 Today's topic is behavior grass management, and I'm Dr. Lee Ann Dillard, the Alabama State Forage Extension Specialist. So behavior grass, this is one of the grasses that we used to kind of pick on, but now as we've seen some problems with some of our other perennial options, it's quickly becoming more popular across the state. It is a long-lived warm-season perennial. Traditionally, we see this grown in the southern half of Alabama, but there are varieties that are adapted up through most of North Alabama, and I'll talk about that in just a few minutes. It's commonly used for pasture, but it can be used for hay, erosion, troll, and wildlife habitat. Also, it's pretty common to use it in a sod-based rotation, especially in the Gulf Coast region of the state. As you would plant peanuts or cotton for several years and then put it into the hay grass for a couple of years, and this picture here is from a successful sod-based rotation in Florida. So what are the characteristics of the hay grass? It is very grazing tolerant, and I'll talk about why that is a little bit later, but compared to some of our other forage options, it is very grazing tolerant. It does have a few diseases and insect problems compared to Bremutagrass, which obviously has Bremutagrass stem maggot, and some of our other issues with other perennials such as Paltesbury as well. It's very drought tolerant. It only has moderate forage quality, but it also only needs low to moderate fertility. So compared to like I'll compare this a lot to Bremutagrass, that is our most common warm-season perennial grass in Alabama, but Bremutagrass is most successful under high fertility. Condition. So this does give us an option for a lower fertility forage. It's also tolerant of stool acidity, which for about three-quarters of the state can be an issue. So that's a good thing, but I will say that if you live in a black belt stool, that is very basic, say over seven and a half or eight, you may have struggled to get it established. It is going to work better more on the neutral to acidic side. So this graph demonstrates the different growing seasons of different common grasses here in Alabama. And these are going to be our warm-season perennial grasses. As you can see, the hairgrass, which is the top row, will grow from anywhere to mid-March through the beginning of November. Now, we can pair that with an improved Bremutagrass or a high Bremutagrass, such as PIP85 or Russell. And it's going to have a much shorter growing season, roughly mid-May through the beginning of October. But you can also see the relative forage yield of Bremutagrass is higher than that of the hairgrass. But again, the growing season is quite shorter. Now, common Bremutagrass is going to have a little bit longer growing season than the high Bremutagrass, but not much. But then, obviously, there are your sacrifice and yield. Dallas grass, which is a pretty common forage, especially in the black belt, but growing across the state, has a similar growing season to that of the hairgrass. And then, Johnson grass, which, again, is probably most popular as a forage in the black belt, but does grow extensively across the state, is, again, going to be a little bit shorter than that of the hairgrass. So, the hairgrass of our warm-season perennials does have the longest growing season. Now, there are several different varieties of the hairgrass. Pensacola is probably the most common, most people have heard of Pensacola. It's best used on less fertile soils and in pastures that will not be well managed. It is kind of what we consider the parents of most of our improved the hairgrass varieties. For the most part, I don't suggest using this anymore because we do have improved varieties, but you can still find plenty of fields that are planted in Pensacola and can easily get Pensacola seed. Argentine was the original hairgrass that was brought actually from Argentina, South America. It's not very cold tolerant and it's very susceptible to ergot or fungus disease. So, we don't see that as much anymore. It's also the lowest yielding of our variety. And honestly, I'm not even sure if you can find seed anymore for this, but it is the original hairgrass that was brought to the US, so I thought it was worthy of bringing up. This picture here you see on the screen is actually of Pensacola and Argentine. And you can see the difference in the leaf size as well as the productivity. In this particular picture, Argentine has a little bit of a bigger leaf size. Pensacola has a finer leaf, which a lot of producers prefer the finer leaf to the hair grasses. So, tip to nine is probably the most common variety that you see planted currently. It is a derivative of Pensacola, but it has greater seedling vigor, which is important and I guess one issue with the hairgrass is the establishment can be difficult. It also has a more upright growth habit, which makes it better for hay production. And it also produces 25% greater yield than Pensacola. And this is why we suggest planting it rather than Pensacola. As the name suggests, it was developed in Tipton, Georgia. So it has moderate cold tolerance into Central Alabama, where again, Argentine is going to do much better in the extreme Gulf Coast, the Panhandle, Florida and places like that. AU Sand Mountain was developed here in Auburn in Alabama. Actually at the Sand Mountain Research Station across still. So this was, I believe, a stand of