 Hello everybody and welcome to another hobby cheating video today is gonna be a fun one It's all about speed painting and it's all about marines, and it's all about new contrast paints So if you've got an army, you've got to get done fast. This is the video for you. Let's get into it Let's strict techno man sir that is VinCV. Let us get to the technique and learn it VinCV style Look, we all want to paint our best Everybody's trying to improve But let's be honest for a minute. Sometimes you've got 20 40 60 80 marines or something to paint or whatever it happens to be and you need to get them on the table quickly Then today's video is for you because we're gonna keep it simple Today we're going to show how we can paint a reasonable quality grimdark tabletop standard marine Quickly in fact, we're gonna limit every one of these paint jobs to 20 minutes And the reason I'm doing that is because even 20 minutes on one of these marines when you multiply it out times 20 40 60 80 marines can be quite a lot of investment of time more hours than most people paint in a week Or maybe in a month or more So I wanted to keep this simple and effective and show you how to use these tools the best to get something Looks good. Which sort of the loyalist marines are kind of the easiest to do this with and which ones are the hardest So we're gonna go through all nine of the original founding loyalist marine chapters And we're gonna paint them as quick as we can Like I said, each marine will have a hard limit of 20 minutes and everything has to be brush painting No airbrush at all in this. We're starting from black primer I'm assuming it's exactly what you've got and there's no other special tools So this is all brush fast. We're gonna get them done and get them going. Let's get over to the painting desk Here we go nine marines primed Labeled ready to go. There is one white marine. That'll be the white scar ironically primed with white scar the new rattle can spray Everybody else is just primed in a dark gray black So let's get into it These are gonna go in the order of what I think is the most boring loyalist space marine religion To the least boring. So of course we begin with Raven guard the most boring of all Their color scheme is boring their lore is boring Everything about them is not interesting If you don't like that, you can go ahead and add me in the comments That's what I think about that But the two darker marines we're gonna start out with present a unique challenge because they're in mostly black Then there really becomes a question of like, what do we do here? So here I'm just doing a very light dry brush and you'll see all the paints scrolling up at the top as I go And then we're gonna see the first thing I do and you'll see me do this repeatedly Which is I'm not working with the contrast straight out of the bottle I think this is the first place a lot of people go wrong with contrast is they just use it straight Instead I have pre-thin to the contrast Depends on the color, but usually either three to one or two to one with three being the con or two being the contrast medium as you can see it's still quite effective and You really do get still a nice coat With that down. I'm then doing an extremely light dry brush focusing mostly on the upper areas But really just trying to pick out those edges We don't have time when we're speed painting to do some fancy-smancy Edge highlights so instead we're gonna just do an extremely light dry brush like I worked the paint off there for a long time And then by doing that I pick out all the vital edges Now the single pigment colors This is a ball red obviously as you can see but the important part about these is they're so Unbelievably powerful. They'll even put their color over black unlike most the contrast paints which basically do nothing And then painting the skin we're just gonna set some basic tones call it a day With the things like the red and the skin tone if you want that red to pop or the skin to pop there You need to really lighten things up so hence why I focused you'll notice a lot of the dry brushing and stippling of the early phases Onto the face and in fact I'm gonna push that a little farther. I bring in actually some more of the same Light paint and I just hit the the high parts of the face So this is like the cheeks the nose the jaw Everything along there Just to make sure that's fully popped up and highlighted And you'll see what we do with that in just a moment Metal bits we got to go fast 20 minutes metal bits are all over these guys So for this we'll be using exclusively Vallejo metal color and this is all steel It's a nice dark, but still perfectly shiny high opacity metal paint I can put down one coat call it a day be good to go and Just touching those critical elements that should be metal to make things stand out Final step is just to go ahead and give his face a little Wash to bring some of that color back in because those bright spots were really bright and as you can see there we go There's our finished Raven guard now. I didn't put shoulder pad decals on any of these guys except Except one of them. So you'll see that when it comes up You could obviously just add the shoulder pad decals and those will do a lot of work All right next up on the boringness chart We go to our second most boring Legion, which is iron hands both of the We're in all black with nothing interesting going on legions are first iron hands only get to be slightly cooler than Raven guard because They they like cybernetics, which is cool Now with the Raven guard everything I did was in a very cold highlight color So all the edges and everything like that was in that glacier blue To separate the iron hands who feel I want to feel more industrial a little more dirty things like that You'll notice we're using this heavily brown influenced dark tone now when it dries It's still going to be quite black as you can see there and You