 My name is Sergeant Mike Fitchley with Delta Company 235. I'll be taking you through the latest piece of equipment to be issued to the Light Fighters of the Traffic Lighting Division. This is a class on the ENVGB and the FWSI, where they enhance night vision goggles, binocular, and the family of weapons sites individual. During this class, we'll be going through the equipment that you'll be issued, proper PMCS, mounting, operations, and also troubleshooting. For the beginning of this class, we'll set aside the FWSI and we'll focus on the ENVG. Let's begin with a layout. You all have to risk getting issued your nods, and these nods will come in a small multi-cam bag. I recommend keeping this bag on you, especially if you're in a mounted unit to keep from losing your criminal in the field. You come out with a helmet mount that will carry both your battery pack and your nods mount. Inside of this is a small antenna that feeds from the battery pack, which also has the computer, up to the nods. Inside of this has a small antenna, so make sure to take care that that antenna stays inside of that. Also included is your PA, your positioning assembly, your battery pack, and the computer that controls your nods with the FWSI. This also comes with two eye pieces to help keep it close to your face and to reduce light signature. Two small Velcro straps for mounting to the current generation of helmet and a small assembly kit. Also what comes with it is your small manuals. You have two of those, a cleaning kit, and protective lenses. It comes with two lenses, two for the front and two for the back. That is your equipment layout for the ENVGB. Before I go into mounting the ENVGBs, this entire system with the batteries in weighs two and a half pounds. It can be submerged under one meter of water for up to 30 minutes. And it requires four lithium L91 batteries. It can use other lithium batteries, but you'll just have a different lifespan to what the basic, what is current operational specs are. Operating this thing in fuse mode, which we'll go into a little bit later, is seven and a half hours and then it can go into one hour of non-fused mode or an I squared. To go into mounting, we'll start with our helmet and our UMA, or UHMA. Take our little straps. The new generation of helmets that will be getting issued out will not require these straps as you can mount them directly using a little set of screws. But the current generation of ACHs requires these Velcro mounts. So just like any normal mount. So when mounting this, there's a small antenna that feeds from the battery pack to the FWSI itself. Now, whether you're left-handed or right-handed requires you to put it on one side or the other. There's a small street that holds it in place. And so before you mount your BII onto your helmet, make sure that you take this and you put that antenna onto the side in order to give you a better view between your battery pack and the FWSI itself. Also when mounting this, make sure to keep all these wires right up in here. Make sure to keep these inside of this mount because you don't want those getting exposed or getting pinched between the helmet and the UHMA itself. So when taking this, you want just to go with the standard screw through the front, take this piece, it goes into a small flat-tip screwdriver. You don't have to tighten it down. So now that we have the front part mounted, we take the back part and there's two small slats. Take your small Velcro strap, gain the fuzzy side inside and take it through the back, seating out. That small little piece will just sit up inside of it and then do the same thing to the other side. At this point, taking it over your helmet, we can now adjust this small screw on the back. So we take our flat-tip, can loosen it. So just a little bit to them as necessary. This thing right here allows us to give a little bit of slide inside the back of this. We can take it down to as close to the back of the helmet as we need to. Watch in this case, I want it as close to the bottom as I can to get the tightest fit I can. At this point, I utilize the Velcro inside the helmet. As you can see, I'll feed this right up to it. So now I have my front bolted down, my back, my plate extended all the way down and then I'll take my straps and put them up to the inside of this. Now that that's mounted, I go into the next piece of this, which is my battery pack. This is more than just a battery pack, this is the brains for the entire system. Inside of this small component has a small computer that controls all of this communication with the FWSI as well as between the nods itself as well as controlling the nods itself. For the battery pack, we just loosen these screws and we open them up. Now, batteries go in, positive side up and then with just a little bit of pressure, push down and it screws right on. Now we're mounting the battery pack for the positioning assembly where the nods themselves. All of this communication is done by these small boots. So when you mount it, it's important that these pieces are clean and that there's nothing to obstruct going in between the two of them. Now for the nods or for the battery pack, just sits down on the top of it and you can push it right on. Or if you need to, just squeeze it in, just a little bit. Just like that, I have a battery pack mounted. Now at this point, I can move over to my nods. I can remove my safety caps and with this comes two