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Published on Apr 17, 2012
Trompe-l'oeil 3D dress is the star of the Byblos Autumn-Winter 2012-2012 collection
Nothing is what it seems, but everything is possible. It's like being on another planet. Life on Mars: this is the inspiration for the Byblos Autumn-Winter 2012-2012 collection. It is another dimension where forms don't follow the rules and the lines of the models appear to be constructed directly on their bodies - as if to protect them - in an expression which breaks all the conventions to create something new. Special. Different.
It is a reinterpretation of the classic iconic lines of fashion lines where the garments, like trompe-l'oeil, are visually deceptive and - breaking from the script - they dissolve into one another thanks to a clever play of tailoring and construction: it is only one but it seems like two. The jacket lapels disappear into the garment; the garment splits and - as if peeling away - becomes two, only to be reabsorbed back into a single item. The jersey duplicates; in a play on volume, it appears diminutive from the front and is then unexpectedly exaggerated at the back with its ovoid shapes.
The knitwear stitches create 3D effects both with the wedges describing a very fine armour, as well as with the box stitch which creates a rigorous and graphic checkerboard pattern. Out of the geometric shapes - which are created by overlapping and shifting circles one on top of the other - embroidered and applied metallic thread and mirror sequins emerge; jacquard patterns appear in the knitwear and there is a new technique - thermal fusion fabric welding - which doesn't involve any sewing.
It is a classic new line, where futurism expresses itself in a riot of shapes which sing of speed; where the dialogue between proportions is inverted and gives vitality to the fractured volumes: like the coat which becomes loose, flexible, fluid; or the way the pants reinterpret the proportions of the past, come to life, and lengthen the silhouette, stopping at the calf.
Fun is in the foreground, with detailing at centre stage: hot fusions (no sewing involved) of elasticised fabric illuminate and dazzle with gold, bronze, white, or glossy black, giving a high-tech and chic feel. The leather is treated to make it refl ective and bulging, with the circle graphic achieved with rabbit fur inserts.
Original prints are born from the magic of the circle which is represented, revisited, and reinterpreted in a three dimensional key. This adds vitality to the embroidery, the detailed graphics, and the decorations along the seams and edges; the sequins -- glossy, opaque - chase each other around the wedges, 3D and almost like hill-like.
The play of colours opens up new possibilities: the combination of natural tones - beige, powder, and sand - is broken up by the classic black and white and then explodes into intense blocks of colour -- fuchsia, silver, red, and turquoise.
The accessories also include blocks of colour, rigorously fractured: such as the fluorescent inserts of the lightweight belts, or the latex gloves - also in fluorescent or nude colours -- creating a surprisingly translucent effect and ending above the elbow; or with the fingerless glove look, providing protection from the UV rays of a whole new dimension.