can sort of set your own level of investment in this as you'll notice in a while. I do wash this guy again So you really can sort of determine how brown you want in the brown black But to me that's an easy way to make the all black scheme more interesting Which is either tilt them slightly towards blue or tilt them slightly towards brown in either event You add more than just that boring black color and black is really nothing more than the absence of color It's just boredom in paint form So by you know tilting in some kind of hue an orange brown a bluish-white Whatever the case we can do a lot To make the figure more interesting Now the other thing I will say is that when you have Figures like this like space brains where they're mostly one material even when speed painting doing things like hitting the edges of the shoulder pad or You know hitting turning individual elements metal or a color goes a really long way Because it helps to break up that surface area And by adding in those additional areas of shine of color of visual interest You very much break up how people view the overall marine You can see here. I gave him a nice all-over knoll and then just doing in a very very very very very light dry brush The advantage to that ball red again super great for eye lenses Just a quick touch into there and bang bang. We've got an eye lens and there Is our iron hands all ready to go No problem. This guy was actually super fast. You know the advantage here I guess to this boring army is that you could do a lot of them very quickly Okay, now we're gonna go to The next one in in the line the the next least boring but still pretty boring and That is space wolves Now I have a longtime hatred of space wolves. That's because I started playing 40k in third edition sorry, but With this guy, you'll notice I'm dry brushing much much much heavier Right, so we're still sticking with that glacier blue, but you'll notice I'm really getting aggressive with it Working it in there and as I then switch over to my contrast color We're going to see the first time I apply sort of what I think of as the way to actually properly use contrast panes So here my first coat I'm not trying to be one coat and done I do think that the biggest mistake they made with contrast paints was advertising it as one coat finished I just I don't think that's accurate and I don't think that provides the best results Instead I started with a thin one-to-one ratio of contrast paint to contrast thinner and medium and then I come in with a three-to-one ratio of Contrast paint or sorry of thinner to contrast paint so quite thin And I just run a quick coat over the rest of it It flows so much smoother and it dries so much smoother And it really helps you avoid any of the coffee staining A very light soft dry brush You'll notice all of my dry brushing in this video is done with makeup brushes. These are cheap You can buy them in bulk packs at your local Pharmacy or dollar store or whatever you happen to have in your particular geography And they just do such a better job than flat dry brushes. Please don't buy flat dry brushes They're terrible by soft round makeup brushes for eyes and blush and you will be in such a better place Because I can do that nice soft dry brush and it just it doesn't get all scratchy Unless you look up really really close and again, this is speed painting. We're not looking close We're looking for something that looks cool on the table from three feet away. That's what we're doing The rest of this is all pretty standard just applying the metal as you've seen me do most times You will see this many more times I do end up off camera adding the gold for his shoulders. I just accidentally didn't record that. I apologize There's a lot of video here Um, but the same thing happens here because you have this much lighter scheme It's a lot harder to work with like space wolves are one of the hardest speed paints because there's so much white and light color In their overall scheme. It just makes it more difficult Uh, but with a quick application of ball red to the eyes. There we go. He's all done One of the things I do like about these techniques is it does make the armor look rough and scratched and things like that So if you like a little grim dark a little scratchy scratchy rough looking boys, this is a good way to go on about it All right next up, uh on the boring the scale Uh, it's time for ultramarines So with this guy again, we're going with an extremely heavy dry brush though. Of course, we've altered our color And you will notice with this guy that I'm actually going to do this in a couple of layers So you'll see what I mean here So I started by doing an all over dry brush and then I let it dry completely and set And then I do a lighter dry brush, but focused very much on the top on the exposed areas Even though when you first apply that dry brush the first time It's going to feel like oh, this is so much brighter Remember once you put the color over it, you're going to knock it back a lot So you want to go brighter than you think you need to Because the color will bring it back down so over highlight in that first step And then work it back down Once again, I'm doing the same thing that is to say starting with a one to one thin And then we're going to do a second layer of three to one thin The other thing I'd like to point out is how my brush is moving I know it's moving fast because I had to do this video in not a million hours Or real time and uh, and so There's, you know, where it to X feed But notice how my brush is always moving and sweeping around on the miniature I'm constantly going back into areas where I see wet paint Where it's pooling anything like that and I'm sweeping that paint into other areas Notice how little I go back to my palette The other thing I do here is I take a little bit of this very, very light color Which doesn't actually have much effect But I'm using