sacrificial, two sacrificial lenses that go on the back and that way it protects the lenses of these from scrapes or if you drop it or something like that. It's designed to take the brunt of any force or anything put onto it instead of the lens of the nods itself. So I can screw these on, open this up and I can now remove the front covers to both the eye screwed system and the thermal system. So the front of these have lifts or light interference filters. These are designed to protect you from any type of focus light. So laser is anything like that that can be used to blind your nods. These protect you from. Definitely recommend keeping those on. And then with the front of those also come small sacrificial lenses that go right on top of those. At this point, taking these little caps which maybe if you're going to the field you might want to remove. I take this and I take my PA. My PA, the same thing as any normal pair of nods making sure that these are clean on both of these and this boot. And they go together to hear a small snap. At this point, I can now mount my nods. So now that I have a fully mounted night vision system it can be stirred in three different ways. One is with nods down, both them up, both them to the side. The second one is with the PA raised but nods still out to the side or pushed back. And the final one is with nods all the way to the forward. Each one of these is a pro in its own way. Basically it just comes down to what type of profile you're trying to go for at the time. These nods can be operated both single and dual. So when using it and you only need to see through one either side can be dropped and if the other side is left up it'll just be shed off. If both of them are raised then both sides will be shed off. When it comes to individual preference, preference or getting it to where the user is needs, each side has a small little bar that can be rolled up and down and that little stop once you've adjusted it will always put it to the place that you need your nods to be. So all you need to do is lower it and it'll automatically stop at where you need to stop. Now inside of these nods a part of the fuse system is the thermal overlay. So if you need to rotate that overlay or you need to move it some there's a small screw that requires a flat tip driver that sits right inside of that and allows you to make micro adjustments to the nods itself on the mount. And while being able to make those small rotations so I can adjust that, say I want it all the way in. I can push it all the way in, tighten up the set screw and now the thermal overlay is all reset to my specific needs. That point I can then rotate in my nods, up and down. I'm good to go. When it comes to the nods themselves they have three modes of operation. They have I screwed, fused or TA and fused only. I screwed is simply the nods itself. You're looking through a dual white phosphorus tubes and that's all it is. Fused or TA is what allows you to attach this thing or connect this thing to the FWIS. And then if I go into fused only it does not connect but instead I still get a thermal overlay with what I'm looking through. Now to turn this thing on I simply use the front button with the nipple at the front of it. Long pressing in that allows me to turn on the I squared. Now short press again will allow me to turn on to fused or TA or fused only. Fused or TA allows me to connect this thing to the FWIS as well as brings up a compass that in a little bit I'll go into how to calibrate. Fused only will allow me to go into a thermal overlay without connecting to the FWIS. Say you don't have one or say that you don't need it you'll still get a thermal overlay. And if you go back again it goes simply into I squared and you'll be looking simply through a set of dual white phosphorus tubes. Now once I turn on my RTA or my fused only the back button will allow me to change the polarity of it including black hot, white hot and outline. Once I'm done with that I can long press the button with the nipple and I'll shut down my nods. As far as making adjustments inside your nods you can use the small little nod at the front. If you're simply in I squared rotating it will change your gain. If you go into fused or TA and you long press that it'll allow me to go into the system settings calibrate the compass and make adjustments to the system's gain and brightness. So once I go into fused or TA I can now have a compass that comes up. Now for me to adjust this compass I need to go to this little nod right here in the middle and long hold that and compass will come up. Now at that point just press on it again and I can now initiate my compass calibration. Now a little set of instructions will come up that include to tilt your head to each shoulder two times look up and down two times and then spin 360 degrees two times. You don't want it to be too fast but it also doesn't have to be super slow. And just like that I now have a calibrated compass. When you're looking through this there's a small blue, it looks like a horseshoe that might come up on the top left hand of your screen. If you see that what that means is that there's a magnetic disturbance and your compass is definitely or a very high probability that your compass is no longer calibrated. In addition to that you will still need to do calibrations every so many depending on like how much metal you might be around and anything like that, take them off, bring