 Hi, it's my hand. Hey, everybody. Welcome back to 3D Hangouts. My name is Noel Ruiz. I'm a designer here at Adafruit. Joining me every week is my brother Pedro Ruiz. Good morning, everybody. Pedro has creative tech here at Adafruit. Every week we're here to share three printed projects featuring electronics from Adafruit. Yeah, that's right. This is a show we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects. Hello, everybody. It is Wednesday, February 14th, 2020, or we're doing episode 431. Happy Valentine's Day, everybody. We're hanging out in the Discord server. If you'd like to join us, you go to discord.gg slash Adafruit. We're hanging out in the live broadcast chat channel. We're going to shout out folks that are watching live. We're streaming on Facebook, YouTube, Twitch, and ex formerly known as Twithaw. Pedro. I'm getting lost in the tabs, but here we go. Shoutouts to Jim Hendrickson, Squid.jpg, Gary Z hanging out in the Adafruit Discord server. And on YouTube, we're hanging out there as well. And the other places, I said. Let's see on YouTube. Yeah, YouTube chat. Good morning. We've got Kinger North, we've got Bob Pear, Fleece, and Cavendome. Shoutouts to the awesome looking designs, he says. Cool. Yay. I got a question from Bob real quick. We were looking at this. I think you're going to have to contact that one if that's not loading. Support. You can email support at Adafruit.com. Our support engineers can assist you in all of the questions you might have with hardware. Yeah, they're pretty quick too in responsive. So definitely check out support at Adafruit.com for all your technical questions. This sounds like we might need the board swapped though, but that's pretty fast. Cool. All right. All right, I'm going to take a look at Adafruit.com slash free and see what kind of deals are going on this week. Free stuff. If your order is $99 or more, you get a free PCB coaster with a golden Adafruit logo. If your order is $149 or more, you'll get the free PCB coaster plus native fruit, KB2040. That's the lovely dev board with the RP 2040 chip, stem QT port, tons of GPIO, and a pro micro format. If your order is $199 or more, you get the KB2040, the PCB coaster, and free UPS ground shipping for continental us only. And if your order is $299 or more, you get the free shipping, the KB2040, the PCB coaster, and a free circuit playground express Adafruit.com slash free for all the details. These get automatically added to your cart. No need for coupons with that. But on top of that, we have a coupon code for today, 10% off your total order clock time. We do appreciate your orders as it supports everybody here at Adafruit. And that is the freebies. I'm posting that all in the chats. Page was posting links. I'm hanging out. I know what time it is. It's 1104 p.m. Eastern time. What time is it? It's clock time. Where's the code? Clock time. All right, so this week, oh, man, I got to manage windows here. There we go. Let me flip that around. All right. All right, this week is a 3D printed mid-century modern design clock with a 1.2-inch 7-segment LED display powered by a Feather RP2040 running circuit Python code. It's a collab project with Liz Clark. You can change the time using the rotary encoder on the side here, press and hold, and you go into edit mode. A little dot here lets you know that you are editing the hour. If you click again, it'll switch the dot to the lower half of the screen, and that means you're editing the minutes. And you use the rotary encoder to change the hour or the minutes so you can rotate it back and forth. And then you notice there's another dot up here. What's that other dot mean? Well, it means it is p.m. or a.m. If there's a dot, it means it's p.m. And if there's no dot, it is a.m. It is a 12-hour clock. But you can change the 24-hour clock you like and then the circuit Python code. So let me fix the time because I changed it. Go back to hours. It is 11.05. And what I forgot to mention is it has a real time clock module. It's the DS3231, which you may have remembered from yesterday's product pick of the week from JP. It was a half off. All of the components are connected together with stem QT cables, making it a kind of a no solder project, which is pretty cool. The rotary encoders now come pre-soldered, which is really nice. And I think the only thing you will have to solder is the LED display. So this is the 1.2 inch LED display. And we currently have two versions, one that's red and another one's yellow. Pedro, you have the yellow version. Did you get Joe? Do a little swap here. And this looks a little red. Yeah, it looks a little bit different there. But it is yellow. You can see in the learn guide photos, it comes out very nice. Mine actually looks more yellow than yours. How funny. But in any way, you can print the 3D printed parts in any color. Yours looks a lot more kind of, I don't know, future kind of colors. It's got that kind of glitter black, dark purple, a little bit more masculine. I've got these fun mint green and orange. And then we have these legs here that get attached to the bottom that kind of give it this cool angle. And I have them printed in this kind of coffee brown and you have them in that purple. Very cool. One of the things we used to make the display look really nice is these gel filters to kind of soften, not really soften. What would you say it does? It kind of polarizes the LED so they look a little bit more legible. Not a little bit a lot more legible. So you can see Pedro just popped his face plate off. And you can see it's a huge difference. I think most clocks that have these seven-segment displays probably have some sort of filter to... There's no way you can make that. Yeah, that looks awful. You can't read it. Even not looking it through a webcam, it really is hard to see without the gel filter. You can pick those up from Amazon or other stores. You can get them in different colors and you can cut them to size with scissors or hobby knife. But yeah, that was really important to get that in there because otherwise the photos would be