it to just create a very soft highlight And setting it, almost glooping it onto those high areas When it dries, it doesn't have a chance to really do anything except slightly spread out So it doesn't pool or anything like that Those lighter colors can be a great final touch Like those soft contrast contrasts Can be a great final touch for your kind of highlights on your existing marines And I will say as a point of fact, I do like how the ultramarine came out I think you could easily do a whole army like this And it would feel perfectly reasonable on the table This time we're using the gold Because that's sort of their standard colors But the same basics are applying here across the board with hitting these things Now let's talk about mistakes Because when I'm doing these metallics It's inevitable that in some places I will make a mistake I will get a little metal paint where I didn't want it and so on If I were painting this for display Or I wanted to win best painted army or for a competition Of course I'm going to fix that stuff But when I'm painting for speed painting And this is just one marine of 20, 40, 60, 80 normal marines on the table Guess what? Whatever I just didn't have time At 20 minutes, you just don't have time And that's okay Normalize being okay with some minor mistakes Especially on troops Spend your time on centerpiece models Something you're going to see here is that those marines that Well their color kind of exists in sort of a true hue A highly saturated true color Green, yellow, red, and blue Oftentimes have the easiest paint job If we were going to extend this out to chaos We could do the same thing with something like emper's children Those that have sort of funny colors that are either very dark or very light Especially if they're a sort of off color that has a lot of blue and white in it So something with more opaque Will be a lot more difficult to speed paint and get a good quality result That being said We're going to tackle all of them And I'm going to keep sharing those tips and tricks Because it's totally doable We can get there no matter what your Legion of choice is All right, we're at the middle point of interesting This Legion is neither interesting nor uninteresting And that's Dark Angels Exactly where they always should be in the liminal state Between two opposing forces With this guy Because he's going to end up being quite dark We're starting with just a normal dry brush But this is the first time you'll see me go in With a stipple brush So here I'm using just a smaller round makeup brush And I'm really just forcing paint Stippling some texture onto those high areas So all those things that are high Now this produces a slightly different result Than dry brushing Because it forces a lot more paint onto the area quickly And the advantage to it is Because that paint is more intense And a little bit textured It will help add to the feel of that armor itself Being roughed, scuffed, and slightly textured It will also, as I said earlier, help that to survive Some of the darkening we're about to do through this color Which is itself quite dark Once again applying in the same ratio Where I start with a one to one And then going back with a thinner one The difference is this time to reinforce that I do come back and do just a little bit of dry brushing Before I come back in with the thinned down paint So the key here being I want those edges to keep popping I just want them to pop as a lighter green I want those highlights to still be highlighted So by reinforcing the highlighting I managed to keep that true green up there at the top Whereas the areas that didn't basically get dry brushed Will fall away naturally into shadow When we're working on the marines that are more Colorful, I guess is what I'll say To me the more interesting ones Then things like breaking up the surface Becomes way more important This is where that black Legion or black Templar Really does its work By hitting like the undersuit, the little black carapace Or whatever they have underneath That's showing through the armor It really goes a long way to breaking up all of that samey color And what I want to impress upon you here With this entire exercise Is that with some very simple tricks And sure my marines have mistakes And they're messy I mean I'm spending 20 minutes on painting a model It's not going to be perfect Okay But by creating these dabbing these colors around Right Making sure the gold is on the Aquila And on the shoulder areas And on the little thing in the center of the belt And so on It just helps to make it a lot more interesting For Caucasian skin tones, by the way Over that ivory color Simply two applications of Rykland Fleshade And Jobs of Good And you've got tabletop ready skin It's really that simple Just let the sculpt do all the work And you'll get some fairly nice pale pink Tabletop ready Caucasian skin But by breaking up these different elements in this way It creates a lot more visual interest on the green And you can still work quickly You know I'm not going in and shading this gold at all Other than what's on the Aquila in the center of the chest Because that's where people's eyes look Like I'm not doing any fancy magic on the shoulder pads Stripes or anything like that And we get a perfectly nice looking marine Now do I paint the eyes on these guys No, I do paint the little eye lenses Because those are easy But I'm not painting the eyes on the guys' skin And as a point of fact If you want to make your life a lot easier Just don't use space marines without helmets That's my best advice for the day Next up Now we're into the interesting marines Ones that I think are pretty cool So here we're doing salamanders And salamanders having a much lighter and interesting green color I really really want to push those highlights So again I'm doing this directional stippling Notice the only places my brush is hitting Is where the