Pensacola that was planted in Sand Mountain just to see how it would do. And a few of the plants survived and they were able to ecotype it and sell it as AU Sand Mountain. It is the most cold tolerant. If you are Birmingham North, this is the variety that I would suggest planting. Some of the others may survive, but this is going to be the most prolific. In recent years, it's been difficult to find seed. But I actually recently spoke with a seed producer in Geneva County that is producing Sand Mountain seed and selling it through the Alabama Farmers Co-op. So the seed is limited, but you will be able to find some this year if you are in the northern third of the state. Tip Quick is a variant of Tip 9, which again is going to be from Pensacola. As I said, Pensacola is kind of the parent of most of our varieties. It is superior in ceiling vigor to Tip 9. Otherwise, it's essentially Tip 9. So all the other characteristics are very similar. I will mention and I have it yet that all of these varieties, you're going to see the quality is pretty much standard across all of them. The big difference is going to be in the yield. And that's where the benefit is going to be. Tip Quick, as the name suggests, does germinate a little bit faster and have a higher germination rate than Tip 9. It is a little bit more expensive. So that's where, you know, you have to consider your personal situation, whether, how long you can keep cattle off of the pasture, whether you choose between Tip Quick and Tip 9. The last variety I want to talk about is the variety developed at the University of Florida, D.U.F. It has later fall growth and earlier in the spring compared to our Tip 10 varieties, but it's only been studied in the lower coastal plain of Alabama. And since it was developed in the Panhandle, Florida, it's cold tolerant, has not been really pushed. I really like this variety, especially like I said, if you are, you know, in the coastal plain, the lower coastal plain, the headland area, the mobile area, but at this point, we need to do further studies to see how far and more we can successfully grow U.F. Reata. So here's a picture comparing some of the varieties that I talked about. This was a headland, which is outside of Dometon, the Wiregrass Research Station, about 10 years ago. And it just kind of shows you the differences. You can see the Tip 9 is a much thicker stand than that of the Pensacola. Also, again, I mentioned it. Remember it has a much more erect growth habit. And you can see that as it's slightly lodged compared to the Pensacola, which is much lower growing. And it's really difficult, as you can see here, to see the difference between the Tip Quick and the Tip 9. Again, remember, Tip Quick is Tip 9, which is a little bit better sealing vigor. So the plant itself is pretty much the same. So establishment of the headgrass. As with most gorges, prepared seedbed is always the preferred method. Now, obviously, if you are in highly erodible soils, this is not the method I would suggest. But if you are an area that is you're capable of doing the prepared seedbed, be it full tillage or conservation tillage, this will increase your germination, which is, again, one of the challenges of dealing with behavior grass. So you want to plant scarified seed that basically is a conditioning of the seed, either it can be physical or they actually like basically scrape the seed or it can be chemical. Again, a lot of our warm season forages and the headgrass in particular have a very thick seed coat, which is why we get a lot of hard seed. It is seed that will germinate, but not necessarily in the first year or when we plant. So by scarifying it helps the plant, the seed germinate faster. We do want to plant about 10 to 15 pounds of the acre in March or April. So around this time of year. We don't want to go deeper than an inch. So about a quarter to a half an inch. I always suggest to producers, it's much better to go too shallow than it is to go too deep. So I would make sure your drill is set at a quarter of an inch. And then in some areas where it may be less firm, you may go down to a half an inch and that's okay. In this also, cultivating and making sure we have a firm seedbed, it's very important. You can see in this picture here that I took several years ago at some plots we were doing that while we do see some divots from the tractor tires. They're not very deep. So we want to make sure we have a good firm seedbed before we plant. You can broadcast the hay or grass. You do want to increase your seeding rate to about 18 to 20 pounds per acre in this scenario so that you're able to, because you're going to have less seed to full contact so that you're able to have more seed out there. Now, with tip to nine and tip to quick since they have better germination, it is suggested that you can reduce the seeding rate a little bit compared to the more traditional like Pensacola. So the suggestion for tip to nine and tip quick are eight to 10 pounds per acre when you drill it, either no till or in conventional till and 12 to 15 pounds per acre in broadcast. Now when it comes to the other varieties, we don't have as much information our other novel variety. So with those, I would suggest using the higher seeding rate when in doubt, it's always better to have a little too much seed than not quite enough, especially in a crop that is difficult to establish. So but if you are using the tip and variety, she