 On the April 2024 What's Neat. It is time to weather this structure, and I'm going to put a coat of burnt umber on it, and I'll show you how I'm going to do this. It's oil paint weathering like we do freight cars. The What's Neat show is sponsored by Lombard Hobbies, your value hobby shop for over 40 years of modelers helping modelers. Big inventory, value pricing, fast shipping, and great service. And by Broadway Limited Imports, the cutting edge leader in model trains. Check out their website at Broadway-limited.com. And by Bachman Trains. Now that's the way to run a railroad. Check out their website at BachmanTrains.com. And thank you for helping us support the best hobby in the world. This is What's Neat for April 2024. I'm your host Ken Patterson. And this month we've got a really good show in that we have got most of this show dedicated to layout construction, whereas I've been working on this diorama now for many years. And this time we've worked on all the scenery on the backside of the diorama on the other side of this double track main line. There's a lot of steps in the process as we work on building this building and laying track. This is going to be broken up into a two-part segment, whereas the following month we're going to do all the scenery, and I still have a lot more to do that's not finished here yet, including lighting, electrical wiring, scenery, trees, bushes, so many different things. Also this month, Doug Blaine from Bachman Industries shares with us a lot of the new products that are coming out now for April. And also from Broadway Limited, I've got this amazing locomotive in stores just now. This is the Redding T1 steam locomotive in end scale. I shot this beautiful locomotive in outdoor sunlight. It's an absolutely gorgeous, exquisite model to see run. I ran it on the test layout down here. It's got Paragon store sound in it, amazing lighting, and it smokes, and it's got that amazing sound as you see it running in this video clip on the test lab. It's a sweet locomotive, the real Redding T1 locomotive was built right after World War II around 1945 to 1947 is when the railroads took existing locomotives that they had had, which were 210 locomotives, and they converted them into these beautiful T1 locomotives because right after World War II the restrictions were still in effect so they couldn't just buy new locomotives off the shelf. And it worked out really well for them. Broadway Limited is offering this locomotive in the American Freedom Train paint scheme from 1976 whereas this locomotive pulled that train. So a lot of neat models coming out, check out their website at Broadwaylimited.com for the new end scale Redding T1 locomotives. And so with that, be sure to check out the What's Neat this week video podcast that we shoot down here every Saturday night, keeping you updated on what's new in the hobby with trends, special guests, a regular podcast crew. It's just a fun way to keep updated on this, the best hobby in the world. And so with that, let's continue on with the rest of this April 2024 What's Neat. For this segment of What's Neat, we're going to work on this diorama that I had started on about two years ago, whereas I shared with you the very first part of building this scene out was actually building the diorama, laying all the track, putting this Code 55 rail down in the grass, building all of these roads out of actual cement, creating the railroad crossing out of wooden ties and otherwise creating a really great foreground scene that was generic and could be used for any type of loading or unloading on the cement platform, which has actually become a great photo prop for doing photo and videos for the podcast show. It's a great spot and it was always intended for photography for this thing to go outside and be used for videography and photography. Well, now I'm starting to finally work on the scenery on the back side on the other side of the double track main line. And I've tried a bunch of different buildings and scenarios in that we had put a grain elevator or a couple of them on here to see what it would look like. I then took a train station, actually a couple of different train stations, fit them in the spot to see what it would look like. I also have this building that came from the Walthers like Roundhouse series. I think this is a power generating plant building. And I think I'm going to repurpose this building and design the scene overall so that if I build a nice cement smooth surface here I could use it for anything for videography and what do I mean by that? I mean I could put a grain elevator here or a train station or any type of other sets of buildings for doing video. But on the home layout presently, when it's inside here on the layout room I think I'm going to put this Walthers structure here. Now I'm going to modify the structure and cut down this part of the building so it's more of a rectangular structure and it's not going to be a locomotive engine house, it's going to be a garage for working on equipment, for working on caterpillars and bulldozers and backhoes and interesting things like that. We're also going to put an exciting, which I've started working on and I'm going to share with you everything up to this point of where I've gotten it in the how-to videos as we move forward. But I've got the tracks sort of laid out as to where I think it's going to go and I'm going to continue this process and see how this ends up including taking this structure and