 Hi you guys, welcome back to the Sew Along for the Seamwork Frankie dress. I'm Lindsay with Inside the Hem and I am ready to keep talking you guys through how to sew this really, really cute dress. So in the previous videos, we have basically assembled the entire bodice minus the sleeves. In this video, we're going to be assembling the skirt and attaching it to the bodice. We're also going to be installing an invisible zipper and sewing up the side seams to prepare ourselves for attaching the sleeves. So let's keep it going and we'll start working on the bottom half of our dress. All right, it is time to make a skirt. So we're going to be taking our front. So you're going to just do like it says. You're going to take the center, which looks like this. You are going to take the one of the sides and you're going to match them up with the side that has two notches goes on either edge of the center front. So same thing with this one center. Okay. So like that. So along these seams, and then we'll have similar situation with the back pieces. So we have I, which is placed on the fold like so, and then Jay is going to go on either side of I, and we're going to make sure that the one with this one's going to have double notches very close to each other versus just the single notch. So look for the double notches. Okay, double notch, right sides together. So now we know this one goes right sides this way. So and search if you want to be a star student and you want to go for that A plus the extra credit, you can French seam these. That would be really beautiful. French seams are easy. It's just an extra stitch. So you sew them wrong sides together at three eighths, trim it back by a quarter, turn it wrong sides to get. Wait, turn it right sides together and then stitch it at a quarter of an inch. And then you have French seams and they're really beautiful. Am I going to do that? Okay, yeah, I'm going to do it on this one. It's just it future me is going to be so much happier. Okay, so skirt is sewn. This is the front and you can see my beautiful French seams. I know I'm going to be so much happier wearing that just along with those seams being along the front. It'll be a lot more comfortable. Okay, so we're going to take this and we're going to attach it to our bodice right sides together. Remember, the bodice is still separated at the side seams as well. So you just take your front or the midriff, I guess, at this point and we are going to start pinning again. We are doing the outer edges. Okay, so we've got the edges and then the midriff has a notch. That notch is going to get matched up with the seam. The seam line of the skirt where the center and the side come together. And then you're going to mark your centers. So the center of the midriff is here. The center of the skirt is here. I'm pulling my basting threads out. That's what I'm going to use to pull up the gathers for the skirt. Okay, then coming down and there's another notch for the other seam of the skirt and then the outer edges again. All right. So once you've got all those like markers pinned in place, then we want to start to pull up our gathers to match because you can see the skirt is a lot bigger than the bodice. So grab your threads and just start pulling them up just like we've done a million times already on this pattern. Once you get one section done, we pin and move on to the next section. And this is really why I like gathering in sections because you can get one area perfect and then move on. You're not trying to to balance everything all at once. It's too much. Once you're done with that, you're going to take it to the machine and we are going to sew it and also finish the seam allowances. So that part I will search if you wanted to do this like super professional and couture, what you would have done is instead of basting both of the midriff pieces together, you would have left them separate. You would have turned the lining one. You would have turned it under the seam allowance and you would have placed it over these raw edges and hand stitched it down. But we're not messing with that. I'm only going to be... I can only do so much couture in one garment and the French seams are going to be it for me. Okay, while I was at the serger, I went ahead and serged the wearer's left. Okay, when I'm wearing it my left hand, I went ahead and serged that side seam that's going to prepare us for putting in our zipper because we do not want raw edges under the zipper. Okay, can you see how this is our side seam? I have my invisible zipper and I went ahead and pressed the teeth away from the tape so it's just a little bit flatter. I am going to take right sides together. So with the zipper pull facing down on the right side of the fabric, I'm going to put the stop. The stop is going to go five eighths of an inch from the arm side edge. So that's going to be right there. This is a handy dandy little five eighths inch ruler. I love this thing. And then the zipper tape is three eighths I think. Yep, and so the serger is a quarter. So I can put the edge of the tape on the edge of the serger thread. Basically where my left needle on my serger goes. So right side down the zipper pull is faced down. The tape is what's facing the serged edge. The teeth are facing the inside of the garment. So I'm just going to gently put this in place. I'm trying not