 The What Sneak Show is sponsored by Lombard Hobbies, your value hobby shop for over 40 years of modelers helping modelers. Big inventory, value pricing, fast shipping, and great service. And by Bachman Trains. Now that's the way to run a railroad. Check out their website at BachmanTrains.com. And thank you for helping us support the best hobby in the world. This is What Sneak for April 2023. I'm your host Ken Patterson, and this month we've got a great show in that it is part three of the part four part series on how to build a shelf layout and work it into a 12 by 5 foot beautiful layout where the shelf portion can be interchanged with other shelf layouts to keep operation interesting. Also this month, Matt Stern stops by from Bachman Industries in beautiful Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, and he shares with us a lot of amazing new products. It's just it's so great how Bachman is creating so many new models for the model railroad industry. Also be sure to check out the What Sneak this week video show podcast that we create every Saturday night, keeping you updated on what's new in the hobby along with our great podcast crew and special guests that we have every month. And so with that let's continue on with the rest of this April 2023 What Sneak. Hello, this is Michael Gross, and you're watching What Sneak with Ken Patterson. The last thing to do on this project is actually finish this turntable. So now I'm going to go over how it is that I'm going to do that with you real quick and kind of just give you a quick description of how we're going to make a gallows turntable. And that's simply an old wooden turntable bridge that's essentially like a bridge in itself. It'll be held up with guy wires have a center post. Now I've put some cribbing in the bottom. I've got my microphone jack in the bottom and nothing's been glued yet. I took a piece of oak, a piece of scrap wood in fact, and I drilled a 27th, 2764 hole in it with a drill bit so I could fit in the microphone jack very carefully into the bottom of the wood. And that brings us to the point of where we are now where I've got the cribbing in the bottom of this microphone jack. Once everything's glued in, we're exactly where it's supposed to be. And I won't know that until I get the rails laid on this. This will fit right in there just like that. And it'll be just like the prototype, a hand operated gallows turntable. A turntable at the end of the line where it only turns around a locomotive and they turned it by hand. Similarly, this will be done by hand. Another thing that I like to do is I like to take a piece of track. And in this case, it's Microengineering Code 70 track. And I ran it through a, actually this is Code 55 track. I ran it to a bandsaw and split the HO scale track in half. And what this allows me to do is to take this piece of track, bend it around inside the turntable pit, and create the rails that the outside of the turntable would ride on top of. And this works out really, really well the way this just fits right in here. You can fill in the missing ties. And that also helps give stability to the bridge. When it's plugged in, it'll have a point where it will not teeter-totter because it's rail. If it's in correctly, and the only real magic to tweaking a bridge like this is simply to tweak it. Carve here, carve there, make sure everything swings around perfect. And in this case, it's a simple turntable. It's only got to match up in actually four different spots as it spins around as opposed to a turntable with 12 tracks on it. So we can get away with a little bit on this. But all this is to do is to turn the locomotive. Now the next thing I need to do to this to finish this project is I need to put a wooden decking across the top and darken everything. Then I need to put rails across the top and spike the rails in place. And then I'll build the upper structure, which will be aesthetics of the main beam of the bridge. And then the cables going down at angles to the end of the bridge, holding everything from flexing and from warping on the prototype. And that would pretty much bring us to a finished turntable pit. So let me get through that and let me show you how this turns out. I want to give you a little further explanation that needs to be talked about on building this deck. Now I added eight by eight by ten bridge ties across the deck. And then I also added a few longer ties. I took some switch ties, some HO scale 16 foot long switch ties. And I put those on the deck as well so that I can run planks across this and make walkways so that when the engine's on here you can actually get off the engine and have some space to walk. Plus it'll also help with the guide wires that will be holding the bridge portion of the turntable bridge in place. In other words, we're going to build that infrastructure, which I'll show you this on this video. In order to get the smooth deck the way I want it, I took a piece of wood and I've got sandpaper that's been glued to it. And I simply take this and I put it upside down and I work it back and forth real slow on the sandpaper until all the ties are exactly the same height. And then I restained it, put it in the oven and baked it for a little while. And it gave me to the point where I'm at now where I'm going to take some narrow gauge rails and some contact cement and glue the rails in place where they need to