starting to build it all over from scratch rather from my kit rather than take this one and modify it because this has been a great photo prop for over 12 years for doing photos outside. So with that, let's continue on with this project and see how it goes. I started this process by really sizing up the topography of the area because this area was originally supposed to have a road carved down, going away from the main line so the gradient, the topography drops off down about a quarter of an inch, almost a half an inch and because of this, it was completely uneven going from the switchyard plywood down to the foam module with the drop of nearly a quarter of an inch so I used a level to try to figure this out and sure enough I was able to do that you could visibly see the depression in the foam and what I had to gradually bring the track down and it was going to be a simple process. First I took the area of track that's been roughly laid into place and I sharpie and I traced the edges of the track so that I would know exactly where to put the foam that would then fill this depression. I chose to use Foam Pro this amazing product that when it comes out it doesn't expand very much it sticks to the foam perfectly and when it cures it's easy to carve and it's solid so this would be the material that I would put down on the layout to fill this area and it won't take very much After the foam set up and was completely cured I then took this saw this is kind of a sideways saw where I was able to saw the foam's top layer down removing most of the material as it doesn't take again very much to fill the void that we had to fill. Once that was done I then took the Stanley shore farm planer and I started smoothing the topography at an even rate coming down. I then took a sander a large 17 inch long automotive body sander to bring out the final smooth and level gradient this sander is perfect for doing things just like this. Now that I've filed down the great stuff Foam Pro and sanded it smooth as you've just seen me do we now have a nice gentle transition from this piece of plywood coming down the foam where I had previously carved out the foam and had to refill it to get a nice gradual transition of track coming down to about right here at its lowest point and then it's going to gradually work its way back up as I've started with the Stanley shore farm planer to at least level this part again there was meant to be a road here a road right here as the gradient went down away from the tracks never intending on laying tracks here thinking that I would even have to have a level surface at least four and a half feet wide but now we've got that as I work along where the building is which is going to be modified here and then I've got the track temporarily put into position it has not got its final curvatures and bends in it as of yet because again we're still in the planning stages of this the last thing I'm going to tell you is that I carved this out also with the Stanley shore farm planer it's going down about a quarter of an inch to keep the track relatively level but what this would make would be a great area to build up with the cement and have a wall right here to be able to actually roll equipment on to flat cars I think so that might get built into this as we take the cement work gradually make this go down sloping towards the building level the building in its position and then work on the back area with either gravel or further cement apron and then gravel so let's continue on with this and see how she keeps going along the only other thing I want to say is that I did in fact get these tracks lined up coming out of the switch yard with a number six for microengineering right here and then some microengineering code 70 to complement the whole thing so let's continue on and see what happens next I sealed the freshly carved foam with flat brown latex paint just to give something to protect the foam to seal the foam so that there's no foam shrinkage or any contact with the air and then I set this aside to dry just let it sit there as it's now time to start working on the turnouts so before I can lay the track I've got to get these switches so that there is power beyond the frog to the two rails beyond the frog on the inside switch so what I'm doing is I'm taking small wires and I've dug out the underneath plastic side all the way to the ties to the rail actually so I can solder these wires onto the rail one jumps from the outside rail to the inside of this rail the other one jumps from the inside rail here to the outside rail so that this will give power to the rails coming right off of the frog right here now if you do not do this you'll have to drop feed wires underneath your layout for both sets of wires but I want this turnout to control the power from the points throughout the whole turnout for me going off onto the sitings and then I'll put in my own block switches and notch out the rails somewhere down the main line in order to kill the power in each side track so I'm doing that before we can do the test laying of all of the track and then do the final curvature of the setting tracks now it's time to start really lining up the track getting the curvature to match the main line at the same time to be level and smooth now the beauty of micro engineering track is the fact that when you get it bent into the shape that you want it holds its shape it doesn't flex back straight again so therefore I find it very advantageous to use their