 Alright, we had a lot of new products, so these, there's permutations of these, so you can talk about them. I'll just talk about these in general, because they're basically all the same. So we have these silicone molds for making your own keycaps. I really like the look of acrylic cast keycaps. Basically you get UV resin, I recommend, you can get two-part resin, but I don't recommend it. UV resin I found works much, much better, you just need a UV lamp to cure it. And then you can mix like glitter or color, or you can paint them, or you can sculpt them. So these molds are there to help you with that process, and they come in a variety of different sizes. So each one of them has four, at least, I mean at least these two, they have four 1U keycaps, those are kind of the standard keycaps. And then there's an extra key for like all the different, like not exact 1U, so there's 1.25U and 1.5U and 1.75 and 2, so like the alt and escape and capstock, whatever. There's a variety of them. Yeah, I kind of wish they would have had like a mold that has one of each, but that's just not how it worked. And space bar and these really long keys is also separate. But between these, you can find all the keycaps you want, maybe you only want to make some 1U keys. We're going to have a guide and video on how to use these, we're going to have some good tutorials on that. However, for now, I've linked in the product page to a great YouTube tutorial. But basically my tips are, yes, these are reusable. You really do want to use UV curing resin, even though it's a little bit more expensive. Don't put too much stuff in the resin or it won't cure like you want to make sure that's clear enough for the UV light to shine all the way through because the UV light itself is what cures it. And it's actually kind of fun. You just like design your own keycaps and they will snap onto any MX compatible switches. Oh, and then you also, the only other tip I have is when you put the top, the part that fits on top that has the stem, just make sure it's nicely centered because there's nothing keeping it centered. So you have to kind of visually center it. But you know, if you cure it two minutes later, you pop it out and then you can just keep reusing and remaking the molds as many times as you like. One fun thing you can do if you have like extra little electronic components that look really good. Yeah, I made one where I put like, I put like broken chips and stuff. Yeah, we put an RP2040 in it. And the other thing is this is a fun continuation of things you can do with your macro pad. Yes. Because that's what we have for them. Of course. All right, next up. All right, by request, we've had the two pin version of these quick wire joints. This is the three pin version. I'll show this on the overhead real fast because it's mostly a visual explanation. Inside, whoa, so close. Too close. Too close. Too close. Inside each one of these is a, hold on, a little spring. And when you press down, it opens the spring and you see you can then fit a wire inside of it. So these are, you know, we have like clampy style or crimp style connectors, but these are great if you're like, you're just a maker or you know, you just, you're just doing a project and you want to quickly connect some wires together and you don't mind that this is a little bit chunky. You can bolt it down. But here's the thing. It's just really easy to use and it's very friendly, but of course it's not waterproof or weatherproof. It's good for just like crafting together some projects. You can use it with stranded or solid coil, core wire. We have the two pin version and then people are like, we want the three pin version. We now have the three pin version. Next up. All right. Next up, some diodes. People are making keyboards and macropads and stuff. A lot of projects have diodes in them because they're diode matrixed and so people are like, hey, you have SM, you have through hole diodes. Can you stock SMT diodes? So here you go. It is 100 SOD123 1N4148 signal diodes. If you're putting together a PCB with some of our keyboard stuff, often times the only thing you need are the keyboard, you know, a PCB, which you get made, the switches and or sockets, which we stock and now diodes next up. Next up, we've got chalk switch sockets. So these go with the slim chalk switches, which I'm going to show in a moment. These are SMT sockets that you would solder onto your PCB and then it allows you to snap in and, you know, remove and replace without soldering, kale, chalk, chocolate style switches. So these look a lot like the MX sockets, which I'll, maybe I'll show real fast what those look like because these are, and these are not the chalk ones. These are the MX ones, but they look very similar. So you see here, this is like surface mount soldered on and then on the opposite side, you have a switch and then you can mechanically connect and disconnect it and it's nice and solid when it's plugged in, but you can also remove it and replace it. So good for people who like, they don't know if they want linear or clicky or like super clicky switches. However, the chalk switches, which look like this have different pinouts than the MX switches. And so you'll need these sockets for chocolate and they're not cross compatible with MX. Totally different panel. Okay. Next up. Okay. Speaking of chalk switches, here are some chalk switches. We've got two, we've got linear red and we've got clicky white and they're very similar. These are an alternative to Cherry MX compatible switches. I will say that they're harder to use because they are not compatible in almost any way. You can't use the same PCB layout. They have the pans are slightly different. You cannot use the same sockets because the pinouts are slightly different. You cannot use the same keycaps because they're slightly different. So yeah, let me go to the overhead and I'll compare. Okay. So this is a Cherry MX compatible switches, what they look like. They're kind of boxy, right? And you've got this stem and the stem has this cross shape to it in the center and you put the key cap on top. Keycaps look like this. They have the cross. It fits on. And there's the centering peg that, you know, orients it and then there's the two pins compared to the chalk switch tilt. You can see the pins are in different locations. The overall width and height are the same, but the pins are in different locations. So you cannot use the sockets or the same PCB layout. They're much, much slimmer to what people like these. You can see they're like a half the height of maybe even less a third of the height of MX's because the switch goes to the side. It doesn't go up and down. And then you can see the key switch top is also different. It has sort of this like plug, you know, two pin plug rather than a square plus shape. So you cannot use the same keycaps either. That said, you want a slim switch. This is the only thing you can use because these