can reduce that a little bit, which obviously reduces your cost for acre establishment. So in terms of fertility, I mentioned already that behavior has a lower fertility requirements and some of our other warm season perennials. So our general recommendation is 75 to 175 pounds to the acre. I would say 75 is going to be for a pasture situation. And then 175 is going to be in a hay situation. And also if you are considering producing speed and I'll talk about the benefits of keeping your field for seed production a little bit later. As with all crops, we do need potash as well as phosphorus, and we know those at 40 pounds to the acre of peas. And that is in terms of P2O5 and K2O. It is taller of solosidity, but we still need lime. Obviously our soils are nationally very acidic outside the black belt. So annual lime is going to be anywhere from 0.3 to 0.5 tons per acre. I would defer to your soil test when it comes to this. You always want to soil test and follow your soil test recommendations. Many of our soils in Alabama are high in phosphorus and probably won't require it. And many of our soils are acidic, so we probably will need more lime. So in pastures, we do suggest soil testing every two years, and in hay crop situations, we suggest doing it every year. So the typical forage quality for behedgrass is about 85 to 90 RFQ or relative forage quality. You give you an idea of what that means. Bermudagrass can range from 90 to 100, and novel tall fescue is anywhere from 100 to 120. So you can see it's slightly lower than Bermudagrass, and I would say that it's slightly lower in quality or similar quality to that as close to Bermudagrass. The thing, one thing that's unique about behedgrass is close grazing is necessary to obtain good utilization. But as I mentioned earlier, all varieties are similar in quality. So planting the new varieties are not really going to get you a benefit there, but they will increase your yield, which will increase your caring capacity. When we look at the forage yield, and now this is Pensacola at different nitrogen fertilization and clipping frequency, we can see that with no nitrogen application on average, we're producing about 1240 pounds of dry matter per acre, and that's average across clipping frequency of every week, two, three, four, or six weeks. Now when we look at just the addition of 50 pounds of nitrogen, we're able to almost double that. In 100 pounds, again, we're not seeing quite the same increase. Now at 200 pounds of nitrogen, we do see it jump up to about two and a half tons per acre, which is quite substantial, but still when you consider Bermudagrass, and think about Bermudagrass, when you produce seven, eight tons of dry matter per acre, we're still seeing it's relatively low. Obviously, the less frequent you clip, the more biomass you're going to produce. So this kind of gives you an idea of clipping frequency, maybe you can either see that in terms of hay clippings or in rotational grazing. So we do suggest about a 28 to 30 day rest period in Bermudagrass, and so you would see that around the four week mark, which is here. So we've got 1,300 pounds at none, up to 5,600 pounds per acre at 200 pounds of nitrogen. So again, the recommended rate that we suggest is somewhere between about 50 and 100, you know, about 75 to 100 pounds nitrogen per acre. So improved varieties. Remember, I told you that they're going to produce more, so this study was done on Pensacola. So remember that if you're planting tipped in nine, tipped in quid, ufriata, you're going to easily get 10 to 15 percent more yield compared to this table. So looking at forage availability, and I brought this up because I've mentioned now several times that close grazing is the best way to utilize the hay grass, which is kind of the opposite of what we typically say, right? We typically say eat half, leave half. Well, in the hay grass, the growth happens a little bit different than those forages. So to leave half, we're actually going to have to graze it a little bit closer than we would with some of our others. So when we look at our behia grass, and we look at two inches to greater than five inches, and you add those numbers of percent of forage cutting high, and it doesn't matter which column you use, which nitrogen rate. Let's talk about these purposes. Talk about New York, no nitrogen applications of this column right here. You can see that for every inch, you're going to see roughly, and this should be four to five, not four to 52, 9.48 percent, almost 10 percent, 11 percent. So when you add those up, in the above two inches, you're only going to have 40 to 50 percent of your total forage yield. Now, for most of our forages, we talk about grazing down to only three to four inches. For me to grasp, we can push a little bit lower. But so if this is 40 to 50 percent and above two inches, your bottom two inches are going to have over at least half of your forage biomass. So that's why we say that to get the best utilization, you really have to push it a little bit further than you do some of our other grass options. Now, having said that, we only want to do that in an established stand. If this was the first year of the stand, I definitely would not push it that far. But if it's an established stand of being a grass and it's your following appropriate fertility, then you should be able to push it down into that right at two inch mark. And you can see just in the first