 Hi, I'm Christine from Colorfits, and I have a resin tip for you. All right, so I'm here to show you how I mix my medium with my paint, and then hopefully we can create some great lacing and cells for you. So I actually use an Elmer school glue. It acts as a really great binder to keep the paint and the pigment together. So I'll just add my glue first. And the great thing about the glue as well is you don't have to use as much paint when you're using a thicker medium. It will really take on the color. So I use about an ounce of glue and even half of an ounce of the paint. When I start slow, you want to mix the glue and the paint and get that all incorporated first, that way you're not losing any of the pigments. And then add your water slowly. You can't take the water out of it, so it's easier to add slowly than it is to take away. Now add some water. And again, I'll only do a few drops at a time just to make sure I'm not going overboard. If it's too thin, your paints will tend to pull apart from each other, break apart, look like they're splitting almost. So you want to make sure that you do have enough binder and paint to keep the pigments together. For a Dutch pour, you're just going to need more water to make it a little bit more fluid, but the same recipe will work for any technique, just less water. The slower the better. That way you don't get a whole lot of air bubbles in your mix, and then that way when you're pouring, you won't have all of those little white spots. And so the consistency I'm looking for is kind of like if you were to warm up honey or even art resin, the consistency of it when it's warm and it's easy to flow. So right now it's still a bit too thick. As you can see, it's taken its time to fall off the stick. But you want it to be pretty thin, but not too thin. Perfect. So now it's running off of my stick fairly easily, and then we'll be able to move on and put the base down and see if we can get some cells. Okay, so now that that's done, I'm going to start with my base. I mixed up the white the same way I did with the blue. And you just pour it directly on your stick to spread it around. If you want to make sure you have a pretty decent base, you don't want it to be too thin or else it's not going to have enough paint to flow across the canvas. So now we will add the color and see if we can get some great cells and lacing for you. So for the dutch pour I like to flood around, just give it a little bit more insurance that it's going to move. And now for the fun part. All right, so if you notice that your cells aren't showing up right away, you can always add the torch to the mix, and the heat from the torch is always going to bring those cells right up to the surface. There we go. Okay, so as you can see here, we're getting some nice blue cells where the white has gone over the blue here. And where the blue is getting blown out softly into the white, it's creating all of this great blue lacing here that you see. So in the white spot, we're getting cells, and in the blue spots, we're getting lacing. But any time you are going to use metallics with a flat base color, that's where you're really going to get some cell reaction. Another trick I like to use to create lacing and cells in my paintings is to try adding multiple different brands to one painting, and you'll get great results. And that's your resin tip for the day. Thanks for watching, bye.