 So this mannequin actually has a little bit of an undercut so I wanted to recycle this thing but it's actually gonna kind of work to our benefit as well. All right so I'm gonna comb everything straight back towards me and then what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go parietal ridge on both sides so follow that. Parietal ridge is kind of where the hair starts to fall where the curve of the head goes down so what I'll do is I kind of comb this back and then I'll look right in the middle of the eyebrow and that's about where I'll take it so there's not going to be a ton of hair because we have that undercut and then I'll work this around here then I'm going to come across across mid crown so I'm creating a rectangle lying across parietal cross mid crown and then I'm going to connect it back on this side. Now a little fun fact we've got this point here so in order to get a balanced point on the top of the head what I'll do is I'll turn this and I'll figure out where that point is and I'll balance it with my thumb so where my thumb is is where I want to connect these two points together and I'll comb this forward just to get the hair kind of flowing in that direction and then I'll take it from back here and to my thumb and once it hits my thumb I know exactly that I've got that point exactly where I want it in the front of the head and I've got a nice balanced top. Now it might not be perfect every time I'll take a look at it and see but it's closer than you probably would get without doing that. All right now we've got the parietal ridge separated so now I just go through and I make sure I clean up that section fully so I'm going to start working on the sides and I'm going to connect no matter what if I had this undercut or not I actually like the length of this undercut I would work diagonal back so I'm going to connect those I'll probably take a little bit off this undercut so you guys can see a little bit of a slight change in it here we go so diagonal back parting about finger width section I comb it out and now what I want to be careful of is this hair is going to flow over the top this way so I don't want to build up too much weight by shifting my finger angle back I want the finger to stay nice and tight to the head so I'll do a slight bit of elevation right here cutting down then I'll recomb and shift my finger angle in towards the head you can see not too much of a build up of weight here but a slight bit just so it kind of works with the curve of the head but shifting that finger angle really helps with that so now diagonal back parting bringing that to the previous so now we're going to be working with a traveling guide here like that that connects into that undercut same thing comb it up to the previous just working with a little bit of elevation so I'm not building up too much of a weight line so the key for me is this elevation right here the head shape is shifting right so because the head shape is shifting over if I were to keep this elevation really low it would get heavier and heavier because of the head so just making sure that as I comb my section diagonal back and I bring this up here my finger I want to check this angle not to be too low but to be straight just like that and that's a basically a 45 degree angle at that point this is 90 out of the head so you can see that that's at about 45 this would be about zero right so just coming out that 45 degree angle is going to help get a nice soft graduation in the cot and we're just continuing around the head now what changes is when we get to this back portion here so what I'm going to do is I'm going to continue through the back bringing it to the previous but now once I start in this next section I'm going to start more of a stationary guide at this point so now because I started to over direct it this gets a little bit heavier so I keep continuing through the back bringing it over to that point and that's just going to start pushing weight into that center crown area the reason I like that is because I like to have a little build up of weight in the crown I don't want to continue through here and just remove all this weight I like having that kind of nice angled feel to the weight distribution just sitting right at the occipital bone right there and remember this is going to get long but we're going to do the same thing on the opposite side so then we'll crisscross and cut it off and after this section I can actually stop because all of this hair will be cut again but you can see how much longer it gets how heavy it gets over here we're pushing that weight that way and we're going to come back around the other side and now biggest difference here is that my fingers are going to be pointing down on the other side they were pointing up this is more for combing purposes to make sure that I'm always combing the hair in the same direction which is towards the face as I work my way through elevation the struggle here with elevation and where a lot of people have issues is because your elbow is now in the air so I'm lifting my elbow up like this and anytime you lift your elbow it wants to fall just naturally so you got to make sure you keep this angle and focus on that elbow even though it doesn't feel as comfortable it's still important to make sure that that's exactly where you're focused throughout this cut so diagonal back comb it towards me lift that elbow up cut along the guide now if I didn't have an undercut I would obviously just continue this cutting all the way down and shift my finger angle to make sure that I was basically 90 degrees out from the head shape all the way down so I would continue through here all the way down and shift my finger angle to the head as I came around but because of the previous undercut it's just making our lives a little bit easier and you also don't want to start the over direction of this corner too early so like as we start bringing everything over I don't want to start that too early because then I'll get too much weight in there I just want a subtle bit of length in this center area so if I started it here I would push too much weight and it would just look funny and look balanced so as I go through and I'm really being aware of when I start that over direction this is coming straight out from the head still until I round that corner so this will just pull this whole section over but that's kind of why I'm creating this build up of weight in the center so you guys can see here how it builds up it's got a little bit of extra weight and then kind of tucks in a little more towards the neck that's that hair this hair here was built by that over direction in the back so pulling everything to this corner on each corner pushed that extra weight into the center all right now I would say the