 Hey, what's up, folks? Welcome back to another layer by layer. In today's tutorial, we're going to take a look at a case for the QtPot ESP32 S2. So this is the case in Fusion 360. So I wanted to share a couple of fun things that I learned and some tips on using the design. So first up, let me pull up the user parameter window. And you can see here I got a couple of different user parameters. So folks just want to do some quick edits to the dimensions of the case. They can use these guys here. So let's say I wanted to widen the case. Let's say I want like 100 millimeters. You can just update that value. And all the features should just kind of update. So you can see here like these tabs have all shifted along with the length of it. And you can see the QtPy here is like exactly where it needs to be in the center. And yeah, that's working pretty well. So let me undo that or control Z that. So that's a real easy one to kind of mess with. Another thing I want to talk about is like the structure of the case. So it's actually three pieces. We have here the top cover and the bottom cover and the frame. The frame is really, really simple. It's thin, but because it's at this small scale, it's actually kind of rigid and it works pretty well. So the way the snap fits work, let me do control Z. Let me add a new section analysis so we can get a look on the inside of the case. So here you can see the top and the bottom. There you go. You can see the top and the bottom covers are what actually have the grabbers and the framing is what has the nubs. Normally that works pretty well for a three-piece case like this and it makes it really modular when you can just take off the bottom here and the top here. So that's really my jam. I like making it so you can break things open. So if you ever need to add more things, you don't have to reprint the case in the bottom because they're separate. So that's something that I really, really recommend is to making your case modular for the top and the bottom of it and then just having a frame. And you can make it in different colors as well. So that's always a good thing. Or if you have multiple printers, you can have all three of them printing at the same time. Cool, let's look at the other side of this section analysis and take a look at the other end of here. So here instead of having those grabbers, I just have these flat extrusions. So you can see here this surface is flushed with that surface and there's a clearance of about 0.2 millimeters. If I do the section analysis again, you'll see that the grabbers also have a 0.2 millimeters of clearance between those surfaces and that's just to accommodate for the expansion when it's been 3D printed. And you can play around with those values if you want a tighter or more loose case, you can just modify that. But yeah, so instead of having grabbers on all four sides, you just need them on two sides and then these surfaces here can be flat and that just prevents it. Because without those here, you would be able to kind of slide this front cover back and forth because those grabbers aren't going to stop. You know, they're going to stop it from sliding up and down. It just stops it from going this ways. So that's kind of how I structure them. So instead of printing and having it really, so you still want to be able to open it. So with these flat surfaces, you're able to kind of open it more freely. So that's how the top is. And you can just mirror those if you have it symmetrical. You can just mirror these features. You don't have to kind of draw them twice. You'll notice that there's a draft angle here. There's just a little bit of an angle 120 degrees just so that, you know, so that you print a little bit more material. I tend to do that with my end stops there. I just kind of draft those angles so they're a little bit more stronger. And speaking of that, let's take a look at the way the cutie pie is secured to the bottom cover. So you can see here I have these four corners and they are rounded. The four corners have these little bits of geometry that you can print without any support material because they're 45 degree angles. And they're created with a sweeping. So you just kind of extrude out these corners and then create a profile and then sweep it along this path here for the corners. And because the board has rounded edges, it tends to work out pretty well. Now I've done this sort of thing before with a cutie pie RP2040, but this cutie pie ESP32S2, it has more components. So if you look at the bottom, you can see there is a diode, a pretty chunky diode that's really close to the corner. Not too close, but I had to make a custom kind of bit that would not intersect there. So if I take a look at this from the top and then hide my cutie pie, you can see here that these little corner nubbins here, these actually keep the board elevated, away from the surface of the bottom cover because you need some room for those components such as all the diodes and the microcontroller itself. So with this one corner, I had to push this surface back because if I left it like this one here because it's just a mirror, it would crash into this component and that would be really bad. So I just had to make sure