very hard to get. So that's kind of the project in a nutshell. Really good example of how you can use the RTC module to display time on these seven-segment displays. We really didn't want it to be an internet clock, mainly because sometimes the internet goes down and it's kind of nice to have a clock that isn't dependent on the internet. And we didn't have a project that was in CircuitPython on the Adafruit Learn system that used that real-time clock module in CircuitPython. I think we have one in Arduino from JP a couple years back, but this one all on CircuitPython and it's all using the latest StemAQT enabled electronics. I have it powered through USB-C, so you can actually use a battery if you'd like with a non-off switch since the feather has built-in battery charging or you could use a USB battery bank like Peter has there. I have mine plugged into a wall adapter, but that's pretty much the gist of it. It's just a nice looking simple minimalistic clock. Hold on, CircuitPython. Yeah, real quick. Question or just comment from Calvadoom saying that that blue color looks like a Weller soldering iron. Yeah, yeah, this is a I think it's called Mint Green from Hatchbox. So they make some pretty good filaments. I'm using the Hatchbox filament. I think Peter is using the every one filament for the darker tones. Yeah, I see the glitters there. Yeah, everything snap fits. There's no supports. And then a follow-up question here. Does the clock design allow for a speaker? There's plenty of room in the clock for adding a speaker, maybe even like a one-by-four NeoKey or a panel mounted button. There's definitely room in there for a speaker for sure. Yeah, it's a good starting point. Like if you want to add features to it, there's plenty of room in there for some more components. Yeah, definitely inside here. You have your mounting holes up there. Or even down here, there's plenty of room still available. Yeah, and again, there's room for a battery as well. So if you want to put like one of those 1200, I think 1200 or 2200 milliamp lipo batteries, the cylindrical ones, those work pretty well. Yep, so definitely upgradeable. Like we say in the video, it's perfect for upgrading and adding, plusing it up, however you would like. Yeah, if you do want to add sound, I would recommend the Feather PropMaker RP2040 because it has built-in I2S amplifier. So you get some nice audio out and it has screw block terminals. It'd be easy to like just connect those up. Yeah, yep. Or if you want a talking clock, we also have Liz's Adibot talking clock, which she did last year, I think in December, which will tell you what the time is with the Adibot's voice. Maybe you can mash it together. That'd be kind of cool, huh? All right, let's take a look at the learning guide. We'll kind of browse through a little bit. So it looks like we have everything in stock except the display. If you ever want to get notified when these things are back in stock, there's always a little sign up on the side here at a stock. You can enter email and get notified when these are back in stock. This particular product comes with the LED display. Is the yellow one in stock? Let's take a look. If you scroll down, you'll see recommended products and here's the yellow one. This one is also out of stock. There is a buy on Digi-Key button. Let's see if it's available on Digi-Key. Our partner is at Digi-Key. Let me click on it. They have six in stock. Get it from Digi-Key. They have fast shipping and they're our partners. So you can purchase from Digi-Key if you'd like. Yeah, it says it can ship immediately. That means they have it on hand. Pretty cool. How about that? So these aren't stock at Digi-Key. Pick those up. We like Digi-Key. The feathers in stock, the RTC is still in stock. If you got one yesterday, you got it half off. So congrats on that. You will need a CR 1220 quencil battery. That's how it is able to keep track of time when the device is shut off. That's how the RTC works. Other than that, you've got cables and the rotor encoder. The rotor encoder comes soldered already with the rotor encoder itself. Those are out of stock, unfortunately, but you can get the PCB breakout with no encoder and buy them separately. So you have options there. But yeah, recently these were added to the store with them pre-soldered on. Very nice. I think that's about it. Definitely speeds up workflow. It is a little tricky to solder those guys on. We had to set up the little clamps for it. Handful of screws. I have them all listed here. So if you want to pick those up, you can get them from get assortment packs from all sorts of different places. And then I linked these light diffuser gel overlays from Amazon, but you can search for them elsewhere. They come in different colors. The one I'm using is this kind of smoky black. Yeah, that's the one I used, but I suppose you could use any of these other ones and they would be okay too. But they're meant for like a joke. Yeah, they're meant for film. Yeah, that's exactly why we picked these up. So we were lucky that we had these lying around. Yeah, I picked out a pack, a couple years back. It's called T-Black. Look at that. Yeah. And these come in like 11 by 8 inches. So not too big. You should be able to cut them. Okay, so I think that's all the products. The circuit diagram. We put this together using the fritzing software. If you want to create your own, you can download fritzing. And then we have a link to the Adafruit library for fritzing parts on GitHub. So you can get those up. That's how we put them together. Pretty straightforward. Shemik connectors to connect everything together. Pretty nice. For the CAD files, the STLs are oriented to print as is, but you could always reorient them. If you're printing them in something like Resin or something, you might want to do that. Add some supports for Resin. But if you're doing the FDM style 3D printers, they're ready to go. Just choose your colors. We also have a step file of the whole design assembly. So if you want to remix it, you can import it into FreeCAD or Blender and add