 Got this unhooked so we can do the test, and wipe some of that crud out. Trying to get some of this battery clamp here. You can see how nice and corroded it was. Well, it broke off, which is really wonderful. Right, another Generac with a carrier branded sticker on it that's not wanting to run. Somebody was out here, and was supposed to do something to it, and they said it wouldn't run. Supposedly don't have spark. So let's see what's going on with this thing. Number one thing that takes these out is the batteries. Yeah, look at all that corrosion and stuff there. That crap right there, that's going to cause poor starting capabilities. Let's see where we're at on our oil. So hard to tell. Looks to me like it's about where it needs to be at. He said something about it not sparking, so I went ahead and grabbed my spark tester. This thing actually measures the gap. You got to have so many thousands of volts to be able to jump a gap. I've tried the little spark when it blinks and stuff like that. I don't feel as though there is accurate. Now it's going to be really hard to see out here with the sun being as strong as it is. We'll go ahead and kick that onto there. Let's go ahead and kill the fuel that way when we're doing this that we're not jumping fuel in there. OK, at least they've got a stop over here. That's quite interesting. Oh, we siliconed it on there. That's pretty nice. That's some strong silicone. That's why I would do it. Hell, yeah. I mean, I might even use a wire tie, because those work really good too. Got it about the $12,000 mark. I think that's about where they said, I can't remember without looking it up. Let's take a peek and see if it got a mark. Ready? OK, so we have a spark there, so that was not. That one's working fine. Let's see if the other one. Got it to just barely stay on there. We'll see if we can block the sun here and see if we can get a spark before it knocks it off. Yeah, it didn't work so well. You're not going to catch that on camera. I'll tell you about it. So we felt the spark just fine and seen it too. Checking our water level. Water levels are important, especially on some of these generators. Like this one has a crappy battery charger on it. These old ones were a bad design. Everything about them was bad. They had independent battery charger, independent voltage regulator. It was their starter series, I feel, as though. I mean, they've been around forever. But in 2005, 2006, that's when this thing was, this design was pretty popular. Maybe 2009-ish, because this has got the servo on it, and it might even have choke. They started out very primitive. No choke, no servo, all spring controlled, and they didn't start for crap in the wintertime. And this got a little bit better when they added some of these other things to it. So if you're here watching because you want to try to avoid calling the Generac guy, I understand, but I'm not tech support. See that right there? That right there is not a good idea. You want to keep that bin up just a little bit, just enough that you got a gap, a little bit of a gap, just a little bit. That'll keep it from freezing in place. That guy's very little to do with what's going on probably today, possibly. But they did say it didn't start. And although the battery looks about halfway decent, that's not the issue there either. Let's see what's going on with the fuel system. It's pretty much, you've got to have fuel, spark, and pressure in here, and the thing should start and run. Go ahead and turn the fuel back on, get that battery put back together. I went ahead and grabbed my dedicated generator bag. We're going to check the battery specific gravity. This guy tells us whether or not it's charging properly. This is the most accurate way of doing it, because you can actually see what the electrolytes are doing. So we're looking pretty good there, 12.75. Go over to the next one, almost 1,300, which if you don't get a good level of water and you're equally across, it will be different. So like I said, it didn't go all the way up. Do it again. Boom, 1,300. So this battery looks like it's fully charged. Let's go ahead and do this one here. It's almost 1,300. We're just probably going to add some water to this, and we'll be able to move on, see it didn't go all the way up. Do it again. Do it one more time. Get it up there to that level where it should be at. And we're at 1,300, which is fully charged. That's good. And about 1,300 area if I had the water level all the way up. So you want to make sure you rinse your gauge out. You don't want that acid crap getting on anything either. So I always rinse that out after I get done. We'll go ahead and add some water, which I've got my little dober here. So get that up to the bottom of each one of those plastic things there. And I'm going to need to grab another one yet. I got the water levels up. I'm going to go ahead and clean this up just a touch. I also grabbed my digital tester there, and we'll check to see how the battery fares by digital