 Okay, so what we're gonna do on this call, surface calls, I'm not going to really edit much out of it. You're gonna hear me thinking out loud why and what I'm doing and how I'm coming about to what I, the conclusion that I come about to. This video is brought to you in part by TrueTech Tools, quality tools, essential support. What's going on guys? So today we're working on a job trailer here and they have no heat. This is gonna be something probably pretty simple but figure it might as well do some basic electrical troubleshooting here because this is an electric package unit. What we have here is just a barred unit through the wall mount. Let's go up there and take a look and see what we got going on. The thermostat did not bring the fan on immediately. So I went ahead and told the fan to run continuously. Yeah, right there's your electric strips I think because the blowers are running. I did check voltage. We do have 240 volts to it. Let's go ahead and check and see if we're getting our signal back here to the W. You've got W2 and one hooked together there. So let's go ahead and put our volts. That contactor right there, likely is the electric strips. They probably don't even have a sequencer but it's partially burnt and it looks great. Yeah, I don't have 24 volts on that. This is your fan one I believe, fan relay. Got 23 on that. And it is closed, made sure I crossed it. Power coming in, some light gauge looking wire. Here's our power wires coming in. So we got 248 volts there. We've got 248 there. That feeds power to the red ones that come down to a little harness so that it can burn off. And this other horn swoggling garbage goes down here to this, which all that's pretty rough shape too. It's coming down here to common, I think it's a C, yep. So there's common. Let's go to Y, nothing. Bring that down here so you can see too what's going on. Coming to R, we got 27.5 coming down to W. Whoa, how in the world do we have 124 volts between that thermostat and that? Let's go to ground. Holy macaroni's. We have 120 some volts on that W terminal. I am afraid you're gonna get zapped. Like we're gonna literally go from metal. Let's go to the metal here, the screw to that. We have 124 volts AC. That could hurt, that could hurt just a little bit. I am not sure why that happened, but I would say we need to turn off the breaker. See if it's dead. And find out what and the world is going on here. I would speculate that we have a low voltage wire that got tied on with a, yeah, I think I can almost already see it. Yep, let's go up here to this top. Notice this big heavy gauge wire that's on the low voltage terminal there. I would say somebody didn't know what they were doing and they wired that up like that. That's just a guess. Now there's your electric strips. Looking up here, you've got two electric strips. So you're gonna have about 22 amps area, a piece. There's 44, you got a limit switch there. So you've got two blacks coming in on one side of the wiring and two reds going on the other. Those come down to here. And I would not doubt that, you know, Jim Bob Jr. there said, boss, I can do that and just give me a shot at it. I can get it. Trust us me. So here's your black, both black leads coming down to one side of the breaker and the reds are going up here and they're breaking both legs a piece. So each leg of that contactor's getting 20 amps. That's why they're doing it. The two reds are going on up. Now, what is this blue wire going to? That blue wire actually goes up there to the limit switch. Okay, so they are shutting the limit. The limit switch gonna shut down the contacts. Let's go ahead and check our resistance on our switches and on our elements. They should have somewhere around maybe 14 ohms, 10 ohms, something like that. One leg's broke, so we're fairly isolated. Let's go up here and go leg to leg. This is just elements, 12, 11.5, 11.2, whatever. Coming over to this other 12 ohms, something like that. Now let's go ahead and check it on the other side of the limit switch, a thermal limit. Now it's okay too. Okay, so maybe the limit switch did its job. Sometimes you can't always get good like see here's the painted surface. But if you itch into it, it will. So it's the same thing with these crappy terminals. Let's check the both sides of that limit. That one's closed too. Okay, so everything in the electrical section works. Let's come on down here to this hodgepodge any. Like I said, this contactor, we're gonna put a new one of those in there because this thing is just not looking good. Not looking good at all. No electric sequence or nothing like that. That's probably what this here was. So there's no way for this to delay the fan off. No way whatsoever. Not a good idea. So that's definitely an issue. Now we still need to find out why we have 120 volts on this low voltage terminal here. That's kind of problematic. Something is not doing so well. And you can see these right here, these red wires here, they are burnt. They are burnt pretty good. See that? I mean, that's got heat on