 Hello boys and girls, welcome to part 2 of the supercharger install, the Magnuson supercharger on a 19 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. In today's video, I'm gonna get to the lower intake, install a bunch of coolant hoses, relocate the horns, the two horns, relocate the outside ambient temperature sensor, mount the water pump, the wire harness for it, and a bunch of other kind of boring stuff which you need to get through to finish the install. So as always like, subscribe, comment and enjoy the video. Alright, gonna install the clamp on the new hose first. Now I should probably make sure how I position this new hose. Okay, so it's gonna go like this. So with the clip facing up this guy here, so if you do have to ever go back, and disconnect it, it's gonna be easier. Same goes for the clamp. So this hose is attached on the right side of the firewall. Alright, this is not easy. There we go. Okay, like that. Okay, they're saying to reattach this hose now, but I'm not gonna do that right now. I'm gonna leave it aside because I'm gonna be working in this area here. So start with the lovely pushpins that hold the injector harness. Gotta remove this cover for the harness to get to the fuel injectors. Is this on bolts or what? It's on push pins. Three push pins. Okay, now the connectors for the fuel injectors. I'm just gonna remove this. That's fuel. It's normal to spill, it's okay. Nothing you can do about it, just catch it. Now it's a bit easier to get to the last fuel injector. Okay, there's a push pin right there holding this harness to the lower intake. Oh man, there's another one. There's another one. A little farther. This one is not gonna be that easy. Can't even get underneath it. Okay, I'm gonna do it a bit differently. I'm gonna remove the intake. I hope it's just the one. Okay, let's start removing the eight mil intake bolts. Starting on the outside. So it looks like it should come up with the fuel injectors, the fuel rails. Let's see what happens. Yeah, that push pin is gonna be a problem. Deep drill this. You saw that, right? This is why you tape up your intake. Oh no, there's two push pins. Two more. These two. One, the gray one. And there's thicker harness on the bottom. How the hell. All right, god damn it. That's one tough zip tie, I gotta say. Something underneath. That's attached to the intake. Okay, not anymore. Why would they do that? I'm gonna set this here. Okay, so we're gonna have to zip tie these our own way here. I'm just gonna get rid of this or maybe just zip tie it to this harness here and zip tie these together. That should be fine. All right, next step, clean these ports up on the heads. Just go outside as you wipe. Wipe towards the outside. Remember the PCV tube hose removed from the passenger side valve cover. Remove one fitting. Cut it open. Remove it and attach it with the new clamp they provided. The middle, the middle sized one. There's two. Attach it to the hose like this. It's gonna go underneath the heater hose. Something like this and this is gonna connect to the supercharger. Make sure it clicks in. Now we're gonna take the transmission breather hose and clip it from this other PCV tube and attach it. There's probably too many attachments, but if you don't have to remove them then don't. It matters well just running this way like that. I don't know why they want it. Underneath the harness I'm gonna play around with that later, see how everything else is gonna work out and attach it to this hose here. All right, take the VMV, the vapor management valve. This guy here. The two smallest clamps. That old line for that valve that you took out many many steps ago. We're gonna remove both of these fittings by cutting the plastic hose open. Watch your fingers. Install both clamps and the hose. The 45 degree angled connector will go to the VMV. Make sure you lock it in. This needs to route this way. I'm gonna go with this one for now and the connection is it's gonna go underneath the heater hose. And it's right there. I hope you can see this. Okay, again make sure it clicks in. Pull on it lightly. Make sure it's in there. Okay, it's in there. I'm gonna cut this off. All right, next is the air pump. I'm gonna install this fuse here. The 15 amp that's provided. And we're gonna go to the driver's side inner fender. Okay, this guy forgot about the rubber sleeve. So slide it on like that. And this will go in here. I'm gonna use some PB on this. After trying a few locations I did, as you can see from the picture, I've turned the pump a little bit clockwise. Now they're telling me to remove these two pushpins. These two guys were on the driver's side. Okay, you can see this is the brake booster here. Install two J-clips into existing holes in inner fender sheet metal. Remove the two wire retainers. Okay, so obviously this and then which two holes. So I figured, you know, I can't really tell from the picture how the pump is located but I had to do it differently than what they're telling me. Just remember that the bracket needs to go, you know, this kind of rubber boot and the pump will hook. Everything will go from the top so it doesn't fall. So that's how it's gotta be. No really other way around it. And I'm gonna mount it right here like that. I still have the inner fender to install. I don't know how that's gonna work out. Hopefully it will clear it. I'm gonna have to move the pump somewhere else. I was thinking maybe over here there's a spot but then this hose will kind of have a sharp turn to make. I can figure that out later but for now it's gonna be right here. Wiring the air pump. Make a small notch in the corner of the fuse box. Okay, pull the yellow 20m fuse. Take the fuse spike and slide it on the fuse like so. It is kind of tight but it's doable. Okay, I'm gonna