all sorts of different modifications to it. Fusion 360 has all the sketches and parametric timelines. You can update those a little bit easier. You can download these separate parts like the feather or the display or the rotor encoder or the DS3231 real-time clock module from our GitHub Parts repo. I got a link for that there. Those are handy for importing into your CAD package. The biggest part is going to be the case and that comes out to 140 millimeters by 66 millimeters by 80 millimeters. So just be aware, you kind of need a minimum build volume of that to be able to print it out. Otherwise, you can send it off to like PCBWay if you want to get it printed in like Resin or Resin. They have nylon printing as well and maybe even CNC if you want to pay the price. Get it in some aluminum. That'd be kind of cool. But that's it for the CAD stuff. Our next page walks through the Staling Circuit Python. If you haven't done it yet, there's how to do it. There's a whole page on how to update your board to the latest version of Circuit Python. Shout out to Liz for putting together the coding page. You can use the download project bundle to get all the libraries and dependencies for this project. It's using the DS3231 library, the library for the LED display driver, which is the HT16K33. The debounce library is used, I think, for doing a long press, for going into edit mode, and then the seesaw library for the rotary encoder and I2C stuff. The main thing you want to look at is changing the minimum and maximum brightness. One of the cool features about this is that the display can have different brightnesses depending on the time of day. If you want it to be not so bright during night, so you're not blinded at night, you can turn that down all the way down to like 0.01 or 1 for max brightness during the day. That's how it's set up here. You just want to change that how you like. It is set up on 24-hour time, so just be aware of that. When you initially set up your real-time clock module, you want to update the line here, which is timed out struct. You'll want to change the year, the month, the date, and just make that to your current time. Turn it on to true on the first time, and then turn it to false when you have the time set. And that's pretty straightforward. Lots of comments here, so you can change it up if you like. And then Liz has a nice code breakdown of all the different spots. For example, if you wanted to change it from being a 12-hour to 24-hour, you could update that part here where it's doing the whole clock conversion. Next page is the wiring, which is pretty much plug everything together. We do have a product guide on soldering the LED display to the LED backpack breakout. It comes with some pins. There's only one way to put it in correctly, so just install it and solder those pins. And you'll want to trim those leads short so they're not poking through any of the other components. So I started off with the... Oh, wow. I did not. So close to the stem. Oh, you didn't trim your pins? Yeah, I did not. I guess I'll put those to the encoder. It's not touching, but it's pretty close. Remember? Well, if you're in a rush, don't trip the... I thought they would. Yeah. Anyway, I guess it's optional. You can trim or not. Let's see. The coin cell battery gets installed to the RTC module. There's a nice symbol for positive. It's facing up. I think you can connect it differently, but for the StemicAT cables, I went with this orientation. So if you want to follow that, you got the photo there to reference. The LED breakout has a dedicated mount that only fits one way. I'm using M2 side screws and hex nuts to attach that together, but it gets attached to the back of the display instead of the front. That's just kind of the way it worked out. And then there's a dedicated PCB mount for the Feather and the RTC module. Those get attached directly to the built-in standoffs of the PCB mount with these M2 5 screws. You just kind of create the threads with the screws themselves, so pretty clean that way. And then we have everything connected. You want to cut your gel, your filter down to size. I have a recommended size here. It's about 5.2 inches by two inches. Give it a take. Oh, I think it's easier to trace that line. Yeah, you trace the front cover plate. That's a good way to do it, too. That's pretty much what I did. I just took the dimensions from CAD and threw it in there. But yeah, you could use that as a good straight edge, I guess. The first thing you want to do is put the, once all the mounts are secured, you can fit the LED display through the casing. And then that way you can line it up with the built-in standoffs and those get attached with those M3 screws. Make sure the orientation is correct. You can use the silk screen, the lettering on the silk screen, the labels, as a point of reference to know which way is up, the right way up. And then the next part is to panel mount the rotary encoder pretty straightforward. The rotary encoders come with a hex nut and a washer. You want to install those properly. And then the rotary knob just gets press-fitted onto the shaft of the rotary encoder. And then depending on if you want the base legs or not, you'll want to position the PCB mount with the mounting holes lined up to the four mounting holes on the bottom of the casing. Hold those in place, and then you want to sandwich in between the casing, the base legs, and the PCB mount. Because we're actually using the same screws to secure the base legs to the casing to the PCB mount. So it gets sandwiched together with these M3 screws. So you kind of need the longer screws. These are 10 millimeter long screws. But it's kind of neat that you can reuse those same four screws for the base legs. I found it to just be kind of an easy way to kind of attach those base legs instead of doing them individually. So that's what I got going on there. And then you use some hex nuts to just kind of keep it in. Although I didn't, to be honest, I didn't use hex nuts. Did you use hex nuts, Pedro? No, I didn't. And I was able to, like you