light is focused And then once all the paint's off I dry brush around that stipple to smooth it out This is where we get to the great speed painting tip One of the things you can do with those round brushes Is you can stipple on the intense singular spotlight effect And then once most of the paint is worked off You can use what remains as a dry brush To smooth in between as a transition between the layers Once again same principle here as you've seen repeatedly Starting with a one to one thin ratio And then going to a three to one thin ratio To create a more smooth overall coat of the contrast paint I should note that with the lighter colors like this You're still going to have a decent amount of patchiness Because they're not having a big effect on the surface underneath And all contrast paints dry a little bit Unevenly it's just the nature of the thing Unless you are really really smooth and careful with them Which were not when we're speed painting Here I decided to break up the green with a little black Because this green is so bright I can use this black legion And it's sort of satin nature To create something much more visually compelling By leaving the edges of the shoulder pad green And instead making the interior a dark color But notice how well that breaks up all of that surface area It makes the bright green seem more bright When it's next to a darker color Colors aren't just a thing in themselves It matters what you put next to them A bright color next to a dark color Will seem brighter than a dark color next to a dark color And just by manipulating these simple tricks of contrast We can really really really punch up the visual appeal of our marines Without really spending any more time Which is what we want when we're speed painting A little bit of ball red for some red eyes A little touch of sepia to the aquea aquila And we're good to go How many different ways will I pronounce that word? Time will tell And again, there's mistakes on him But if he was in a group of 20 dudes on the table He'd look perfectly fine Now a real challenge The white scar third coolest So here is where we use the new shade paint And what I like about this shade paint Is it is very very soft It is this very soft gray And I think it's legitimately built for exactly this purpose I could see the same thing working on like stormtroopers If you play a different game But and I'm this time I am using it as you'll notice I kept it in frame because I wanted to show This time I'm using the shade straight from the pot But my brush hasn't changed in how it moves Notice how much I sweep around soak up pools Work areas over and over again And really really spread that paint around That is so key and important when you're using these these paints I cannot impress it upon you enough You do not apply the paint You do not apply contrast paints Like you apply other traditional paints Where you set the brush down Move from A to B in a layer That is not how this works You are painting on the model Your brush needs to be moving You need to be using the fat wide section of the brush To be sopping up pools And sweep it around and push it into an even coat Over the surface Constantly readjusting and sweeping that paint Around on the model I very very very rarely go back to the actual paint Look at how much I do on the model And here I'm applying that second coat But mostly focusing just on the shadows This time instead of doing the metal I decided to use the ball red Because over white it's going to really pop And white scars can have these red shoulder pads Very commonly So I thought that was fun And it's just it has a really great look The cool thing about all the single pigment contrast paints The red, the magenta, the orange The yellow, the leviathan or whatever it's called Purple Is that each of them will be strong enough To do things like freehand That's right I got a little cocky on this one And tried to do some very quick freehand Which I promptly screwed up As you can see And made a mess There I did try to wipe it away real quick Because that red on that white was so noticeable But, and I made some little flames If you're having a problem with getting sharp thin lines Out of your paint to do some very delicate freehand Something like these intense new contrast colors Can be a great way to go Because they actually have a very high amount of coverage But they flow off your brush like an ink Making them a lot easier to manipulate So as long as you've got a brush with a good fine tip You can do some cool designs very quickly and easily So 10 out of 10 would recommend Probably spend a little bit more than the 30 seconds I spent on this So that you don't get something that looks like a goofy bad lightning bolt But with that final touch of serif mcpia to the aquila He is all done And there is our white scar And honestly I like how he came out The white scar spray paint is very nice It applies a nice clean smooth coat And the color difference works Second coolest legion And that is blood angels This time we're going to employ a completely different method This time from the beginning We are going to use our smaller Stipple brush And by the way it's the same round Dry brush I often use for Or same round sort of brush that I use for dry brushing However, this is just a smaller one And instead of sweeping around it I'm stippling it Again that creates texture And it also creates much more opaque layers of paint Now this time we're going full Richard Gray We're going to spotlight from the top His top left And I bet you thought that previous color was pretty bright It looked pretty bright Until I put the actual white influenced color on And saw just how bright it actually is Again over highlight your colors Because when you put on a really intense pigmented color Like I'm doing here with this He's just done in the ball red that I've been using the whole time He is going to get super bright I am once