 This is the non military version of the commando padlock commando lock company padlock Here's the one side There's the so we'll call that the left got these sort of Extra embedded wafers not exactly sure what's going on there, but we'll find out There's the front The other side pretty symmetrical and Back to the side, okay then Here's the Key end you can see made in the USA I believe these are the special rivets that they talk about in the data sheet. I Don't know if that's a master keyway or not, but pretty pretty basic lots of room to maneuver in there If they wanted to make it a little more secure they could Use a more circuitous keyway, but I think for this application, it's probably okay And then here is from the top Okay more rivets and more of these better rivets and the keys One side Swim in a little bit you can see the key code which appears to May have the appearance of but is not a direct bidding code That's a good security feature Looked at a few of these and does not appear to be a direct code There's the other side Keys are nicely made clearly milled and see the faces of them so Pretty nice Now here is the mark that I made on it in the previous video with the tip of my knife Which I think has an a u.s. 8 blade But it may not be a good reference. So this is a craftsman screwdriver standard issue made, I don't know but Eight years ago when I bought it. So I thought I'd try that as a Alternative scribe so I'm just gonna use the corner of This and you can see that that leaves a pretty good impression And if I scrape repeatedly That does appear to be Making a superficial mark, but I think that's just scraping through the finish with that Okay, the knife actually dug into the metal a little bit more I can feel a deeper groove there Now if I use something that's a little bit harder This is the end of a pick which is made from a Axle blade and that broke so I'm assuming this is a pretty Hard part of the metal. Let's pick another spot here make a mark and that feels like it's digging in a little more I'm making a huge amount of progress but you know Reasonably good and then as a reference Here is my carbide scribe I think I showed in another video. I'm running out of places to test this thing But let's come in here right above the logo. So this is something that's should be very hard And it's designed to actually cut. It's making a decent mark in there So this piece of metal not too bad Let's just take a look at the shackle now focus again and We'll just Screwdriver. I can't get any purchase on that at all There's no no effect. That's the part that claims to be hardened There's that piece of hardened Hacksaw blade again, and that's also just gliding off of that and then this carbides scribe And I can feel that actually digging in you can see that does leave a See if we can Yeah, you can see the mark that that left but that's carbide So I would expect that to scratch it. It didn't dig in hard though so No shackle same and this is just the hardened so shackle They also make a boron shackle which I was unable to obtain hardness-wise Not too bad Let's look at a few other aspects of a construction It's reasonably heavy. It's clearly made out of steel This is all steel that's clearly steel Rivets are steel. Okay Look at the shackle Looks good a little bit of play not bad Let's look at the clearances even though we know that it's not gonna we're not gonna be able to shim it because of the ball bearings, but just for the sake of the construction a little bit of clearance there You know tolerances are not bad I'd say So he goes in I'd say nice and smooth Rotation not a whole lot of resistance and then Shackle opens I'm able to relock it in the open position which I noticed in the video so I can now remove the key With the shackle open, I know I wouldn't be able to relock it, but I can You know operate I can leave it unlocked in this position and we can see the ball bearing Which claims to be hardened. I don't have a good way to Test that at the moment Not be able to get purchase on it Decent I would say decent millings on the shackle Though I might like to see these a little bit deeper, but they may have chosen to make them shallower to not compromise the pole resistance on that the other thing that You sometimes will see in a That's a fancier lock the essence like some of the s and g's is That instead of this being a through cut like they've taken a milling cutter or a drill and Just cut a straight what they do is they actually come in and make a cut in With a like a ball and melt So that There's more metal on the sides here, and that's a little tighter fit with the ball bearing I don't know how much of a difference that makes in strength, but And you know, but I didn't say it's too wobbly a little bit of tolerance, but not bad There's no spring on it, which I kind of like but So you can just set it there and get it where you want it And then lock her back up So I've got the thing checked up in a vise now. I thought I'd look at attacking the shackle with a few other Maybe more appropriate tools So I have here a sterret brand new sterret Hacksaw blade hacksaw pretty standard thing you might use to attack a Take a lock. So Let's just give it a I can feel it just gliding over the steel just to show you the Spot where I just hit it. I think you can see a tiny mark barely actually, I'd say it didn't hardly even leave a mark whether maybe furnishing the surface a little bit Again, that's a brand new hacksaw blade Fine tooth. So I would expect something from that and then another tool This is a Nicholson Triangle file Not brand new. It's had a little bit of use on it But it tends to cut pretty well because it's got these kind of sharp edges on it So thought we'd hit it with that see if maybe that gives a little bit more I'm not gonna be as aggressive because I don't want to mess up the file Now that is Grabbing a little bit Though I'm afraid it is probably dulling The teeth on my file more than anything else Okay, I can feel them whoops I can feel the mark Here and you can see a small mark, but you know, I think if I kept doing that Shackle would have won that would have destroyed my file more quickly than getting through the shackle now. I'm sure Both cutters with sufficient size would chew through this. I'm not gonna bother with that Next attack next thing I'm gonna do because