 oh man that's not good yeah that that mouse got in there and peed all over that thing and so I definitely don't want to heat that up zoom in I mean there's a hanging turd right there in the spider web hanging mouse turd mouse urine that's just terrible so yeah it's gonna be fun hey everybody welcome back today to Retro Tech and I've got a familiar CRT to maybe some of you this is an old Samsung CRT that I actually went through and have worked on in the past here on the channel and the reason I'm bringing this up right now is I've been getting a lot more questions about RGB mods and CRT RGB mods to be more specific and if I look back in my personal history with CRT and RGB mods I've actually only done it twice and both of those times have been documented here on this channel and the most recent one I did was this Samsung so I thought it'd be a great opportunity to go back look at this Samsung see how it's held up over the years kind of give you a little bit more history on this set itself this one is a Samsung TXD1972 that is a 20 inch NTSC CRT television it was made in January of 1997 the schematics are readily available online for this TV and you can use those schematics to develop an RGB mod and that's what I did back when I serviced this one now just to give you a little bit of a history on this specific set now this TV did survive a personal family fire that happened back in 2003 this was at a time when I was still in college and just over the holidays our house caught fire unfortunately now thankfully everybody survived and no one was hurt but most of the stuff that I owned was destroyed in that fire and somehow this CRT survived that fire and still worked so I just grabbed it from the rubble and leftovers again in my house and took it home and I cleaned it up just a little bit it survived a fire I'm gonna show you some damage up here to the actual shell itself because it did not you know it did get some damage from that fire there's some melting up here along the top that I'll show you when we look closer at this actual TV set so there is again a little bit of personal history with this you know back when I started working on this the first thing I did was clean it and then recap the chassis and all the boards inside and then we also started doing some custom mods to it one being the painted shell this would have started as a black television and I actually scuffed up that shell and repainted it in this red paint scheme and then I painted these buttons down here in a white paint scheme because that comes apart from the shell and that was pretty fun and and so it's got this cool like Neo Geo almost look to it I really like that about it and then we did do an RGB mod on this one and again that's in those older videos this was all done back in the fall of 2018 October and so that's three and a half years ago from today so the way that this RGB mod worked this was the older method to get RGB on your set and that would be by pulling RGB and blanking signals off of a jungle chip that is on the chassis of this CRT and then routing those to a switch now the switch here on this monitor is down here you'll get a closer look at it this switch allows you to switch between just normal mode pretty much where the CRT is is all rerouted into its normal functionality and you press that and then you can route in your RGB and composite sync into the television as an input instead of the OSD menu so it's an extremely basic explanation of the mod and how it works in this TV now why would we even do this mod this will allow me to get the best picture possible from this television it turns it into a TV that is a arcade quality monitor for CRT I can use RGB and composite sync inputs to connect various NTSC retro gaming consoles to this television and then again it will have that RGBS support input on it now I used a SCART input for this television and that way I can go directly from my retro gaming console and then to pull that RGBS out of that and send it through straight to SCART into this TV with any setups that I want to let's go ahead now and get a closer look at this CRT first thing you're gonna see is the beautiful red paint and that's held up pretty good for three and a half years and for the most part this has been in storage for about you know the last three years I thought this always looked really cool the way I was able to strip all the old paint that was just black on the speaker grill here and keep it silver that was one of the things I liked about the way that whole job went and again these buttons are just white and it's real simple I mean I had to paint over all the labels so you can't see really exactly what's each button does but there's not too many so it's pretty pretty easy to navigate through the reason I don't have it turned on as it's again it's been a while since I've actually used it and you'll notice we've already got the shell separated I went ahead and removed the four main screws just so we could get in here and look at this but I'll show you in a second it was sitting in storage and I think some critters may have gotten inside it and I just want to make sure before I turned it on and show you the screen that nothing's you know gonna short out and have any problems with it but you'll notice the dust that's just built up over the last few years on here and then this you see that warped part right there that is from heat that's the heat damage that occurred to this CRT shell as it just sat in my house in one of the rooms as the house burnt and that heat built up so much that it just eventually caused that plastic to buckle and melt slightly and then the house cooled down the fire stopped after the fire department put the fire out and so the CRT you know it didn't get hit with any water and the smoke damage was minimal on it so somehow it made it but that's the one thing that that was left from the damage I think it gives it a little bit more character but you'll notice yeah it's got the melted part there and up there at the other part portion thankfully it still closes fine and seems I've been held up well the plastic is pretty tough that just shows you how tough these CRTs are because it got pretty hot in there where that plastic would melt but it didn't seem to affect the tube and if we look around here in the back here here's the label with all the information we discussed about Samsung and this model of TV and then if we go down the only screws I have not removed that I need to remove before I pull the shell off are these two screws which hold our SCART input into place there and that's the new input for our video input and here's the thing that I'm concerned about so there's this opening down here where I think it used to have yet composite video and I removed that and an audio jack right there an RCA form and so unfortunately that's too tight to really fit a good SCART input down there although it is SCART sized you would think it would be very nice but it just I couldn't get it to work so I left this opening here and I believe that some rodents like mice had gotten inside