it. So let's follow them down. I about bet you. So one of them comes down to this plug. The other one is black. Comes down to this plug too. Comes out of that plug and comes down to here. And one of the red ones goes to this relay here, which is on the normally closed. There is probably the fan terminal here, I bet you. And the other leg of fan is going over to one of the terminal strips coming out after the breaker. Probably cannot read this schematic. It's why I'm not spending a lot of time looking at it. Yeah, this will probably break as soon as I try to unfold it. So there's that limit switch. There's your resettables, thermal fuse, heat contactor coming down to that plug. After the plug, they don't show it in this thing here. So you're pretty much going to need to probably follow the wires and see where things are going. The problem you're gonna have with the way they've got it, even if we make this contactor pull in, there's no delay on that fan. That fan's not gonna run after the strip shut off. I mean, it's gonna be instantaneous dink and drop and drop right out. All right, so we've got very little of anything here for room. The W, which is brown, brown comes up off the back and looks like it goes into that wiring harness right there. It does not appear that there's an actual plug on that on the other side. Okay, well, that one brown does not go anywhere. That's fine because it's just a dummy terminal because they jumped these together. That blue wire comes in and then connects to, ooh, look at that, look at that. There's a wire there that fell off. See, I love digging. So when you dig, things come apart. That goes to that contactor there. So that is this terminal going to that terminal there on the contactor that went originally here, down to there. So now we're pretty much gonna have to chop that brown wire out. I'm pretty sure that's where it went. If not, it could have been the black wire there, which the black wire is probably on the same terminal. Yep, nothing, no, Scrumatic. That's most like your compressor contactor and this is your fan relay. So that one comes off power, so it's your power going out. This is normally closed, which is why in the world would you have ever put, that's where where problems lie. So these are going to high voltage. When this thing shut off, it backfed high voltage to this relay on up. What was you thinking? Why do we need two of the same wires going to the same area? Yeah, look at that red one there. It's kind of eight up too. I don't like that. I think we need to get rid of it. There's really no sense of having it there. It's just problems. Literally goes straight from there to this contactor. I bet that was supposed to go down here to this. The orange comes down, the backside is G. So yeah, that should have went there to turn on that relay. This here's a black, which goes down here to one leg of the 24 volt side. So that's common. So G goes to that. W, they did not have anything for W to make the fan run. So that's not going to work. What you could do, you can make G tied on with W and that would work. Then you got to worry about possibly when the air conditioner runs backfeeding through that and causing the heater strips to run at the same time. So that's not really a good idea either. So our big issue right here is that that red wire should not have been tied onto that at all. This blue, which looks like the blue comes down to W1. Yep, so that just loops through there and goes up to that blue up there on the top piece. So we're going to go ahead and chop that out of there. I think we'll use some yellow butt connectors for some of it, like maybe two of them. And I like the blues for the rest because that's good up to 14 gauge. So we get that. Then we're going to need some spade terminals here to correct some of the ones that are broke. Okay, so what we're going to do on this call, surface calls, I'm not going to really edit much out of it. You're going to hear me thinking out loud why and what I'm doing and how I'm coming about to what I, the conclusion that I come about to. So there's that blue. There's this blue. They come together. So let's go ahead and strip it. Okay. Yeah, that blue would be plenty for that, but I don't think insulation, it might. Yeah, it does. Look at that. Does actually match up to it. Good deal. Okay, and then I usually come in here and I match up my pliers so I know I'm right the very edge of it. There we go. And you should not be able to pull that apart within reason. So this is that black wire coming off of that contactor. Like I said, those things are burnt a little bit. I mean, we can replace them here in a second. Here's that red coming down to the other red, which somebody jumped that into that piece there and it don't belong here at all. Here's black and brown. Nothing's on the other side. So I don't think they even need to go to anything. So we may just unplug those from the harness. So we'll just toss that down there. Find out where that brown goes. The brown goes down here to W2. They're jumped, so there's