said, create the threads right into there. Yeah, so whether or not you want it, you know, hex nuts or not, it's optional. And then the back cover is kind of one of the last parts. It only goes one way, because there's these nice fillets that kind of key and register the parts together. There's only one hole, and that's for the USB-C port. And then once the back cover is on, and you can just lay that precut gel filter over the LED display. And then the faceplate just press fits. And it should have a nice tight fit. And that's it. That's the whole build. Man, what a difference. Here's a photo of the gel filter off and on. It's like night and day. Oh, yeah. And like something we were saying, it looks like it turned it pink. It does look pink. It's mainly because the flash or the lighting or whatever, it just makes it pink. Oh, the color correction too. Yeah, the color correction too. And I don't have a reference of what that pink really looks like, so I just took a guess on what and matched all the things together. Yeah, I suppose you could use one of the color gel filters to kind of make it more pink. Maybe like a yellow tint or something would make the red look more, because if you color mix red with yellow, I think you get pink. Anyway, there's a usage page that lets you know how to change the time. We tend to do usage pages just as a reference. Like, how do I use the thing once it's all built? So, yeah. I already did a demo, but you press and hold down the rotary encoder for, I think, a second. And then the LED display, the characters will start blinking. Now, it's, you know, you're in edit mode. You're editing the hour first and you press once to switch it to the minute the minutes, and then you can use the rotary encoder again to change the minutes. And then press and hold to save and exit. I haven't used a clock, a digital clock in a while, but I think that's how they work, right? Yeah. I don't think, I remember having one like as a kid, but I think it had buttons. I don't think it had a, and there was always be like a set time button that you would hold down. And sometimes it was more complicated than using, I don't know. I feel like this is more intuitive with the rotary encoder. Oh, definitely. All right. Quick comment from Connor asking, would it be difficult to add a proximity sensor of some time to the clock? I'm guessing probably in like some around this area, so when you walk close, it'll turn on the display and then turn it off. Oh, that's interesting. After a couple, like a minute or so after not seeing someone. Yeah. Cool addition to add. Yeah, that sounds fun. I would, yeah, maybe up on the top, there's more space there for it, for a proximity sensor. Yeah. Cavaldoom is saying a yellow would remove blue, which is less pink. That's my color theory. Yeah, my bad. So I guess use a blue filter to make it more pink. Anyway, the pack has all sorts of colors. So mix and match them if you want. Yeah, you can try them out. Mix them together. Jim Hendrickson has a really good point that the digital clocks, the biggest pain about them was that you couldn't only set them forward. You can go back and forth between setting the clock. And that's true. Remember that you'd like, you know, hold it down to have it go fast and then it'd like go past it because it's going too fast. You're like, oh, no, I gotta do it again. Yeah. I think the easiest is on our oven where it's literally you push the clock and then just push up or down. There's no holding down anything. Yeah. Yeah. I remember it being a challenge to change the time in our cars in the 1990s. Oh, yeah. People are like, how do I do it again? Well, I hold it down. Yeah. Changing clocks is one of my pet peeves, says Andy Calaway. Well, not with this one. Very encoders, especially ones with a button, are very, very versatile for lots of things really. Yeah, I agree. One of my favorite things is in the Discord chat there, if you scroll up a little bit, DJ Devin has these rubber feet that he used. I'm going to point those out if you want to. Oh, yeah, these are cool. Yeah, you can always add your own rubber feet as well. Yeah, that's a whole. You know, I originally did have just rubber feet with the self-adhesive on it originally. But yeah, I like the angle there. What am I going to add these like kind of fun legs? Yeah. Because I was looking at some mid-century modern furniture and I was like, you know, they got these cool angles. Maybe I can add those. Yeah, you can even add those on the bottom of these feet, huh? Make it all nice and grippy, although. They might be a little bit too slim. Like it doesn't slide as much. Yeah, right. Yeah, I thought that was interesting. The center of gravity is pretty low. What does Deweyster saying? Does it bother anybody that the pre-mode tech of the day, just a few short years ago, is now so confusing to us? Well, that's this week's projects. If you want to pick up any of the stuff, remember, DigiKey has some stuff in stock. You can use a coupon code to get 10% off using the coupon code. Clock time. I know it is time for what are you prototyping this week? Pedro has a Star Wars-looking Rebels. Yeah, so this is going to be the shoulder bot, which is pretty much a servo-controlled camera. So here's what we've got so far for that prototype. I have it on a tripod, so Brett can do some coding on it. It'll be a lot more easier than having tried and balance it on your shoulder. So it's a tripod version for now. We're going to update the design. So it's Minerva the owl. So it'll have the robot one-eyed bird that'll look around like that. So what we have here is, I want to call this like a pref board version of it since you have all these abilities to attach stem of boards for additional sensing. You have all of your port openings on all the sides right here. It's actually how the Neopixel ring is attached to the A0 port on the Memento. And then the servo, I'm assuming, is going to plug into the A1 port. And then you've got your stemma. So if you want to, again, I think there's room for like two or three of the 0.9 inch stemma boards