 Okay, I'm Dennis Delaney, extension specialist of soil beans, agnestation cropping systems, and it's going to talk a little bit about the importance of soil temperatures for soil bean planting. It's important to note that soil beans have a pretty wide genetic base to them, originally they were wild, pro-vine plants from a pretty large area of Asia, from north to south. So a wide variation of adaptation to soil beans will grow them all the way from south Florida on up well into Canada, using different material groups of soil beans. Their temperature sensitive, the optimum temperature for soil beans is about 55 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. We'd say DD 65 as far as temperatures that will have it to grow, but most soil beans can still germinate down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, just very, very slowly. It can take two to three weeks for them to emerge, versus 45 days, way too late on the season when temperatures are a lot more ideal. Some cold region varieties do tolerate cooler temperatures, but normally the ones we have down south will already take it much below 50 degrees. And of course, like most crops, we want to get them out of the ground growing just as quickly as we can to avoid some of the other problems that pop up. So being emergence, we would call that the BE stage, or when water absorption from the soil is about 50% of the seed weight, the codledens will expand, start to unfold and arch up towards the surface, fit around the right radical or will become the root, pushes down. Normally, it takes five to 10 days to emerge, again, that's really soil temperature dependent, with cool soil temperatures and a good seed fungicide that helps protect the seed. I have seen emergence take up to three weeks to come out of the ground. So it's planted real early in the season, such as late March or early April. But in that time, they can encounter a whole lot of hazards, soil crusting, packing rain, soil insects, diseases. Again, they're just sitting there, barely growing, susceptible to a lot of problems. In that first stage, we call it inhibition, where it starts taking up that soil moisture. The membranes of the sodium seed actually chemically change to allow water uptake. Usually that's within the first 24 hours after that plant belongs to sufficient soil moisture there. As they start changing from the seed phase to germinating and the codledens starting to move out, those membranes become real leaky to water and nutrients that can go back and forth. Again, they're not set, they're processed changing. And especially with cold temperatures, 40 to 50 degrees, that can happen quite a bit. They just don't have time to get set to the new stage, to the germination stage. Membranes can be permanently damaged while diseases start to take advantage of these nutrients that are leaking out. I know with some of the seed, I've heard particularly called the cotton, the same problem when it's planted in cold temperatures, almost like brain damage to the seedling, where it just never does quite recover from it. It's a permanent slowdown. The sodium plant is trying to make sure it survives rather than necessarily grow like it should. If this chilling happens after 24 hours, membranes are a lot less affected because they're in their new phase or locked into the new arrangement. But seedling growth will still slow down quite a bit. But again, the first 24 hours are real critical to germination. If these low soil temperatures continue, that slow growth allows pathogens to keep attacking the food reserves that are in cotyledon before photosynthesis begins. So that's going to stun the plants. Also, if you have to have a freezing temperatures after planting, if you remember the growing point, sweating is above ground. So if that bud is frozen, cotyledons are frozen, it can kill the entire plant and you don't need to stand. So recommendations are awake until soil temperatures are at least 55 degrees of two inches in the morning. In the morning, it's going to be your minimum temperature to help wrap the germination. Very little growth advantage from what I've gained by planting before then. It may grow very slightly with pathogens and insects and so on. I'm going to have a lot of chance to go ahead and attack it. Also, don't plant right before cold front or if a cold rain is forecast in the next 24 hours. And that first 24 hours is a real critical period. And also, if you are planting earlier or in a cool soil in close to that 55 degrees Fahrenheit, including no-tale, we recommend treating seed with a good fungicide package in order to slow down those pathogens and just give the seed a chance to get it out of the ground and start making its own food through photosynthesis. With that, thank you for your time.