track in a scenario like this where I'm just trying to get the curvature just right and I don't want it to change after I've got it bent just the way I want it so at this point everything's looking pretty good I'm painting all the track with a camouflage earth brown paint from rostoleum and I'm painting this track over the trash can actually catching the overspray usually I always paint track after it's glued down and it's set into place but in this case I wanted to paint the track beforehand so I wouldn't get any overspray on the existing completed scenery we're just in the room in general so it was easier just to paint it over a trash can and let the fumes and everything settle now painting the turnouts I also painted those very careful not to get paint around the switch points or the spraying that springs the micro-engineering turnouts but so far everything's painted so now it's time to put on all of our rail joiners and get this track soldered together and then we'll glue it down into place I'm using a Dremel motor tool with wire brush on it to simply clean the paint off of all of the track ends to which we will apply end scale atlas rail joiners to these to attach and connect all the code 70 sections of track together so it's really important to get the track areas clean usually if you're using weathered micro-engineering track you have to do this because we've already painted this prior to assembly I'm cleaning it again with a wire brush then I put everything back into place and work my way along it's a small section so it's easy to do but then we're going to go ahead and start wiring the main body get everything soldered together once it's soldered together then we can go ahead and start gluing this all down so let's get through this process as quickly as we can so we can start working on the textures the earth the ballast the cement and all the other neat things including the building ready set go I'm installing atlas code end scale atlas end scale rail joiners onto this code 70 track because it looks really good and the rail joiners are smaller than the standard atlas scale rail joiners so they even look better when you're using smaller gauge track including code 55 this code 70 that's what I'm simply sitting here and making sure that all of the areas are cut evenly at each joint and it seems like I've been off about a 16th or a 30 second of an inch on each one so I'm using these nippers to nip it flush cutters once they get established then I come in with a file and I file the underside here I want to show you this I use this diamond file and I file the underside just make sure there's no rough edge so that the rail joiners will then slide on smooth so with all the rail joiners in place I've got power now running to this piece of track from the switch yard track as the power runs down the rails and I've got a locomotive here and some cars and a caboose I was simply test running it make sure everything looked level and smooth in the joints at the very end of the track it's down there there's a little lean which I think is excessive so I'm going to just shave that down a little bit more but all the way around now everything's into place the final curvature is bent so now it's time to take a side of the iron solder all the track together so it'll be stable and solid so that then as I lift it up I'm going to put glue on it and I want to talk about this glue that I'm going to use because this is something new that I've never used before when I glue down this track I'm going to use this Gorilla Max Strength clear construction adhesive multiple reasons I used to always use quick seal plus from DAP and I'd get it in clear and it would dry clear and it was paintable and it attached the track down perfectly I have not been able to find that now in a couple of years I can find black and white but I can't find clear so this Gorilla glue I picked up today at the local true value it says it gives you time to work with it that it is clear which it is and that it is paintable which is important so we can get balanced to stick to it what I did was I took a piece of wood and some code 83 microengineering weather track and I glued it down in my regular method of the way I do on the diorama is using this glue and it worked it's set up in about 30 minutes to an hour and it is in fact clear and I can paint this so now that's what's going to happen after we get everything soldered we'll then glue this into place now that the rail jointers are on and all the track is laid out into the final position what I'm doing is I'm soldering together all of the rail jointers and the joints so that this piece of trackage will become stiff it won't come apart I'll be able to lift it up just a little bit and take a putty knife a small painter's knife and apply the glue underneath the ties now I'm using this Milwaukee soldering gun this is one of their M12 line battery pop operated devices and it's absolutely fantastic for soldering there's no wires I'm not connected to any sort of a situation of electric it's all battery operated and this chisel point tip right here just seems to work perfectly we're just heating up the rail section of both pieces of track and the rail jointer very quickly without melting any ties look how good that solder flows just like that so let this set up and now we'll start gluing down the track next so I've taken our gorilla glue this construction adhesive and I put it on a piece of wood and I'm using a painter's knife I'm carefully