so I can attach to there. Everything a snap fit. So it can all be disassembled pretty easily. So if you don't need the tripod portion here, you can have that. See how the servo is attached to that. Little bit of intricacy in the terms of the way the horn is sandwiched in to the quarter inch three-fourths, three-eighths by quarter inch tripod adapter. So that is sandwiching in the servo horns that these guys come with. So that's attached on there very nice. And there's the screw also that is holding the horn in place. And yeah, so that'll go around, pan around and Brent has the face detection code working. So when it'll detect a face, it'll light up the LEDs from red, yellow to green when it spots a face and then take a picture. So you'll have the button on the back. So if you want to do the display. So you have believe to get all that and go ahead and actually turn it on. It has the Arduino code on there, but I'm just using it to show that you do actually have quite a bit of, it's called the view angle on here. Yes. So you're not actually blocking that. That was one of my fears since it's pointing so far out that you wouldn't block stuff. But yeah, it looks like it's not structuring the view at all. So it looks good. Cool. So yeah, the default Arduino one. Oh, there it is. Yeah, yeah. They probably does not have the controls for the LEDs. I'll go ahead and put on the, the bin file that Brent has available. Yeah, so probably I didn't get it in case until last night. Right. Brent recently published his guide on kind of getting the facial detection and recognition on the Memento working. So folks want to play around with it now. I think the only addition is that the servo isn't, you know, a part of this project, but that's for, that's for Pedro's project. You get a bin file and then you use the, the ESP web tool to upload the bin file. And then he has a usage page and how it works. You can see here that it kind of draws a box and it detects your nose, eyes and your, your mouth. And then you get some overlay text that says whether it detects the face or not. So that's kind of cool. Got these nice gifts here to let you know kind of what the UI looks like. Here's the light working. So it does use the new pixel ring. Or if you have access to the front facing camera plate that has the built-in LED ring, adder this. But yeah, cool. I'm definitely going to try it out later this week. And then I'm just now kind of walking through the, I know, I've been in the woods. Exactly. But I guess there's some configurable stuff, code history and explanation. This project is an example written by me, no dev for expressive systems. So there's a GitHub repo. And then he kind of walks through all the different bits here for doing the face detection. Pretty cool. So this will be our first kind of robot that can actually detect faces. That's pretty cool. I think later down, we'll add crazy features like sound effects and actually track maybe. But right now, it's just like really want to get a base feature set where it's like, okay, we can detect the face. Let's light up a new pixel ring to say it's green if you detect the face or red if it's not detected. Just really basic. Yeah, that's why I'm releasing this design as well. Since he did say he's going to split it up in two different guides, so maybe we should do the same thing. Because this works very well as just a desktop dev board. And then the case for it too, just because it has the ability to have all those expansion point accessories. Yeah. So this is like, oh, wow, this is why I didn't start on the owl. I was like, let me finish this. Yeah, it's a good prototype-y kind of design. That's modular as well. You can add different parts to the top or the bottom of the case. Yeah, yeah, modular. It's a lot like the doorbell project where it's like this sleeve design that prints up right. You figure out the snaps. And I like this version actually gives you access to the display and the onboard buttons. Because the doorbell, you know, didn't really. Yeah, really, you don't need to. I mean, it's a completely different functionality for it. It's supposed to hang outside. This is supposed to be like on your desk or where you can have access to it to be able to interact with it as well. And then upgrade your test code for what we're going to use it later down the line, the shoulder bot. So you make sure all that works before I update the case for it. Yeah, I think. Yeah, everything is accessible to the SD card, all the ports. And then we do have the 420 milliamp hour battery inside here. But because we have all this space, you know, you can have a much bigger one. Yeah. And I like how well, 100. Yeah, all the additional space in here, nothing's wasted. So we're using all the wires. So I mean, you are going to have to cut this to add the three port JST to connect it. But you're saving and, you know, having to shorten wires. We can just coil it up and have it inside there or have your battery be inside there. So you're did you need a question? Did you need any supports for the casing? Any what? Any support material for the casing or does this print without any supports? Something needed supports. Oh, yeah. The only thing they need supports is the base plate for. Oh, really? I want to. Yeah, I should have grabbed it. But everything else you have prints without supports, the prints straight up. Yeah. You can see here some of the design considerations just making sure that the snaps, where to put the snap on each part of the object so that you don't have to print with supports. Yeah. And then you have a bunch of little areas to have like the cables coming out of. So on both sides. So you can pass through your stemma. Oh, the stemma can actually go through the grills here as well. Yeah. Yeah, that's good. Whatever position you might want. So yeah, nice little way to pretty much for testing and for. Yeah. Lots of ventilation. A little bit grits. Yeah. And over here. The right, yeah. The vents printed nice like that because they're. Yeah, me too. I don't know. They're probably 12 or 15 millimeters