 What's up guys I'm back with the vlog feels good to be back. I was away last week So that's why you weren't seeing so many videos coming out. We were at the ABS Chicago show That hair show was pretty cool. We did a lot of fun things the whole free salon education team was out there So hopefully we got to say hi to you Today on the vlog I'm super psyched because we went to we did a men's cut obviously you can see him staring right there We did a men's cut, but I did a combo cut of scissors razor A few different things to create the texture that you're gonna see in this longer men's cut The great thing about this cut is that it's very versatile and it's for those guys They're growing out their fate it gives them a goal to go towards when they're trying to grow their hair out So a lot of guys are trying to grow their hair long now instead of fading it out so this is definitely a good transition cut for you and That's pretty much it. So I use my DB 20 scissor from Mizutani also my 7-inch solid scissor I use the chopstick pro from Donald Scott all this stuff that we have on free salon education comm I think you're gonna dig the technique and if you love tools, this is definitely the cup for you very simple and That's pretty much it. So we're gonna get started. Let's go here. We go with a step by step All right guys, so we're gonna start off by taking a center parting what I want to do is I want to split the head in half Because I'm gonna work on each half of the head, but I wanted to work from the occipital bone over So that's just the easiest way most men's cuts. You're gonna create are gonna start with a balanced structure. So Sectioning in a balanced way works the best So we're gonna start off by taking a vertical section straight out from the head now Elevation is the key to this haircut being In a form of what men are gonna like what I wanted to do is create Layering not too much graduation. So in the back the occipital bone Kind of bends down towards the nape. So what I'm doing is I'm elevating up higher than that To create that kind of at least 90 degree if not a little bit higher angle in the haircut Everything's coming over to the previous section So traveling guide across the back of the head and we're just working our way all the way over to the corner So everything's just gonna keep coming straight back creating that more balanced shape in the back of the head Now you'll notice that I shift the way I hold my scissor towards the bottom section That's just so I don't have to twist my wrist too much It's just a technique that you'll see some people using just for a comfort thing more than anything So working my way down Now what I've done is obviously created a lot of length on the bottom We're gonna go through and cut that later using a different technique. So When I'm doing haircutting, I'm not always Going straight for what I want the length to be I'm working with the layers first getting the layers where I want them and then I'll deal with the length later Throughout the cut. So I'm keeping my body position the same now when I'm going through I'm scooping the hair So I'm doing more of a backhand comb technique What that's gonna do is keep the consistency of how I've been combing the hair throughout the entire cut We've talked about this multiple times every vlog on Always combing towards your guideline. So my guideline is coming from the center or from the left So I'm combing the hair towards the left to meet the guideline Anytime you move your guide or you comb your guide towards the new hair You're shifting your guide from where it lives and you're gonna throw off your entire haircut. So Scooping that hair bringing it to the guide and then just working that palm to palm technique The same exact way that I did on the opposite side. This is building our structure This is really setting the layers in the back of the head This is the most important part of the cut because if this is too bulky or too Built up too graduated. It's gonna complete. It's not gonna look like a men's cut It's gonna look like a women's cut and that's not what we want or it could get moldy if we leave it too long So really getting those layers right now a lot of you are probably asking well, how do I get the layers, right? How do I? Pick the length of the layers. I think it's just based on your guests So just figure out where you think the layers are gonna be comfortable and then give them Maybe a month's worth of growth so they can come back in and get it cleaned up Now we want to round off the back. I don't want to square it The reason I want to round it is because I'm gonna connect it to the back portion So we started off. I use my DB 20 scissor now. I'm using my chopstick pro from Donald Scott. This is another I think 35 to $39 tool on free salon education I love this tool for women's cutting and men's cutting but this is where if I want to get in tighter to the head so We use the carving comb and we're working with layering and texturizing with this This is more for a precision type feel if you want to get really close to your section more like a feather razor So I'm combing and I'm working the angle across Creating that horizontal line and then I just shift into the corner and round that corner off Which kind of gives it a nice hug to the hairline So now I comb the hair in the direction. I want to part it That's another key thing that I like to do I like to get the hair flowing and then go for my parting just keeps you from getting tangled up in the hair And then I'm working diagonal back. So I want to start off. I'm gonna find my connection point now This doesn't have to be exact. It's how long do you want the front of the hair to be? I want him to be able to tuck this hair back So I'm gonna go a little bit longer with it and my strokes with the razor are nice and heavy because that's gonna Give me a lot more texture in the haircut. So you'll notice that a nice heavy stroke through there It's gonna. Give me a very point-cutted feel point-cutted if that's a word. I'm gonna go through there and just Do those heavy strokes