 Hey guys, Brian here from Free Salon Education here and I've got my lovely model, Christina. She came in today and I'm really excited because she actually is mostly virgin hair. It's really long. It's a great texture and all she's got is highlights from last year. So she was a perfect, perfect candidate for me to go in, do a really great balayage. We talked about wanting to keep it natural but still giving it a really nice pop and really get a nice blonde in there that's just going to make it head turning blonde. So I'm really excited we're going to go through today, do some really great hand painting. I'm going to be working with cream lights because I wanted to make sure I use something that was nice and gentle on her hair because while I want to give her a really great pop I want to make sure that I don't trash the quality of the hair either. So here we go. Alright so to get started as you can see I've got her sectioned off just back to front and we're going in with the cream lights here. The key to making sure that you get a nice seamless balayage, the start, your first key actually I guess I should say is going to be that you want to make sure that you're using a lightener that's got the strength to lift but the consistency to glide over the hair. Some of you may or may not know balayage is actually French for sweeping so keeping that word in mind as you're working can help to make sure that you're gliding over the hair with a good sweeping motion. So cream lights is really good for that because I know that it's going to give me the lift that I want and it's going to brighten her up but it's just going to glide through the hair as I'm brushing on those nice wide sections. Make sure as you're working that you elevate that hair straight out from the head. I've got her parted from hairline to hairline with a little bit of a semi-triangle shape to her hair so that as I lift that up it's flat on top so that as I am applying that to the section it's going to go on nice and smooth but then when I let go it's going to have that hair from underneath sort of make the section buckle a little bit like you saw just there so that it's not going to press too hard against the hair underneath and it's not going to cause any weird bleed marks. I wanted her hair to have a nice seamless transition from her natural into the lightened ends so as you can see I'm doing triangle sections that are really just framing the outside because what that's going to do at the end is that's going to work out through all the hair and just really give it no harsh lines of demarcation and just that nice seamless gradation that I'm looking for. The saran wrap that I'm using in between is actually a really cool perforated saran wrap that I got from the sunlight company they make a whole bunch of balayage tools and different things that just help make our job that much easier the paddle is also from them as well just holds on to my product for me making sure that I can work cleanly and quickly so I've got the back of her head done as you move into the front I always want to make sure that it not only looks good when her hair is down but it's also going to work when she pulls her hair up so that's why I always make sure that the hair around the face that hairline I paint that a little bit closer than I might throughout the rest because if she throws her hair into a ponytail I also want her to enjoy her highlights enjoy that balayage so we're working that down I make sure that I don't just have those two lines that I'm creating framing the section just ram together I want them to come together on their own sort of throw a force perspective kind of technique when applying it that's why I'm holding the hair down further towards the ends of the section because I want this painted line and the painted line on the backside of this section to just seamlessly come together and when they collide at my fingertips is where it's going to be blonde through the ends Matt goes in and does a really great cut to to work with these nice long layers that's why I made sure that I I had the line come together a little higher up than I think I was planning on just because I knew that some of these ends were going to get cut off as you get up towards the top of the head you want to make sure that you're still getting a good elevation I had her tilt her head back just a tiny little bit so that I wasn't pressing any of the hair underneath working on the section framing technique like I'm doing with the the application of the cream lights is also going to make sure that I'm giving her more of a highlighted effect rather than just an all-over-blonding obviously if you wanted to use Bally as to create something that looked a little bit more like she was just entirely blonde you could do that as well but this is just going to make sure that you know she's got a nice grow out we work with her natural to have it become a part of the color itself her her nice gradation color story what's cool with Bally as is as you look through this saran wrap you can kind of see where your highlights are going to live so if there's any areas that you feel you're looking a little too dark then you can go in and always of course add more working into my last section here the small side of the part just making sure that it's quick sweeping motions I started the mid shaft of the hair sweep down and work up towards the scalp rather than starting at the scalp because sometimes there might be a little too much product on your brush or you know you just haven't gotten your rhythm yet and then before you know it you got a big blonde blob right by their face so what's good is if you apply it to the mid shaft then you can smooth it out moving downwards and smooth it out moving upwards which will also make your highlight you know get a little bit finer so that you don't have to have large streaks near the face if that's not the look you're going for as I get close to the part I tend to work in slightly smaller sections because that is the hair that should have the most dimension because in a sun lightened effect that's the hair that sees the sun the most so it makes sense making sure we get those ends nice and saturated I like to always make sure that there's two good hard highlights right at the part on the face line it just adds a really cool look to it to make sure that she always sees and enjoys her balayage herself get one last piece of that saran wrap to make sure everything stays nice and protected and there you go hey guys this is Matt Beck from free salon education comm here with our model Christina who