of that so we're going to look inside by removing the shell next and let's just see what it looks like with this back off and the screws from the back of the television have been removed down here at the SCART input so that's loose and that should be the only thing holding this together down there just be able to remove that get this out of the way oh yeah so just on this side and I can't see where they got in here and definitely left a little present for me so I definitely want to clean the inside here but look down there for example they came in there and fit nicely through that hole ran over here and use the but use the bathroom in the corner so this is not something I want to just leave in here I need to actually clean this and wash my hands pretty thoroughly here's a look inside our CRT and we've got our anode cap up there looks pretty good I do notice that some spiders have made some webs inside of here which is not a surprise again being in storage the neck board right up in here next to our convergence rings and then we have our deflection yoke right here and then down into this area is where we have our RGB mod and until that all the resistors on this particular mod build out those were placed down here and let's look at a tied into some probably point one micro farad capacitors to ground and tied into the resistors and so yeah that's the way this old mod would work I'm not sure what this is this looks like it used to be huh maybe used to be the composite video or maybe an audio rerouting I need to check that out yeah the videos over here this is where the composite video so I rerouted the audio to this oh yeah we definitely need to get in here and clean this if we zoom in I mean there's a hanging turd right there in a spider web a hanging mouse turd we see those spots on that chip that's so this is our jungle chip right here that I can see the mod right you see how the mods actually running off the chip instead of like off of one of these jumper points that's how old this was as I just took it straight off the chip which was not recommended anyway if you look behind that over there it's that micro controller chip you'll see all those little dots yeah that that mouse got in there and peed all over that thing and so I definitely don't want to heat that up I'm going to pull this whole thing apart and clean it so yeah it's gonna be fun let's go ahead and get ready to do do that goodness gracious yeah you could see the mouse man he was in in this side oh goodness they really have a party down in there look at that wow oh man that's not good yeah you don't really want to have that stuff in your monitor and your CRT because I can just breed diseases so there's some nice caps right there Michigan caps wow alright let's get ready to clean this thing one of the things I do need to do to get this this assembled is I need to discharge this anode cap this TV's not been used in a very long time however there's still a chance that some energy is being stored up in there and this is not a probe video monitor at all a lot of pro monitors and higher ncrts had a safety mechanism where this would automatically discharge this TV more than likely does not have that so this is not really a guide on how to discharge but I will let you see me do that I've got this attached to the main ground strap going around the tube and the first thing I'm going to do is I'm just going to try to get under this cap a little bit and then there's our anode point right there and without touching anything else I'll hit it with this screwdriver we'll see if anything happens no so then you just push those that clip together and that anode will come right out we'll hit that up a little bit nothing and then we'll also tap our cap area a few times and now we're safe to remove our boards from in here okay so here we go I've also got the button for the RGB loosened so it can come with us and then there's a couple points on here that are disconnectable and that's it now we get it out of here okay well this is just pretty unbelievable how much damage these mice did in here first off check out the microcontroller it's it's actually got rust building up on it and that's all mouse urine that's just terrible and of course some fecal matter there to go with that right on our controller the whole board is going to need to be just doused in alcohol there's that new cap kit over there in the deflection block so if you ever do run into this do be careful this stuff can be very dangerous they've impede over here on the RGB chip the jungle chip right there I'm just going to douse this with alcohol lots and lots of rubbing alcohol and gonna wear heavy duty kitchen gloves because you don't want any of this this causes bacteria and can get you really sick I'm going to take this outside I'm going to clean this up and then we'll take a look at it afterwards rather than have me show you guys the cleaning process because that's really what I'm going to do and I need to be careful yeah see there's another spot that said resistor right there all those resistors they got peed on to right in there and I've rusted up so this is going to be a pretty tricky one just need to clean it and get all that out of there do it effectively and gently now the rest of this is not going to be as fragile we can pretty much hose this off use some heavy duty kind of bathroom cleaners to get in there and kill all the bacteria and give it a good day or two to dry out all right well thanks to the power of video editing you will not have to spend all day watching me clean the inside of this CRT what I'm going to start off showing you is this board inside of here and we'll just right off the bat look at some familiar places check it out this is the mycom chip over here and before it was covered in just all kinds of fecal matter and urine and really bad over on this side so I was able to clean that up some I'll zoom in a little closer and I mean I thoroughly cleaned it I had to clean this entire board with 91% isopropyl alcohol and pretty much water and I just did that over and over and over again numerous times with brushes just to get a lot of that nasty stuff off lots of alcohol though it took a lot to clean this whole board there was just remnants of stuff everywhere so that was one spot that was particularly bad and another spot that was bad was over here actually near our mod is our modification for RGB and blanking right over here the other spot was over on this side of our jungle chip and you can actually see some dullness on this chip on these legs where it actually did you know there is a there is a mark there forever from those little rodents in their mess and finally there's a third spot over here that was really bad there were a lot of spots in between here where the resistors are that had to be thoroughly clean but one that was just particularly bad of all the spots was over here next to these three resistors and they were in bad shape and you can tell how it's really dark over here because this is a high heat area but this was also an area that was just full of