that this surface here was pushed back a little bit. So let me hide the cutie pie again. You'll see that that's, although this was created with mirrors and just mirroring one of these, I had to do an offset here on this little surface just to accommodate for that component. So you gotta be real careful with that one. Another thing you'll notice is that these surfaces here on the corners are all drafted angles and that helps it just be a little bit stronger when you're printing it out. So you have more material when you're printing. And then another thing is this right here, these surfaces have been cut and made flat so that when it's closed with the case, it's as close to the edge of the case as possible because we need that USB port to be as close to the edge as possible so that it's easier to get your USB connector fitted in there, USB cable rather fitted inside there. So I tend to do that. Now you could push this feature back, like the side of these features are pushed back. You could I guess leave the surface or drafted like that, but then you'd have to like really kind of fish your, your USB cable in and make sure that it fits in there. So chopping off a little bit of that surface and of course having some distance between those surfaces is a good idea. So let's take a look here. If I select this one and rotate around and hold down shift and select that one at the bottom here, you can see my minimum distance between those surfaces is 0.2 millimeters. So I'd like to keep it consistent with the rest of the snap fit features. But yeah, this also acts as a end stop as well. The surface here, the case can't push this way because these little holders here kind of keep it from doing so. And also there's an end stop here on the bottom with a very similar 0.2 millimeter of clearance between those. So that is how all of that is secured and nothing moves. Everything is really nice and tight and you can modify if you want it more loose or more tight as you'd like. So yeah, so that's how the QT Pi is being fitted there. Another thing I wanna talk about is the way I created these rails, these slots for the top and the bottom covers. Normally I would use like a rectangle. I would extrude that rectangle and then I would do a rectangular pattern but there is a new thin extrude feature. So in the sketch, I just have a single line and normally you can't extrude a line. You can only extrude a profile. But with some updates to fusion, they now have the thin extrude type. So the thin extrude type here, you have to select then extrude first and then select your lines. So you can select multiple lines or just one. You can chain them if you'd like. And really the thing I like to do here is I change my wall location to center and that makes it so that when you're changing the thickness, it's extruding away from the line cause you can do one side here. You can see how that changes the design. I like to have it in the center. That way my things are more center based and you can add, the distance here is wall thickness. I just thought I'd use that user parameter but you could use whatever value. Yeah, and you can make these as thick or thin as you want. I have it set to three millimeters because I assume folks are gonna be using M25 hardware to secure like this BMP Stem Acuity Sensor. So anything with an M3 or M25 mounting hole should be able to fit here just fine. So once that's created, I use a fillet to round off the edges just to make it look nice. And then I use the rectangular pattern. For the rectangular pattern, I have a user parameter set up for the distance between these rails here. So you can make them tighter or find pitched or not. That's up to you. I thought putting a user parameter would make it parametric and you'll just wanna do a little bit of math if you want the distance from these surfaces, these lines that I just selected. If you want those to be consistent, you'll wanna do a little bit of math when you adjust the length of the overall case. But that's it. That's pretty much how I created those rails. Anytime I needed to do a series of rails like that, that's kind of like the method I'm gonna be using. All right, some other things I think that are part of the design other than the user parameters. I think there's a CAD animation that you can play with. So if you wanna take a look at how I animated this, you can use that. You can just switch between the animation and design and then see how I put that together. It's always a little bit finicky to make these designs. I tend to turn off the view record, so you see this view is not recording. I don't like that, so I normally just turn that off when I am animating. But that's gonna do. There's not much here I also wanna talk about other than you can reference the animation if you wanna do that sort of thing. But yeah, I hope folks use the case and remix it to however they wanna make it fit their setup. If you want the files, just as is, you can download it from our Learn Guide and you can also get the parts that were used here as well. That's gonna do it for this tutorial. Let me know what you think of it in the comments below. I'll see you guys next time, but until then, remember to make a great day. Bye, folks.