be. And then I'll drill out the holes with a dremel and a small drill bit. And we'll start spiking the rail in place. And that should go pretty quick. And I'll just follow up a little bit further as we make progress to explain these steps so that you understand exactly how I'm building this freelance gallows turntable bridge. Now that we've got the bridge deck built, I'm test fitting the turntable in position. And if you look inside here, the railroad ties, I glued those in to create a base underneath. And I was able to take the nut that is on the microphone jack and actually tighten it up a little bit snug with these ties. So the microphone jack is temporarily mounted that the base of the turntable is plugging into. Okay. Now I'm using contact adhesive to glue the rail down. And because I've got it set up in a position and the height is all matching up, I've glued down the first rail with contact cement. And I double checked it with a couple of track gauges. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to glue down the second rail real time for you so you can see how I do this. Now I've got about a mile of mainline on my railroad in narrow gauge that is not spiked down yet. I put a third rail on my HO scale mainline and it's glued in place with this weld wood contact adhesive. And this stuff, the train gets run almost every day and none of that rail is coming loose. So this stuff is very dependable, but we're still going to go ahead and spike drill out holes and spike this bridge for the turntable, even though I know the glue would hold by itself. So I put the glue on. I'm going to smooth it with my finger just a little bit here. I'm going to use the track gauges to double check my work and line it up. Now I've cut these rails just a little bit longer than what they need to be so that when I spin it around I can line up everything to this track and then cut the rails to the precise length that they need to be. And then for the track over here, the other track that we're going to do, all I've got to do is put it in and cut off the length of these rails to match the turntable once it's set up with this track. We're lucky we don't have 12 tracks all the way around because it's only a gallows turntable to look emotive. I've only got two tracks primarily to worry about lining up to and if you look this is working out really perfect right here. I've got these track gauges on here. I'm going to put a couple weights on it, let it set and then it'll be time to drill some holes and spike it. I use the number 69 drill bit on a Dremel to drill the holes before spiking. And then what I like to do is I take a spike, a pair of needle nose pliers, I like to dip it in this super glue. I'm using thick super glue and that'll help ensure that the spike won't slide out of its hole when it gets set in place. So you've got two things holding this now. You've got the contact cement and you've got the spikes. So I guarantee these rails, they're not going to go anywhere. This is a very good way to do this. When the super glue sets up everything's really tight. So now I need to put on the planking, drag it all the spike down. And I'm also going to put on some railings on the edge here, not hand railings, but probably six by six or eight by eight posts along the edge to create a framework for the turntable so that the guy wires coming off the center truss will have support. It's literally a bridge, it'll be built just like a bridge. So let me walk you through the rest of the process that it took to finish the turntable side of our diorama. I added 12 by 12 framing to the sides of the bridge and I drilled holes on the top and on the bottom with the number 69 drill bit for the nut and bolt castings to fit into these holes. I applied super glue to the nut casting stems and I placed them in the drilled holes on both sides underneath and top of the turntable using tweezers. Now I used a dremel and a wire brush to clean and weather off the rail so I could solder power wires to this portion of the bridge. I soldered these wires to each of the rails on the bridge with rosin core solder. I then soldered the other end of the one inch long power feed wires to the microphone jacks soldering leads and this then allowed the bridge to be powered up when it's plugged in. I applied walking planks on the bridge using Elmer's wood glue to attach the three by 12 wood planks. Now these were pre-stained before application. I cut 12 by 12 stock lumber to assemble the bridge's upper truss work. I very carefully cut the angles and put this together. I used steel stock that I had on hand that got squared edges on it so I was able to square these pieces in a steel box until the glue dried. Now I went ahead and test fit the upper structure on the turntable bridge in place just to ensure a good fit before gluing everything together and again I used Elmer's wood glue to glue the tower structure to the turntable bridge. Now I attached brass i-beam stock along the top of the tower and then I bent one 32 inch stock rail brass stock is what I used to create the effect of four guy wires under tension holding the turntable ends up evenly spaced just like on the prototype. I then soldered the guy wires to the i-beams on top of the towers just to secure everything into place. Now this is going to be really strong and permanent in the event that anybody operating turntable handles it roughly it'll