we're We're you know, we're pickers not thieves as look See if I can get the lock core out and take a better look at the Locking mechanism itself So we'll see how that goes Continuing our investigation into the mando lock It is now In about 20 minutes since I filmed the last segment and I've been in the garage with my dremel Cleverly think I've already packed my Angle grinder, which would have made faster work of this. I've made two grooves here and Then this thing is a little hot so I'm gonna use this little clamp to Burn myself And then I've excavated a little bit Up to the top. I'm trying to get the plug or the the entire locking mechanism out without Destroying it. So I've removed this little corner of metal here and this Top piece here, I don't know which way it goes, but I don't know where it goes goes in here somewhere. No, maybe that way Anyhow, yeah Sorry guys, I cut through your logo, but anyhow So we can see that this there's nothing special about this What I thought might have been a Shit might have been a some type of hardened steel insert or whatever. This is just a part of the outer lamination But I did find one interesting thing So this is from this. This is from this corner here Okay, so this is two laminations thick and You'll notice that they are Well, they're still joined together. They can rotate a little bit. So there's a rivet or a pin of some kind through Through there that is holding these together. So even if I had even if I had ground off These rivet and I read the instructions. So I knew that this wasn't going to get me very far If I'd ground off these rivets the whole thing wasn't going to fall apart So you can see I've been able to excavate around the plug I Can now see or not the plug but the entire core I can now sort of see the boundaries of it I need to come up a little higher here and Come around here get some of this this next layer of lamination off And then I might be able to get it out if there's no retaining pins So that's going pretty well and then interestingly I was like well It's all a lot of smoke coming out Which I assume is that WD-40 burning away as this thing gets really hot But interestingly the lock still functions So if someone had attacked it this way and after 20 minutes given up with their Dremel then You know your lock would still be locked in place and you'd still be able to get it off with the key So back to the garage back to the Dremel new grinding wheel and We'll see see what happens next. Okay guys. It's been about another 10 or 15 minutes and as you can see I have Successfully removed the core from the lock. We can see the interlocking mechanism that the tailpiece of the lock would engage with and I believe if I Yep, come in there that releases and It's not going to go any further for me So put this back and see part of the cam I may take the rest of that apart at some point So I ended up removing where to go this piece and Another little piece which went flying across the garage You can see that's still being held together pretty tightly by I had to actually pry that off a little bit by the rivets which I've shorned through you can see they're kind of These these additional rivets here are holding these laminations together So even if I compromised all of the outer rivets all of these pieces here are still staying together In significant part, of course, I've cut the sides off by the side millings here But this is I'd say that's a pretty nice construction and they seem to be individual each pair of Laminations is individually riveted together So that's going to make it probably a lot harder to rip this thing apart If you wanted to Attack it in that manner. The other thing I'll note before I get to the cylinder Is that as I was cutting through this material? I Could feel that each individual Plate or each individual lamination Had been it felt like case hardened So I would hit when I hit the corner of something or I hit a new plate the wheel would kind of bind up and Scrape and scrape until probably until it got it hot enough that it destroyed the temper and then would start cutting through again normally So it looks like they've taken the care to to Carden each of these laminations before they put it together So this actually potentially gives you a stronger and particularly with all their rivets Stronger construction than a solid piece of steel Which you would not be able to more than about an inch you you probably would not be able to get that much hardness And once you got in there you're dealing you're dealing with soft steel here the face of each of these things is That hardened steel so as you cut down through it whichever direction you go Your grinder is having to hit lots of very hard material which tends to tear it away And my grinding wheel is pretty much toast at this point I may have another inch or two left an inch of cutting left on it or so But it's it's down to not a whole lot bigger than the plug From you know this diameter so this thing did a number on my grinding wheel Okay So I'd say pretty decent construction on that I'm not I'm not just displeased with that at all particularly for a laminated lock And particularly for a lock that costs like I don't know retail $7 or something So not bad, okay, so I have now Destroyed my lock It's a difficult part, but this is the plug that came out of there and it actually Like a little twiddle can go back in you can see that I Thankfully stopped this This cut here before I got a little too excited because I would have probably ended up cutting through the cylinder And I wouldn't have wanted to do that But here's the lock the actual lock And it still works great with the key despite having been heated to the point where I think all of the oil burned inside it All the lubrication burned off I could see smoke coming out of the thing for a while It's a little it's a little rough in there But and that's not surprising, but it still functions and I would like to make a point Let's see if we can get a really good shot of this Now this is a lock, which is not ever designed to be taken apart Right clearly, but if you look at it Miss even get a good angle there If you look at this carefully you can see that the plug is held in by a circlip Now we all hate circlips But I want to make the point that those new master slash American locks that a number of people have