install the fuse. Either way doesn't matter. Whichever way it fits. Okay, it's hitting this plastic here. Just use the force. Okay, just gonna route it. Give it some length. Actually this needs to install here so use that length. In the notch we go and this should be good. I'm gonna use a 10mm nut and reinstall the fuse cover. Should have run it underneath this short harness here. Whatever this may be. That's what I'm gonna do right now. Now the fuse cover. Okay, this ground wire needs to go back. I may need some slack here. Okay, time to remove the fuse cover. I should have made it a bit longer. This ground wire. Make it a bit longer. Majensen. I'm gonna reuse this 10mm here to ground it. You should make this step first. This stuff here, grounding and mounting the relay or tucking it in, whatever. I'm actually gonna go this way. So the fuse isn't there. Now for the last time the fuse cover can go back on. You can mount this. I'm gonna zip tie it later to this little bracket here. There. I'm gonna route the harness to the air pump somewhere. Maybe on the top. Probably be safest. Okay, I'm gonna zip tie it there. Zip tie it to here. Zip tie it to one of these hoses down there. And fix it up here somehow. Zip tie it to the firewall here. Just make sure you zip tie the, you know what, out of it. Map sensor extension wire harness. AIT sensor extension harness. It's actually slightly different. The tab here is to the left a bit. This one is in the middle. So you know what to do in cases like this. Use the force. Okay. Do it aside. Next up is relocating the horns and the outside temperature sensor. Oh, which is here. This guy here. Now route everything basically straight through towards the windshield washer fluid container here. Okay, these horns, they're different. They're opposite of each other. Let's take this guy for first. Now they're saying, see the bolt, the long ones that I have in here, that's where the PCM mounts on. But then these lower ones, you can drill out and mount the horns. But there's a harness to the left. I mean this, with this one, this would work. It's kind of a tight fit. But then this one works very nicely on this side. It would point straight down and that's what you want. And the plug is clear. This should be okay like this. It is a tight fit, but at least they point down on both sides. So let's find the slightly bigger drill bit. This will work. Who's it, this one? Oh, not so easy on this side. The coolant hose is in the way. I'm going to make this all nice and pretty later on when I'm done with most of the stuff, then I'll know how to do it. Now that the horns are in relocated and the temperature sensor is relocated as well, we're going to skip through some of these steps, mainly because I don't have the PCM yet. And these two lines are for your automatic transmission cooling lines, which this is a manual. So some of these pictures look a bit different. Anyways, first I'm going to remove this pushpin and get rid of it. Then I'm going to cut that little plastic end where that pushpin was located. There we go. Now you're going to take the D marked hose with the longer end and push it through here. The inner cooler is going to end up right here and one connection is here. The other one is down here and I'm just going to leave it lying just along there on the left side of the engine. I don't know, I may reroute it later, but this is where it should come through and it's going to use this clamp. I'm going to put it in with the screw on the right side. Okay, leave it like that. I'm going to go and take your C marked hose and this one. See the PCM should be here. Now remember you can do this however you want. You don't really have to follow directions. Some stuff is different. If you have an older model or a newer model, whatever. No Jeep is the same. So this will go to the air pump like so here and I'm going to run it. See in front, well from where I'm standing in front of the ABS brake lines here simply so it doesn't hit the steering shaft right there and there is a bolt down there. Okay, so maybe on the upper side of the here. Yeah, there we go. Okay, that's better. So this is going to be here. All right, I'm going to install this hose and I'll show you the result. Okay, I routed the hoses somewhat. This one is the C hose. This is the C hose. This is the outlet of the pump. This is the inlet and the inlet hose. This is it. You need to take these two 10 mil nuts, pull this up and away, run the hose behind it along the way here and it's going to end up somewhere here. Now at this point I can install this heater hose. Now this was just the C hose. It's a weird, weird hose. It's too long. Okay, and not only it's too long because the connection is right here. I may end up trimming it and just going like this and it's not going to crease because it's already on a 90 degree turn here. So something like that. But what I don't like, it's very close to the steering bar here. You know what I mean? If I were to push this back, not cut it and push this back, it would definitely be hitting this here. Yeah, and yeah, you want to stay away from this area. It looks like you could run it right underneath it but that's a no-no to me. So this is where it's going to stay right there. I hope you can see it. Okay, remember this end of the intercooler was damaged. I did fix it a bit. I squeezed it out. It was a dent on this side and then I put a socket, a 9mm 1.5 inch socket. It was, it's rounded and I hammered it in and made it straight. So it's turned out okay. Now I'm only going to install this temporarily. Okay, you see this is, that's what I'm talking about right here. This is not going to work obviously. But it should be okay like that. Okay, so but I'm going to leave it for now. So this will be installed later.