 Hey guys, it's Matt Beck from freesaloneducation.com here with another queue and haircut video for you guys. You asked the question, I do the haircut, so just let me know what haircuts you're looking to learn. Post them in the comments below, like and share this video with your friends and also hit us up with the hashtag Free Salon Education on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, any way that you can reach us to let us know what haircuts you're looking for. This haircut request was from Samantha Wong. Samantha Wong asks, I'm new to your page but I'd like to see a stacked slash layered bob. So I thought about this quite a bit and I think a lot of people have different opinions on how much is a stacked bob, what is layering. So this isn't technically layering but we did work our way through the back, created a nice stack in the back and then an A-line feel to the haircut. So it's got a lot of swing to it, nice side parting, let's see, oh she looks nice. So nice side parting, we did get that stack in the back again like I said. So Samantha, I hope this is the haircut you were looking for, let me know what you think. We also finished this off with a lot of dry haircutting techniques and a new one for you guys as well. So I hope you guys like this haircut, that's why I'm doing them for you. Leave in the comments below again, let me know what you think and let's get started with our step-by-step layered stacked bob. Alright so we're going to start off the haircut by taking a right hand side parting, definitely find your guest parting where they're going to part their hair for this haircut, then we're going to take that and direct it slight diagonal and then down center back. Then my next parting is going to come from mid crown and it comes right across the crown, down past the parietal to the recession point of the head, a real diagonal forward section which I will show you in one second. Then we take from that same point in the back another section that goes down to behind the ear and we section that away. I'm using braids to section it away just because sometimes it's cool to do that as a presentation point plus I never braid hair so this is a way to make sure that my braid skills are still there. Alright so there is the kind of, you can see it's a rounded section, it's hard to describe really what the shape is but hopefully you can see it there. So now we're going to work our way up the head, I want to break this down for you so let's pause it right here. Okay so let's go over the fundamentals of what a stacked bob is. The way that I'm going to start off this haircut is I'm going to start it with a base, the base is going to be at 90 degrees. Sorry about the crazy drawing but I think that this makes sense this way. So 90 degrees coming straight out of the head then as I work up the head the head shape starts to peel away from my fingers which is going to change the degree that doesn't mean I'm really changing the finger angle that I'm using just means that the head shape is moving so the degree is changing. But I do want to keep in mind that I want to keep it around 45 degrees because if it's not it's going to start to stack too much and get too heavy. So we want to keep it nice and light all the way up till the roof point which we're going to call it the roof which is the hair that's going to fall over the top of everything. I want to make sure that comes out at an exact zero degree angle nothing less than that because if it is it's going to be way too heavy and it's going to throw off the whole entire look. So I hope that this picture helps you guys but that's the way that I think about this whole haircut. So we go through working palm to palm, sight diagonal forward section but not much. The only reason I have it diagonal forward is because it makes me more comfortable to do this haircut. If I have it vertical that's just a weird way to tweak my arm so I don't want to do that. So now I'm going to go through using a traveling guide so I'm bringing everything to the previous. That's my goal through this haircut because I want to have a really strong foundation. Now as I work my way to the side of the head right behind the ear everything will be over directed straight back. So we are creating those of you that went to the school of triangle square in circle we are creating a triangular shape to this haircut because everything's being over directed straight back. So you can see the elevation of my hand keeps raising through the haircut but then when I cut lower it lowers. So I'm following the head shape through but know that you can see how it collapses at the bottom from pretty much the occipital bone down but then the top is a little more stacked up. That's that weight that density that we want to create the stack in the haircut. Over directing everything straight back somebody asked me about how do I do this without creating a hole. It's pretty simple and I'm going to show you guys that you don't want to freak out right at this point right here. That's not a hole. What you've done is you've layered at the occipital bone so it pushes some of that light hair down. We're going to cut all of that off in the dry cut so we're going to connect those lines together. When you cut hair this short in a bob you're going to have that kind of because it's not meeting up with the hairline. So we're going to go through we'll remove that later and make it look nice and you'll see how you can make that adjustment but I think a lot of people freak out at this point thinking that they've cut a hole and you haven't so you're good to go. Alright so as we're moving on we're going to move to the right side of the haircut now my finger angle is pointing down. The reason my finger angle is pointing down is because that first off it's comfort. Second I was combing the hair towards the center of the head on the opposite side so now when I move to the right hand side I still want to be combing the hair to the