lifting up the track and smoothing the glue onto the fold just like peanut butter now you don't have to glue with this type of glue as strong as this stuff is from our test that we did you don't need to put it under every single inch of track if you don't get good coverage you can skip around a little bit and this still will hold down the track very adequately especially once we ballast it and put down the woodland scenic cement which is further strength and adhesion for the track edge so far so good this stuff is not affecting the latex paint that we use to seal the diorama happy to see that that's not a problem so let me continue this and this thing should all be tight and down in just a few minutes the next part of this project is to work on the wafer's machine shop and that's this building that I was going to use repurpose as a repair facility in this case for the maintenance equipment I'll let you under your equipment the back hose, the cats but I want to modify this building a little bit now I'm not going to run tracks through it I'm going to use it where you just drive the equipment in to be repaired or serviced but what I want to do is I want to modify this part of the building eliminating this outcrop of the building flush so that the building ends up being a simple rectangle that'll allow more space between the building and the track edge for the service road to run next to the building and yet it'll also change the aesthetics of the building a little bit now rather than take this structure that I've used for photo shoots over the last 10 years and cut it up and modify it I simply purchased another one of the wafer's machine shop kits and I'm going to get much easier to cut the pieces when they're flat before you assemble them for example the main wall once this part gets pushed in flush with the wall all I have to do is simply attach these two pieces together and I've got that part of the building already set and ready to be glued I've got all the parts of the kit laid out I simply need to paint the windows which I'm going to paint rustolium roof brown the brick walls themselves are going to be painted with this rustolium flat red primer paint I just like the way it makes for a dark brick color on structures so what we're going to do now is I'm going to take these walls take my measurements see what needs to be changed and cut and then I'm going to cut these pieces with great precision on this table saw that I got from micro mark I think it's called a micro lux table saw and this is the second or third one that I've had in my lifetime it cuts plexiglass it cuts all types of material and what makes it work for me is this sled this plexiglass sled that I built which makes the whole work piece move through the saw blade and with the work piece tight against this fence everything's always square and I can literally shave off a quarter of a row of bricks or just a quarter of a brick it's very very precise I've got the blade down into the saw right now so that's at this point where I'm at on this I will shoot video and let's see the process as this moves along to make the cuts I used a scriber and I scribed the work piece so that I would have a good line to follow with the saw and in this case it's just right and this is the part of the building that I do want to cut off so I'm losing a window and a door but it's going to be completely square as we cut this in the saw the saw simply speaks for itself it's very precise the sled makes cutting safe in that your fingers aren't near the work piece as you're shaving off the precise cut that you want to make I'm going to attempt to fit together just like a picture frame and look good I used this disc sander to just take off just a little bit up to the edge of the front of the bricks which would then give me a clean 45 so after cutting and doing a little final filing I've got the structure being held together with three pieces of masking tape and a lot of steel blocks that are holding the walls in the position where everything is cut now the change that I wanted to make to this structure was to eliminate where it came out here from the building and I've done that now by making it flush and everything matches up nice I also took the top part of the building where there would be stairwell going up to the roof and I made that a little bit narrower just taking all the guesswork as I was looking at the pieces on how they would fit together it would retain the same type of look as it had before but it would be narrower the whole structure overall which as you can see you can really see it from this angle here on the front how things have changed here and this will allow for the road next to the building so what I need to do is do some final filing we'll glue all the corners together and use the base that came with the kit like I did on this one this time I just want the structure to sit atop of the cement foundation that I will build in the place on the diorama and then the building will sit right on top of that so with no base the roof itself would be the main structure that will hold all the walls together square I wanted to cut a door on the second story piece so what I did was I drilled some holes into the wall and then scrolled a scroll saw blade through this so that I could effortlessly cut the door opening and then file it to size to fit one of the doors in the kit that I have so I've just finished gluing the corners of the last two sections of the main part of the building