testing. Got this unhooked so we can do the testing, wipe some of that crud out. Trying to get some of this battery clamp here. You can see how nice and corroded it was. Well, it broke off, which is really wonderful. So we got that off. We're going to have to put a new one of those on. I hate using those generic screw down ones, but that's about all I can get nowadays. Got the analyzer hooked on. This is a generic one. But basically, we're doing a quick test here at 540 at zero cold cranking. It's coming in good, coming in at 450. So it's 100 crankings below. It's 70%. Batter's got six mega ohms on it. It's saying good. It's obviously starting to show its age. We're going to go ahead and let it go for now. It's not our primary problem. We've got our fuel regulator back here in the back. We'll probably end up after check gas pressure once all is said and done. See if I got one of those clamps. I think I have one. Kind of annoying. I'm on to bigger and better things now. And I just don't care to do it. Everybody and their brother's doing it now. And so you would think that the electricians would take care of this, but they don't. That don't look very good. Geez. All I had is a red for positive. Looks like it'll fit just fine. I've got some spray paint. We'll go ahead and paint it black. Let's go ahead and get that thing shopped out of there. There's that. Well, we got it clamped down about as good as you're going to get it. I'm not going to spray it in advance because I don't want paint in between my terminal and the clamp. So I'm going to spray it once I've got it on there. So we'll get that on there and then we'll spray it. Got it in place. Got the red protector stuff on there. Then we got the other one painted, which don't look too bad. It's going to work. Nobody sees it in there. I like to make it look as good as possible. But at this point, I don't have anything else. I'm not going to make a special run just for a battery terminal. Let's go ahead and kick this thing on. See if the choke opens and closes like it's supposed to. Let's go ahead and put it in manual. They do have power. So we're just making sure that it works. I think we were out here for a PM on the air conditioner over there. And I don't know if this was included in it or not. But let's take a look. Now, if I stuck my two fingers in there and it sucked that fuel through nice and fast, it probably worked just fine. But we're going to go ahead and play the game. They always want to know what your gas pressure is. Let's go ahead and check that to see what we got. Look at that. 7 and 1 half inches makes me think this has been a problem in the past. That really wouldn't surprise me. And like I was saying, I don't make these videos for homeowners. I make this for some of the guys getting into the field or just have to surface these because they're an HVAC and can't find electrician. It knows how to work on them. We're tapping in after the pressure regulator there. You can see the gas solenoid is right there. If we, you can also go below that. And I'm pretty sure that is my incoming pressure. Now you get too high and it won't open. What we've got here is we have a medium pressure gas line. And with the, it looks like about one inch. They've got running over here. We should have plenty of capacity. And it should be able to keep right up. Let's see if we get that gas through the solenoid when we crank it over. We are at zero-ish. Let's go manual and see what happens. 7 and 1 half inches is pretty good. Should be firing. Should be firing. Got spark, got rotation. Is our spark plugs bad? Let's take a look at them and see what we got there. Maybe we have bad compression. That could be a possibility too. My favorite spark plug tool for these things is this old fashioned generic piece of turd here that used to come with the kits. That makes it the easiest. It just gets in tight spots and you can get it right out of there. Looks like it's been burning. Don't look too horribly bad. I want to make sure that we are on natural gas setting. And we are. There we go, finally. Looks like it had been burning. Looks like a little something goofy there on the end though. What's that? What is that? Crackage going on? Or is that just creosote? Looks like creosote of some sort. All right, let's go ahead and grab the compression gauge. I don't see a whole lot wrong with the spark plugs. Let's go ahead and turn the fuel back off. Don't really need fuel running through the system. Got our hose hooked on. Let's put our quick connect coupler on there on it and let's see what we get here. Let's go ahead and go. We'll probably be about 195 to 210. I forget exactly which one this is. This is usually I think 210. All right, looks like we got 195, almost 200. I can do it one more time. Yep, 195, almost 200. So we want to make sure that we're close to the same on the front as we are on the back. I'm not pulling out a book to double check all this crap. This is the way most people diagnose it. The factory expects you to get