again applying this thinned first And then doing a second layer When you put a thin layer of red over white You do not get red You get pink But you'll notice after the second application I got a good smooth red But not quite intense enough So I go back in with the stipple brush This is all very fast And there I do another thinned Three to one ball red to contrast paint And what that produces is an intense bright Kick you in the face red in those highlight spots The other areas that didn't have that will appear much more dark And desaturated And it will seem as though the upper areas are super bright With just a small influence of pink Which is in fact how red often looks when it's very bright Just look at a red car out in the world And you'll see there's actually quite a bit of pink tones in it From here it's just of course finishing those details And popping out the little items that bring him home The Aquila, the edges of the shoulder pads and so on Same tips as always Same things I've been doing so far The nature of this particular marine I will use to talk about assembling your marines for speed painting And you might think to yourself, Vince, we're talking about painting What does this have to do with assembly? Ah, when you're speed painting and you've got to get an army done Even the assembly phase matters You notice how this figure is closed And by closed I mean his arms are in front of himself See how he's crossing his his bolter and his chainsaw in front of him That makes him a closed figure Closed figures are much harder to speed paint Because you've got to manipulate your brush much more carefully To not get it on critical areas So when you're assembling your marines Try to use arms and or positions that put them more open Where their guns or swords are out or up or apart from each other Since in some way it just makes it easier to speed paint Even at the assembly phase You can make progress towards a good speed painted army And there's our blood angel all ready to go Lastly, the coolest loyalist legion Of course it's imperial fists You knew it, I knew it, everyone knew it They're simply the best And so Here we're doing the same thing as we did with the blood angel We're doing this all over color, but we're starting much brighter And as a point of fact, I don't think I started bright enough I think I should have gone even brighter But hey, you learn in retrospect Once again, we're going for the heavy stippling to create that sort of texture I really like the sort of choppy textured look for space marine armor It just feels more grimdark, more John Blanche artwork to me When there's a roughness to the world Like this is armor that's been used and battle worn and scratched and dented That's my personal take on it, but whatever you like The new imperial fist yellow truly is a wonderful color I really cannot rave about this color enough And this is sort of where I realized that I had gone wrong It was at that moment, Vince realized that he had messed up That was because I left some of the other areas where I didn't apply the highlights Still a little too dark And the yellow got a little muddier than I wanted But that's a lesson for the future Same exact application that is to say two passes This time though, you'll notice I am working straight from the pot The imperial fist yellow because it's yellow is still so thin That it's and you know has such a low opacity That you really don't need to thin it as much It will still go over smoothly And as a point of fact, I really like how this paint spreads out and thins Like the imperial fist yellow is everything I always wanted than the yellow It would be one of my like four or five top picks period out of the new range Lastly again to perk him up We're going to go for the standard imperial fist bumblebee So lots of yellow and black The black being a very dark color to contrast against that bright, bright, bright yellow And that's just it. There's so much of that yellow We've got to wheel some of it back and take back control of the scheme The rest of it is just the small details So that is to say all the little metal and everything like that By the way, I laid down the black on the Aquila on the center first Because I am going to touch that with just some metal But I wanted it to be still quite dark steel sort of black and steel And so I just touched the highlights as though I was just quickly highlighting the middle With the ball red applied to the eyes And a slight touch of seraphim around the model in the shadows Just to warm him up a little bit Like I felt the shadows got a bit too muddy and cold And I wanted him to look a little bit warmer So just some slight seraphim sepia hidden in those shadow areas Again still sweeping the brush around With that he's all set to go And that means we've got our ninth Loyalist founding chapter all done all ready to rock And that's all the Legion There we go Nine original loyalist legions I hope you found this helpful It really was a lot of fun And a challenge to do this To sort of set the hard timer on myself And make sure that I did just stop at 20 minutes It really made me think about Where can I apply the most effort quickly to get the most value And I encourage you to try these own kind of speed painting challenges at home Work up your own speed muscles It can be a really informative experience So with that being said If you liked this give it a like Subscribe for additional hobby cheating in the future If you've got any questions Drop those down in the comments below I always look at every comment If you're interested in taking your painting to the next level There is a link down below for a Patreon That's focused on review and feedback And taking your next step in your own personal hobby journey It's also full of an awesome community of people And with a great Discord to support it As always, I thank you so much for watching this one And we'll see you next time