 So welcome back to another day in the bay, it's a bit of a different one this time because I'm on my own. I mean Patrick's here. We've got the Jag in, this is from the players guys who are going to be at Ultimate Dubs this weekend. So normally we get a car in from them so we can prep it for them, especially if they've got the play bay down at their unit and if that's particularly busy then we help out and we detail the cars for them. So we've got their recently bagged Jag in here, it's awesome old paint, it's just come from Cardio Security who have put on a fresh set of wheels and bagged it for the players guys so it was a nice transition from going from there to here to get nicely detailed so it's nice and fresh for the show. This is going to be a real proper swirl removal gloss enhancement video. So we're going to be going through clay barring, ultimate compound, polishing and hand waxing. So like we explained earlier this is coming in for some proper show prep. Now as you can see the paint is old, it's also very heavily swelled, it's got scratches, it's got marks, it's got stains so we can really go to town on this one and like I said this is a bit different from a normal day in the bay video as in the owner's not here. But that's fine, you know come the show season you're going to probably be seeing more of these when we get people dropped the car off. Especially people we have good relationships with, you know the players guys we've been working with them for many, many years as well as they're building a new YouTube channel as well so if you can check that out you'll get some great content on there as well. So the car has been cleaned, it's been washed and dried before coming to the bay so it means I can crack straight on with the clay barring. Now as we mentioned earlier in previous videos clay bar will not do anything to change the look of this paint but it will change how it feels. Now you can hear this contaminant sitting on the surface of the paint, that's when we want to use our clay bar. I'm going to use a quick detailer, get the surface nice and lubricated and if you want as well spray the clay as well. All I'm going to do is mipe down my left and right motions so I'm not going to go in circles because it's too random I could miss areas so what I'm going to do it's going to nice straight lines I can clearly see where I've been and it's just a nice even distribution of clay also you'll notice I'm just using fingertip pressure only that's because you don't need to press down on the paint all you need is a gentle motion just to gently remove those contaminants. Now the reason this is so important to clay bar before machine polishing or any kind of correction on the paint is because if there is contaminant sitting on the paint if you go straight in a machine polish that or hand polish here you're going to grind that contaminant into the paint so removing that is going to give you a better finish it's going to feel loads better as well. All you need to do is take a Supreme Shine microfiber towel and just wipe it off. Let me just move on to the next bit. We did a test panel, I always do a test panel before starting a detail on a car and just so I can get a gauge of what is needed to be done to get the most out of the paint. Now normally my first step would be to use our polishing pad with a compound just as a nice easy soft touch as in a start on the paint but that wasn't enough to get the heavy swirls and scratches out so I went to the Bernadette cutting disc which is a nice step up now this one's obviously it's a bit firmer than the polishing pad it's got a bit more backbone to it and I found that priming the pad with the compound and going at it with our DAE machine was the easiest way of getting the swirls out of that constantly battering the paint and keep going at it so yeah so using that combination with the ultimate compound and the burning in the disc is going to get this swirl free nice and quick. So before we get started on the car what I like to do is prep my pad so as you can see it's pretty hard it's a firm cutting disc that's what they are so what I like to do to open up the pores of the foam is scrunch it up beat it up what this does it kind of takes the edge off a little bit and it opens up the fibres so it can absorb more compound and keep cutting. And that won't take away any of this cutting ability not at all. It's softening the pores up so it absorbs more product. Exactly that. Like I say you only do this the ones at the start of the detail like I say it's kind of a ritual that I've kind of got myself into but I find it just absorbs way more product it means I can have longer buffing cycles so now the pad is nice and soft I want to prime the pad with the compound now I don't use water or detailer to prime the pad I use the product itself this way it keeps the pad cool we don't have any exposed foam rubbing on the paint work and it means that I can do longer buffing cycles to get a really nice finish on the paint. I'm going to get our ultimate compound which as you know is our kind of hero product well he is a hero product and it contains chemical cleaners to brighten dull faded colours but it also has the mechanical compounds to revive paint and remove our scratching swirls. It's going to use a spreader to feed it into the pad because I don't want any exposed foam rubbing on the paint work so I don't want to put more swirls on the paint. Now I only ever do this at the start of the detail if you get halfway around the car and you want to use a new pad and obviously you repeat this process I tend to find that this pad now will last me for the detail. Each section that I want to work I'm just going to do five little