 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTechTools. Quality tools, essential support. All right, so we've got a beauty salon here. It's not working right. So come back here to check out the furnace. And we've got to move half the chair so we can get into it. So we need to see what's going on. They said it just came on. Everything's working now. But it hadn't been working up till just recently. Let's see if I can get this comfort junker to work on. I'm not sure why thermostat showed warmer than the room temperature like they turned it down. I don't know if they cranked it up and it stopped or what. Just looking at it real quickly here. It looks like the thermostat, the flame sensor dirty. Probably hasn't had anything cleaned in it for quite a long time. So before I get changed anything, I want to see this thing run. See whether it ears out. Or what it's going to do. Before I get changed things, sometimes you fix it and you just don't know what you did. So you're better off to watch it run for a while first and before you change things. Go ahead and check this flame sensor rectification. See if it's very good. So I'd love to be able to catch it doing whatever. That's awesome. You got to love it when your whole back flips upside down like that. That's just awesome. Ain't nothing better than having that happen. Because there's no place to put anything in here. Got to love it. Alright, so what I did is I killed the furnace, pulled the flame sensor off. I've got it held in my hand here. Got one probe on the flame sensor. I want to see what I have before and after when I clean it. Kind of telling me if I'm in the right track or not. I mean right now it's running. I don't hear any gurgling in the drain. So it's kind of hard to say what exactly caused this problem. So all you can do is go off what you know has been the multiple problems over and over again. And just try to eliminate those one by one. And that way you've gotten it. So as soon as this thing powers down again, we'll be able to check and see what we get. Got 1.8, 0.7. So we are really, really, really low. It's, that looks like crap. It should be usually 3, 2.3, 3 somewhere in a ballpark. And that's super low. Let's go ahead and clean that thing up. I think we're going to know for certain that something weird has gone on here. So the flame sensor is right here. Some people like to replace these, which unless they're cracked or warped, there's never a reason to replace them. Somebody just wanted to sell you something. But you can see it's a little bit corroded looking. Now, Ted, old anti-HDIY, he likes to use a $100 bill on these. I don't know. Maybe you should grab a few $100 bills and clean it. But honestly, I've always had the best luck with my wire brush, which I use a stainless steel. That doesn't hurt your fingers. It ain't going to hurt the flame sensor. It doesn't leave grooves. So let's go ahead and get this thing cleaned up. Now let's recheck that and see if it looks a little better than what it was before. This is a way of knowing if you're on the right track. So we've got it plugged back in exactly the same way we did before. Let's see if our microamp reading is a little bit better than what we had before. Ready? That's quite a difference. I didn't look that dirty. It was. You can see that right there. So that's what was wrong with it. No, I'm going to go ahead and clean the condensate trap anyway because they're always getting plugged up. And they said they just replaced the air filter. So anyhow, let's go ahead and get the trap out of there. And then between this and the wall. Oh wow, look at all that crap in there. Yeah, it's got some milk. Milk-a-mole mylanto on there. That looks really nice. Looks a lot better. Now we can get the whole bottom very good. I went ahead and turned the power off so it's going to run the blower now for one minute. Which gives us time to get this back together before it kicks back on. Great be able to see what I'm doing. If it's to the air. That came off too. See that? That right there caused a problem. So that looks like that popped right off the other side too. But it wasn't on there with a squat. Okay, let's see if we can get that a little bit better on there. Get that on that collector box. That connects to the pressure switch. And then we've got to put a screw in there which you've got to be really careful when you're over tightening it. Crack it. Not again, just like that. Now it should kick on and run just Jim Dandy. All the hoses are well attached. That pressure switch though, at least as that was, could have been possibly just barely touching. Could have been falling off. But that flame sense was the majority of it. If it wasn't one thing, it was definitely another potential. It's burning pretty clean. Everything looks really good and smooth. Ever since these nitriding niters, we really haven't had any problems with any of that crap anymore. It's definitely an improved furnace over what the old ones were. I'll see how that indicator there gets so red. It's always a bad sign because that's why those get dirty so quickly. They must have used a cheaper metal. That tends to absorb any contaminants that are floating in the air. They tend to get blocked up and it bakes right into them. That's what I've noticed. Train used to have a bunch of igniters like that that got, or flame sensors like that, that used to get glowing red. Linux never did. They didn't do much of anything right towards the end there, but generally their flame sensors were pretty reliable. Maybe not. I never mind scrapped that. So you see how that was the majority of the problems was they were always dirty. They