together and this will dictate the placement on the layout with regards to the size of base that I'm going to have to create for this on the layout I also put a piece of brass stock inside of this so that the main wall wouldn't warp I usually would use plexiglass but I'm working at about three in the morning and I actually don't want to cut anything loud right now in the house so this will suffice and work perfectly and be blended in as things are painted and clear the windows so at this point we let this set so a simple little change to an existing structure now creates an area where there's actually room to have a vehicle on a road right here in place where as opposed to see the way it used to be there was absolutely no room for a vehicle between the trackage so just a simple little change so now it's time to build a base for this building so that it sits absolutely level to the scenery I'm painting all the windows the guttering, the doors with a camouflage brown earth brown paint from Rust-Oleum, the camouflage line of paint that works really good last minute change on the paint I've decided to use flat red primer from Rust-Oleum on this project when I hit this with oil paint weathering a nice wash of burnt umber it will bring this color down make it look just fantastic you want to be light on this paint with today's paint can nozzles it comes out pretty good just don't put on so much where you've got any drips or rundown you don't want that on this model you always use airbrushes so that you don't have that issue you can control the air and the paint flow but spray cans these days for the great nozzles they have really speed up the process of building things like a structure like this and that's all we need on this that looks good now it's time to do trim weather it I'm painting all the stone trim on the building using a number one fine paint brush and some aged concrete from Flocal there's no trick to this you just go slow if you do make a mistake you follow up with a clean paint brush dipped in a little lighter fluid and you can clean the paint off of the mullions the lighter color paint right off of the brick work and this is the way the cap stones and all of the stone work underneath each window turned out after it was painted now I'm taking the windows and I'm putting them in I cut all the windows out of the sprues they're all painted with the Rust-Oleum camouflage brown paint and I'm simply using testers the old fashioned method the tube glue the edges of each window pane and then pressing them into their position and then after this then we'll weather the entire structure before putting in the glass I've masked off the building here on the end to simply spray some of the Rust-Oleum camouflage paint onto the door trim and the lintel above the door doing this over a trash can doesn't require very much paint at all just like that and then I'll peel off all of the masking tape which will immediately reveal the effect that I wanted of the door trim painted now I've also had to paint the louvers and the door right here that was mounted onto the structure so that couldn't be painted separately so what I've found is a great way and a great painter's trick is to take a a soda can and simply spray some of the paint right onto it just like this and then you can take a painter's brush and I'm using a number one brush here and just dip in it and then paint the parts of the building this will stay wet for about 10 minutes and give you 10 minutes of work time and then upon that clean the brush and lacquer thinner and then the structure next right now I'm cutting strips of some scrap plexiglass pieces that I've got this is a pretty thin plex and what this is for is for to cover the windows the window treatments on the building so after it's done being weathered then I can just go over it and do all of the windows as planned so I'm pre cutting those right now using the table saw and the sled let me show you how this is cut the sled holds the work piece in place I've got the pieces marked after the plastics removed that protects the plexiglass then this can just be laid into place into the building and cover up the windows from the inside now that the guttering is on the trim is painted the windows are in it is time to weather this structure and I'm going to put a coat of burnt umber on it and I'll show you how I'm going to do this it's oil paint weathering like we do freight cars I've got some turpenoid here on the table which I used to thin it instead of turpentine it's much easier and it doesn't attack the plastics or the paint I'll also have some paper towels here and an artist brush that we're going to use to pull down the burnt umber wash on the sides of the brick I've got some of the burnt umber out on the stone right here and I've already smeared it around and dipped a little bit of turpenoid in it to smooth it out and thin it a little bit and let me show you the process of how we're going to do this now I'm going to hold the building in my hand just like this I'm going to go into the bowl swirl around on the stone here I'm going to blot it on my paper towels so I understand how heavy it is while I'm washing the building I want to pull down straight as I do this and I just want a nice even coat and it just looks good right off the bat pulling straight down it gives a great washing effect on the stonework and so with that I'm going to set this down and let it dry this should be dry in about 6 hours and we can put the glass