survive you know complete destruction. I used a hot wire cutter to evenly cut around the turntable pit. I wanted to finish this area and what I did was I put in it I wanted to make room for a line of railroad ties that would frame the outer edge of the pit walls. I used wood glue to glue these ties around the outer walls of the pit forming the turntable pit walls I had to make sure everything cleared the bridge during the rotation so you know I checked things I spun it around and this all went together pretty well and it really looked pretty nice. I stacked the railroad ties right in the center of the bowl of the pit I made a square similarly to what I've seen in prototype photographs and this helped hold the microphone jack into place and it formed the center base and pivot point for the turntable bridge. I then refit the jack into the base making sure everything cleared the bridges swinging it around plugged it in spun it around made sure also that I had good electrical contact then I finished up the whole scene by simply placing the approach tracks in the areas where they needed to be double checking the swing clearance again for each track lead that I put down you need to get the alignment perfect for smooth running on this part and then it was time to put down some dirt and scenic the seam so I see sifted dirt I put down some weeds in the pit area I added cinder ballast along the track gluing everything into place using a very a very wet application of woodland scenic scenic cement and that pretty much finished off the diorama so let me show you now how this operates how well it works I've got a small c19 ready to be pulled on to the turntable and as long as everything's lined up which you do by hand okay a little dirty track going on there then I spin it around just like the prototype and this thing swings pretty nice I tested it a few times make sure the tracks clean before you videotape right now I gotta remember to flip the double pull double pulse switch otherwise I'm gonna have a short and I'm not gonna make it across the bridge so I flipped this switch right here where's that switch right there I felt it flip as long as I line this up this should run right off the bridge with no problem just like that no dirty track there so you've got a really cool asset now for the operation of the diorama to be able to turn around a train when you get on top of the hill and you want to go back down so next I want to work on a little area of the layout on the other end where I plan to put a few buildings a freight station a train station and also I found a home for the water tank down there I'd like to cut a road across the tracks and build a little area for the wagons and the horses and the Model T's to line up so let's just cover that portion next be sure form planer to scrape out an area here where I've decided to add some roads now if I've already put down some railroad ties in between the rails where there'll be a dirt road crossing over the tracks into an area where I've decided to put a small train station and another area over here where I'm going to put a freight house it's actually a BTS train station but I'm going to use it as a freight house in this area so you've got your water tank all the amenities of an area and I think it's going to work out really well the roads the dirt roads the smoothness of that all and it'll give a reason place to take the oars and drop off the oars or a place for passengers in addition to what we've already got what we've already built up here so just further progress on this diorama I think she's almost finished color the buildings and we're really moving right along on this you know nothing's ever completely finished but I can see this changing I can see this evolving over time as time goes on I chose to build a BTS deer lick station kit but I wanted it to more or less be a freight depot because its lines look perfect for that so I started by assembling the walls of the structure kit just like we did the single stall engine house I chose to paint this structure with oxide red focal paint I wanted the structure to look well kept I really didn't want it to look weathered or old I wanted it to look in really good condition I'm working on the trim now on the structure putting all the pieces of white parts that we painted and all I'm simply doing is I'm dipping my dental pick into the Elmer's uh the wood glue here and you simply put the parts right where they belong flush with the edges and this is why we painted the edges so that they would be lighter in color on the inside so that would match I'm also working on the windows I've got all my windows which are self-stick attached to a piece of acetate and you simply take the knife and you you cut these out which I've done to these the main window and the top sash and you assemble them together with another drop of glue just to the corners and these things fit into each opening absolutely perfectly they just a little glue around the edges and you're in business so these windows and all this trim should be enjoyable and take about an hour to do and then we'll start working on the roof so upon finally getting all the windows in place and all the trim glued pretty much to the outside of the building and I think it's time to assemble the base so I'm going to use goo I'm going to glue all these posts onto the plexiglass that's how it's going to attach and the