Brian just colored using the cream light so I'm really excited to not cut too much of this off because we want to see all the highlights that he did so what we're going to do is keep the hair long but what I want to do is add a nice kind of face frame feel to Christina's hair she's a really low density of hair so what I want to do is keep the fullness I'm not gonna do a lot of elevating throughout the haircut we're gonna use a razor the Donald Scott carving comb it's gonna make the haircut really quick we're actually gonna work off of three basic sections throughout the hair so we started off right at the high point or the mid part of the crown and we section diagonal forward down to the ear on both sides you can see that and then what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna cut my basic line in the back I'm gonna use a heavier stroke with the carving comb so I'm gonna comb his hair down you can see how long it is and really the focus of the haircut is gonna be the face frame so you guys look at right here how long this is she's got one piece that I think used to be part of a bang and then the rest is just really long and hanging so what we want to do is bring some life into that and how we're gonna do it you can see how long this is and how it shortens her face up a bit so and to be able to kind of elongate her face we're gonna add that layer and movement right around this area and that will kind of shrink the gap in between her the length of her hair and where the chin line starts I guess so we're gonna start in the back you can see this hair has been on her head for a really long time so we're gonna remove just about a good two inches off of the base that'll make a nice strong base for her and we'll leave that highlighting because you can see where the gradation starts right around here and gets lightest at this point so I just want to remove just a couple inches with the carving comb a carving comb makes it really simple so as we tilt it down I'm gonna take a nice vertical section just combing everything very consistent in the back and we're gonna work one length at this point so even though we're gonna do a layering haircut because I've taken that section at mid crown forward all of these layers are gonna fall or some of these layers are gonna fall over top of this haircut so we're still going to have that that that movement in there even though we're cutting one length in the back alright so once we get I want to see that couple inches there and I'm just gonna go through I like to use the carving comb as like a kind of like I'm drawing with a pencil so we're gonna work from one side to the other keeping that tension this will give us a nice soft broken line you can also go straight in with the carving comb if you want as well whatever is most comfortable for you in this part of I find my guideline there and I'm gonna work just cut some of that so nothing real exciting here we're just doing a quick trim the excitement is gonna happen right in the front that hair is jumping off of her head it's wanted to leave her head for a while so very exciting the same thing combing the hair down keeping my body straight with the head my shoulders parallel to the section and that's cleaning up the back so we don't have to do much more in the back we could do a little bit dry if we feel like we want to break it up a bit but the most part you won't have to she's got that lower density of hair alright so now Christina likes to work off of a center part so and that's how we're gonna do the blow dry and the finish on this haircut so we're gonna cut it with the center part if she liked it more on the left side or right side then we would just part it there do the same exact steps for the haircut and we're gonna work in a forward angle so I'm gonna take now diagonal back sections I can take a little bit thicker sections because Christina has that lower density of hair so we're basically gonna do this in two two passes so we got our first one which is gonna be our guideline on the hair forward keep in the elevation low if I go too high I remove too much weight I want to keep it nice and heavy around the face but just create that nice face frame panel out which is the rest of that whole section if they have a higher density of hair thicker hair I would elevate more and I would do less hair in my hands but without I can see my guide under there and I'm just gonna work I'm sliding my hand out as I carve through you can see we're keeping all of that length in there more pass the tie in the bottom now we have a full face frame nice long hair alright so moving on to the opposite side the only thing that we're gonna change about this technique is we always want to be moving our tool in the same direction so even if I was cutting with scissors I would want to cut from the top to the bottom just like we did on the opposite side so I'm gonna work the hair out and then I'm gonna start working the carving comb from the top three inches section back and all that hair forward last bit now if I see a little bit extra length on the corner then I'll just pull the rest of the hair over and keep going until that length is gone you never know each side of the haircut might be a little bit different based on her previous cutting or non-cutting for a long time all right and then I'm just gonna work around check the back and a lot of people are always asking how do you create that V sectioning with the haircut well that's how you do it pull everything forward you cut it and when it falls back it goes short the long that way longest in the center we did our trim and now it's she's gonna have a beautiful layered haircut to go with her highlighted hair so hope you guys enjoyed this technique we're gonna blow it dry and then we'll sum it up all at the end thanks for watching just finished her haircut as you can see we gave a nice little just a face frame to lighten up her hair a little bit so that we get a little bit of movement around the face and we went in did lots and lots of balayage this is this is the final result of everything we'll spin her around after we processed it till we got it to a nice light level that I was happy with we went in with a picado demi 10a just so that I could get just a little bit of overall that very nice pale cool hug to the color that I just wanted to make sure just made everything even more seamless so we gave her a fun little style just to really show off all that nice layer and texture that Matt put in there hope you guys enjoyed this video thank you very much go check us out at free salon education.com thanks