create that texture guys hair is all about texture at this length Because it's not only gonna give them a cool look But it's also gonna take out a lot of the bulk which is what we want to accomplish now If they have finer hair You might want to create some more solid lines in there because they're already gonna have that separation and definition in the haircut So just working the round of the head diagonal back sectionings following the round of the head and The elevation is nice and high want to create layers. I do not want to create too much graduation Once you get to the top part like around this point right here There's a little bit of graduation happening But because of the heaviness of the strokes on the razor you're really breaking down that Graduation you can see how the flow just works. I love this technique Like I said in the beginning. This is a great haircut for guys that are trying to grow their hair out You could wear this haircut until it's about down to your shoulders So you would do the same exact technique just keep working it a little bit longer each time So flowing into the back This is absolutely at graduation at this point because the crown of the head is our top point So coming straight out off the crown would be 90 degrees So we're at almost zero, but again heavy strokes of the razor helps counteract the heavy density that might happen in the haircut Same thing on the other side working that diagonal back section connecting it to the back portion that we cut at the beginning Heavy strokes of the razor keeping that razor blade at 45 degrees I've seen a lot of people in classes that keep the razor at 90 degrees To the hair which is scraping the cuticle and that ruins the hair You want to keep that blade at 45 degrees. It should feel like you're barely cutting anything when you're cutting with the razor As you go over the hair that that's how you know you're doing it, correct So keep working diagonal back Heavy strokes like I said Creating that texture taking out that density. That's the beauty of working with the razor I love working in the middle part with the razor the beginning I was building that structure so you could do it with the razor as well But I like building stronger Structures for my base with harder lines and then going through and softening the lines over top of the haircut I think a lot of people get caught up with the fact that alright I started it with with a scissor so now I got to finish it with the scissor You don't have to do that you have many tools to do the job and and there's different ways of going about different things So the razor is going to create a completely different look than the scissor and they go well together So now we're going to work through the top taking horizontal sections across the top the first one We're going to work as our guide our guide is coming from the back to connect the front and back Then I'm going to work that horizontal section over direct it to the previous Until I get to the middle of the head Then I'm going to over direct everything all the way back to the middle of the head to create extra length in the front So you can see that there the reason I want to create the extra length in the front Is because he's going to toss it back and I don't want this haircut to look like it's following the round of the head I want that kind of heaviness to flop over the top I think that's what gives this haircut kind of a cool look So over directing everything back using a lot of point cutting. This is back with my DB 20 scissor again This is my favorite all-around wet hair dry hair scissor Is a 5.7 inch DB 20 from as a Tani that we have on free salon education now This is the Mizutani solid. This is my 7 inch scissor that I love for scissor over comb The reason I like a longer scissor for scissor over comb is just the amount of hair that you can cut at the same time as you're working And also the solid scissor. This is a brand-new scissor. This is the titanium version The cool thing about it is that because it has the titanium plating It's even stronger and it just flows through that hair so fast So even though it's a 7 inch scissor, which would normally get weak towards the tip. It's not weak whatsoever So I really dig that scissor for scissor over comb now when you get the titanium plating Just so you guys know if you order it on our site It's a $50 upgrade and it takes a little bit longer to get the scissor if we don't have it in stock But it's worth it now We're gonna go through with the tip of the chopstick pro and just work the edge This is great for women's cutting and men's cutting just to soften And create more texture around the edges of the haircut Now I'm gonna go through blow drying just with my hands not a lot of drying Now a big mistake that guys make is they put product in their wet hair now Water the products that are normally made for guys are water-soluble, so they rinse out easy So if you put them in wet hair it dilutes the product too much and then they just end up looking greasy this so you get it About 90% 80% dry and then put in we're using the rusell blue pomade Which is just a really thick firmer hold Pomade, but it still gives a lot of movement to the hair and a lot of shine So I dig this product for this cut. I Love if I had the right hair. I would definitely wear this cut. I love the length in the back I love the top just kind of kicked over. So I hope you guys like this cut Definitely check out more of our cuts every day at 10 a.m. On this vlog. Thank you guys so much for watching check out free salon education comm if you guys like this cut make sure that you hit the like button hit the subscribe button and Share this video just copy the link share this video with all your friends and make sure that you hit that little button That allows you to know to get no alert every time we post a video so you guys can stay On top of everything that we're doing because we're posting videos every day So make sure that you're on our list. Thank you guys so much for watching and I'll see you guys on the next video. Thanks