building itself simply gets glue put around the bottom edge and then it's going to fit in the grooves of the foundation here and you don't want to you don't want to force anything but if you push it down all the parts are cut just right on this kit and it fits real nice same with the other half of the building I'll run a stream of glue around that and it slides over the base and now everything's level and flush on the plexiglass I'll put some weights inside the building to hold everything down while the glue sets up I'm just this is the test fitting before the glue and it fits beautifully on the plexiglass base and then after that process we'll start on the roof and this back porch section I've got the parts for the back porch section already pre-painted and ready to come out of the laser cut stock and the roof fits together really nice each section interlocks and this has got a porch on it which will dictate how close I can get the tracks to this building just like that so that's what I need to do next glue the base down and assemble this roof just like we did the test fit and this will work out really nice now let me explain to you how we're going to do the roof the first thing you do is you glue the roof sections together and they interlock very nicely all the pieces fit and then they've got braces these triangular nice wooden braces I just put a little glue on the edges of those and those will help the roof retain its shape and the roof can be completely removable all the time this roof won't be glued onto the structure so you'll always have access to be able to put furniture or lighting inside the structure at a later date and so this would sit right on top of there I've got all the roof brackets stuck into the front wall here and this would sit right in the place on top of there now this roof in reality is going to be a metal roof so the way you do that and the way the kit comes with all the parts to do this is it comes with some evergreen styrene very thin scribed styrene so you can place that on top to form the metal roof and then there's a lot of small pieces of fine styrene strips and each one of these will have to be laid in place and then touched with a glue needle so I get a little bit of glue on each one and have a nice clean metal roof all the way across and I'm pretty sure I'm going to paint this metal roof silver and then go ahead and hit it with some oil paints to rust it out and that'll pretty much finish the structure you get all those pieces on the styrene comes straight and you crease it you fold it here to fit the angles of the roof just like that and that would complete the roof on the structure and again it's all on a piece of plexiglass so I've got a heavy weight inside of this right now it's very heavy but you can see the roof line and now how that's going to look I'm using a hot foam cutter to cut out the area where the plexiglass base that we put underneath the freight station this base is about an eighth of an inch thick so I've got to cut into the foam about an eighth of an inch and this doesn't have to be perfect I'm just going to have the high points and fill in and just kind of tweak it a little bit and then drop the base into position after I'm finished carving this out with the hot foam cutter and I found this small BTS structure this really nice small DT&I standard station kit that they've got in HO scale and this looks like a one evening project seriously there's not a whole lot to this I'm going to start assembling the walls and then come up with a color to paint this structure the instructions are very well laid out with good photography this one should simply fall together and I really can't wait to get started on this because I really really want to finish this off with some you know turn of the century people and some lighting on the inside and just make for just a very interesting kit I've already got the space picked out on the diorama as you can see in this video I've got the footprint of the base of the structure laid out where I want to put it it's a very small footprint so let's get started on this and we'll see how this project turns out I think it's going to be a fun one to build I started the station by simply assembling the base as per the instructions and this thing I haven't even put glue on this yet and it goes together really nice the next step was to assemble the exterior walls and they're simply falling together and what I'm going to do is I'm going to paint the walls stain the woodwork and stain the floorboards and the foundation before I glue these walls together and I assembled the walls using a little bit of Elmer's carpenter wood glue now that the glue's dried on the outside walls of the train station it's time to paint this puppy I've got it all masked off with the paint so that all the stained woodwork will be protected from the white paint I'm going to paint the station and all the windows and trim white so I'm not going to do anything fancy on this and I'm not going to weather this structure I'm spraying float wool uh lacquer based paint at about 20 pounds of air pressure and let's see a spot I missed here hold on a second now if I do get any paint on the stain it's easy to go back and re-stain over it so the stain is a good dark color I got a little mist on there another way to remove paint real easy is to use a paint brush with just a little lighter fluid in it it'll take the