them on. You might still have to still do a calibration. It's not perfect though, give you a general direction. Once you're inside of fused ATR or you're inside of fused only all you need to do is begin rotating this knob and now you can control your gain. If you press it again, thermal contrast and you press it again, display brightness. Now once you've cycled through those you can make your adjustments as you need to. So now that we've gone over all three of those as well as how to use the illuminator that's pretty much it as far as the basics go for the operation of the ENVG. Now we'll go into the FWSI and how to connect them. So now that we've covered the ENVG B we'll now go into the FWSI or the family of weapon sites individual. Right now the current one that we've been issued is for 556 only, although the current generation still has software for 762. It's not designed to be used with medium automatic weapon platforms. It's only meant for emporers right now. So the FWSI is designed to be both a standalone and to be able to be integrated with current optics that we're using. So if you use a standalone it does need to be zero to the weapon and it comes with a riser. This is the riser that comes with it, a remote that comes with it. Again, if you're using standalone here's a small eyepiece designed to cover up the screen so a little bit better light discipline. And also a small in-between piece from adding this to a CCL or an ACON. So like I just said, this can either be used standalone or it can be used together with, right now it's set up for either an ACOG or a CCL. So the FWSI is the same as the ENVY-GV and requiring lithium L91 batteries. There's a small little compartment that unscrews on the side, opens up and requires three of these batteries. They go in, positive side in, and then again pressing down just a little bit and it can then screw it straight on. On top of this battery compartment are two little teeth and this is designed to hold the lens cap. The lens cap is a part of it, it doesn't come off the side itself. And so you can just slide it onto these two little teeth. Now, if you're mounting this on a weapon system, this is your riser. It just uses your standard Picatinny mount. A part of this is also the remote. This remote mounts into the small port on the side of the site. It can just be opened up and plugged in. It only goes in one way. And now I can control this site by using a simple remote on the side. For the use right now, I will mount the eyepiece, but traditionally speaking, if you're using as a standalone site, you would have that on. So for the functionality and for the use of FWSI, it has three buttons on it. And this thing has three modes, as PIP, FWS and RTA, which is your spatially aligned site. Long pressing, bottom button right here, we'll turn it on and off as well as short press, we'll access the menu. The button on the left side of it, short press will calibrate and long press will either allow you to realign your site or it lets you turn on and off, it lets you toggle your spatially aligned site. The right side, short press will change your field of view and long press will change your white hot, black hot. The FWSI has no thermal outline, it is only black hot, white hot. So now we're going to actually getting these two linked together. At that point, you go to your nods and you need to put it into fused RTA. So again, the small button with the nipple, you press it once, and it'll take you into fused RTA. Now at this point, this little knob in the middle, I can long press that, switch over to settings, and then at this point, I can go into wireless enable, and I press that, go back through it and hit join network. Now, this battery pack using this antenna at the front is looking for the FWSI. Using the FWSI, I can go to my menu, I can go to setup, I can go to either wizard or manual, each one will walk you right through it. And through that is where you choose your mode, your reticle, whether or not you're mounting it to a weapon, or you're going to be using it as a standalone, or you're going to be using it with another site. Then I can select RTA, make sure that the network is on, and then I can go with network configuration. Now, once you get to there, you can either add a device, or you need to do a new network if you're linking it to something new. And if something will come up, they'll ask you, are you sure, yes or no? I'm selecting yes. Now, these two have now linked together. And now, with my head turned, I can be looking the opposite direction. I can be looking directly at the LT. I see this entire room. Because now, using in my fuse RTA, the information from this FWSI is being put onto my screen. And so now I don't have to be looking directly at something. See, I want to clear a corner, but I don't want to put my head around the corner because that's not what I want to do. That's a very dumb way of doing that. Instead, I can just use my weapon with the FWSI and I can just look around it. And just like that, I can now acquire a target simply by leading my weapon around the corner. Going through different modes, using my right side, I can align it. I need to realign this right here. Yeah, just like that. Okay, now I've been realigned. Okay, now this is where your KBM comes in. It's a small little switch that comes along with it and it plugs right into it. Now, using my KBM as my switch for this, I can control, it's a