 So I did a poll recently asking what you guys would like to see next as far as CRT videos and the winning answer was at RGB mod to the Sony KV13 TR28 television. And that's what we're going to do today. So we're going to jump in here and we're going to add RGB to this television. And the reason that this one is so special is because this is honestly one of the easiest RGB mods. It's all because of the chassis on this set and one little part in particular that being this, the closed caption card on this set. And that plugs into the main board, but you can remove this card and then inject RGB. And that's what we're going to do today. So I will have everything segmented in chapters if you want to check out each section. Plus, there's going to be a ton of detailed information in the description of this video that I would recommend you checking out if you're going to attempt this mod or if you want more information on this mod. We're going to start things off by building the SCART input. And this is going to be our input we'll be using on the back of the television to physically input RGB and sync in the form of 240p or 480i video. So we're going to build that SCART input first. Here we go. On the CRT database, there's a guide that I've linked written by Matt Ross. He wrote this amazing guide and it explains why we're going to use SCART and also gives us SCART pinouts and a guide on how to build basically the perfect SCART input for our RGB modification. So we need to have a new SCART input. Looks like this. We're going to need 375 ohm resistors. And we'll also need 3.1 microfarad capacitors. Here's the capacitors 0.1 microfarad 50 volt. And these are radial. Got some really large 75 ohm resistors. I also have my switch. And then I don't actually have a 1000 ohm resistor here. But I have 470 ohm resistors. So what I'm going to first try to do is put two of these 470s in series and go with like 940 total resistance. And I think that will be close enough to 1000 to have it safely work on our switch for engaging our RGB mode. And then all we need is just some wiring. I've got some leftover wiring. I do have some heat shrink tubing. Here's an example of that. We'll get the ground loop done first as it is on the instructions. But again, I don't have this exact solid core wire. I'm using just whatever kind of materials I have here to do this. But if you wanted to do better and make it look super clean, you could buy that wire. Okay, so the SCART input that I have on hand is right here. So the bottom row of pins down here has more pins than the top row. And the top row is our even numbers. So we're starting over here and we have number 2 all the way over to 20. And then over here we have number 1 all the way over here where it's actually in the outside plate. And that's pin 21. These are going to be our important pins to worry about. We're going to need to attach a cable to pin... Pin 4, 5, 9, 11 and 13 and 14, 17 and 18 and 21 are grounds. Those are going to be connected to the ground loop. And that's where we're going to start. So this will be pin 4 right here on the top. So I need to bend it around and have it touching pin 5. So I need to have 4 touch 5 first. So let's put some solder on. So yeah, we've attached pin number 4 here to pin number 5. We need to now have the number 14 pin down here. And then that 18 pin bent over 14 touching 13. So 14 to 13 first off right there. 18 to 17. I'm going to try this out. There we go. So leg number 1 is connected. Now let's take a look at what we've just done. We've connected 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 pins on the ground loop together. Okay. Looks like we may have done it. Let me see. Bend that like around that little post. Solder that up. Make myself a nice connection point for that ground right there. Like that ground wire. Oh yeah. We now have pins 21, 17, 13, 9 and 5 and 4 and 14 and 18 all connected on a loop. So we're going 15, 11 and 7 for red, green and blue. And we're going to add these 75 ohm resistors to our ground. So we need to basically connect from the three color signals with this resistor to ground somehow. This is a fat resistor. This is going to be tricky. Okay. So one side of these resistors is on the ground loop. The other side of the resistor connects to our red, green and our blue pin. See, we'll connect one end of this little guy to each one of these. Now we've got our terminated red, green and blue. That is also tuned to 0.1 microfarad. Now let's install some cables. We've got audio and we're going to connect a ground to the white cable I'll attach to the audio and then the black one I'll attach to the ground. And then I need to connect that blue over here. Just give a little solder on my tip. Line in that component together. We'll do that. Those are three color lines. Red, green and blue. Sink needs to go to pin 20. Pin 20 is right here. Sink baby. I made the job as almost as difficult I think as I possibly could have. So we've got our tuned red, green and blue here. So they go into the 0.1 microfarad capacitor here. All those three. And then we've got our ground loop here. And we're connecting to our ground loop in three places. We're doing it for our audio. We have one that we're going to connect close to all the video lines. And then we have another one that's going to connect with the sink line down here. And then under here is our sink. And under here is our audio. And then these are just the three resistors. And there we go. The scarthead is built. This is the way I'm going to wire my switch. So that I have my resistors on one end. The middle is just going to be no resistors. Just the standard wire. So we'll just do it like that. Look at that. Heat shrink over top of that side. That's like the prep work for our switch there. As well as the RGB modification. So here they are. Finished. The switch. And the RGB input for our SCART. Well now that we've finished up with our SCART input, let's disassemble the CRT so we can get it ready to modify for RGB input. So now we're going to do the discharge. I don't know if there's a resistor built into this Trinitron set. But there probably is. But let's just see what we get. I'll lift that up. Let me see the anode. I don't really want you to see it in case it goes smart. There it