paint right off and leave any cured paint in place now there's going to be trim that goes all the way around all of this different woodwork so it'll cover up any imperfections but this should be a relatively straightforward paint job now I'm going to paint all the trim the same way now I've got this paint thinned it's thinned about uh I want to say 40 percent paint and the rest lacquer thinner so that it doesn't go on too heavy goes on nice and thin this iowata airbrush I kind of like it it's a hb hbbcs eclipse from iowata it's uh gives a nice even spray very controllable double action airbrush as I pull back the trigger I can have more paint as I let the trigger go forward nothing comes out I pull back and the paint comes out just like that very controllable good feeling airbrush I like to put these past shea bottles on the bottom of them because that way the airbrush can always stand up when I'm using it and the one ounce bottles the airbrushes always seem to fall over if I'm spraying very very little paint I'll use a cup but for these windows and all this white washing I need a three ounce bottles these have got self-stick on the back so that we can put the windows together with acetate which is what we're going to do next after all these pieces dry now to assemble the roof on this train station it's a really easy design you simply bend it into the form of a roof it's already got a precut and then I take the elmer's wood glue and I put it on the inside where all the wooden trusses are going to fit on this so this will go together very quickly like the rest of the kit I've I've got very little time I mean I've spent a few days in between other projects working on the station but all the time added up to build it to this point I bet I'm into it for less than I want to say I'm into this thing for less than two and a half to three hours so this is seriously one of those easy weekend projects once this glue sets up and this is nice that'll paint the underneath eaves white to match the rest of the station all right so I've changed my mind on the windows I'm going to paint the windows green so I've pulled out some reading green I've pulled out the cup the pachet cup which fits just fine on the airbrush on this I want airbrush I'm going to take these windows that we've previously just painted white I'm going to spray this reading green on them just they add a little color to the station I'm not going to do all the trim just these windows these windows they got the stick them on there what I'm doing now is making sure I'm getting the size of the mullions and this will look nice this will add just a touch of color to the brown and white and then the green I took out the door because I didn't want to paint the door now that we've got our train station colored with the colors and the paint on it I want to show you something that I've done to this this is not in the instructions I built a base for this out of plexiglass simple base painted it with a little camouflage brown paint and what I'm going to do is I'm going to laminate over this with woodwork with probably two by twelve and make flooring all the way across so that you'll have a station platform in addition to the station building so after I have that completed the last thing we've got to do to finish up this kit is simply put all the trim on it put in the windows and finish off the roof so let me work on that finish this up and show you how I did all those steps to finish this project now I'm going to walk you through the rest of the process to completely finish the train station I cut out the green windows for the station with a really sharp razor knife I took my time on this to cut them straight so that they would fit perfectly into the building I used the peel and stick backing on the windows and I stuck them onto the clear acetate I put all of them on there at one time and then I used a knife to trim around the side edges of the window frames freeing them from the acetate I cut out all the trim pieces and window panes and door frames and I laid them all out so that I could see them and easily get to them this really sped up the assembly process for me I applied wood glue with a dental tool and a small amount and carefully fit the trim pieces into place the door frames the window trim all around the structure I used wood glue and I dipped the chair rail trim into the glue literally I put you know a good amount of glue on and wiped off the excess so that I could carefully put the chair rail all the way around the outside of the structure cutting each piece to size using a dental pick I applied small amounts of glue to the window edges and I carefully fit these into the model again these are laser cuts so they fit really accurate and they literally fell into place this part of the structure is kind of fun to see it go together it looks good and you can always add tape for window shades later I know this looks obnoxious but I used hot melt glue to attach the station to the base instantly I mean saving a lot of dry time and it really worked out well as I add the lower trim to the station you can see how the base helped me to keep a clean fit along the bottom edge where the planking was that's why I added the bottom when I did to this building I glued the rafters to the underside of the cardboard roof placing each one carefully to match the grooves on top of the model's walls I took my time