contactor. This kind of leaving it dangle out here could eventually vibrate into the cover. Now, far as which one's power for the unit, we can kind of cheat here a little bit and hook that one. We're trying to figure out which one's which. Generic way we can do that. Not so generic. Nothing. Something. So that's your R coming in from your transformer. We can clean this up now. Don't need this big, godly looking freaking thing on there no more. Now we can take that big jumper out. Normal terminals here. One less thing through to roll into it and short it. There's that red going to the economizer. Red tape it off that way. Somebody doesn't think it fell off and re-hook it. Like I said, we're just eliminating things that aren't being used. So look at everything. Play Mr. Detective. Like I said, Inspector Gadget. That's what we're going to be. The Inspector Gadget here. So we're going to change this contactor real quick. And there's that. So we've got that in place, got it dated. This has got a bug shield on it, which is nice. Got it anchored in there real well. Here's what the other ones look like. You can see we've got some burning and pitting going on. It's not wretched, but it definitely ain't great. So they ain't out nothing for changing it now. And then if we can find a date on this thing, let's see if it truly is. Oh, six. Yeah, so that's the original contactor. This is three phase, which they wire one leg hot. So we've got that there. We've gotten rid of the other garbage. Now, like I said, recap. Originally fuses blown. First thing we did before we touched any wiring is we checked to make sure where our short was. We found it on the Y. We unhooked Y from this side here. Didn't have anything on the thermostat side. Now it's not saying there ain't something in the thermostat, but we first tracked it down to the inside of the unit because this was the side here. Then we came over to these areas over here and searched all that. We got to finish taping up some of those wires. But for right now, the unit does kick on and run. We'll go ahead, finish taping that up and then we're gonna let it run for a little while and then kind of go from there. Now we're being a little courteous here. We unhooked blue, gray, red from economizer at stat block. Somebody was nice enough to tell me that they wired a free stat between R, breaking it there, so we're good there. We've got our wires taped up. I went ahead and kept them underneath here between the blower and the insulation. I was gonna put it back out here in front where it normally is at, but you've got that sharp edge corner. Well, it ain't sharp, but you've got a edge corner there that it's been rubbing into in the past. And then same thing here, it's tucked it over. We got everything pretty well tucked in there. Went ahead and added an extra layer of protection in there. We double checked our wires here, made sure there's nothing on any of these bend spots and anything was shortened in here. All of this here looked pretty good. So look how that there is kind of sharp edge where something could rubbed into it, which for the most part, most of that should all be dead now, but we double checked it just in case. Belts, filters, all that's maintained by their maintenance guy. So Belts looking like it's getting a little war. He's running a little tight too. We've got it back together. Basically, we're letting it run for a while to make sure it isn't gonna trip out, cleaning up our mess, getting everything picked up. Don't leave all this garbage laying around. Got wires, things like that. Coil, looks like it's been through a hail storm coming back. We're pumping out some massive heat. So we'll get all this garbage picked up and get it off the roof. Okay, it's been running for about 15 minutes, no problems. So we're gonna go ahead and get another three amp fuse in there, pull that out, make sure everything's tight on that too. Thought a little bit loose, that ain't too bad. Everything looks pretty good on it otherwise. So we're gonna go ahead and notate what we did. For the most part, it just comes down to most likely the wires were what was our issue. Potentially contact or it needed change no matter what anyhow. So we went ahead and got that. Never know, it could be one of those windings that I've had that before, it'll play games with ya. You figure that thing's been running as long as this unit. Constantly hot and everything else, dirt. All this dirt gets in there, it's like sandpaper. All it takes is one little nick in the varnish. The next thing you know, you've got a short. We're gonna go ahead and try this first and then kinda go from there before we spend a bunch of time going through our thermostat wires and stuff like that. Because like I said, we narrowed it down in between here by isolating it. So if you guys liked the video, please like, share and subscribe and we will catch you guys on the next one.