 Hi, you guys coming to you from the floor of my sewing room because I am working through a new to me, but been around for a minute, pants fitting method. This was brought to me by Jay Stern, Jennifer Stern. She has a YouTube channel here on YouTube. She's a channel here on YouTube. She sells her own patterns and she is a fitting fiend. She does Fit Tip Tuesday and really walks you through all of the kind of things that you need to know about fitting your garments. And just like the rest of us, she was always a little bit like when it came to pants fitting was always a little bit like this feels more complicated than it needs to be. But you know, we're powering through, we're going to do all the methods that we've learned and everything else until she came across the top down center out method. So she has been trained in how to teach this obviously how to do it. And she passed her knowledge down to me. And now I am trying it out for the very first time. The concept of this top down center out is you fit your waistband first. So you take your patterns waistband, you make it in a non stretch fabric, interface the crap out of it, finish the top edge, and then just like leave your bottom edge raw. Then you make just one side of your pants and you add I think I added four inches to the top portion of my pants. Then you take the muslin after you've sewn the pant leg, and you bring it up to the waistband, and you balance out that pant leg to the waistband while everything is on your body. So it's not trying to take a 2D pattern and make all these 2D alterations to it. You're literally using your own body, gravity, three dimensional things, and you are balancing it to yourself. And then once you get all the drag lines removed from the from balancing out the top portion, then you smooth everything out and balance like your side seam and make sure that that is straight. That's the center out portion. Excuse me. That's the center out portion. So in theory, this makes a lot of common sense right using your own body. It's kind of why I have a ditto form, but using your own body to fit pants and not doing any fitting at all until you can see how that pant pattern is going to fit your body. Now, Jen took the whole concept of top down center out a step further and developed like this Velcro system to where you literally like just slap the pants onto these little Velcro portions. So you don't have to worry about pins. You don't have to worry about things coming out. You can literally put them on, walk around, sit down, test, and you can see I'm literally sitting here. There's not a single pin in my waistband or on these pants. It's all Velcro like Velcro. So I'm going to show you my first go at this using Vogue 9032. Now this method is really intended for like a wide leg or like a trouser style pants, something loose fitting, a jegging, a skinny jean, even tight fitting pencil pants. This isn't necessarily, I mean, it'll get you close to where you need, but you will still need to do fit adjustment. But for a trouser for like a wide leg pant for something like this, this method is supposed to help you fit your pants in like 10 or 15 minutes. So I'm going to show you exactly how I got to where I am with mine and show you top down center out how everything kind of gets balanced on your body. And then you apply those changes to your pattern pieces. And I'll show I'll walk you through the rest of the process from here. Okay. So you make your waistband. This is what mine looks like. Right. You make the whole thing. This is a curved waistband because it sits one inch below my natural waist. So it has to have a little bit of curve to it. And then I fit this waistband. And when I did that, I actually had to add a little bit more curve to it. You can see that up here, I'm taking out less than I am at the bottom making the top part of this smaller than this part makes total sense common sense to my body finish the top edge. And then along the bottom edge, you're going to add all of your velcro here. And then you add a big strip to the center back and a big strip to the center front. Okay. Then you excuse the boy shorts here, but then you put your waistband on. Okay. Like a belt, bring it around to the front and velcro it where it's comfortable. Now in theory, this would sit at the five eighths mark up here like so. Can you guys see that? But when I do that, it's a little bit too big. So I know I'm going to have to take in the waistband a little bit more, not too much. I still want to be able to sit down. So you put your waistband on and then you sew your pants or not necessarily in this order, but you sew your pants. You just cut out one leg. Just as the pattern is, according to your size, use the fast fit workbook, gray out if you normally do all of that kind of stuff. I ended up making a straight size based on my weight based on my hip because my hip is my largest part of my body. And then I figured I was going to adjust the waist accordingly. So when I did that, you sew your inseam. You sew a stay stitch to your crotch curve. You add velcro to the upper part of your front and back centers. And you sew your side seam at a regular stitch up to the crotch line and then from there, leave it open. Okay. Then when you put this on, okay, slip into it like so. And your first rule, the first, we're doing top down first. Okay. So you take your center front and you place that at center front and the velcro is going to hold it on there nicely. You take your center back and you place that at center back. Okay. Get that in place. Now, this is how, this is where the magic happens. Can you see how there's all of these like drag lines? All we do is pick up the pant and adjust it till those go away. So I'm kind of like, center back is staying still. I'm not moving the center back at all right now. And I'm just moving the front half of the pant until all of those drag lines go away. And my hem is parallel to the floor. See if it were like that, that would be no good. So it's got to be parallel to the floor and we're just pulling up and then pushing down all of our velcro. We've got one here and one here. Okay. Then you turn around, you need like a two, not a two way, but like a mirror where you can see your back. Ignore my side seams for now. And you do the same thing. So you pick up your back and you're just moving this until all of the drag lines go away in this flat. So everything is nice and flat. There are no drag lines. It feels really comfortable, right? You're moving around. If you get a large like gap between your body and the crotch curve for a drapey pant, that's okay. You want a little bit of space there. But if you have a lot, like if it's hanging way, way down, you just take this, draw a parallel line parallel to the floor perpendicular to the grain line, and you would just pick all of this up until it met your body and you would pull it out horizontally. So when I had my side seams matching, when I did that and they were matching and I had them at the seam allowance for the pant, you can see that my front is good. This is where my front would end, but my back had all of this extra. Okay. And again, that makes perfect sense for my body. So you just literally open this up like a little envelope, smooth this out, bring these two things together and pin all the way down and that becomes your new side seam. You can check it to make sure that it's straight going down. You can see the line that I drew and it's going to look funky on your pattern pieces. But you know on your body on the 3D figure that this is what actually looks straight. It is like crazy how much simpler this makes everything. I don't know. It almost seems like too easy. But let me apply all of these changes to my pattern pieces and then I will sew like a full pant muslin, not just one leg, but a full pant muslin because new things can arrive. Your left and right bodies are different from each other. And then we will analyze that. And then from that point I should be able to cut my fashion fabric and make a pair of trousers with literally like 10 minutes of fitting. All right, you guys. So you can see here I transferred all of my changes to my pattern pieces and where there are diagonal lines, that is all of the pattern that I am going to be removing. So that is the front side seam. Then I went ahead and made all the adjustments to the pocket pieces. Again, all the diagonal lines are everything that's being removed. And then this is the back piece where you can see what has been removed from there. So it was really easy to make these adjustments, just transferring them from the fabric to the actual pattern pieces. All right. And you can see how my excuse my jumping dog, but how my finished muslin turned out. When I pull the center front together, you can see the side seam is perfectly perpendicular to the floor. That's what the back looks like. And the other side seam and then I'll turn around to the front again. Honestly, you guys, this could not have been easier. So head over to the link in my description box. It is for a playlist that Jennifer has put together explaining all about the top down center out method, explaining how to make your waistband and where to put the velcro and all the steps you need to do to prepare your pattern for this process. And then she will walk you through everything that I talked about today, but in a much more slowed down process. She has all the information you need and all that information is that the link in my description box. I cannot wait to try this method on many different types of pants. The next one I'm going to do is a high-waisted straight waistband. So stay tuned for that. But also look out for the pants that I'm about to make from this muslin. I could not be more excited. 10 minutes of fitting and that's the result I got. Simply amazing. That's going to do it for me today though. Thank you all so much for watching. I will see you very soon. Bye.