done videos on They just basically peened over the metal on here or they you know Permanently affixed the plug these guys went through the trouble to put a circlip on there Not that we're going to be repinning this in any useful way But you know they've gone through the trouble to actually construct a pretty decent locking mechanism You can also see here This this bit the tailpiece which rotates when you turn the key. I hope I'm in focus here Is I don't really want to shoot this again this tailpiece? Engages directly into That slot down there Directly into the locking mechanism That actually holds the bolt in place. So there's no way you're going to bypass this there's no way you're going to stick a wire or something in there and And actuate the and then release the bolt without the plug turning So I'd say pretty secure design nicely done and they despite it being a little bit smaller in in stature to an American Core, which I clearly don't have one laying around but It is a five pin lock and It's better constructed I would say So the next step is I'm going to take this puppy apart and see what's inside Okay, so we've taken I've done taken the Locking mechanism apart and I found some pretty cool stuff in here So let me zoom in on so you can see there's five pins five springs The springs are steel, which you don't see I don't see that off all that often the pin chambers appear to be countermelled a Little bit, but more than you'd normally see Maybe from the side it's a little More apparent, but there's a little bit of countermelling you can see some there So that's interesting. This is pin one So this is the top pen on pin one or the driver for those of you in in Europe and I would call that a Surrated spool and if you were watching the video last night You could see you could hear me Going on about feeling potentially feeling serrated pens and pin one is one of the ones where I felt that Unfortunately, I'll try to zoom in on the video when I edit it, but It's a little hard to see but there's also some conical Some sort of tapering at the top of this so it acts And actually it may have been I may have it upside down They've gone like that, but at any rate it actually may act a little bit like a mushroom as well So it's kind of a neat hybrid pen. I've not seen one like that Actually, I suspect it was this way Okay, and two is a standard spool okay, and then As is pin four, so I won't show you that and then pin three is also one of these Funky, I'm gonna call it a hybrid hybrid spool So sort of serrated sort of mushroom a sort of spoolie So kind of three security pins in one The the serration in the center these things are so tiny. It's maybe a I don't know an eighth of an inch long at most the serration in the center is in it is a smaller diameter than the outer Diameter of this thing and that may be where I was getting that false set that just wouldn't clear it may have been getting hung up on that little guy and And just would not get out so between the chamfered Chambers and everything else that I may just you know not have been able to apply enough pressure to Get that out of false so it was pin three and then pin four is another spool and then another and Then the last pin pin five is a you can see it there. It's just a standard pin So I'd say pretty cool pinning Pretty neat pick I picked two of two of these so far and they both had some really do weird behavior So if you're interested in just having some fun picking a lock and not spending a lot of money Let's say these are pretty cool security wise I Think they could make this lock even better by putting Serrated drivers in I'm sorry serrated key pins in Maybe a six pin they've got plenty of room in there for it. It looks like There's almost a if you look at the plug There's almost a hole for a six pin there And I think if they I think there's probably clearance in there that they could get one more pin and make it a six pin lock and I would like to see some kind of drill protection on the plug They've got you know pretty decent steel overall in the construction of this thing And just putting a couple of drill pins in the in the front of the plug or even some ball bearings I think would you know would make it better Replacing this This front piece here Or maybe inserting a a piece of hardened steel in this area to protect the plug Because they've otherwise got a pretty solid lock. I'd say and if those ball bearings are really 440 or for 440 hardened stainless according to the manual Then I would expect you know your drill resistance up here is probably pretty good But if you drill this puppy out, you're gonna be able to open it pretty quickly and that's just brass so Overall I'd say a decent lock in its price band with a a little bit more investment in the Construction I think it could be a really good lock Probably one of the better ones at this in this price bracket and obviously if they were to You know take some the same technology apply it to a lock with a you know More solid body or thicker shackle again, they do make a boron shackle, but you know some other features a Removal core would be really nice I Think they have a I think I think you go there on to something good here. So Looking forward to seeing what they have what their next products are and If you don't have one of these locks hit the go to keep picking calm click the banner ad for these guys Here's their logo again And again, I have no best incentive whatsoever. I'm doing this other than just pure lock geekery But commando lock company I don't know if they're military grade yet, but they're getting there They're certainly more military grade than those stupid American locks. They've got out now. So I think they got them beat So you get two for one deal and keep picking comm and a personally hand signed. Thank you letter For ordering, which is kind of neat. You don't get that very often. So there's their website as well. So This is Alex and this is the This is not the lock I killed. This is the lock I killed. This is the commando lock The standard standard edition the military edition has the sort of yellow What's it called again? yellow tri-villain chromate Finish on it. I don't know what that means, but it's probably cool and Anyway, so thanks for watching Have fun and please keep it legal and happy Thanksgiving for those of you in America. Cheers