urine it was the spot on the back of the chassis that looked particularly awful so I'm gonna let you see the other side of the circuit board so you can see that damage and what it looks like so the circuit board's been cleaned and everything looked pretty good for the most part except in that area which is down here that I was explaining to you about this is underneath those three resistors and this was just soaked in the urine and it actually ate up a lot of the solder mask there the mask on top of the board so what I did over here was I cleaned these vias and connections and everything thoroughly with that alcohol and brushes and then I was able to just go in and apply new solder to all these places with a lot of flux and then I cleaned it again and then I went over here and I checked the continuity on these points to make sure that the actual trace itself wasn't damaged on anything and surprisingly none of the traces were damaged so I don't believe this is going to cause any issues it could but as far as I can tell from every test I've been able to do with a meter I don't think this should cause any issue hopefully our CRT still works good now the other half of this story is of course the CRT tube and then the bezel frame and all that so this also had to be thoroughly cleaned with cleaners and then washed with water and it's in it's nice and clean and ready to be reassembled but I definitely had to clean all that stuff out because I didn't want to have any remnant of that rat residue inside of here now before I put the anode cap on I am going to add a little bit of dielectric grease just rub that around in there that grease and she give us greasy spot there for our anode cap to go into and we'll just do the same thing on the underside there of the cap get in between those prongs that nice and that doesn't need to be excessive but just a good nice layer on everything then we'll just slip this back into place up here where it goes cap up and that should do it all right we're put back together everything's been thoroughly cleaned and I did go over here and tighten up our switch again and that's just the push button switch that turns on the RGB mod so hopefully everything will work fine everything's been reconnected what I'm first going to do is I'm going to plug it in to a search protector here and we'll see make sure that nothing happens so I'm going to plug that in right now we'll see if anything happens when we press the power on button here goes nothing all right I heard it come on I feel static on the screen that's all a good sign let's give it a second and see what happens I'm not really seeing any video okay there's something look at that okay all right so far the TV's been testing out really well we've got it just over in its normal RF mode right now so if I hit one of these buttons it'll change the channel that's actually the volume and see this puts it in our video mode now this TV only has one single composite video but it does have a little trick it does with the microcontroller where you could originally with the TV use the input on the front or the back and it was just one input that was shared between these two and it had an automatic sensor as to which input you were using I had to disable that feature and the composite video pretty much on this set to be able to use the composite video for the sync on the RGB so this TV really is nothing more than RF and then RGBS I've got my SCART input here and this is my SCART RGB cable coming straight out of the Super Nintendo that's plugged up now what we're going to do is we're going to turn the Super Nintendo on but first I need to get the TV over into RGB mode and we're going to press our sweet little button down here and listen for the big click we've manually set our switch to be in the RGBS mode let's just click this on and hopefully it'll work too just like the rest of the TV and what do you know there you have it we've actually got RGB yes so the rats they didn't mess up everything those dirty rats all right so yeah this is RGBS I don't mean S for composite video sync coming out of an RGB modded Super Nintendo and so let's let's pull a game up here and see how it looks we've got all our colors it looks extra sharp that's a really good thing about when you have an RGB modded CRT is it just looks so incredibly sharp all right as far as sound is concerned with this one we've actually got the sound out to a just a little jack down here that I'll be mounting that to the backside of the shell once we put that back on but I just wanted to test this for the most part and see make sure it was still going all right so here's one last look at the inside of here we're about to put the back shell on and again this is our audio out so I've wired this so that stereo audio can be drawn from this point right here and then you can put that to any speaker or headphones or anything really and then of course this is our SCART adapter that will be in in here or input that will be mounted inside also and that's pretty much it everything else is going to be inside here so let's just get that back shell and slip it right into place all right let's give this thing a test run now we've got it closed up we've got some headphones here to use for audio and this is just the simple way this slides right in there and now you have a SCART input here on this television and you could run this off to a switch if you wanted to but we're just going to run the console straight from there and then we're going to plug in these headphones right now and see how these work okay there you go you can kind of hear that coming out of those headphones and so you've got stereo audio there and then let's flip our set around and see what we've got on our screen oh there we are we have Kirby and wow that 240p looks so good but yeah so we got audio support it's actually better than the speaker that comes with this CRT normally so that's a nice little addition again you could plug anything into either one of these actually you've got audio output coming out of that stereo jack and then we've got SCART input there next to it that you could put video in with your audio and then it comes out through that it's let me know what you think of this tv also i do have the little sony tv that i finished up last year in 2021 by reviewing and i was thinking about how i wanted to maybe do a rgb mod on that television i had mentioned it in that video before but i thought maybe i could try one of the newer methods so if anybody's an expert and wants to help me out with those rgb mods especially in the new mux format i would love to work with you on that and then i'll be making videos on it so that'll be fun it'd be a great way to collaborate with somebody so hey leave me a comment and let me know what you think of this one and definitely look for more on this tv because there's a reason i had to get it ready i have another big project that it needed to be a part of and now it'll be good enough to be part of that project so thanks again everybody and i'll see you next time with some more retro content