on this to get this part right and even just to make it look good I painted the eaves under the roof white to match the trim on the structure this really made the model pop visually when the roof was put on top of the model I used master creations cedar shingles this didn't come with the kit I got these as an add-on and I randomly colored the shingles with various shades of brown colored pencils before the shingles were even pulled off of the peel and strip material this will give us a great random color effect when everything is put into place I unpeeled the shingles and carefully lined them up along the roof you need to keep these uniform and straight when you're doing this process I drew straight parallel lines along the roof as a guide to help me keep things straight I used a razor knife to cut the shingles in the valleys as they went on and they went through the l-shaped pattern just onto the dormer this kept everything even and looking really nice I installed the building smokestack and colored this uh you know with a brown color like a boxcar red color this kind of finished the building I'll add window shades and packages and people and details to the platform and otherwise it's pretty much finished but it it's one of those things where it looks uh it took about six and a half hours of building time for us to get to this point so it was really an easy kit to build I really enjoyed this one I carved the foam to fit the base of both the freight house and the train station so they both fit flush and stayed in the place on the scene awaiting interior and exterior lights sometime down the road now I scratched built the roof over the freight depot part of the building I used uh board by board methods using a stock lumber two by sixes just to make it look like uh it's an under construction appearance I made a dirt carriage road where the railroad crossing uh was to be and I used sifted dirt from my backyard to create this road I then I then uh worked this dirt with a artist brush I used artist brushes to finish it smooth and even with the wood around the rails take your time on this this part should look really good it's it's an area we're going to spend a lot of time watching the trains I sprayed woodland scenic scenic cement onto the road in the area around it just gluing everything into place and as you watch this process you may notice the background scenery I said a few minutes ago in this video that the diorama would evolve well it did and that's what we're going to talk about next we're going to talk about the evolution of creating a round loop literally turning this into a a layout unto itself and so with that that ends part three of the series as we built this beautiful turntable and a few nice buildings to complement the shelf layout now in part four we're going to build a larger five foot by 12 foot loop layout that's operationally in that the shelf layout will fit into place so look forward to that and next month's May What's Neat video so with that thank you for watching this episode of April's What's Neat and now we're going to do the Bachman interview for this April segment for What's Neat I've got Matt Stern all the way from beautiful Philadelphia Pennsylvania in the room here Matt how are you today I'm doing great Ken how are you so there's a lot of exciting things going on at Bachman Industries and today you're going to talk about some of that absolutely so I'm going to start off with some products that have actually just arrived one of these is something that has been very much anticipated by a lot of people and it's a little big so I'm going to try and fit it on the screen here this is our daylight special HO scale train set and this set is I think it's just it's a fantastic looking set obviously it replicates the Southern Pacific daylight passenger trains that ran in Southern California and actually all the way up to Oregon and it comes with the GS4 locomotive which comes with smoke it comes with a smooth side baggage car and then a passenger car and an observation car which both have interior lighting that is beautiful it is and it's something that we're very excited to see and moving to a larger scale over here we have the Evans Boss cars these at this point when we're shooting this is not shown up yet but by the time this airs this will be most likely shooting it coming to retailers so these are our Evans Boss cars I'm going to grab one here these have fantastic detail on them you can see all the posts and all the details on them here they also have end of train devices which actually function on them which is I think one of the coolest features wow so is that something that can be ordered separate or does that come on every box car so that's something that comes on all the box cars in this release we are going to be coming out with more later on that don't have that so obviously you don't want that on every car on your train you just want it on the rear so you will be able to have full consensus of these with one of those at the end and if you want to add that to a different car we also will be offering and I believe that she might already be available the end of train device on and so on as well that is cool and I am just noticing that this box is upside down this is straight out of show stock so sometimes when we're done with the show we're just packing things away we don't necessarily put them in the right way