lasted forever, they just needed leaned. I just looked down below. I didn't see anything down there, so I think I got everything. Check temperature rise. Let's see what we got. Looks like about 130. If you got 72 coming back. That's right about 60. It's kind of close, but you got to remember we're getting radiant heat right off this coil. Even though it's blocking some of it, you're still getting radiant heat. 130 is not out of line, so I'm not too worried about it. We're looking pretty good there on that. It looks like somebody's already checked it once before because they had this all here. That's probably why it was tripped out before. The filter caused it to... Which is a cheap one inch filter. Caused it to tri-trip limit. So all this equipment up here has been pretty well beat up by the hail. That's why they need to have hail guards on it. You can't even push that over anymore than what it already is. I thought, yeah, this one has a bad ignition module and that one back here does too. We've got filters here to bring up. Get a little filter box puller. This thing makes it so easy to pull up. I'm going to pull this thing up. I'm going to pull this thing up. I'm going to pull this thing up. I'm going to pull this thing up. This thing makes it so much simpler. Even though it sounds like a kind of dumb thing, what I'll do is I'll literally put the filters on top of the units. That way I know I've gotten to them and got them done. Kind of just makes it a little easier. This unit here, like I said, needs a new control module. And a pressure switch. The L Series, I haven't got a lot of these around here. Which they're getting old now. Not even all that fancy anymore. But originally, the belt was loose and this pressure switch had done taking a poo poo. So that pressure switch was shutting her down. And I had plenty of pull on the blower to verify that there was an actual blower running. So the control module has been updated. Because those little blue modules there were totally garbage. We had those very similar to that in the residential market. And then this is just the replacement pressure switch. Which is one of those Costa Rica's had several of these go bad. So we'll get that changed real quick. We're not going to leave it too much. Because you leave it too much. And I've had times where that pockets water. Especially when it gets colder. Really should be higher than. But since this really is a humongous deal. Far as any heat or anything like that. And it's not such a problem. If it's on a draft motor. I'm like saying 80% or that was more of an issue back in the day. So I'll just put it in a month. In a year. There we go. Alright, so we got that done. Not real high tech here. This is a direct spark ignition control. Basically we've got ground flame sense power. And main valve. That's it. We literally got four or five wires. Five wires. Go ahead and get that updated. Which, like I said, this thing just had issues. Okay, so. Now some of these actually will say don't mount them this direction. Yeah, it doesn't have that. You gotta sometimes watch and make sure that this one doesn't have it written on there. So I'm not going to worry too much about it. So here we go. Got ground. Which is a little tight. Let me turn that up. We're loosening that up a touch. Those look like aftermarket wire ties. Probably changed once before. I remember having a lot of those go bad. I think it's just had a bad run of about everything. Pressure switches. Ignite ignition modules. You name it. It seemed to go bad. Common and ground is the same terminals there. So. Get that in that spot. Basically this thing works. It just powered. Boom. It starts sparking after a delayed trial there. Powers down here. That really gave you a lot of room to get to it. Flame sense. There's that. Main valve is blue. Heck even they had issues with their ignition wires. They decided to go with this carbon wire. And then end up burning off. So. Yeah, they just had so many problems. I don't really miss working on their stuff. I really don't. I really don't. So we could mount it like that so you could actually probe it for voltages in case you ever need to check it to see if it's getting powered or running. And get that self-tapper in behind it. Maybe. This thing had a hold novar system originally on it. And they had to put a board in there to convert it over. They had a wire taking some of those wiring harnesses there. Out of the circuitry. Coming up to this. And then I forget which board it was. It was one of these boards. But basically it converted it over so it could go normal. I forget exactly. So I wrote down the things they had there. It's schematic from Linux. Even to this day I still have issues with them. They are some of the worst schematics ever. There's spark. High voltage. Flame. No color. They've got to love their thought process behind this. There we go. Alright so we've got that one done. It cycles fine. Got all the filters cleaned up. They're all off the roof. And we got this wired up. Just to make sure it cycles heat. And then we can get out of here. See if we can get on there without shorting this out. There to there. There we go. One cool thing is they do got LEDs. Can't really make them out but you can see that it is the yellows on. Alright it just came on. Not sure if my recording got the last bit. So it just came on. Draft motors on. Blowers on. Make sure we unhook. This is definitely something that happens every now and again when you jump them. You forget to take them off. Which is never a good thing. So that should tidy this one up. On to the next call. Not sure where we're going. But I'm sure we'll be there eventually.