 Hey, what's up guys, it's Matt Beck from freesaloneducation.com. I'm here with a haircut, one of my favorite things to do for you guys. I did an asymmetrical graduated bob, some of it's graduated, some of it's layered, we had a lot of fun. I did a lot of different techniques in this haircut, so I think you're going to get a lot out of it. This may not be what your guests are begging you for, but you can use every technique within this step-by-step to use this haircut in some form on your guests if they're looking for a graduation. This haircut is great for curly hair as well. I know a lot of you guys asked that question. I don't have curly hair mannequins, so you're going to have to deal with the straight hair, plus you can see the lines really well in the straight hair. But again, love this haircut, it's got a nice soft, oops, wrong way, subtle bang in there. Nice disconnection, it's nice and light, we go through and we layer the side and then also you can see how it starts off with a nice line in the back and then drops off on this side and then on the opposite side we get a really nice round graduation here. Really the technique is cool, I think you guys are going to enjoy it. So if you guys have any questions, make sure you ask them in the comments below. I will be checking those and hit the like button, hit the share button, share it with all of your hairdresser friends so that we can spread the word, but check out freesaloneducation.com and let's get started. Alright guys, so we're going to start off the haircut by parting on the right side of the mannequin head. So if your guest had a different side parting you would just start there. So if they're on the left side, start on the left side, if they're in the center, start in the center. Obviously with an asymmetrical haircut we're probably not starting in the center. You'll notice as I went down, I didn't go down the center back, I stayed to the right. So basically directly from that parting I went straight down the right side, leaving only about an inch and a half of hair to the right side of the parting and then the rest of the head of hair is completely on the left. Then I took a section a little bit above the occipital bone, a diagonal forward section and just split the front and the back up that way. You can see that section above the occipital bone a little bit better on this side and you can see the difference in the density, how much hair I took on the right side compared to the left side. So that's pretty much the sectioning, really simple. You'll see here there's a couple things I did in this haircut where I changed my mind. So it started off with the hair a little bit shorter, decided to go right along the neck, cut a straight horizontal square line in the back because I really wanted a solid shape in the back and I wanted a structure that would help hold up. So more of a horizontal sectioning is going to build a strong base. So I start off the haircut with a slight elevation cutting horizontal and just really focusing on the shape of the haircut and I think also for me when you start a graduation on the bottom, when you work vertically, it's a lot harder to get your hand comfortable. So I think working horizontally until you're above that occipital bone just works really well. So definitely give that a shot if you guys haven't tried that when you're cutting a bob yet. Now just working with about an inch of new hair and now I'm going to start vertical. So you can see how comfortable and how easy my hand fits now underneath the head. And that's really the benefit of cutting horizontal at the beginning is just being comfortable. And I talk about this a lot but within hair cutting the best way to be successful in hair cutting is to be comfortable. That's going to keep you consistent and keep your haircuts good. So now we sped it up a little bit. Everything is coming directly back at this point slightly over directed to the previous section. So you can see a nice build-up of weight gets a little bit longer towards the corner. That's the goal is to start the asymmetric feel but I think a lot of people right away jump to trying to over direct too much. And when you over direct too much what's going to happen is you're going to build up way too much weight um too quick and then you're you're not going to love the feel of the haircut. Again over directing just to the previous section so not all the way back and then that last piece right there it's just straight back over direction that gives us a little kick of weight. You can see again how it's starting to get a little bit longer. The benefit of starting the parting over to the right hand side and I think that that's the key part of this haircut is when you start it that far over and you work over directing to the previous section you get a much heavier weight line drawn from that parting because it has more time to build up. If you were if you think about like waves in the ocean if you're if the wave starts right at the shore it's not going to be it's going to be really tiny. If it starts way back in the ocean it's going to build up momentum and grow and become a bigger wave. I'm assuming I actually have no idea how waves are built but it's just it's the weight is building up so you have a lot more time to build up your weight line and I think that that's the benefit of starting further over in the haircut. Now you can see that the very top of that section is coming out about zero degrees. I'm saying zero degrees because that top piece of hair if you were to pull it straight out from the head would go straight up at 90 degrees so zero degrees would be straight back. Then the rest of the hair is coming out at about a 90 degree angle so it's very light. I built that structure at the bottom I wanted a lot of structure but now I want to soften the top. Too many bobs become way too heavy too quick because we keep at a really low elevation so just elevating it nice and high helps out with that especially because we are over directing and building up weight we want to have a higher elevation so that it doesn't get too heavy. Now with the opposite side there's not going to be it's just going to be over directed straight back. I'm going to connect the line but I'm going to connect it straight so we did build up where we had the other side kind of take a dive down with the weight and that's really going to help create our asymmetrical feel so this line will be straight across the other one dips down and you can see how little hair I left on that side you really don't need a lot of hair on the part side of the head and this is all being pulled straight back and cut square with the back of the head so my finger angle is parallel with the section and everything's being brought down to about a 45 degree angle and I'm taking horizontal sections you'll notice that I scoop up and I grab a little bit of the old hair but I don't grab all of it and that's because we're moving up the head we're building up that weight and the more hair I grab the more diffused my guideline becomes and then I start cutting a new guideline and then I get lost in my haircut so little by little grabbing that old hair and elevating it up all right that's just a good look you can see how the weight is shifting now I'm going