 Alright guys, so on today's vlog, we're gonna step a little bit out of our comfort zone. 🎵 🎵 effortlessly, time gets spent when I'm with you 🎵 🎵 days have no beginning and nights have no end when I'm with you 🎵 Alright guys, so the cut that we did today, this is the haircut and color. So I actually colored the mannequin, I know I don't do that very often. You might see why, you might not. I finished this cut and I felt like it needed a little bit of hair color, so we do that at the end as well. I'll walk you through the technique, you can let me know what you think. So here's the cut. The cut is a short kind of cropped square bob. One length throughout the perimeter of the haircut so it's really nice and heavy. Then I go through and I layer into the top and we create this really fun shattered fringe that has been popping up all over Instagram pretty much everywhere. This isn't necessarily what your guests are going to be asking for exactly, but the techniques are cool. It's great for a guest that wants to get a little bit more creative with their hair. I think you guys are going to like it. Let's get started with the step by step. Alright, so we're going to base the entire haircut off of the very center of the crown. So I'm going to take each of my partings diagonal across the parietal ridge down to that recession point of the head. We're creating a nice triangle shape on the top. Based on that triangle shape, then I'm going to draw two more diagonal forward partings down to behind the ear on each side to section off those triangles. So we're going to work this whole entire haircut off of triangular shapes. Now I'm going to take a parting straight down center back dividing the back into two sections and comb each of those panels off to the side. We're going to be using our Mizutani blacksmith fit six and a half inch scissor. This is one of the very first Mizutani scissors I ever had. I really love the way that it cuts. It's got a nice solid feel to it and a very comfortable handle. Alright, so now we get those sections clipped away. We took diagonal forward sections along the occipital bone and I really wanted to line that diagonal section or diagonal parting up with the how I want the outer perimeter of the haircut to fall. Now I'm working scissor over comb. Key things on this is to make sure that you keep that steady blade along the ridge of the comb. This is my 339 comb from YS Park. I'm just working that. I like using the loose teeth when doing scissor over comb and working a lot of bulk out of the hair. So we're just going through there the wider the teeth that allows the comb to really slide through the hair. Then when you go in you want to work around the nape. You want to work in tighter places using the tighter teeth works but this is just a good way to get that bulk out of there. So you'll see me go through and I just quickly cut the hair. I'm not worrying too much about the precision part of it. Then I go through and I really start detailing it once I get the length where I want it. Now we're going to go through a blow dryer real quick and just blow dry this with the comb tension. So it allows the hair to lay the way that it should to make sure that our cut is exactly the way we wanted it to be. So I'm going through just detailing the outer edges and we're going to start to build our graduation here. So everything's coming straight back towards me. I'm cutting an even square back in the back of the head. So parallel with my shoulders as I'm cutting. So what's going to be happening towards the inside of my finger I'm actually building up quite a bit of weight because of the over direction and because we're rounding that corner and over directing it back at the same time. So we're building up a little bit of weight which is cool because it kind of aids in the shape of the haircut at the very end which you'll see when we blow it dry. Also what it does is because we're doing the over direction it's pushing the angle towards the face already. So because we're over directing it back it pushes weight to the front and length to the front so it really starts that outer perimeter line that we were talking about at the beginning. So now I'm going to work that diagonal forward parting all the way through. We're going to start continuing into the side of the head at this point and building in that outer perimeter line that we want to kind of follow above the jaw bone but diagonal towards right about the corner of the mouth. Key points on this part of the haircut is to make sure that you keep that elevation low. The higher you go with the elevation the more broken the outer perimeter is going to be of the haircut. So you won't get that solid line that you're looking for. The other thing is you'll see that I separated the front and the back right here and that was because naturally the hair wanted to fall from the crown, wanted to fall a little bit more backwards. So you have to be careful whenever you're taking your sections down you want to see how the hair is going to fall naturally. Don't try to pull it too far from where it's going to fall naturally otherwise you won't get those nice perimeter lines either. So just working through that's the end result of that side. We're going to do the exact same thing on the right side. Working through taking my guide from my previously cut side. You can see that I sectioned away a little bit of the I sectioned away the top of the left side just so I could grab a little piece of that to start my guideline. Now working diagonal forward through about half inch sections not trying to take too much in my hand I want to see a clean guide. I don't want to pull too much hair down even though I am cutting a stationary guide in the back. So working through you can see that angle and how it starts to unfold I think this is a really good view of that now so the over direction plays a key role in pushing that weight and length forward to behind the ear and that gives us a good point to continue on when we get to the side of the head. So keeping that over direction back working through the back of the head. So you can see how it kind of flows it starts a little bit shorter in the center and that weight grows towards behind the ear that has everything to do with the over direction that we just did. So now I'm watching my finger angle and my fingers are basically pointing at the corner of the mouth that's where I want that line to go and I want this to be nice and solid so again not lifting it not trying to elevate it too much because that'll break up the line it'll add too much layering to the side of the head and that's not what we're going for. To get that finished up I did another blow-dry with the comb just like I did on the back part. I really want to see this haircut shape happening as I'm doing it so I'll do the blow-dry after I finish each section. So we're going through the top I find the point where the head starts to curve forward because what we're going to do is