your book out and check every little thing. Oh, I don't have a spark. I got to go here. Let's check this. Just do this test. Let's write this test down. It's just not the way people freaking diagnose things. So anyhow, they expect you to do that too in the middle of the rainstorm or snowstorm or whatever. And it's just not practical. You can't get somebody trained on this in two days, three days. It's just not gonna happen. You better hope you have some background in engines. Otherwise, you're gonna have an issue. And I really have never been big into engines. To me, they're kind of boring. How is this more electronic stuff? And luckily, this is just a simple combustion engine, not much to it. We've got it there in the back. Let's go ahead and try it again. Okay, 185190. So we're off by a little bit. Not much, about five pounds, 10 pounds. So you gotta do the math to see what that's 10% or not. But what they would want you to do then is to adjust your valves. Like I said, if we put our fingers in there, the intake stroke of the engine will suck the fuel in even stronger and it'll start right up. And then it's gonna run every time after that. But that's why I wanted to go through these tests first to make sure we're getting fuel through. The solenoid is getting fuel. We are getting fuel past the solenoid and we are getting it down there to the bellows. Now, whether the bellows are opening or not, I don't believe that thing is actually tapped in after the fact, but those bellows could be sticking. That big pancake looking thing there, there's rubber diaphragm inside there. And it has a teeter tot. So the diaphragm gets in and out like this, but there's a plastic piece in there that literally goes back and forth. Then things, I had a lot of issues with them not wanting to open up. Well, this is holding pretty good. It ain't perfect, but it's dog on close. I would say we can do the math real quick. 5% added on to 190 comes out to 199.5. So I think 5% is pretty close to tolerance. We're gonna go ahead and go with that. Let's go ahead and put this back together, put the spark plugs in there. And let's go ahead and do the two finger bang to the carburetor here and see if it starts up. I did do a quick spark plug gap check. We're at 35,000 and 37, 37, 38,000 area on the other one. I can't remember if it's 0.35 or 0.4 on this one, but we're gonna be close enough. I'd have to pull the manual out to get to it. Once again, it's been running all this time. Not too horribly concerned about a couple of thousands there. Let's go ahead and get those in like I said, and let's get it running. And another thing you gotta remember too, this being a carrier quote unquote, they screw the numbers up so it doesn't match my Generator, Generac book. You know, all this CAC, Brian Day and Power, all that's bull crap. None of that is true. It's all Generac. Even says Generac right there on the freaking motor. All you can do is kind of compare it to the different motors. The only thing they've done is usually keep the motor about the same far as the CCs. So this is 992 CC. That's about the only way you're gonna cross it because I'm not gonna find the exact model number for this thing in my Generac book. Now, like I said, we're gonna kick this thing on. Everything I'm doing here can be possibly dangerous. So like I said, this is for entertainment purposes only. I don't do this for homeowners and things like that. Obviously they're gonna watch it, but that's the reason why I don't give any technical support on it. It's just kind of give the guys that don't get money, don't get much hands on, doesn't get sent to the school, get sent on on these things to work on them. You know, it really isn't fair to them. But unfortunately, you know, it's things like this that hopefully can help them out a little bit. So I'm gonna go ahead and hit manual here. We're gonna give it to two finger bang and see what happens. Now we'll see whether it tooks out and fails off on a bouldy tissue or not. We'll see how, now that it's running, let's see if it'll run now. You know, you've loosened up that diaphragm a bit. That's the problem you run into with these is now it's gonna start every time. That's the reason why I checked my fuel pressure and stuff beforehand. So yeah, it's getting through the fuel regulator, but I do not believe it's getting past the bellows there. So I'd have to show you a diagram inside the book to kind of explain it. You can see how well this chassis is hanging in there. It's all rusting out. This is the reason why they went to aluminum now. Let's go ahead and pull this top. It's all metric. So the HVAC guys are so used to standard, you're not gonna have to pick up a metric set. So let's go ahead and get that apart and let's check the voltages and see where we're at. I'm gonna recommend we replace the fuel regulator deal. And even though it's gonna start and run just fine for them. This one here has no dates or anything like that to remind them when it failed in history. So there's