 Good morning Dale. Morning. Karl's not been yet, so we're not going to get maximum performance. Not maximum performance. So what we'll do is when Karl arrives we'll have a little commercial break, that's the one, and then we'll come back and talk about this car. Cool. Let's go up our feelings as well if you want. We've seen that before. Right. I'm making you nervous. That's so nice. Who have we got in the bay today, Mr Dale? Dave. We've got Dave the trimmer in with his freshly painted and freshly trimmed caddy. So we're going to be talking about how to refine the paint after it's been through the body shop and then protect it as well, because it's had enough time painted in February. Yeah, got our paint February. So that's a good amount of time for the paint to fully cure and degas, which means we've put a sealant on there now and protect it. Nice one. So today's day in the bay will be focusing on how to protect and care for your new paint. Good job. So we're going to do our usual regime that people always see on the day in the bay. So we're going to be going through the waterless system. So we're going to be using the waterless washing wax anywhere, and then we're going to be using the water wheel and tire as well. So we're going to get the car prepped and we're going to have a feel and see if it needs clay barring. Then we're going to go through some new products that have just come over from America for us to play with. So everyone knows our traditional 105 and 205. This is an advance on them. So it's the 110 and the 210. The good thing is these have got longer buffing cycles so you can work the product for longer on the surface. Especially with the 210, we could probably get a bit more refinement out of that. So we're going to have a look because it has been in the body shop. You know, it has been rotary polished, there is a bit of marring on the paint. So we're probably going to skip the 110 and go to the 210 and go for more of a refinement stage on it. But before all that, we're going to get it cleaned. So we've washed the car down. We've clayed it as well. There wasn't really much of it. They needed clay. There was a bit of overspray on the roof so we've addressed that. So we're just looking now at the paint. It's been machine polished. It's been kind of cut back and polished using a rotary. But we can see that the colour is not exactly as clear as we want it to be. We want to bring that clarity from the reflection. So I'm going to go to our yellow polishing pad and our Ultra Pro finishing polish. We don't want to overly cut the paint because it's already been cut. Now we want to back off on that and enhance the gloss that's there. So for us to just keep churning out it with a cutting compound and a cutting pad is not going to do it any favours. We want to refine that and kind of back off and give it some gloss. So normally when I'm doing kind of like detailing paint correction, I'd use a microfiber pad. I'm sorry because he's cut quicker but also because of phone backing they stay cool. And because this is single stage, the paint clogs up the fibres and it's harder to clean out with a phone because it's got the open pores that can be hoovered out after each pound. That's why sometimes choosing the right pad for the right paint. Spread Pro like normal. Go to Swirl and Default removal which is my go-to kind of 5-8 to 4-8. And because it's more of a polishing compound than a kind of cutting compound we can work a bigger surface area. If I was just using the regular kind of cutting compound I'd probably reduce it to that. Because it's a slicker product we can work it a bit more. So if you stand right in the middle now, see how cloudy that looks in comparison. Like I said all we're doing is taking that grey haze that's on the surface of the paint. You can really see it on that, can't you? Yeah and it's bringing out the colour. Because what the hazing does is it's scratched paint so it's going to make it grey. And that's why you just get that dulling of the colour. But now we're just going to give it some body and like I said we don't want to overwork the surface so now we've done that. We'll probably leave that now and then wait until we get to the waxing stage. So now Dave's going to have a go. The pad's already been primed so you don't need to load it with products again. All you need to do is top it up with the amount of product you want per section. So we're talking about the size of your average garden pizzeria. That's it. Where you're comfortable with it. If you're going to hold it there I'd go around the side of it. Like that Nick. Right. Keep that like that. Yeah. Take your hand down the side here. And cut the front. You don't have to do that. You don't have to do that. Mr. Dave touch me. That hand is the balance. So that's making sure that pad is flat. So you know you mentioned earlier there was like hazing lines and it stuff like that. Because someone had it on an edge. This hand is the guide just telling the machine where to go. Use the weight of the machine only. And then use these lines on the backing plate to see if it's spinning okay. You'll notice if you make small adjustments with the backhand it will kind of freed up and spin it easier. Right. So it's just getting comfortable in the machine. Okey dokey. That's like that. Dave up and running with the machine puller. We just want to show you something that maybe you've got a vehicle like this. So Dave's had these sign writing hand painted on the car. So what you want to do is essentially avoid it. So if you've got a smaller head for the machine you can do around these areas. But I'd advise never really going over these unless they clear coated into the paint. Right one way plus the other. I think my side looks better than yours. That's cute. It's going to be using the gold class wax. That was pretty darn smooth. So we've got two kinds of wax. We've got synthetic waxes. Which I use for dark metallic cars. And we've got cannibal waxes. Which I tend to use on kind of more retro kind of colours like your solid pastels. Stuff that hasn't got metallic in it. The reason is it's naturally toffee coloured. Or kind of brown or yellowish. Which means instead of giving this a wet look that dark cars get you want to give it a warm depth. Which means that the cannibal kind of feed into that paint and just give it a real brightness. Because when people come up and say you know I want your best wax for my car. The first question we always ask is what colours your car. Because our best wax isn't necessarily your best wax. And there's no point standing on the wrong wax for the wrong colour car. So it's always good like synthetics, darks and metallics, cannibas, light colours. Get the pad. Pinch the top of the pad. Put it on the wax. It's half a turn. That's enough now to hold on it. Possibly the wings. Wow. Yeah so people tend to use a lot of wax and it becomes a chore to take off. Where it should be the easiest part. You really want to back off from the paint and be quite nice to it essentially. So you know how we prime the pad, we prime the surface. We're going to do the same with the wax. I'm just going to draw three lines across the bonnet. And then over these lines it's going to do one pass. A little bit, just a amount of pressure to keep the pad flat. But that's it. That's all you need to do. Now we've enhanced the gloss. We want to protect it. The finger swipe test. And we can see that that's nice and cured now. Again, we're going to do exactly what we've been doing every step of the way. Wipe one way. Dusty away. So on some of the small areas and a bit more sensitive areas around trim and once we do the sound writing we've used the free inch pad. Bees actually give a quicker cut. Because it's a smaller pad it will actually cut the paint quicker. So we reduce the speed on the machine and kind of increase the arm movements on that. But Dave's doing the kind of bigger sections using what he learned on the bonnet. So now we've got the whole car kind of refined. We're now going to move on to protecting the whole car with wax and then giving it a final detail. And then we're done. We've waxed the car now so we've refined it using the 210. And then we've protected that using the gold class wax which is perfect for these kind of colours and the kind of more old fashioned kind of solid base coat kind of gloss colours. Now we're going to give it the final touch. So I'm going to get Dave to go around with a mirror bright detailer. I'm going to get him to haze the whole car. And this will settle on a kind of wax first user still on there. And we're just going to wipe it down to give it that glossy final finish. So I'm going to do the glass just as a final touch and then send Dave on his way. So that's another day in the bay done. Just to recap what we've done and why we've done it. We cleaned the car using our washing wax anywhere. We cleaned the wheels and tyres using our waterless wheel and tyre cleaner. So we used our Bodyshop Ultra Pro finishing polish. It's odd because this came fresh from the paint booth. We wanted to use something that's going to refine the paint without taking too much off it. So it's still got a little bit of cut on there but it's high in polishing oils to give it a real glossy finish. As you can see it's not like our regular consumer products. This is from the Pro range and so it's Bodyshop Safe. And then we used our Canoeva base wax to give it a real brightness and depth of gloss. Then finished it using the mirror bright detailer to remove any kind of excess residues from the wax and to give it an outstanding shine. So that's it for day in the bay. I'm done.