we're going to cut that entire section I'm leaving out nice and short a short bang kind of choppy fringe and then the top we're going to cut short to long so shortest point in the back longest point is the bang area because I want those long layered pieces to fall over the shorter bang and that's what's going to give it that kind of modern feel that you're seeing now. Alright so we're going to go through and we're going to blow-dry the bangs to prep them for the cut so we're going to go through using a comb so we get as much tension as possible and now you can see the motion I'm going to make with the scissor. I'm going to use that steady blade along the skin working at about a 45 degree angle to create as much choppiness to the bangs as possible and this is really all just by looking at it with your eye. It's however you want this to look but you want to go nice and short with the bangs because then that top layer that we cut earlier will fall over it and that's what really completes the look. So one thing I'm going to do here is I separate the temple area just so that I don't go too far this is more of a safety thing for me just to make sure that as I'm cutting into the fringe I'm only working on the specific area that I want to cut. So continuing through chopping them up as much as I want to. This is again all personal preference so just decide how much you want to cut and the great thing is I'm sure we all have a mannequin that has a lot of bangs on it so we can go through and you guys can practice it because these bangs are really short so it's a pretty easy technique to find something to work on. Alright so now we're going to start off our color technique. The big difference between when I do hair cutting and when I do color is the color sectioning is going to be a little bit looser a little more free so as I go through I'm taking a large horseshoe section around underneath the parietal ridge underneath the low crown and just working the depth and so the color I chose for the bottom is a level 5 ash demi color. My goal with that was to add depth to the haircut so now I'm going to go through I'm going to section out the bang area and just start painting that level 5 again all the way through it. I wanted to keep that depth in the fringe because what I wanted you to see is in the end result I want you to see that separation from the longer layers on top and the darker choppier fringe on the bottom so just adding that depth to the underneath. So now we're going through you can call this balayage and call whatever you want. I'm painting brightness to the ends I'm using sunlights in 40 volume so it's a balayage lightener and just going through brightening up the ends leaving a little bit of depth in the middle and then once that process is I'm going to go through and overlay it with a different color so I'm not really so worried about the application of this because I just want it to brighten it up obviously I don't want any bleed marks or hotspots or anything like that so you want to keep that saturation on there but really the goal of this is to overlay it with another tone afterward. Now I let that process for 35 minutes. Alright now so we're going to blow it dry you can see the depth underneath from that smoky level 5 and then the pre-lightened top. The pre-lightened top is pretty much a red orange so what I'm going to do is go through with the Joico Peacock Green color and that's going to almost neutralize it a little bit you'll still have some of the green tone left over but I really was going for more of a grungy feel because we have that really choppy PC short bang so we let that sit for 20 minutes now we're going to blow it dry for the final time and hair like this is definitely a little extra effort so a lot of people try to do things in one process but it's much better to go through and do everything the right way so you can see that kind of smokiness but also the green tone to it I personally like it you could have went with something like a pink or whatever you wanted throughout the color you could have left the lightener on a little bit longer you could have worked on a human and maybe gotten a little bit more of a lift but I really kind of dig that smokiness to it so now I've I've got it ironed out use my Vibra straight iron now I'm going to go through with a shorter scissor I'm using my 5.7 inch DB 20 scissor to work the edges of the haircut so going through like I say in pretty much every video the edges of the haircut are not perfect lines when you cut them wet you cut them wet to get the structure in there and the weight control and then you go through dry and you perfect the line so I'm just going through using that tip of the scissor I'll go back and forth probably 20 times I won't show you every single one of those times and just go through and perfect that line until it's exactly the way I want it now same thing with the fringe I've got it blown dry again so I'm going to go through with my scissor and chop it up creating almost like a teeth look into it going very deep and then you can see that top layer falling over it got such a cool look so now I'm going to go through do some point cutting on the top layer especially on that heavier point because we cut short to long so the crown is the shortest point which you can see there then it gets longer towards the front so just elevating it nice and high point cutting the very tip of that section just to lighten it up now we're going to go through with the little tees cutting half open half closed you can find more videos on that technique just hit the search bar on our YouTube channel and you can find it what I'm doing is grabbing the entire section cutting that in half so that I'm not cutting the edges around her face shorter just the layers on top then I go through one final little flat wrap with the blow dry just gets all those loose hairs out and I grab the brocado carve which we all know is my favorite product for adding peaceiness and texture and I go through and add that to the ends of the haircut pinching around the fringe just to add a little more separation and then letting that top layer fall over it's just such a cool look I hope you guys can use it let me know in the comments below what you think thanks guys alright guys so if you made it to the video you know what to do post below let me know what you thought of the video hit the like button share this video with your friends and also if you get a chance you're looking for new scissors go to freesaloneducation.com pick up some Mizetani scissors these are the ones I used all throughout the video this is a six and a half inch blacksmith fit scissor really cool scissor I got a great deal on it at freesaloneducation.com so go check it out thank you guys so much for watching and all of the support on these daily videos let me know also below what you would like to see next I always love a little inspiration and ideas thanks for watching guys I'll see you on the next video