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Uploaded on May 29, 2010
I think I was 15 in this, maybe 15 1/2, couldn't drive yet. I think it was spring. My dad is filming in 8mm from the jetty rocks in the fg. This wave is a left, so the ones going right are going right toward the rocks, just out of frame. No cords, big boards, no one out even though it's a Saturday when my dad is off work. Notice I am wearing a vest wetsuit, the first surfing wetsuits. Thought was that you had to be able to move your arms and legs in surfing, so you didn't want too much rubber. Last wave at the jetty, you will see that I am no longer wearing it, but the guy floating over the shoulder is wearing it. That's my younger brother, who paddled out and was cold, so I loaned it to him. Or maybe we shared it. Can't remember. In any case, I was already warmed up. The second segment, Right Break, is about 200 yards north of the jetty. Again, no one out. I actually surfed this first, warmed up, then moved over by the jetty rocks. Surfing in this is pretty conservative, because if you lost your boards, it might get dinged up in the rocks, or at the least, there was a fairly long cold water swim. http://www.leucadiasurfschool.comhttp://www.vintagesurfmovies.com