remote, I can control all of this with. I can now switch, I can do my alignment using this very top button. I can switch my modes, whichever one I want. So now I can either put the, what I see directly into a small box and the site will be the big box. I can do this as spatially aligned or I can do it as what the site sees is a small box down in the bottom corner and then I'm still looking through. So all I have to do is check the bottom corner to see what my weapon itself is looking at. Now this is one of the big keys here, is getting this alignment down. So this is using the bubble site or the spatially aligned site. All I have to do is my alignment. And just like that, I've now aligned my site to be something that operates independently within what I'm seeing. So now I can be looking straight and this weapon site can be operating inside of my field of view. All I have to do is move it around wherever I need it, wherever I want it, if I wanna look around a corner and this thing leaves my field of view, there's a little red dot that follows the edge of it that tells me where that is. Bring it back into view and now without even moving my head, I can now just simply move around my site and it operates completely independently within my field of view. Now that being said, it does require realignment every few minutes or anytime there's been any major movement because it is still a little bit sensitive to general movement. And with that, I've now linked what I see through my nods directly to my weapon. So whatever my weapon sees, I can now see. One of the major focuses to this and one of the reasons why we've gotten these as soon as we have is because that allows us to operate primarily in subterranean or enclosed spaces in which making visual target acquisition without aid, very difficult. So now say you're operating inside of a sub T environment and I need to look around a corner, I need to check something. It's very tight, I don't wanna stick my head around, I don't wanna stick my body around it, I don't wanna send my new private up there. So instead, me operating inside of a confined environment, I can just use my weapon, I can check corners, I can check small spaces, I can check small hallways, whatever it may be, I can now operate inside that environment without having to expose myself or expose somebody else. So when it comes to employing this thing with a weapon system, either with a 249 or with an M4, what I can do is I can use this thing. Like I said before, there's a standalone site or put together with a CCO or with an ACOG. Now when I'm doing that, I'm using it with another site. This little shroud comes onto the end of it. And then without using the riser, it mounts directly to the rail with the CCO or ACOG mounting directly into this. And with that, I now provide a thermal view, which I can look through with my ACOG with my CCO. Now, if I wanna use this standalone, I need to use my riser. This thing goes directly under this and then my riser goes directly onto my weapon itself. If I'm using it by itself, I get my little piece, my little eye cup that makes sure I keep a little bit lower signature out there and it screws right on. And now I have something that helps block light. So I'm not exposing light. I have a better light discipline out there. And anytime I look through it, it gives me eye relief just looking right through my site. A part of the operation for the FWSI is being able to use the menu. The menu can be accessed by sure pressing the power button. It also says menu, so it's pretty good to take it away. And once you access that, you can either set up for calibration to be automatic or for you to do it manually. You can go to setup. From setup, you can either access the wizard, which will do most of this stuff automatically. You just simply select the weapon you want and then you select your site and you select RTA or non-RTA. And then it'll give you the option to zero the site, which at that point it walks you through zero in site. I'm not going to go into depth into zero in the site. This is part of the manual that comes with it and what you need to do and how you need to set that up. So for right now, we won't be going through zeroing as much as we'll just be going on how to get to that and how to use that itself. Once you've gone to that, so the wizard will do as much automatically for you as you can. Once you select your weapon, once you select your site and RTA or non-RTA, most of that will happen automatically. If you go to manual, at that point you can select your reticle for yourself. You can select your mode and then you can also select the optic that you're using. Now, if you're using it by yourself, you either need to use it in standalone, CCO for one time or a CO for four times. Inside of this one, they refer to it as the RCO, not the ACOG. And then once you do that, you can walk through all the rest of it. From the menu, you can also access the administrative work, which includes everything that you need for, it's all admin, so it won't pertain directly to you as much as it will with the site itself. And then that's pretty much it for the menu itself. Yeah, that's it for the menu. BE and VGB and FWSI allow increased situational awareness and lethality at an individual soldier level, while vastly increasing both unit modernization and flexibility. The FWSI and the ENVGB are one of the great steps to modernizing the current army as it stands.