across. So that's a pretty good active cooling on the printer. Yeah. The all the printers had turns printing all these parts. I'm trying to figure everything. So the smart pro or the the SP cruelty SP crew. You know, they all printed parts and everything fits together. Cool. Cool. Um, yeah. The base plate is the only part that needs support material and only for like a millimeter. And I'll show it off next week. Why you need supports because of the way the overhangs are for the way that it sandwiches the servo horn. Yep. All right. We got some comments. DJ Devon saying really cool. Great design. Thank you. Is there a guide on doing this with Circa Python and Adafruit IO or currently only for Whippersnapper? This is for. If you're talking about the face detection, it's like an Arduino project. Yeah. Because like the support is only through the expressive stuff. Squid.JPEG really love the mounting slots. Yeah. I don't know the name of the aesthetic, but it's very raw with the expose. Yeah. I was thinking kind of like a rebels star wars because like in that universe, like everything's like kind of a kit bash together. It's like a little little engine here and a little bit of that. So that's kind of having the screws expose, I think helps out with that too. Or in the grass as well. Yeah. Very kind of grungy. I should probably make the this or the squirrel. I don't know. I was going to say make it compatible with the Stemma spacing as well so you could mount something here. But no, it's Marfa. I think it's better for aesthetics. Yeah. Well, this one's supposed to be for aesthetics. This fake like grill, whatever those bumps are. I think it's supposed to be like a radiator for heat. So it disperses the heat out from these. Yeah. If it was metal. DJ Devon is asking if the 2,500 mAh battery is the biggest single cell diachromatic lipo battery that heater food carries. Looks like it would fit in the top compartment. Yeah. I don't know. Do you think it would fit? I mean, you can just elongate this. Okay. Should fit. Yeah. I think it's too wide. I might be trying to search for it. There it is. Yeah. It's a little bit too wide. I think the the 1200 might work better. But yeah. Mm-hmm. But yeah, I think that's the biggest single cell that we carry. The next one up is the 6,600, right? Yeah, but that's that's not the way soft. Yeah, harder. We have a bottom. We have the category for all the lipos. Pretty sure the 2500 is the biggest one. Oh, yeah. We have 2000. That's cool. Forgot about that one. It's less. It's a little bit more slim. The 1200 is about the same size and about half the. Yeah, I like these because they're nice and rigid. Mm-hmm. They're not soft. They're kind of a little bit more hard shell. Anywho. Good stuff. All right. And that's what you're prototyping. Yes, this will be our shoulder button. Two weeks, something like that. The shoulder button about three or a month. So it took me a while to get everything mounted on there. Let's see how this guy is all wired in. That's where you got to get the end file on there. It just snaps right in. Yeah. Yeah. So next week, you'll have the sum code to play with. Yeah. It's just like the big line. No, I'm going to do it. I'm just going to make sure we can do some stuff. Cool. Yep. So I don't think we'll have... It won't be completed for next week, but I'll release it the week after. Yeah. Have the clock in view. Okay. Let's move on to the next segment with Time Lapse Tuesday. Every Tuesday, Pedro finds a fun... Timely... ...took it. That's funny. Declan Page is a three-year-old. So I have a Time Lapse video. Let's play it now to celebrate. What are we celebrating now? There are some rays and sharks. This is the blob typus. So it's the blobfish and an octopus offspring. And it's supposed to be the Valentine's Day. It's supposed to be the Valentine's Day. So it's a printed place design. Flexible appendages. I suppose are each of them, am I right? Or is there any? Yeah. Two, four, six. Wait a minute. Two, four, six, seven. So it's the second place. It doesn't even have eight tentacles. So this was designed by... That's the alternate base. Yeah. So if you guys don't know, this is what... It's supposed to be modeled after a fish that they call the blobfish. That usually does not look like this underwater. The reason why his nose and his whole face just puffs up is because of the pressure change, bringing him up from below to the top of him. And it looks like that. And they just called it the blobfish. But I like the... I like the one with the tongue sticking out just because of the way that it's designed. So it doesn't require a support instead of a 45-degree angle. So I thought that was cool. It looks like some sort of cartoon from Bob's Burger. Doesn't it? It does. The basic features that we're having. The design of it. Right? Yeah. Kind of like it's coughing. So the most weirdest Valentine's gift that you can get. Yeah. Well, you know, 84 likes to keep it weird. I think BT would do. So this design is like big over easy. I'm walking on a clothes duty. It is a free download. You can download it for free. Two different versions. It prints like that. Print in place with the seven... Count them. Seven legs. There's another version here where it has like two legs. The legs are hilarious. It's hilarious. It's like kind of doing this sort of dance. And I suppose you could paint it. Yeah. Reminds me of Crumb from Aria Monsters. Remember Crumb? Oh, yeah, yeah. He would hold his eyeballs though. But each color. And the blobby nature. Reminds me of Crumb. Anyway, free design. Check it out. Support the design on Patreon if you like these models. Yeah, so another cool design part about it is the spacing between the little rings here that makes it flexible. It has a nice spacing, so it should not fuse in even the most uncalibrated printer. Yeah. So that should work across all printers. What did Declan think of it when he showed him? What did he say? What was his reaction? I posted the video of him reacting to it. They see weird stuff all the time, so definitely nothing that affected