in the structure and put the roof on top of the building now that the oil paint washed that we put on this building is dry and it's been about 18 hours and it looks good I took the roof that came with the kit and I ran it to the sanding disc that I have to sand off about a 16th of an inch so that this roof piece I built some framework on the interior of the structure too out of plexiglass around the edges and the corners so the roof can just sit in the place so it's easy to get to the interior of the kit in the event that I need to do some detailing on that the way the kit's originally set up without doing that while it fits on the ledge that's designed for it to get it over the capstone because the capstone protrudes further into the kit so you're literally prying the lid off which is what I've done previously with the other building that we didn't modify so now I'm to the point of putting the glass in and I'm using some glue that I've never used before this is gorilla glue clear, grip, contact adhesive and it dries clear and it's paintable all the plexiglass pieces the windows I've got all pre-cut now as I cut those on the table saw I've got a fine plexiglass and thin plexiglass that I had laying around so they're all pre-cut this piece will cover four windows here on the bottom at the same time and all I'm simply going to do is drop a couple of gloves of glue on the wall itself this stuff will set up pretty quickly just like so and this will not ooze into the glass area simply just lay the clean, beautiful plexiglass right on top and same with the small windows and I'm going to do this all the way around the structure the upper windows are going to be harder to get to here and I bought some masking tape so I can put some shades on the upper windows and that will pretty much complete our structure after putting in the glass I then put some window shades into the building the roof is on the building everything's been weathered now as you've seen I modeled the one door so that it looks like it's open right here the structure's color came out really great as you can see I also took a garage door off of the older structure and just slapped it on here now I did not build a base for this and the full intent is to lay this building on top of its own base made from this same material that you see right here and that's that daff patching cement that we like to use it's great stuff and I'm going to build a base for this building and then we'll get back inside and start working on the rest of the scenery on the scene at some point I'd like to light this building I haven't decided how to go about it yet whether I'm going to use the just plug lighting system from woodland scenics or some other type of lighting but at this point it's time to move on with the rest of this project now and so that concludes this segment of what's neat part one of this layout construction segment next time we will continue on with the ballasting the weathering of the ballast all the cement work the foundation for this building I'd love to figure out how to light this and otherwise super detailed the scene over there where the vegetation have the track growing deep in the grass a lot more coming up on part two of layout construction for what's neat for the segment of what's neat I've got Doug Blaine from Bachman Industries all the way out from beautiful Philadelphia Pennsylvania Doug you've got a lot of neat new products to talk about for this month of April tell us what you've got we do indeed great to be with you Ken and all your viewers I'm going to start with our new catalog I know it was mentioned on the last segment but it is now in print and also posted on our website so this is our 2024 catalog ready to go so there's an online PDF version at Bachman trains.com and you can also purchase your own copy there as well it's 300 plus pages full of four color train goodness that's a lot of work we'll check it out that's a lot of work to put out a publication like that absolutely so and then in charge of licensing here at Bachman so I wanted to show you some new license products coming your way I'm going to start with this is although it's springtime now looking forward to the summer I'm going to start with a Christmas product and that is a brand new the elf on the shelf train a lot of people I think are familiar with the elf in the shelf book and the whole story so I won't go into all that but just a little bit you got to hide an elf every day as Christmas approaches and the kids need to they're allowed to talk to the elf you got to show me show me a train there's locomotive and tender with a nice it's called the name of the train set is the scout elf express and we've got this locomotive colorfully decorated of course nice Christmas colors and the scout elf on the tender there there you go and we have other cars also with the elf on the shelf colors and design so here's the boxcar I'm going to save the elf on the shelf till last there's the boxcar for you okay caboose and then we have an open gondola with the one and only the elf on the shelf so here's the gondola oh wow check it out all right comes with the elf on the shelf figure riding in the gondola it's removable poseable what have you so you have your own elf on the elf on the shelf that comes with the set and great for kids great for fun for Christmas and the holidays I know what Holly's going to have running on the layout this coming up year because that elf on the shelf stuff that little elf was