inch, this last row here, 40 percent of the grass is in that first inch. So it does make it a bit challenging to manage. You also need to keep this in mind when looking at hay production. Now again, remember, these data is from Pensacola and I did tell you the tips and varieties have more erect growth habit. So the data would be a little bit different with those. We might see the numbers shift a little bit upwards. But if you are dealing with Pensacola, unfortunately, we see that about 40 to 50 percent of our forage is in that first inch. So grazing management, the carrying capacity for the hay grass is about three quarters to about 1.25 animal units per acre per year. And the animal unit is defined as a thousand pounds of animal, be that two five hundred pounds fierce or one thousand pound cow. So comparing that to Bermuda grass, it's about one to one and a half. So Bermuda grass is able to carry a little bit more. As mentioned several times, Bermuda grass is higher yielding than the hay grass. And then novel tall fescue is about a half to one. So similar, a little bit lower. So it does have a pretty good carrying capacity. And remember, it's going to be growing a little bit longer than the Bermuda grass. The Bermuda grass is just so much more productive. You're going to have a higher stocking density for a sheer period of time where the hay grass you're going to have a smaller stocking rate, the stocking density over a longer period of the year. So looking at performance, which is always important. This is stocker cattle data. Obviously in terms of average daily gain, which is the easiest thing to measure stock cattle kind of easy way to do this. We're going to see anywhere from three quarters to one pound per head per day. This obviously is not going to be profitable if you're working on a stocker cattle system. Obviously stocking cattle during the summer is a huge challenge. When you compare that to Bermuda grass, we're talking about about three quarters of that with what you give Bermuda grass, and then even lower that and novel tall fescue. Tall fescue, the endophyte, the novel endophyte tall fescue, which obviously does not have fescue toxicosis, it's going to be our cool seasons are always going to be higher quality than that of our one season. Now, if you were to do this, keeping this in mind, this could easily be a system where you graze and also supplement stockers. And that's how you could be economical that way. It will be difficult to get enough gain on those stockers, though, to be able to be economical. Now, for a mature cow, this is perfect forage in nature quality demands quite well. So it's really good for cow calf operation. So hay management, obviously hay is quite popular in the hay grass. One, because it is more drought tolerant and tends to stay green longer during the drought than Bermuda grass. But also there's a big interest at the moment from the horse industry and the hay grass, because it's perceived to have less carbohydrates or less sugars available. So it's better for laminated horses. Also, it has a more finer, finer week. So it is moderate quality when cut in less than five week interval. So this is going to be similar to Bermuda grass. You want to be cutting this approximately every 28 to 30 days. The TDN is going to be 50 to 56%. The requirement for a mature cow is 55. So again, as I said, good quality for your cow calf operation. Crude protein is going to range from 9 to 11%. A lot of that is going to be dependent on the weather conditions as well as your nitrogen fertility. Nitrogen fertility has a huge impact on food protein. Again, for a mature cow, we're talking about eight to 9% requirement. So again, it's going to be able to meet current needs. For a stalker cow, we're talking about upwards of 55% to 70% TDN requirement and more 14 to 50% crude protein. So they're likely going to have to supplement those animals. As I just mentioned, the majority of the forage biomass is below one and a half to two inch lower cutting height. So it's typically not considered a good species for hay production. I would say that the caveat to that is if you are working with an improved variety, tip to nine, tip to quick or ufriata, you can more successfully make hay. I'm not saying that there are people that you can't make hay on Pinsicola behiagras. You definitely can, but your yield will suffer. And really below one and a half to two inches, even if we were able to cut lower than that, you would be getting so much soul into your hay, you would really be reducing the quality of it. So I would suggest if you're interested in behiagras hay, looking for an improved variety, you're also going to get higher yield, which has going to help you be more profitable. So behiagras can be invasive in your grass hay fields. So if you do have behiagras that you're grazing or cutting for hay and also Bermuda grass, I would, you know, try my best not to let there be any contamination, washing equipment before you go between fields and not feeding the hay grass hay in Bermuda grass. While there's no effect on nutritive quality, because behiagras will dry darker than the Bermuda grass, it's not very visually appealing. There are some options of dealing with behiagras and Bermuda grass, but they're extremely expensive. So prevention is the best case here, if you are trying to keep them separate. So this is a graph just showing the average forage yield from either tips and 