no history whatsoever. I'm gonna go ahead and take my fuel gauge off here too. Okay, so we got everything picked up out of the way for the most part. This is where I like my cobalt ones. I've got a seven millimeter here. It's one of those universal ones that far as I can do square and all that stuff. It seems to really get into the 10 millimeter one here. I use the universal socket there, universal swivel. That way it gets in there. Let's go ahead and put these down here so we don't lose them. Take this cover off. There is live voltage in here, 230 volts. Once again, don't fricking do this crap. If you ain't got a clue what you're doing and then whine that you got fricking electrocuted or whatever. You've got your input voltage coming in here, in one and two, that's where it senses voltage at. You have a transfer coil there, terminals 23 and 194. That's 12 volts DC going to the transfer switch to make it kick over. You've got your breaker here. This is protecting the voltage going to the house. You've got your dual tap transformer here. This is for the battery charge circuit. It takes the 230 volts from the house and turns it into 18 volts area for the voltage, for the battery charger there. And when generator is running it uses the other windings for the battery charger. And then they use a relay to switch in between that, which they got rid of all that crap because they found out that was kind of dumb. Same thing with the voltage regulator. This thing's known for failing like crazy. If you got like super high voltage, 330 volts coming out, chances are that thing's fried. Here's your battery charge circuit. So anyhow, what we're going to do now is we're going to test the voltage in frequency to see where we're at. Like I was saying, I grabbed my cheaper 117 Fluke meter. It's good enough for generators. Nothing real complex on wave forms or anything like that. We can check our DC voltage here. Let's go ahead and see what our battery's coming in at for charging state. We'll go and go across here to there. See what we got. 13.6, so as you can see, it's a little aggressive. And let's go ahead and go to regular AC voltage and see what we got on that. 140, 10, frequency. The only thing left to do now is to test the transfer switch to make sure it's actually going to transfer over. It doesn't do them a whole lot of good to have a generator running if it doesn't transfer over. And unfortunately, that's one of the most important tests at the end there you need to be doing. Let's do a rundown here. We've already taken care of the battery so we know the battery's going to start. We made sure the water levels are correct. We made sure that a specific gravity per cell is the same so we don't have one cell failing over the other. We got good connectivity on our battery terminals there and we got those treated. We've checked our spark plugs and made sure that the gaps are correct. Prior to that, we checked our compression to make sure our compression was correct. And then we checked our battery charge circuit and made sure that we got the battery voltage coming into it, which is in the range that it normally runs at. And then we also tested the battery under electronic tester and it showed that it was okay. We've made sure that our gas pressure was right. So just like anything, you got to have spark. You got to have fuel, got to have compression. You got to, you know, just take your basics there. Then, you know, there's other safety things in the circuit that can go wrong. You got oil pressure safety switch here that can go out. You got temperature switch down here on bottom. Some of these are normally closed. Some of these are normally open circuits. You got your servo here. I haven't had too many of those fail. I've had idiots leave the cap off and lose the oil all over the place. That can happen. Those are some of my main things along with a voltage regulator there fail. And then that fuel solenoid down there, like I was showing you earlier, that has a tendency to stick and that's exactly what happened here from what I'm seeing. As you can see, it is starting every time. And the only thing we did was gave it the two finger plunge and it came right on and ran. And now that it's loosened up, it's working just fine. The voltage is just coming out correctly. Like I said, the only thing we need to do now is do a test to see if it will transfer over. What we can do, we can unplug and one into one of them here, which like I said, it's 230 volts. You're taking a chance of blowing a fuse. Those are only rated at about five amps. And when it does that, it's going to send 12 volts DC, which it usually switches the negative. It's always 12 volts on the one terminal. So if you came in here right now with your meter on DC voltage and you come in to, I think one, well, either way, it's going to come through and out. So 23 to ground, nothing. Now, if you go to chassis ground, which is going to be the same as battery ground, you got nothing. Let's go over here to 194. Maybe