are these MX's. These are the standard size. So you'd have to go with these chalk switches to do that. And this is the clicky one and this is the linear one. So you have one of each linear and clicky. They're more expensive. They're harder to use, but, you know, they're slim. They're nice, right? You want something low profile. This is what you're going to get. All right. Next up, I think we're up to you got to switch. We do those. We just did those. Chalk switches. You got these. Okay. Now we're back in MX's line. Well, a lot of key switches came in today, you can tell, from Kale. So these are the Jade thick clicks. This is, I think, a novel keys in Kale collaboration when we purchased these from Kale. So there's Jade and there's Navy. And both of these are, they're Cherry MX compatible. Yeah. And they're both, like, really clicky. So if you're like, I want so clicky that it's like people are annoyed, it's really, really clicky. So I'll show them. So these are by request. These are a little bit too clicky for me. I don't know if I would put them on a keyboard. Maybe I'll put them on a macro pad. Oh, yeah. Like they're like, here, feel these, feel these. Just just press them. Just press them. What do you think? Really clicky, right? Yeah. This is, this is in the fidget category, like, you know, those little fidget things where you're like, you just do that because you're like, nervous. So clicky. So these are the Kale and, sorry, the Kale, Navy and Jade box thick clicks sometimes are called or just super clickies. Okay. Let's keep moving. Next up, we are now up to some electronics. Okay. We've got four spresents. If you are using the Sony spresents and you want to add Wi-Fi, here's a Wi-Fi add on. We're carrying this because there's a lot of people who are about to take a class with this presence for machine learning and the Wi-Fi module is part of them. It's by IDY. It's an improved accessory for Sony and it adds Wi-Fi capability to your Sony spresents. We also have this little sensor module, which adds a variety of sensors. You can see barometric pressure and temperature, I think humidity. You've got motion, accelerometer, magnetometer, all that good stuff, probably all over I squared C, plug it into your Sony spresents and, again, you can use the machine learning code in this tutorial class or the Arduino code that's provided to get sensor data into your Sony spresents board. All right. What else? Okay. Next up, we've got super high density LED matrix. This is just so adorable. Did you get that down there? Yeah. Okay. 32 by 64 matrix, but it's just so small. Hold on. I got to get my plug. You know, while you're doing this, someone was suggesting we do 12 packs because the Macro Pad has 12 packs. I know. We have the hot dog bun problem, right? Yeah. Let me tell you. Someone said you just have to buy nine Macro Pads. Yeah. Basically, the problem is that there's never a number because there'll be other devices. Yeah. Oh, wow. That thing's really nice. That is really nice. It's very, very nice. Sorry, everybody. I'm distracted now. You should see this in person. So, this is ultra high density, so it's 2.5 millimeter pitch, so it's the kind of size like a large candy bar. That even looks good. You know, sometimes it's really hard to have live video coming out of these things, especially with overheads and all this. This looks even good on that. Yeah. I'm just using it. I'm driving it with a feather and our feather wing that plugs into the back. So, this is our, I even have a little note to tell me, it's the 32 by 64 demo. So, this is the smallest 32 by 64 matrix I could find. There's only one that I'll think to watch out for. The green and blue LEDs are swapped. So, when you define the pins for this, just any pin that's green and blue just swap them. Like, nothing really changes in the code diff, like, the code library itself doesn't change, but what pin you select will be different. I don't know why it is because every one, every other one of our matrices doesn't have green and blue swapped, but it could be just because of the difficulty of routing such a tightly packed board, because these are two millimeter LEDs packed like basically one next to each other with no space in between. It could be that they couldn't route it without having green and blue swapped. So, just be aware, you turn it on, you're like, is that working? Whatever your pin definitions are, just swap the green and blue pins and you're good to go. Okay. Next up, really good news. These are now in stock. Yes. Y'all wanted some Adafruit keycaps. This is one of the only times where we put our logo on something. It is rare for us to do it. Not going to be a lot of stuff. We don't do, like, shot glasses or, you know, even shirts, really. But this, we thought, is kind of special and unique, and... And that's cool. I made it from Lego. It was great for a keycap because it's got that monochromatic look. It's nice. And... So these are in stock. We've already announced them, but now they're just normal stuff. Yeah, they're in stock now. Let's do that. So this is the open-source hardware logo, the community design logo. And it's now a keycap. Yay! We post up the files we made for this to try to keep it as, you know, open-source hardware. Quick review of where this logo came from so folks know, and you can look at my article about it. A million years ago, I designed a logo flash-enabled, and it later turned into the OSI logo, and that was later used as a reference for the community-driven one. I have a chart, I have all these things, collect them all, but now you can have the keycap. You see this on boards and things, but now you can have an open-source hardware keyboard and an open-source hardware key. And you're probably wondering, well, isn't there like an open-source hardware association of a different logo, but isn't there one, and like wouldn't it be great if you donated money to them? We do. Not only do we support the summit, but the organization, but we're going to take some of the sales from this and use that to donate to Oshawa. So that is New Parts for this week. Wait, we have to show the overhead. Oh, you want to show the overhead? Yeah. Wait, you had to, you had to do your rant. It wasn't a rant. Well, sorry. Your presentation. Yeah. Okay. So this is the Adafruit key. This is the open-source hardware logo. And then this is the special edition, not going to be sold hackadays, you know, we made one just for us. And you can just see it glows through. So this is great if you have an RGB keyboard with a, you know, back LED or even just a single LED, you know, it'll glow and it glows nicely even if, even though the LEDs of course on these keys are on the north side only, it'll kind of bleed through and it'll kind of make a nice gradient effect. So it looks, it looks quite good even in person. And then when off, you can still see it. It's just white instead of colorful. Okay. That is New Products. All right.