85 or coastal Bermuda grass versus 59 Pensacola and Argentine behiagras. And this was done in Tipton, Georgia, so southern Georgia and the coastal plain over three years. And we can see, as you would expect, tipton 85 is the highest producing of all five varieties, pushing about 1700 pounds of dry matter per acre. Now, coastal did a little bit worse, but it was higher than the tipton nine. And then we look at our tipton nine Pensacola Argentine, you can see they kind of stair step down. So again, if you're in hay production, I would suggest it's probably worth it to upgrade to tipton nine. If you are using Pensacola, just for the added yield, you're going to get about 20000 more pounds of dry matter on average per year when you have tipton nine compared to Pensacola. So seed production, and this is something we see quite a bit in Florida as well as south Alabama as a way of getting a little extra money off your pasture. So it can be an additional source of income on both pastures and hayfields. New varieties are plant variety protected. So it's illegal to collect seed unless it's a certified field. And those are going to be your UF Rihadas, your tipton nine tipton quick. This does not apply to Pensacola. So if you have a Pensacola field, you can very easily harvest your seed. Filled to Pensacola and Argentina can be harvested to offset fertilizer and other production costs. They produce about 150 to 400 pounds of seed per acre. And depending on the year, again, that could easily set off your fertilizer cost if nothing else. There's several custom seed combines in Alabama that will come and harvest your seed for you. So the growth of tillers that later developed in the seed heads is stimulated by grazing and mowing. So we suggest grazing and mowing through the beginning of the summer applying 100 pounds and then applying 100 pounds of nitrogen per acre. Producing seed is quite expensive for my energy standpoint. They do have a higher fertility requirement. So one of the challenges of doing this is determining when seed is time to harvest the seed. Maturity rates will vary. So you want to check multiple seed heads. But the easiest thing to do is just grab the seed head, try to strip it with your hand. And if the seed is mature, it'll easily release from the seed head. And the handgrass color is not the greatest indicator of whether the seed is mature or not, because often it's still green, but ready to be harvested. You want to dry the seed as quickly as possible to avoid any heat damage, as obviously the seed is going to mature at a different rate throughout the field. So you will have some immature seed that will not be completely dried in the field. So the timing is going to be on each year is going to be dependent on rainfall, fertility and management. But generally we're going to stay mid to late June in the coastal plain. So weed management in behaergrass, as with any pasture or hayfield, the best defense in management is remote against vigorous behaergrass growth. By managing it correctly in terms of fertility and cutting or grazing height, we can make sure that our behaergrass is able to compete. The behaergrass is extremely competitive and is able to under the right conditions out to feed mostly. And as example of that is many permutagrass producers have it as a weed in their community best. So for broadly points, the easiest option is to 40, but we do not want to do that during the establishment year or before behaergrass is about eight inches tall for grassy weeds, specifically basic grass and smut grass, which tend to be problems in behaergrass, you can use the bill far, which is going to be again an expensive option. You want to apply it April through late July at about 0.67 to 0.12 pounds of active ingredient per acre. You only apply this when the full moisture is sufficient. Humidity is high and the air temperature is greater than 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It will injure the behaergrass by temporary burning and yelling it about two to four weeks after application that will help reduce your basic grass and smut grass. So for more specific situations on your weed control options, I would suggest going to the ACIS website, acis.edu, search IPM guides and pull up this publication, which is IPM 0028 Passures and Forge Props Insect Illumine Control Recommendations. This is going to give you information on specifically what herbicide options are currently labeled, excuse me, in Alabama or behaergrass. I would also say regardless of what this publication says, always read the label of the herbicide so that you can verify that it will not kill your behaergrass. So as part of this, I wanted to bring up a current topic or a new upcoming topic, which is Brunswick grass. Excuse me. So Brunswick grass is an emerging weed problem in behaergrass, and the reason it's emerging is because it's a cousin to behaergrass. They look very similar, but unfortunately, even though it's got moderate quality, it's not palatable to livestock. So you can see in this field, which was in, I believe, Levi County, Florida, the tufts of grass that you see in that field are Brunswick grass, and the overeaten areas are the behaergrass. So you can see how quickly it could take over a field because the cattle are going to select for the behaergrass, make it weaker, and since they're not grazing the Brunswick grass, it's able to take over quite quickly. So we can outcompete