 Welcome back everybody. Today we're working on another PVM in the shop. I've got a Sony PVM5041Q model and that is one of the tinier and smallest CRTs you're going to even be interested in keeping, most likely. This one is of broadcast quality. It was mainly used in the field to use at the site for either a film shoot or something else. But this one needs a bit of service work done to it. It definitely has an issue with geometry that you'll see quite easily on this test screen I'm going to show you. But you'll also notice there's a big problem with some of the convergence all over the screen. We see separation here between white and red especially in the corners and the whole screen needs some major adjustment. So we're definitely going to have to get inside of this monitor because it is an older monitor. So just to want to note one quick thing here today's repair is on the more complicated side meaning that if you don't have a lot of experience with CRTs you may just want to watch this one and decide not to do this type of repair yourself. But just a little bit more on this monitor it is just has B and C connections. It has a standard input for video AV or composite and then it has another input for RGB that can be changed to component as well. It is an older monitor from the early 90s so it does not have a service menu. And to open it you simply remove the eight screws from the side and then pull up on the lid or the shell and it will pull up and pull off like I did just a second ago there. One thing you're going to notice when you look inside here is how compacted and cramped everything is. There's a lot of hardware pushed and squeezed together and about as tight of a little space as you can possibly make. So just note that that when you're working on this you're going to have to expand these boards out. I'm going to start with this board on the right hand side of the monitor and this is like the color board and it has all neck board controls built into it. And just from right off the top at the looking at this I can tell there's a major issue with these yoke rings. They are not even attached to the yoke anymore so that's definitely what's causing that convergence issue that we saw when we first powered this CRT on. Okay so there's definitely evidence that there's been repairs done to this monitor before. This cable here has quite a bit of some kind of silicone adhesive on it where it might have come loose and had to be glued back into place. This particular board actually is our deflection board. I'm sorry the color board was the other side. Those potentiometers right there are going to be the ones that are going to help us control our geometry on our screen so we'll eventually get to use those. Now first off I want to get in here and take a closer look at the yoke itself and the rings yes they are definitely loose. The last two are loose and there is even a portion of the plastic that was there that was part of the yoke that has broken off and is completely gone. The yoke is also just pretty much epoxied into one spot and it's not even setting properly against the tube. There are no spacers on it so it's definitely evidence that something happened at some point to this yoke and since it's older plastic it's cracked and it's pretty much all but disintegrated at this point. Here we are at looking at the other board. Now this is the color board. I'm sorry that other one was the deflection board. This is the color board. More potentiometers on there. The first thing I want to do here is I want to try to secure these yoke rings back to some kind of spot where I can tell by the epoxy that was on there originally. Kind of where they were sitting originally. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to start by putting a couple pieces of tape down here and we're going to tape these yoke rings into a spot where we can later go in and try to use some epoxy and other materials to build up back under this yoke because unfortunately I do not have a replacement yoke. This is what a normal good yoke would look like and you'll notice that it has a full plastic ring back here but this is what had broken off that that yoke there was this plastic ring right here and so that without that plastic it's not really holding those those rings in the right spot and you'll constantly have problems on here. So now I need to also reseat this yoke completely to give it its best chance of working properly and that needs to start with me removing the old silicone on here that somebody used to basically attach this to the back of the tube. I'm using an X-Acto knife and I'm taking my time as to be careful to not puncture the anode cap. I mean you can tell right here where I'm working around this is a very difficult repair to do properly and if you slipped with that knife and cut something you weren't supposed to you could either hurt yourself or damage your pvm for good. So I've been able to get the yoke backed off some and now I'm going to pull up my test pattern again and I'm going to move and try to get this yoke reset back into place using the tape and just the actual yoke by pressing it up hopefully to the right spot on the back of the tube so that I can go in there and get it secured into place because what I'm going to have to do is I'm going to have to take a couple different types of silicone and pretty much go in and rebuild this yoke. Again I don't have a replacement for this five inch one so I will have to use some silicone to go in and fill in some spots which we'll do here shortly. Really quick I'm going to first try to get this geometry set a little bit better and once I have the geometry set a little bit better then I can tell where I want to sit this yoke because once I apply this epoxy it's going to be a very big job to remove it if you needed to make an adjustment after it's hardened. The potentiometers are all labeled for what they're actually controlling on here so you can get in there and make any adjustments you may need. I also had to make a couple of slight you know adjustments to the yoke itself. Now this is the silicone prior to the footage you're seeing here I have used some white silicone and now I'm going in with the black RTV silicone to fill in all the gaps and pretty much build up an entire sticky you know membrane or silicone kind of thickness to protect the tube and the yoke and have the yoke sit in the proper space but again this stuff will eventually harden. The RTV is heat resistant and so it's generally used to make like gaskets in automotive repair so it's very high quality and will definitely work for us here. You can see I've already used some of that white epoxy and it's had a little bit of a chance to harden so now I can go in and apply the second layer of RTV here and fill in the gaps and then I'll let it harden after I get it applied evenly through this neck and I definitely tried to just build up under those rings and make it a nice even spot on there similar to what it was when it was originally made. Again this is very tricky and once this hardens there's really not going to be much of an opportunity to go in afterwards and make any real adjustments to the screen. I'm going to take a chopstick and use it to kind of smooth out a lot of that epoxy and then I will also kind of move my yoke into place for final set and after a couple of hours this RTV will completely set and then we'll only be able to make another adjustment by basically cutting it out and starting all over so I want to make sure you get it right the first time and that's why after even I've applied the RTV I'm going in here and checking again to make sure that my adjustments and my screen is set to a good setting. All right so now we've waited 24 hours and we're ready to test again and see what our finished screen looks like because as I said earlier we're not going to be able to make another adjustment at this point. Once I've set that RTV and let it harden there's really little chance of being able to get it loose and make any real adjustments. The last thing I want to clean in here is under the bezel so I've removed the bezel it's taken off by four screws two on the top two on the sides and then I'm just taking a windex wipe and cleaning off the tube and the buttons and then I'll just reapply and reassemble this little mask here and bezel and then we'll be ready to reassemble the entire PVM. You have to be extra careful when you're reassembling these little monitors to make sure that everything's lined up properly and that you're not pushing any cables into a dangerous spot or a spot where it could ground out against something. All right here's a look at our monitor we've got it cleaned up real nicely and we're ready to put it to use and run some tests. I wanted to show you one more feature of this cool little five inch and that is this little kickstand that they added to this monitor. This is not on a lot of the eight inch monitors but it is on the five inches and it's a really great little feature that adds a lot of character to the monitor and last but not least let's take a look at our test screens and see how we came out. You can tell our geometry is a whole lot better we still do have unfortunately some convergence issues in one of the corners the lower left hand corner and at this point it would be way too difficult to adjust and get that corrected. Unfortunately I feel like you probably need to go salvage a yolk from another unit and that's going to be difficult to find for a five inch unless you find one that's just got a bad tube but the yolk is still in good shape so here's a final look at the screen. Again this was a difficult repair and I don't recommend that you just go try in this if you don't know how CRTs work because again you're doing a lot of adjustment and you're getting really close to the more dangerous components on the CRT and as you do that you need to take extra special precautions and it definitely pays to have experience and a little bit of know-how when you get back there and you try to do things like adjust a yolk on a CRT that is turned on but thankfully this one is just more of a little nostalgic piece that will sit on a shelf and it'll do a great job for that and you could just show it off to your buddies or whatever if you have somebody come and looking at a cool little CRT it doesn't offer a whole lot as far as you know a big gameplay experience but it is really cool to have one just for you know just a little piece of nostalgia. I'm Steve thanks again for watching today folks and I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content