is. Unfortunately for the drama, there's nothing really there. Right there. So we'll come back and tap that ring right there. Okay. So not much grama on that one. I think I just lifted that. It kind of slips back. And then there's something on the other side. I do need to disconnect. That's my speaker. Speaker connection. That goes off there. There's a degausser. So this is our closed caption card right here. Just like on our plan said, you see right here closed caption on that CN 101. It labels the RGB and YS is the blanking pin. That's the ones we want. And then we have five volt over here. Reba. Reba. You know, you know, Sam, I love the effect that somebody would ask. I didn't even realize they were asking me to say Reba. That's hilarious. Like Reba. Reba is in one of the best made for TV cheesy westerns you'll ever see with Kenny Rogers. It's like the gambler part four. So this is the front side of our chassis. This is the backside. Now I'm going to have this so that my lines go. I don't know where I'm going to mount this thing yet, but it's going to go on that plate somewhere. Maybe like up here like this. I'm going to give it a couple of extra inches of cabling. I don't know who I pissed off today to have them send all their butts to my stream. It's like, God, it's just scary what to think will happen next. People don't knock it off. We have yellow for red, green and blue for green and blue. I'll strip these back. We're about to connect this to our board here. Hot air machine. Tighten up those little spots there. It's good. She finally got it. Guys, if you're enjoying the stream, it's a little unconventional, but if you're enjoying it, do me a favor. Drop me a like down there if you can. And that way more people will be able to come in and see whether I'm successful or a big fat failure. Is this going to work? So we could all have fun together at my expense, which is totally cool and awesome. So we're going to use a couple of different ground points over here because those will be fine. And what we're going to do is we're going to follow the guide and we're going to go in to VN over here on section 402. I'm going to go VN and then see there's right under that says LN. So that's where I can go for my audio because that'll be my audio side. And then I'll go VN. I'll do the... And then I'll connect a couple of those ground points. This is going over here for audio. Our sink on the other side. And then there's another E I can connect to right next to it so I don't have to... The point of doing it in a ground loop like that is so it has a couple of different spots. And it all loops together on a good ground. That's in there now. Check it out. We've got the ground line next to sink. Red is sink. White is audio. And then black is just the ground for audio. May just be checking out some amazing RGB footage here in a second. This is what two days of stream were all boils up or down to. Is the moment we're about to embark upon. This is our degausing cable. It goes into the power supply. This is a connection that's just a ground. I'll just put that on the cap this time. There we go. You don't need a lot. Rub that around. Brutus dog hair out of there. I'm just rubbing that jelly. Rubbing that louver out of there. Be nice and protected. Alright. There we go. That puts us to the last board to put in here. And that's this neck board. That's all we need to do. It's all up to the hands. The fate now. So let's go ahead and get something to scart. I'm going to make sure everything's working. I've got a scart cable here that I'm about to use. I do have a backup one with different type of sink. Okay. Set's not powered on. Let's see. Okay. I see. I don't. I mean nothing's blowing up yet. Oh. So there we go. Let's see. Probably that'll turn it off. There we go. Look at that. That'll turn it off. Regular video mode. RGB mode enabled. Bam. Bam, baby. How you like dim apples? Now I know it looks extremely dim. But I have to turn. I had to turn video settings way down just to try to get the the screen to kind of show up on camera. So let's increase our picture. Actual RGB on the set. Awesome. So we have our complete service menu available in this thing. So we're pumping stereo, we're pumping stereo audio just to this little, I don't know, it's like a five or 10 ohm speaker. Maybe even less than that. It's not much, but it's cool to have it there. And again, it has just a scart input to switch. I'll probably put it under here. Install it. Maybe. I don't know. Then I have to take the whole thing apart to do that. I may just, if I can find room on that back plate. Well, I'll be honest with you. As far as like doing this job, this is the easiest RGB mod. Thank you. Thank you, everybody. This was the easiest RGB mod I've ever done. I've installed our RGB input back here on the plastic plate that has the coax input and our regular AV input down here. Here's our RGB input in the form of scart. And it's been epoxied into place. And then I also have my switch down here. And if you click that switch, that will switch between using this input for RGBS and this regular composite video input for video line one. Right now I have composite video and mono audio going into video one. And the switch is turned up, which means this input is turned on. There we have Super Mario World. That is composite video right there. So now what we'll do is we will switch this over to scart input. Got my scart cable plugged in. I'm going to flip my switch to down. And there we have it. Now we're in RGB mode. Wow, this RGB signal is amazing. We've really cleaned up a lot of the colors. And the resolution has increased exponentially. Now let's take a second to compare composite versus RGB video. On the screen here you'll see Mario is in composite video on your left hand side. And then on the right hand side I've split it off to show you the RGB signal. The RGB signal is just mild, sharper, cleaner and better all around. Well that's it for the modification. It works great. Looks amazing. But if you want more information, I do have a lot of links detailed in the description of this video. So please do check those out if you need, again, more information on this modification. And thanks again for watching everybody. I'll see you next time with some more retro content.