behaergrass and basically lead to a field of what is a behaergrass look-alike. And I'll show you some pictures in a minute to kind of so you can distinguish between the two. I will say we have this grass or this weed in Alabama. We do not see it nearly as much as a problem in Florida, but we do have it in Alabama. So at this point, what we're trying to do is trying to keep it from becoming a problem and control it before it does. So in this picture, you can see Brunswick grass has a seed head very similar to Dallas grass. It's got three to four racines, which are the lines of seeds compared to behaergrass, which typically has two. Always remember that you want your behaergrass to give you the peace law of sign. If it's not doing that, it's either infested with Dallas grass or Brunswick grass. Now Brunswick grass in terms of the leaves are going to be very similar to behaergrass, where Dallas grass has a much thicker leaf so when you look at the bunch of grass, you can tell the difference between the Dallas grass and the behaergrass. Now Brunswick grass, behaergrass and Dallas grass are all in the same genus, so that's what can make them very difficult to distinguish is because they're very close cousins. So Brunswick grass, just like behaergrass, is a perennial summer grass. It has a similar growing season and appearance to that of behaergrass and you can imagine if you were looking at this field without the seed heads, you could very quickly just assume that it was a field of behaergrass. So again, it has similar flowering to the Pensacola behaergrass but it often has three to four of the seeds per head. And I will tell you even our behaergrass expert down in Florida, Dr. Ann Lunt, who is the one that kind of initiated this, initially she had a hard time telling the difference and she's a forage breeder and this is what she does every day. So they are very, very similar. So the easiest thing to do to confirm or deny if you have Brunswick grass, excuse me, is to dig up the roots. So especially if there's not seed heads present to be able to look at. If you look at Brunswick grass, it has long, skinny rhizomes and you'll see it tiller where the plants are connected. Where behaergrass has a much short scubby rhizome, you can see it there. It's kind of shaped like a J and it's not going to be connected as these are. You see that you have what appears to be two plants connected by the same root. You're not going to see that in behaergrass. So you can also look at the seed. There is, while the seed is similar in size and color, Brunswick grass seed typically has a bull's eye on it. As you can see in the picture there compared to behaergrass, which is usually a lighter color of brown. Not in this picture, but it usually is more of a white color. Also it's not going to have the dot in the middle. So that's the easiest way to tell on the seed wise. So again, prevention is the key to control this problem. And we do this by buying certified seed. We just talked a little bit about seed production and how that can be used as a secondary source of income. But the way this has gotten around and spread is through brown bag seed. Because it is not tested for contamination. So the certified seed is always tested. It has to be in certified fields which are checked regularly to see for any weed component. And also they go through a lab and here's an example of a seed tag you see here. And it's going to list the amount of weed seed. Now Brunswick grass is not listed as a noxious weed. Any noxious weed seed that's found has to be listed on the label. But you can call the certifying lab. Give them the information there about the lot. And they can tell you any weed seeds they found. They just don't print it on the tag. But certified seed does have to have I think below 0.1% weed seed total. This also gives you obviously information on germination rates, hard seed and things like that to help better calculate your seed rates. So insect management probably the most common concern for insects in bahia grass is fall armyworms. There are some other smaller issues with bill bugs and things like this. But I didn't, I'm not going to talk about those. I'm going to focus on fall armyworms. They do have the most severe outbreaks late summer early fall after a dry period. We see that right some years we don't get very much and in other years it takes off and we see a horrible amount of fall armyworms. They will reduce the yield but usually if you have a good established stand you don't have to worry about the stand being killed. You're just going to reduce your grazing. I will say anecdotally that most people see that the fall armyworms will attack other forages first before they become to the bahia grass which I think is kind of a good thing. So you'll see they'll take out the ramita grass first and then it'll come back to the bahia grass. You can treat for fall armyworms but usually in bahia grass given the quality and the yield the loss is not enough to justify the treatment because it is quite expensive. But again if you are interested in learning more about fall armyworms and management in bahia grass or other pasture crops you can either go back to our IPM guide for insect and weed control recommendations. Also we do have a separate publication on management of fall armyworms and pastures and hay fields that talk specifically about just fall armyworms. And those can again be found on the ASIS website asis.edu.