dots now you can do a cross if you can do a happy face and a happy face I just like doing five dots. Cable's over my shoulder this way it's not going to rub on paint work and cause more work for me. I'm going to stamp out the work area but I don't want to work. Now when it comes to compounding reducing your work area will get the better finish solely because you're not spreading the machine too much around you can concentrate on the small areas. So like we prime the pad I want to prime the surface so I'm going to set the speed to the lowest on the machine which is 30. I'm going to pull the trigger and quickly just spread the product. Now the important thing to mention is we're not taping up plastics solely because you don't need to with our products they're all plastic friendly if you're not confident about machine polishing the car and if you're not sure if you're going to catch the plastics feel free to master them up that's not a problem at all but I've spent far too much time in this bay and I know that the products I'm not going to mark the plastics is going to wipe straight off so if you don't want to you don't have to but if you want to it's not a problem. Gooping round machine it gives you the speeds for exactly the job that you want to do so I want to do swirl and defo removal 4858 now my go to is slap bang in the middle of those I'm going to do is I'm going to do two passes I'm going to go across the panel then up and down so I call this hashtag polishing it's just a nice regimented way of seeing where the machine has been and getting a nicer even spread of product before you get going with the machine it is really important to relax and chill out it is a big car we've got a lot to detail so the more relaxed you are the less impact machining is going to have on your body so holding the machine nice and chilled you don't need to hold and tight like you're on a roller coaster nice relaxed grip enough to keep the pad nice and flat now now the product is spread I'm going to pull the trigger push the button in this is I started and stopped the machine on the panel this way I'm not spreading product and causing more work for myself and clean up time and also you see this ridge here whenever you've got a ridge like this in the paint always work up to it never over it that's because that's by far the least amount of paint on the car so if you just go up to it on either side it's going to detail that edge and without you having to physically go over it whenever you do compound if you if you are left with a bit of a cloudy haze that's fine then compound will most of the time will leave a cloudy haze that's why you then move on to your polishing stage to refine the paint so at this point we're just reviving the next step with the polish is when we're going to refine and get that real enhancements of gloss and clarity of paint when detailing cars understanding that not every panel is going to be the same now we started on this side and even moving across to the other side of bonnet we've been noticing a few things that we saw at the start that we thought we would wait until we got to this side to address with you guys now you see we've got these little kind of patches here now understanding that it's quite old paint there's a lot of there's a fair few kind of signs of age and defects in the paint now these these patches here are kind of I don't know what they are I don't know if it's thin lacquer I don't know if it's a quick blowing that someone's used anything like that now if you're never sure about an area of car just don't work on it what we're going to be doing is we're going to be working around these just because I'm not 100% sure on what's going to happen if I do go over with a compound the pad we're just going to use some gentle approaches to make the areas look as good as possible but just shows you that you know not every panel is the same even half the panel of this was completely different one side to the other it's just being cautious and and just knowing when when's enough to know you know it's making the best of what we have position myself so we've revived the paint using the compound now I want to start refining it using our ultimate polish now we're going to set it down to a yellow polishing pad so this is super soft so I don't have to do my scrunchy bt upy thing but what I will do is still prime it because it's still a working product we're still going to do a few passes with this because we really want to enhance the gloss and refine that finish so again I'm going to shake up the bottle right to the pad now the biggest thing we've polishing and compounding is taking it off straight away it's not a wax so once you've worked an area with a polish take it straight off don't don't let it cure like a wax it's not going to do anything wrong for the paint it's just going to become a bit tougher to take off and we want to save a bit of time we want to get we want to get a better finish rather than just slaving over the product so we were talking about the hazing earlier and that you get from compound you don't always get it but if you do this polish can really refine that finish and get the real enhancement of gloss now we mentioned earlier about expanding work surface area so when I was compounding I did this section here on it but when I'm polishing I can move it up to doing this whole section on its own it's not because we're not overworking the surface so again cables over my shoulder I'm going to stamp out the area I want to work I'm going to set the speed to the slowest on machine and spread again I'm not worried if it goes on the plastics it's just going to wipe straight off so as you can see here we've done with this well