to push away some of the front of the hair because what I want to do is I want to take a guideline from what I just cut and then work my round shape so really this this section is going to be cut a little bit different than the rest of the haircut because I want to just draw my baseline first so connecting it with the back of the head barely any elevation in this whatsoever the more elevation the more diffused that line will be and we want a really nice strong line keeping my finger angle at the angle that I want the haircut to be so I want it right in line with the nose I think that's going to look the best so that's what we did now we're going to shift back diagonal back section combing the hair down you can see through the section that's a key part of this as well because you don't want to lose your guide so now I'm going to hold everything out slight elevation on this hair uh on this part of the haircut because I do want to have a little bit of a beveled edge but I don't want too much elevation because I don't want to diffuse the line too much so what I mean by diffusing the line is you know that when you elevate hair really high it gets a really shattered line so I want to keep this below 45 degrees to start build a solid line so that I have that structure that you see in the end result of the haircut and then um and then start to elevate it a little bit more as I work up the head so you can see that angle that angle is you know pretty much some of it's out of zero some of it's out of 45 I know it's kind of confusing for some people but you really got to look at the shape of the head and where 90 degrees would be that's all I do so um I know some of you guys have have written and are confused on the the degrees but you have to look at um just where 90 degrees comes out and then base your elevation off of that what I'm doing in this part of the haircut is everything is coming out I'm cutting it at between zero and 45 degrees keeping that weight line built up and then in the back of the head which we'll shift to in a second I'm then over directing it straight back and creating more of a square feel so all of this is coming out I'm following the round of the head and then in the very back when I round that corner in the back that's when I over direct straight back just because I want to keep a little bit of weight sitting which you could see sitting right behind the ear that's the key I didn't want to completely round off this shape I wanted to have a little bit of a kind of a strong build up right in the back of the head because I think it gives it a nice um a nice shape to the bob uh haircut so you could see it's got a nice little build up and I just love I love cutting round graduation it's one of my you know favorite things um because I honestly believe that it's probably one of the most difficult things to cut um in my opinion to stay consistent with it so this part is just fun it's easy we're going to do some point cutting everything's being elevated and over directed straight back so uh stationary guide over directing the hair I took a guide from from the back of the head where I'd cut my graduation and we based it off of that and just taking a full on um vertical section all the way down the head and there you go over directing all the way back so I wanted to show you guys this part of it just to show you show you what it would look like curly because it's a great curly haircut as well I think it looks great because you're still leaving some length on the side so if they have curl you could see that natural wave and then just the asymmetrical feel that comes around the head just looks really great so um if you had a guess that were her hair curly this is a perfect um cut for that now we're going to throw some brocato actives and mousse in there um this is one of my favorite mousses ever because it's just has such a good um thickness to the mousse it doesn't feel watery at all and I feel like it stays in the hair really well and gives me a nice polish so we'll get those products in the hair brush them through and blow dry really fast so I think I'm going to put together another video you guys can let me know in the comments below if you'd like a video on the step by step of the blow dry um but I wasn't sure if you would love that so I decided to take it out we'll just speed it up through here um so you can see the shape kind of appear which I think is pretty cool but if you guys want to see um the blow dry step by step I'll definitely put that video together as well um going through with a brocato vibra straight iron smoothing it out and when you're smoothing the hair just a quick tip is just you really just want to polish the ends and bevel the edges now I'm going to go through detailing I cut the entire haircut with my z2 scissor um because she's got a little bit thicker density hair I wanted a scissor that had a lot of power um this is the db20 I go in with this one because it it's my shorter scissor it's a 5.7 inch and it's going to allow me to have a little more strength in the tip um and a little more control and it's a razor sharp so um when I want to go in to define those edges I could do that with the db20 uh really well and it gets into those tight spots so just going through little by little cutting that line I think a lot of people want to go in with their big scissor right away and just cut it but you have to do it little by little and um and that's going to help define and draw your line in so just keep working it comb it again watch where the hair falls then go in use the tip of your scissor cut your line again and just keep going back and forth until that line falls exactly the way you want it now in the back I'm going to elevate the hair vertically um pretty much like I did in the wet cut but I would just want to go through make sure that I still over direct the hair uh the way that it should be but I'm just lightening it up with some point cutting through the back now connecting the back to the long side so remember all we did was elevated the hair so we didn't draw a line in the bottom so I'm I'm creating that line now um again just combing the hair down working with the tip of the scissor to draw the line there we go and to connect the bang so I took a piece from the round graduation that we cut and I'm connecting that taking diagonal forward sections through the fringe or bang area and uh over directing them elevating it to diffuse it a little bit and uh you can see that connection works really well now we can comb it over and that is pretty much the haircut I want to do one more thing what I'm going to do is take the top layer of the hair which usually stacks up the heaviest and I'm going to hold it in my hand and just elevate my hand and clean up that edge so when it falls it falls nice and soft and that's a really cool technique you can do it in the back of the hair the front of the hair whatever you feel like but it works really well and that's our end result I hope you guys love this haircut please share it with all of your hairdresser friends let me know in the comments below what you think and also if you would like to see any other haircuts or anything else I can do for you guys thank you so much for watching subscribe and we'll see you on the next video