center. That would be very difficult for me to do if I kept my finger angle pointed up. So it's really about comfort. Comfort equals consistency I say in every video but it's the truth so just make sure that you stay comfortable. So keeping that angle and that elevation as I work through the head you can see my elevation goes up as I work down towards the nape of the head my elevation goes down. So I'm really following the head shape but still over directing everything straight back. So you can see now we're going to remove a little bit of that weight that was from our layering at the occipital bone that will start to connect it but we're really going to go in and honestly I actually I cut that off because then throughout the video you guys aren't thinking wow look at that tail coming off of there and then I'm going to go through and actually do my finalizing at the end so a little fun fact for you. You can see the elevation coming straight out from the head so if you look at what would be straight up from that would be 90 degrees so that would be straight off the top of the high point so straight out is going to be zero degrees. That's going to give us our heaviest point it's a point that I'm probably going to remove in the dry cut I actually know I'm going to remove because I already did the cut but I will remove it later but I don't mind having that weight in there just to see how it looks at the end because if somebody had finer hair you might not want to remove that. Alright opposite side comb out that braid over direction straight back using our guide from the previous cut panel just working our way through and you can see this is a finish of our wet cut looks really nice again could look great on curly hair I get that question every single haircut I just don't have curly hair mannequins but you can see that nice stack on there if they did have curly hair I would probably continue my layering a little bit more and I wouldn't go so much at a zero degree angle at the top because what that would do is build up a lot of weight in the haircut so really curly hair you don't do anything you don't really do anything different you're still attacking it the same way the only difference is you're changing your elevation to work with the density but you would do that whether it was fine hair coarse hair curly hair whatever it is you're going to change that elevation based on the density of the hair we'll go through an iron it give brocato a shout out it's a vibrostrate iron now I'm going to go through with my dry cutting so I started off the haircut and I used the prototype scissor for Mizutani that I'm playing with right now that it's supposed to come out in summer of 2016 so I'm really excited for that but now I'm working with my Mizutani puffin which is a dry haircutting scissor I love this scissor and I'll show you guys why in a little bit it's got a really sharp point on it which is good for this kind of detail work it's got a really fat blade and it slides through the hair really really well I always say like butter but it really it's it's amazing how soft it feels in a haircut now this isn't a perfect scissor for cutting straight lines but it's great for dry cutting that's what it's for so now I'm going to take a horizontal section just to soften this is where I had my zero degree angle so this is the top roof part that we talked about I want to go through and I just want to soften that line you can see how I look underneath it to see how soft that's falling and then go through horizontally using a vertical sectioning just to cut and remove some weight now this is our final dry cutting technique this is one of my favorite techniques that I just I hadn't really pulled out in quite a while this is called no thumbs so you pinch the scissor with your pointer finger and your thumb and then you work and you just open your ring finger up and down what this does is it adds a lot of texture to the haircut you do not want to see a ton of hair falling out of this technique so a lot of people you might not really see anything falling there is hair being cut in there so you're opening and closing the scissor as you're working but it's very little pieces and what it's doing is just causing taking a little bit of air adding a little bit of air to the haircut and a lot of texture to the haircut so I just like having texture and movement in haircuts it's just I think it brings it to life it personalizes it so the no thumbs technique is pretty cool and it's just something you can add in if you wanted to you could go through a point cut it would be a very similar effect this is a more random scattered effect with this technique and it's definitely impressive to your guests if you do it correctly if you don't it's not impressive so we can go through the side do the no thumbs technique with that as well basically the way I look at it is you're opening the scissor you're grabbing hair and then you're pulling it down and cutting it out so as you lift up when you're coming down you're cutting into the hair that you're lifting up and just removing little pieces at a time so you can see there that hole is is gone what we call the hole I guess that was my quotes in the air that you couldn't see so we went through we drew our line with our Mizetani puffin then we go through and we texturize and it just connects everything together I gave a little flip to the end of the hair with our iron a little bit of spray to finalize the haircut it's a really cool haircut I'm glad it was requested it's it's you know I think it's definitely a popular haircut and it's a classic technique that you can use on pretty much any every day in the salon for sure so hope you guys like this cut please hit that share button on social media and share this haircut with your friends and a lot of fun doing this haircut guys if you have any haircut requests make sure that you leave them in the comments below and I'll see you guys on the next video thanks