to pull anything too hard. Then you come back. Your zipper is going to look like this. Faced down, right? You have this little thing here. You're going to go flip once, flip twice. Okay, so she's going to go flip. So now the teeth are facing me. Flip. Now the teeth face away. All right. And again, I'm going to mark all the things. Now when I do this side of the zipper, I tend to start with any horizontal seam that I've got. So on this one, we have the mid-drift seam. So I will zip this up just past that. And then I'll put a little snip into the zipper tape right along that seam. Then unzip it. Now, when I go to put this down, I know that that little snip needs to be exactly, exactly on the seam line of the mid-drift. Okay, so then come down here and put another pin close to where we want to stop. You don't have to stop exactly on the dot, just somewhere in that vicinity. So then you would do that on your, with your zipper foot as well. And then I'll meet you back here to show you the rest of the side seams. All right, so invisible zipper foot. That's so weird. Oh, there we go. All right, invisible zipper foot gets popped on. How's my bobbin thread? My bobbin thread is good, but I'm getting very close to needing to change that out. All right, so just going to place the teeth in the left hand groove, move my needle over. I'm getting nervous about it being that close. Okay, I'm going to go with that. All right, sew it down. Okay, while you're here, test it out, make sure that, so zip it up till the bottom. And if it looks like this, where it's like, how is that going to work? You just need to flip the tail so that the teeth, the zipper teeth, are both facing the inside. Zipper all the way up. Check your waist seam. That looks pretty good. Mine is right there. It's really hard to see because I have all these like squares and stuff. So even if it worked perfect, I'd probably just leave it to be honest. But there you have your zipper installed. So to handle the bottom portion of the left side seam, you are going to switch your foot again to a regular zipper foot. You're going to peel back the bottom of the zipper, exposing the side seam, folding all of this back, back, back, back, back, back. And you're going to pin this so that all of this stuff is like super, super tight in here. The tighter, the better. Then with your zipper foot on, with your zipper foot on, you're going to place the edge of the zipper foot on to the zipper. And I'm starting like, I don't know, probably a good inch from the end of the seam line I just made with the zipper. I'm going to ping this over pretty far, maybe one more. And we're going to stitch that down. And you only need to go as far as like the edge of your stitching where you stitch the zipper on. Then take this out, change your foot back to your regular foot. And you should be able to sew the rest of the side seam at your normal seam allowance, like so. And you're going to be matching up with the seam line that you just made. So I'm back stitching over that a little bit. And now I'm going to finish, all right, that is handled. We're going to press that open. And then you can also cut off your zipper below the seam. And then if you want to add like a little piece of cotton there to make that not so rough, you can also do that. All right, then the zipper side is taking care of. We go to the other side seam, and we just sew down the side seam like normal. My bobbin just ran out. So I got all the way, like halfway down the side seam. So glad I went ahead and prepped that. So I don't have to stop my mojo. All right, the next step per the instructions is to hem your skirt. I am 95% sure I'm going to add a tear onto mine. I might chop off like six inches of this so that the tear starts like low thigh and then ends up being like midi length if I make it like a foot long. So I don't know, I've got to work out that math and I'm just not prepared. So I'm definitely not going to hem it, but if you are going to hem it, if you want it to be knee length like everything else, that's fine. You're going to make a baby hem. So you're going to do a quarter of an inch turned up, press, and then you're going to do three eighths turned up and press. My little trick for doing this is for the first fold, you want it to be quarter of an inch. So you're going to measure at double that. You're going to measure at half. And when you measure at half like that and turn this up, then you have your perfect quarter of an inch, right? Then from there, from this folded edge like that, you're folding up three eighths from there and three eighths doubled is three quarters. So from there, mark the three quarters. And then when you turn that up to match the line, now you'll have your perfect three eighths and you can edge stitch all the way around. Obviously you'll be measuring both of these measurements all the way around. It ends up being half an inch and one and an eighth. All right. You have something that looks a lot like a dress right now. In fact, you could just hem the arm side and the skirt hem and you would have a dress, but we are going to be attaching these really beautiful billowy sleeves in the next video. So come back here once you've got your zipper and side seams and everything installed, your skirt is attached and we, and I'll show you, I'll walk you through adding the sleeves to your dress.