in deeper removal we now want to move on to the waxing and polishing between three eight and four eight so like four I'm going to go slap bang in the middle of those two those two settings I'm still going to do my hashtag but because the machine is moving slower I can move quicker because we're not overworking the surface we're backing off we're now just kind of gently massaging the surface so my my arm movements are going to be a bit quicker because the machine is moving slower so again no pressure on the machine just enough to keep it nice and flat and aware of it. Each procedure change your towel so for compounding I was using the supreme shine microfiber towel because I don't want to keep spreading compound and oily products on the surface I've now moved on to our finishing towel which is a freshly cleaned towel again take it straight off detail face so for the eagle eye viewers and people like myself that are obsessed with detailing and paint and you'll notice that we do have some spots in the paint like this now unfortunately these are underneath the clear coat it's a chemical reaction there's nothing we can physically do about that to remove them so what we're doing is making the most of what we can do so that's removing the scratches and swirls now in our bay it's very magnified and you see a lot more than you would outside so if you can get a look in you know seventy eighty percent in the bay outside it's going to look stunning so if you do see stuff like this and you know you're working at the surface you just can't take them out unfortunately it might be under the paint there's nothing you can do about it now with all the paints we don't know the history of the paint we don't know who's painted it or someone you know feels like from the factory but what we're doing is what we can do and that's removing the scratches and swirls so we've revived the paint using the compound and the burgundy pad we've refined it using the yellow pad and the ultimate polish now we're going to be hand waxing so we've we've put the gloss in there we've enhanced the paint now we want to protect it so we're going to be using the ultimate paste wax this does come in a liquid form as well if you want to use the liquid and with a machine or by hand that's fine the pasting liquid both perform in the same exact way myself i like to use a paste wax i kind of like that kind of hand finish using a paste wax so what we'll do nice clean pad i'm going to pinch the top of the pad like this place it on the wax now all i'm going to do is turn it half a turn this is going to prime the pad which means that we can cover a nice surface area without having to top it up now only ever top up the pad when you start seeing gaps in the wax don't move on to the next panel think i need to top up the pad you don't want to overload the surface with too much wax you want to barely see it on the surface each process of priming the pad or priming the surface we're going to do exactly the same with the wax so i'm going to draw three lines you'll notice that i've expanded the work surface area again so i can do this whole section now in one pass that's not a problem now because i put these three lines in when i go over get over it with the pad is going to top it up which means we're going to get a nice even spread of wax no pressure on the pad just a few fingers to keep it nice and flat nice tight circles and as you can see you should barely see it on the surface so the reason i've gone for the ultimate wax is because it's a fully synthetic wax which means it hazes to a to a clear now this means if you've got a dark metallic um or any metallic in general the the synthetic wax will make that flak underneath pop on the flip side if you have a dark card it'll give it a real nice wet that's the reason i'm using the fully synthetic ultimate wax on this paint didn't see it wax is the only product we're going to let dry on the surface this is so it can really bond to the paint and give itself some give itself some protection give the paint some real good protection previously on the compounding polishing we've removed them straight away with the wax we're going to let it cure a common question we get is how long does the wax take to cure unfortunately it's a bit of a how long is a piece of string scenario it depends on the humidity the temperature of the day but what i tend to find is if i start at the bonnet and make myself round the car by the time i get back to the bonnet it's normally time to take off but if you ever unsure just swipe the surface if that swipe is greasy like that it means it's not ready to come off yet if it's clear it means it's really it's all good it's fully cured and ready to come off and always make sure again different process different towels this is a fresh clean finishing towel to remove that wax so my final touch for any kind of paint preparation or show prep we'll always be using the ultimate detail now this as much as it does boost the gloss it also makes sure you get a nice street-free finish and remove any kind of leftover residues from the wax so it's just a great finishing touch for any kind of paint preparation or show prep on the car and also when you're at a car show as well especially if it's an indoor one you can go around the detailer to make sure you get those fingerprints like dust off there and also just really boost the gloss and enhance the protection so now we've gone through the processes of what we're going to be doing on the car I'm going to crack on and I've got a full day ahead of making sure the whole car looks exactly like the the other side of the bonnet does so I'm going to crack on with that and let Patrick do whatever he's doing thanks