 Welcome to another video tutorial, this time it will be about improving your model with resin parts. Resin parts could be sometimes more expensive than the original plastic kit which you want to improve. Some people do not like disassembled models, but if you belong amount hobbyists who like to see mechanical innards and you adore dissecting model to the last bolt then this tutorial is made exactly for you. There are many companies which make resin parts, for example IRS, QuickBoost, Eduard and a lot of others. Why they use resin? Because small manufacturers can make these parts in domestic conditions without buying expensive machinery. They can work with simple molding techniques where a mold is filled with liquid synthetic resin which hardens after a while. Large companies which produce professional resin parts have of course better procedures and machines. Ordinary plastic kit is limited by physical properties of polystyrene. Therefore it is impossible to cast plastic parts in very thin size in 10th of many meters. The topic is much more complicated and I will not further describe it here. As you can see the details of resin parts are absolutely astonishing. Each part consists of the main part and the mold stop. It is place where liquid resin flew into the form, stops must be removed. Resin is harder and more bitter than polystyrene so we must be extra careful. The best practice is to use a small saw. I recommend to use a razor saw or it can be a ordinary saw by rather something smaller than a tree saw. Engine replica from Spitfire consists of many smaller parts and they must be put together in similar way when you building traditional plastic kit. It is necessary to accurately and straightly grind the bonding areas. You can use an ordinary sandpaper or an electrical micro grinder. It is not possible to make rings when you using two part mold because after molding you would not be able to separate them from the form. Therefore wires have a thin membrane which must be removed. Perhaps it would be better to not include wires into the mold at all and manufacturers would only indicate their position since anybody can glue a piece wire himself. One solution is to remove resin wire with a knife and replace them with metal wire. But why do it easy way? If you have a micro drill you can also relatively easy remove a membrane using a small drill. At last you will practice your patience. Which glue to use for resin parts? I mostly use a common super glue but you can also use a two-component epoxy adhesive. Both bonding areas must be sanded and roughened. So the glue bonds onto both parts is better and very firmly. Now I glue a few smaller parts. It on resin is that it does not melt as a plastic. So you can grind and drill components to very thin thickness. What you probably can't avoid when you will be modifying plastic kit is cutting holes making different caps and lids. You can't either drill the holes and neatly grind them or you can use a razor saw and cut them out. The procedure is useful if you want to keep the original parts. If you drill them out then you destroy them in the process. Since the kit is made by Edward and all accessories too it's quite obvious they wave pretty very good together. However it may not be always the case so sometimes it's necessary to use a little party and improvisation. I show you the resin gun bay and the engine but this is not all. Another great example are the landing flaps. An alternative is to use photo etched parts made from metal but it is difficult to shape them and glue them together correctly. With resin parts it is much easier because they are almost ready in the beginning. The only problem was they correctly glue them into the right spot. Again I use a razor saw and sandpaper. The plastic part is still too thick so it needs to be made thinner by grinding. Like with super glue nicely flew under the resin parts. It is just necessary to ensure the accurate positioning. Once the glue hardens you will not be able to detach it or at last it will be very difficult. Painting is quite the same as painting ordinary plastic kit. The paint adheres to resin very well and the resin is resistant to all common synthetic thinners. Metal with edited resin parts look like this.