running around this house this past year doing all kinds of tricks excellent so yeah you know the story I did I did one day I woke up and there was toilet paper streaming all over the house it was the elf from what I understand so that's amazing I can relate sounds great all right also new on a nice color for local train set is the circus spectacular the Ringling Brothers Barnum and Bailey has relaunched the whole circus concept so this train is ready to go this will be out the fourth quarter like the elf on the shelf so the Ringling Brothers Circus traveled by rail for you know decades and decades so this is our latest incarnation based on their newest colors newest branding nice great looking set there's look motive boxcar and just as an aside some of us at Bachman involved in the licensing we had the opportunity to see the newest Ringling Brothers show in Philadelphia it was spectacular they really did a great job much fun kids had a great time you know the circus is still fun for children of all ages we had a wonderful time perfect so one more car we got a caboose to come in there and again this will be out fourth quarter this year and also I don't have product to hold up for you right now but I do have pictures that I think you'll be able to bring up on the screen we have a new generator car that will be out fourth quarter that goes with a classic series of Ringling Brothers products we've already produced and so it's a companion piece and a new steam locomotive that will corresponds with a new Ringling Brothers colors that I just showed you so there's a steam locomotive in the new colors that's with a smoke and an operating headlight and then a generator car that goes with a classic series we've already produced it's still available good job Doug and then also I also have to share a few Thomas products with you so I don't think I showed this the last time but I'm going to show it maybe again I don't know but anyway we have this is Bow this is no we have not seen that that's cool okay so this is Bow Bow is based on a 440 American it's an American style Thomas product which is very unique for the Thomas series so it's a great way to introduce American railroading to someone who is a collector of the Thomas products it does have a face I don't know if you're going to be able to see it through all the plastic I'm sorry I don't have one out of the that's okay the packaging is beautiful too and unlike our other HO scale Thomas locomotives that the eyes do not move on this one it does have an operating headlight nice that's perfect and this is the upgraded 440 that doesn't have the drive shaft between the tender and the locomotive this is a great running engine correct I know that so this will be probably available I'd say late summer that's awesome that's coming and then we have I'm going to show you a new tool in the Thomas series this is for a 12 ton van painted sample with a final paint on it but just showing you a tooling that we will have available we have four color schemes coming out with this so that will be available later this year nice and then one more locomotive and I don't think I've showed this to you before either this is a painted sample for our N scale Emily locomotive and here she is so there you go this is a sterling single and I think this is the first time it's been available in N scale and from any manufacturer in N scale and I've got my hand by fingers right over the main drive wheel there so anyway just the main wheel is I see what you're grabbing there I love it okay so this is the main drive wheel is powered and then the one set of the leading trucks this set of wheels is also powered so this will help this locomotive get through the turnouts and that's the same way we did it for our H.O. model and I believe the large scale model as well it's beautiful oh yeah look what appeared oh it's got a little dust on it I apologize I had no idea but it's so pretty when it's running outside yeah it's you know just the motion of that large wheel is really attractive very mesmerizing and there's going to be a few minor paint changes on this but this is basically ready to go that's fantastic Doug it's just amazing it looks like a watch the mechanism must be just perfect it's a great runner we've tested it and she runs very smoothly good job so that's it for our new licensed product happy to share them with you and again the everything is available online at bachmentrains.com get yourself a new catalog and just keep going with the model railroading we're happy to bring you as much as we can yes absolutely rock and roll Doug we love it when we hear about the new products I am still juiced about the Amtrak products that were discussed just a few episodes ago because I know they're going to come out soon and that's just something I love in H.O. so you're doing the new the most modern cars that are just coming out I mean they just came out the America cars yeah we are absolutely we'll call it on the leading edge shall we there you go all right rock and roll Doug we love you thank you for being on What's Neat and so with that that ends this segment for What's Neat all the products seen on this episode of What's Neat are available from Lombard Hobbies in Lombard Illinois or order online at LombardHobbies.com and by Broadway Limited Imports the cutting edge leader in model trains check out their website at Broadway-limited.com Bachman Trains now that's the way to run a railroad check out their website at BachmanTrains.com