no sense of having it on there. So we get rid of that. And then that black one that comes down here to common. That's all that is. It's just a common wire. So no real need for that either. Maybe, well, we'll jump off of something else if we do need it. Okay, let's chop that one. We'll keep the wire just in case we need it for something else. So we've got that terminal back off of there. So now we should be good with the blue coming up. Should go to the electric strips and make them run. Now we just need to figure out how we're gonna make that fan run. Now that thermostat, which is probably damaged now and we'll probably be putting a new thermostat on it. We can hit a regular thermostat and tell it that's electric strip to where the thermostat poles sends power to the fan relay. It makes it run when it's called for heat. And most likely that's what we're gonna need to do because it's just a junk thermostat in there anyway on a snap disk. So a digital will be just fine. Okay, we've got us a 24 volt coil contactor here. It's two pole because we need to keep each leg individual there. I mean, theoretically you don't, but we're going to. Gonna keep it pretty much right in line. That main breaker there is off, which we're live here. If you're doing it, I would recommend most likely killing it at the box. That way you don't accidentally drop something into it like that right there. Looks like it'd be bad. We'll go ahead and leave this quiet right here because I've had some people say they don't like the music. I like the music. You got close captioning, even for my hillbilly talk, you can usually understand, it figures out what I'm saying even. Get that new one in there. We may end up going and picking up a sequencer or something for the fan. I don't know what else stood. Oops, there goes a screw. Yeah, it's really lovely. No matter how you do it, it wants to fall right back at it. Yeah, both of those are on the same turn. It don't matter which one's which. You're just a split and you can see how bad that looks right there. Yeah, it's pretty bad. And I wouldn't doubt the coil's probably burn anyway, but we're getting rid of it. Pretty simple circuit here. It's just literally low voltage circuit. But there's always something for everybody here. Where's that other one at? So that's the power wire. Now you got a ground or common coming from the other. So I don't know where I put that at. Did I unhook that? We can take that down here. That's what we're gonna do. We're just gonna run a... That's not bad looking. Not horrible looking anyhow. There we go. Maybe that's what I did. I actually may have unhooked it. So we'll bring that down here to this and share it with that. And that'll give us the other side of our common that we need. This is back when things were all done individually and not all integrated. It required you to think a little bit more. Yeah, let's run that back underneath here so it's not dangling out in the front as much. Less likely to get caught into things. There we go. It's not like in the breaker and all that. There we go. See it? Ground, boom, boom, common, ground, whatever. That highfalutin, nice, fancy thermostat here. Okay, so we're turning the fan off. Let's look at this heat anticipator. I bet it's burned out. I mean, you got high voltage on one of the W terminals. I can about guarantee you smoked this puppy. For Shadizzles, let's go ahead and tell it to call for heat. If we don't get a W signal, then we know it's junk and it's just getting ripped off the wall. And what they'll like about this one is you can keep people from turning it up too high so we can make it so they can't turn it no higher than 70 degrees, which honestly they probably would like. That keeps idiots from coming in and turning it up real high and wasting electricity. Okay, let's go in here and get some fresh wires. Strip that back, because you really don't want to do that with your pliers if you don't have to, because I've done that before where I've cost a short. We'll just go ahead and get these ones here. All nice and togetherness. One wire, one wire. Put it up there. I got that nice hole in the wall there so they can have cold water air come through. So we'll raise it up a little higher to help keep that from happening. There's that blue on the other side here. We're gonna go ahead and give them the parts that we replaced. We'll just lay those parts there. We'll leave product information here so they can program it not that they need to. All right, so what we're gonna do now is we're gonna go ahead and program this thing. So that's electric furnace and that way it'll bring on that G terminal. Here we go, air to air. Heat pump, geothermal, steam. Electric air handler number four. There is ampadurallm being checked. We've got forest lobel. Thermostat wire, we got 0.2, that's good. Going off of the big wire here, 43.9 amps. Sounds like both of them are working to me. Here's what sucks. Yeah, that's gonna shut off instantaneous, but there's still be heat on there. I don't like it, but it will work. Do