around perfect then something else which I think is kind of exciting which is coming in the last couple of months which we haven't really talked about before on this show I don't believe is the five bay roundhouse with nickel silver easy track um this is the first roundhouse that we've ever offered for easy track range it's designed to go with our DCC turntable and it's just a really cool looking piece that is beautiful I remember years ago that started out something like that in the Thomas line absolutely yeah so we had the tibmouth sheds in the Thomas line and this this is this is very similar to that in many ways but it's been designed to look like a you know the kind of roundhouse that you would find on a standard us railroad boy you're going to sell a lot of those I mean that is something that a lot of people you know they they debate whether or not they want to do this but with something like that it would make it easy absolutely and it's also a very easy to put together kit it doesn't require any glue or special tools it just snaps right together that is awesome and another locomotive that we've actually just received into stock recently this should be arriving at retailers right about now is the GP 7 this is our latest run the HO scale GP 7 we've done some paint schemes here that we haven't released in the past okay this is the the Conrail example we have Santa Fe in the the freight blue scheme and then we also have cno which I don't have a sample of here and we have Amtrak which I have out of the packaging here that's very cool are those DCC ready or do they come with decoders these are DCC ready they they're they have an 8 pin plug they're essentially you know ready to go if you get your own DCC decoder for them and they also have the housing if you want to add sound as well oh my gosh you guys are always thinking of everything that's what we try and do and we also have some I have some new samples here as well for upcoming products okay so we have the latest sample here of our train sim world 2 ACS 64 okay we had an earlier sample which we had on display some of the shows this winter and this is probably going to be our final sample I believe so this is probably the closest it's looked so far to how it's going to look when it comes out and we're very excited about it we think it looks fantastic we actually talked about that look motive on our podcast sometime back around March the 4th on that show because we talked about rap and how the railroads are using rap now to create the imagery yeah and it's funny you should mention that because that's one of the things we had to consider when we were designing this model you know typically we have a kind of a metallic sheen on our locomotives and when we were developing this we realized we couldn't use that for this because with the rap you know you have more of a matte appearance on it yes so we've done our best to try and replicate that in the pain scheme as well that's going to be beautiful and well received yes absolutely um staying in the in the Amtrak theme here we know a lot of people are going to be very excited to see these these are the first samples of our ALC 42 in end scale fully painted nice this is the phase seven example we also have the phase six version here okay and of course we have the really fantastic looking day one as well that is awesome and I've got some of your HO scale versions on the table here I noticed that yeah they're looking great and uh last but not least here got a few HO scale samples to show you these are all cabooses we also have a new sample of our upcoming csx wide vision caboose as well and this is going to be the latest addition to this range that's great and it comes with metal wheel sets it does metal wheel sets all of our cars now come with body mounted easy made mark two couplers okay so they're compatible with any couplers that you have that are knuckle coupler designs and they they work really well I've never had a problem with them no that's fantastic Matt it's always exceeding exciting to see the new products that you guys are offering it's just amazing to me the amount of products and the accuracy of what Bachman Industries has been creating in the last decade that's what we start trying to try try and strive to do now fantastic so is that everything for April this month that is everything for April um there is obviously more actually there is one more item I can show you okay all right and you may have talked about this before but I'm just going to bring it back again here and this is our large-scale best-time steel 100 ton hopper wow now that's a car where you can't just buy one oh absolutely not no you need to train at these yes oh that'll look fantastic behind the dash nines absolutely yeah and the dash nine speaking the dash nines they are shipping now they will absolutely be in retailers the time you're watching this video and uh yeah like you said these will go fantastic with them and with the Evans box cars as well absolutely Matt Matt thank you so much for sharing with the viewers of what's neat what's new there at Bachman and with that that is this segment for April's what's neat all of the products seen on this episode of what's neat are available from Lombard hobbies in Lombard Illinois or order online at Lombard hobby dot com Bachman trains now that's the way to run a railroad check out their website at Bachman trains dot com