 Hello, friends! Today's short review is about basic of airbrushing and spraying large areas. I mostly paint my models with Tamiya acrylic colors. In this video, I am using olive color for illustrative purposes. However, if you think of diluting the paint with water, then quickly forget it. You will never achieve perfect result with water. Rather use original Tamiya X20A thinner, but you can use original ethanol too. I do not know the precise thinning ratio, because all the shades I require a different amount of thinner. And it depends on the size of airbrushing nozzle too. Now I add the magical ingredient, which is paint retarder agent. Just a few drops. I use Tamiya retarder to prolong paints drying time and to avoid forming paint dust on the model surface. And now let's go to work with airbrush. Most of classic airbrushes are double action. It means that by moving trigger forward and backward, you control the amount of paint and diameter of spraying circle. And by pressing and releasing the trigger, you regulate the pressure. Both actions must be properly combinated. Before you start spraying, it's good to check paint dilution on a piece of plastic plate. Which are the most common mistakes? If I pull the trigger forward myself, then there is a maximum amount of the paint in nozzle and the low pressure. The result is that the paint splatters. Another mistake. The quantity of paint is fine, but I have a big pressure over 2.5 bars, which blows the paint away. The result is that the paint spills to all directions. Now we have the correct pressure over 2 bars and the reasonable amount of paint, but it is too much diluted. I try to make a consistent layer. The result is that the paint spills to all directions and create waves. Now the absolute opposite. The paint is poured directly from the can without dilution. The result is that the first layer goes everything, but it creates an inconsistent coarse layer. This is how it looks in detail. Okay, I show you the basic mistakes, but the question is how we do it correctly. Do not try to coat the plane with just one layer. Usually I spray three or more very thin layers. The first layer should be sprayed only lightly and it should stay very transparent. Thus, you can create a base coat for the next layer. The next one will adhere to model surface much better and the paint will not spill away. The second layer already partially covers the grade plastic. The third layer should be already the final one, but it is still not fully opaque. Only the fourth finishing layer coats everything properly. Paint dries after 10 minutes, but if you use a hairdryer, you can apply another layer already after a few seconds. The coat of paint is perfectly smooth, not coarse. Only sometimes it is suitable to use a retarder. Some paints dry too fast and the droplets of the paint dry before reaching the model surface, which creates a coarse layer of paint. You don't need to throw the plastic plate away when the paint dries. Just use the technical alcohol and wash it with a piece of cloth. I often do the paint consistency check if it is well diluted. I smear a drop of the paint on the plastic plate and if it is transparent and looks like a watercolor, then it is okay. If it is opaque and adhere to plastic plate, then it is wrongly diluted and it is going to form paint splatters direct airbrushing. That is all for today. I hope this tutorial is going to help you improve your own airbrushing skills. Good luck and thanks for watching.