we roll our chances? Because if that thermal fuse would blow, you're not gonna pick one of those up at the local Walmart. Ooh, it's nice and warm in here. Okay, turn her down. I wonder if we can delay fan this sucker. This thing, I don't think it has a delay fan. Okay, yeah, this one doesn't have it. Our Venstar stats that we use do have it. Let's go out there and see if we can feel much heat on it. There's definitely some heat in there. You wanna be careful because one leg is gonna be live. All I think we could do is we could put a heat sequencer in parallel with a fan and that way it always runs for a little while after the fact. This one here, I'm pretty sure was bad. The fan wasn't coming on. And I almost think that I may even done it. I don't remember. And they said it wasn't a big deal. So, whatever. Remember that wire I couldn't find? It fell down on the ladder. There it is. Well, not messing with it now. Okay, so it went and got a Mars 33241, which is 24 seconds on and 45 to 75 seconds off. So, we're just gonna put that thing in parallel with the relay, the contactor. Like I said, the contactor's gonna be for the immediate close and we'll just mount that turkey right in here like this right there and we'd be good. There we go. Fits in here like a glove. Good deal. Okay, and we're just going to take our power wires here for low voltage. And we're just gonna put them in parallel with the contactor. Slide that underneath her like that. We'll just jump that. We use the red for that. And they got two sets of prongs on this relay. So, we'll just hook it right on the bottom of it. Put it right in parallel like that. There we go. And just to make it easy for the next yahoo that comes along, we'll go ahead and use a black one so they can kind of tell that that's common. Now, you do not want to put this in series with it because, or remove it, because it doesn't come on fast enough. You want that to come on immediately for that heat sequencer. You notice, because contactor, if that sequencer comes on immediately, and if you were to do that, then you'd have issues. And look at that, we've got that other one here that's sharing that one that I just put on there, which we can go ahead, keep the one, we'll jump the other. Let's put that underneath one, one crimp on, we'll have to use one of our little splitters. Okay, so that's gonna put the heat sequencer in parallel. Now, we just gotta jump a fan wire over there and this one over there. Yeah, that's that same petal-y-dink wire there the fan that we had on the other one. So, yeah, it's no big deal, so we can go ahead and use this red one. Tighten it up a touch, because it's not real super tight. There we go. And what we can do, we'll just stick that one right there with that one. Usually it's easier to do with the yellow than it is with the blue ones. And I can tell right now, I'm gonna probably need to go grab another crimp on. Okay. That puts them in parallel. And then this one here, one thing, we'll just jump this one though. Since it has two terminals over here to the left, we'll go ahead and hook that on there. And then we'll run one from the relay over to there. And then we will kick it on, we'll see it come on immediately. Normally it's gonna run for at least 20 seconds, 30 seconds. By that time, this will energize and close. Boom, with it. And when this one unhooks, soon as it shuts off, this will still be closed. And then this will time out and then shut off. Simple as that. From there, to the contactor. Like that. And I've got one wire here I wanna get undone because I'll snip it from the backside, and now it comes. All right. Okay. All right, let's turn it on. I really don't like that. That sounded better. That's better. Okay, good. All right, let's go ahead and turn it on. We would leave that with them too, since theoretically that was why we had to put that delay in there and trying to get this stupid thing, even though it's ICM. We got her on heat. It's crank her up. There we go. It just came on. Immediately came on. It's on heat. And we are pulling 43 amps. All right, let's turn this thing down. Like maybe 60. Okay, we are pulling one amp, which is the blower, and it's still running. That means our contactor has let loose because the call for W has gone away. Theoretically, G's gone away, because you can go here to common to green. We got nothing, but you can see, and it just shut off. There it just stopped. So that's gonna give it enough runtime that will allow it to cool itself down. So there you go, guys. That's pretty much what we did. This is only pulling an amp. So this wire that's only probably about, I don't know, 16 gauge can easily handle. I think it's about probably 10 amps or better. Don't know without looking it up. I don't usually use 16 gauge that often, but either way, it can easily handle an amp. Well, if you guys enjoyed the video and you wanna see more like it, check out the other ones that are in the corner here and here. And until next time, guys, we'll catch you on the next one. Thanks for watching. Later.