them. That's funny. It wasn't scared. I don't know. No. I don't like it. Cool. Good. Good filament choice. You know, pink. Yes, the legs version is killing me. It's a squid. Yeah. Sorry. I know I should have done that one. That's funny. Yeah. Seven tentacles. Yeah. Except the pus. Yeah. All right. Very strange, very weird. We like it. Two up-puss. The two-legged one. Two up-puss. All right. That's the time lapse of the week. Very strange. Free to download. Try it out. Next up, we're going to do community makes next. So let's take a look at some community makes. First up, we have a dodecahedron posted up by Willy on printables. This is just a simple dodecahedron design that you can print with no supports. Lots of folks kind of print it out just because it kind of a, you know, kind of when you have a first printer, you want to do like a cube calibration test. You can print this out as a test to see how good your printer is or test different filaments out. Anyway, it's kind of a neat shape. So dodecahedron, if you're a fan. So you can print that out. Shout out to Willy for posting his make. Nice. All right. After that, we have a remix of the heat set press insert rig. So think of a user gene z22 posted up their thing. They have a nice description here. They were not happy with the counterweight mechanics, so they changed it to be an ID card system like solution. Okay. Constructed the holder and redesigned the original try bearing plate. And they use this ID holder that they linked to Amazon and it works fine. Printed on a cruelty ender s3 s1 pro. Very nice. I think there's more photos of it. Yeah. Oh, I see. So it kind of has a retractable ID badge mechanism. You know what I'm saying? Yeah, that's kind of cool. I've never seen, I haven't seen anyone do that before. So that's neat. Yeah, I've been wanting to get one for the printer, so it moves the wire out of the way. You know how it kind of, you know, Oh, yeah, that's a good idea. Yeah, it's good to reuse these kind of mechanisms. So that's a good idea. I haven't thought of that. Yeah, that's cool. Huh. Good job. All right. After that, we have another heat set insert. This is a custom mounting clamp for the solder. For the soldering iron has like a built-in OLED display. So this was posted up by random prints on printables. They said, what's time waiting for the hardware for me to build the Adafruit heat set press insert rig? I thought I would print all the parts I needed when I came across this brilliant design. It's the pin style clamp by Kimmel. Only thing I want to do is see the screen and remove the clamp pressure that would be on the screen. So this remix is born. Unfortunately, I haven't built my press yet. So the photos are a bit lackluster, but I will update it when I build it. Very cool. Yeah, love seeing different types of soldering irons used in this design. So it's nice to see some of the more modern soldering irons. They have like LED OLED displays. That's pretty cool. Looks like it's powered by USB-C. It's kind of neat. All right. After that, we have a make of... This was a make posted on Colts 3D by Jono Grant. Jono Grant made the Star Trek communicator build from a couple of years back now. It's all nice and painted. Excuse me. No need to print out the ST button holder. I did not need it. Tricky to get the top and bottom together, but eventually snap fit into place with some patience and no glue needed. A hand-painted silver trim on the outside trick to get the outside mesh cover to move up and down while still being affixed to the holder are two nails, one on each side. There are small holes that you can place the nails into. Hold the top cover. They painted the nails black. Oh, I used 175 filament. Yeah. Yeah. Well, they wanted nails. That works too. Whatever works. Yeah. This design is from like 2015 or something. It's pretty old. Yeah. It's ready to come back to life as soon as we get the new stuff. Yeah. This actually made phone calls. All right. This is a real phone. Yeah. There's a real SIM card inside there. Right. Unfortunately, 3G is no longer a thing. It worked with 3G. You remember buying a phone number, you had to get phone number, and there was a service that probably doesn't exist anymore? Yeah. No. We sold the SIM cards with the cell phone service phone up. Wow. Yeah. So the phone, maybe it was going to be. Coming back, she's been checking out the new module. So one of these days, we will revisit and remake a actual phone calling Star Trek communicator. Yeah. Yeah. Bunny the numbers program to Phil's phone. Did you design this in Maya or something? Or 1, 2, 3D? Oh, this is a fusion. No, this is a fusion. Oh, wow. Cool. I thought it would be. Yeah, because you built the CNC paths for the, because we used the metal. Oh, yeah. Great thing. You made the paths for the CNC, for the Bantam poles. Mm-hmm. Yeah, that's one. It's not the name anymore. No, it is. No, it is Bantam. Yeah. It used to be other mill. Other mill. That's what I was thinking. Oh, that's nice. Yeah. Back when it was called other mill. Now, I like the Bantam is burnt into my head, instead of other. Yeah. In the last project, we saved the last, best for last, this squid.jpg, he posted up their custom firmware for the ANO Fidget. NeoPixel project. Super awesome write up on 804playground.com. The code is available on GitHub, which you can download. You can either clone it or download the zip with all the library dependencies. Super awesome. This reads a lot like a native root learn guide. All the code is broken down. All the different modes are explained here. There's the spin, the bottle mode, or rainbow particle mode, power meter simulator mode, and the Simon says style memory sequence game. So I went ahead and tried it out, and I have it loaded on my Fidget device. Let me see if I can switch my camera and just kind of give a little demo of it. So here's the, our version uses the 24 NeoPixel ring. Squid.jpg version has a 16 NeoPixel ring, but it's adaptable. So I just turned it on. It starts off with one white LED, and this is the particle mode. So as you rotate, it