because I'm not in auto mode. I'm not in auto mode. So let's go to auto mode. We have a green light solid, which means that it's programmed for some specific date. Let's go back here to 23 and chassis ground. There we go. Now we're at 13.68 there on that one. And we come over here to this one here and do the same thing, 13.68. So what it's doing is it's looping through the coil of the relay inside that it uses to transfer it over. I have my leads backwards here. So if we put the positive on the 194 or in to chassis ground, we've got the 13.69. If we go to neutral, probably won't get as much. Let's go there to it. That's still there. So they must be commonly bonded together of some sorts. So anyhow, yeah, so we've got it there. Now, if you check between the two of them, you won't have anything. So we go between those two and we have zero. When we trip this thing out, it should say 13 or so volts and that's gonna power the transfer switch and you're gonna see the motor bog down. Now what we can do is we can literally leave it in auto position. We can unplug the plug in here. Sometimes this is easier. We got a 516 screw holding that plate on and there's a Molex plug. And if we unplug the Molex plug, that's gonna kill the 230 volts, 240 volts coming into the generator. And then it's gonna start up and it's gonna transfer the DC voltage to the circuit inside if it was connected. But since it's not connected to it, it's not gonna do crap. So let's go ahead and put it on AC. Let's check our incoming in one and two. And obviously it must be right because we don't have blinking light. So there's 246.5 give or take a few thousand volts. We are good to go there. Kind of find this humorous. I get down here and I see my writing. It says wire nuts. Somebody was an aggressive fool and snapped off. Oh, that's nice. Bees, nests and everything else. They snapped off the terminals up there when they were installing it. And then they, ooh, there's some live ones in there. Look at him. Yeah, he's not moving around real fast, but he's in there. See him right there? He's sleeping a little bit. It's not that freaking cold out. Anyhow, our plug that I wanted originally is up there at the top. Let's see if I can get that out of there without him coming out and kissing me. Get this out of there. Okay, there's our terminal. Which that's all jimmy-janged, him-hoggled, flambasted, whatever you wanna call it, together. That's the plug there. He's flying around. That's nice. Let's go ahead and pull this apart. It's gonna start after about 10 seconds and then it's gonna send out 12 volts DC. When I put it back together, when I'm done, it should transfer over and it's gonna wait about 10 to 20 seconds, 30 seconds. And then it's gonna start cooling down and it'll undo the 12 volts. So in reality, I'm gonna get it to switch without having to kill power in the house. Finally got it apart. There we go. She should start up here in a second. Should see blinking light over here. Yep, see the blinking green light. Just started up. Generator should reach Friday's voltage now. Obviously, we checked that earlier. 247, great. Go down here to 194. If I plug this together, it's gonna allow, but it's also going to start counting down that it's got power. Just to put the amplifier on there and see but chances are it's already switched off. Yeah, it didn't do anything. We can undo it again here. That way it kind of switches over. Generic way of doing it, probably not the preferred way of doing it. It's easier if you can go inside and pull a fuse or turn off the main breaker. Myself personally, I usually like to pull an N1 or N2 fuse. That way it starts up, transfers over. You've got utility voltage there and you've got generator voltage also. It just switches over. You have a little bit of a blink. You don't lose your computers. You don't lose your clocks on the radios, whatever. And usually you're fine and you transfer back. It should shut off here in a second. All right, she's coming through its one minute cool down area and switched over. I'm pretty satisfied with what we've got here. Like I said, it transferred back and forth and we've pretty much already checked all the things that I've already gone through several times here. Those are the things that we checked. That's what we did. I'm gonna recommend we replace that fuel. Whatever you wanna call it, I forget. They call it something stupid. It doesn't even really sound like what it is. But either way, it's not really the solenoid but it's more of the fuel regulator. I'll go ahead and stick that back in there along with all this other goodness and let's see if we can find that screw. Got that in there right now. We're good to go there. All right guys, hopefully you enjoyed the video. If you did, hit the thumbs button. Check out some of the other videos. I've got other generator videos and HVAC and refrigeration videos. Check them all out down below. Check us out on Instagram, Facebook and until next time guys, we'll catch you on the next one later.