accelerates. If you spin it faster, and then you can use the directional buttons. You want to full screen me? You can use the directional buttons to change the color of the background LEDs and the foreground LED. So like the particle that's kind of moving. So you can see this really nice color combo. And it's super responsive. So you can change the colors. You can rotate it backwards and get this really nice inertia kind of effect going on. And if you hold it, if you hold the select button down, it kind of reverses a little bit. If you press and hold down for a second, you'll switch to modes. So this is the rainbow particle mode. Rotate the rainbow as you rotate it. Press to get these kind of cool effects here. And then the directional buttons have these kind of directional kind of flashes going left and right. Super cool. The code is really nice and versus how where you can kind of change up the pin assignments and it kind of scales depending on how many pixels you have in your setup. You also make so you can use either the Stemma QT version of the ANO or the breakout version of the ANO. So it's really easy to kind of switch between those two in the code. Let's check out the next version. This is the battery simulator mode. Kind of has this nice. Yeah, it's super cool. And on top of that, you can change the colors of either end of this by pressing the directional buttons. So that's really cool. And then let's see the last mode. This Simon says the memory style game. So you have this kind of the memory style game. So you have this kind of pre game to start it. You'll want to press and hold on the green. And then it starts the game. It dims it. And then there's the memory. You have to match the pattern using directional buttons. So that that that that that that. Oh, I got it wrong. Yeah, very, very cool. Really, really cool. This really extends the the memory, the memory matching or the sorry, the fidget fidgeting. So very fun, really good use of the new pixels and the rotary encoder. So big shout out to squid.jpeg. Definitely check out their post on Adafruit Playground. You get a really nice breakdown of what he went through to make it do all the things. Excellent use. We love seeing it when folks like take our projects or any other project in this learning system and just like really make it expand that much. Yeah, that much better. So fun. Definitely update a page room for the kids. They're going to love it. Oh, yeah. I got to find it first. Yeah, you got to find it. They have it somewhere. Keep taking all the stuff. Very cool. So shout out. Something I want to say. Oh, squid says he added a late edition. It is motion blur. Check it out. It's a rainbow particle mode. There is now motion blur. Wow. Very cool. Yeah, I grabbed it yesterday evening. So if you just updated your GitHub, I'll have to try it out. Very cool. And then definitely folks, if you want a place to publish your projects, documentation, photos, definitely check out Adafruit Playground. It's kind of like a carbon copy of the Adafruit Learn system. So you have like a nice kind of editor for creating cool blog posts. And you'll get featured on the blog and all that stuff. So cool way to get here. And you have some of the functionality of the learning, like having the project bundle and things like that. And the code embeds. Yeah. I'm just having fun. That's the end of the show. Just playing with it. It's great that it picks firmware. Cool. Oh, he says you might already have the latest build. Yeah. If you got it. Yeah. It's really, really cool how all the different, like it's just, it's slowly pulsing, fading. That's a good way to kind of let the user know that you haven't started digging in yet. Yeah. The idle-ness of it is really cool. So fun. Yeah. Oh, failed one. I guess I can have a blast. Yeah. Super fun. All right. That is going to do it for the show. Don't forget. If you want to pick up anything from the Adafruit shop, you can use our 10% off discount code, clock time. And what else? Tonight. Oh, yeah. Yeah. You got another question? Yeah. Somebody's asking if we've done any work with the bracelets that they have at concerts. I think John was going to maybe poke at the LED bracelets that they got at the Taylor Swift concert. Right. Yeah. I think he had a discussion about it. I'm not sure if he took it apart or was talking about the protocol. I think he was working at it. Yeah. Yeah. So check out JP's workshop on Thursdays and look back at his playlist and see if there's some info that might interest you there. But tonight we have back-to-back shows starting off with Show and Tell starting at 7.30 p.m. Eastern Time. Hosted by Liz Clark. You can come by on the Discord server, get an invite link to the stream yard so you can join in. Love to see your stuff. And then at 8 p.m. Eastern Time is Ask Engineer with Mr. and Mrs. LaYada. We'll get some open source hardware news, some new products, INMPI, and more. Tomorrow is JP's product pick of the week. Wait, no, it's not. It's JP's workshop. Where is my... There it is. JP's workshop. It starts at 4 p.m. Eastern or 2 p.m. Pacific, I think. Am I right? Am I wrong? I don't know. Check out the Ad for Discord Showtimes. You can always use the Showtime code to get all the different listings. Friday's is a deep dive with Scott. Scott's back. I need to update this graphic. But sometimes it's Tim, a foamy guy who comes on. Friday is 2 p.m. Pacific or 5 p.m. Eastern to do a deep dive live stream. Sundays are from the desk of LaYada live streams. Mondays are Circuit Python Weekly. Community meetings. Tuesday is JP's product pick of the week. And then we're wrapping back around to Wednesday mornings with our show, 3D Hangouts. It's not Thursday. It's supposed to be a Wednesday. Geez. My old adedate, you know, my graphics are adedate now. All right, thank you, everybody, so much for joining us. This has been an Adafruit production. We'll see you tonight on Show and Tell. But until next week, remember to make a... Make a great day. We need to work on that. We need to synchronize ourselves. Bye, everybody.