fun part but I think the fun part is going to be the dry cutting part but we're going to take down the top comb it all forward then what I'm going to do is I'm going to create over direction but I want this haircut to flow this way to the right hand corner so because I want that to flow what I'm going to do is I'm going to take diagonal partings on the opposite side that I want it to go right so bring it over here I'll show you this partings so you can see it so it's kind of diagonal back into this corner this is the side we want to flow to this is the side we're going to bring it to so here and you can see kind of this angle instead of it being straight across like this has a little bit more of an angle to it now I'm going to turn like this so you can see that over direction happen so just know this is the front right hand side corner right here and I'm bringing everything back to the back left hand side corner and I'm taking my guide from this point right here so that's where we're going to start our cut it's going to come straight across so now I'm point cutting across because I want to add a little bit of texture to it we're going to do even some more texture in the in the dry portion of this cut as well I'm just continuing these partings across the head taking the partings diagonally and then over directing back to the stationary guide now I am cutting past my second knuckle some of you guys ask about that I'm not worried about tension in this part of the haircut so much and you will see me re combing and kind of working through that's the only reason you shouldn't cut past your second knuckle is because of tension has nothing to do with cutting yourself I have cut my first knuckle many times this is where it's going to get really extreme because if you think about what's happening the head's starting to curve down so not only am I over directing this back just like I did the rest of them but this hair is coming from even further because it's got to go around that round of the head so this will actually fall pretty heavy but that's okay because we're going to go in and cut it dry as well and I want to go in there and texturize it a bunch and customize it so we're not always cutting hair to the length that we want it to be um sometimes we're just pushing weight forward so that we can mess with it later that starts the kind of overall picture of the cut we're going to blow it dry that shouldn't take long short hair I'm going to use invisible wear memory shaper so I'm going to work that in to the style I like using a gel on short hair because if you blow dry your hair like if you don't just put in your wet hair and go it can get crunchy and that's not really what we're going for but if you put it in the hair for the blow dry whether you're a male or female it works really well in controlling the style and adding volume into the hair so just having that memory that you're kind of working through it so that's one of the key things that I really love about using gel and what I'll teach a lot of the guys in the salon is use that product as your base then put your finishing product in once the hair is dry so what I'm going to do to uh to dry the hair because it's a mannequin I'm going to work a little closer to the scalp than I would on a human I'm working my way back and forth I'll do a little bit of leafing kind of lift the hair up that'll give me a little bit of volume but also pull tension on the hair to give me some of that smoothness and the shine as well but I'm just going to work this hair down and then through the top I'm going to work back and forth using the head as kind of a roller working that head shape so that I don't have a part in the hair because my goal is not to have a parting in the hairstyle all right so we'll fire this bad boy up so now I'm going to smooth it the reason I like to iron the the hair before I cut it is just to get it really nice and smooth right now this is not very fun to cut this kind of thicker texture so what I'll do is I'll take she's going to wear it this way so I'll take diagonal partings take out some of the hair just a little bit bring that over to me now I'll brush it but then I hold it with a lot of tension in my hand this is something that I learned a long time ago when you're smoothing hair is to hold that tension nice and tight just like you're going to cut it put the iron up in the hair and then keep that tension as you pass through what that's going to do is allow less passes with the iron so you can do just maybe one two passes and you get a nice smooth result as opposed to working the hair holding in your hand or just kind of going through with the iron like this passing over it now that's hot there's nothing wrong with that but at the same time you can do a lot less passes if you just hold that tension in there and work the iron across now the other thing about ironing hair for for cutting is that you shouldn't have to do too much work at the base because we work that flat wrap technique back and forth through it you shouldn't have to worry about ironing the base to smooth it you should have smoothed that with your brush and blow dryer now we're just working mid shaft to ends and kind of finalizing everything continue moving this over and ironing it this way now I'm going to go back through the opposite way same thing diagonal take some of the hair bring it over to me and iron it through give it a slight bend pretend like I'm kind of following the head shape through it and I'll just keep working my way until I get to the end here and there we go piece of cake let me show you the rotation you can see disconnection under there and disconnection there so this whole front is disconnected we're going to cut some short pieces in here connect them but make them short to long in the front create that texture we already have texture up here I'll do a little bit more point cutting and then we should be good to go on this style so now I'm going to work on a stationary guide again that stationary guide is going to come from this corner and just like I brought everything back to this corner to cut it to make it long over here I'm going to do the same thing bring everything here if you want hair to go from short to long just works in a stationary guide pull everything to one place then it gets longer and longer and longer as you pull it over so here we go coming over to me just like this I'm going to mimic my finger angle with the head shape I've got a guide from the point here you don't have to use that as a guy but I want to connect the back as well now I've got some short pieces starting around the eye so I take another piece and I bring it up over that guideline point cutting it to create texture you can see now all of a sudden we've got this texture happening and we're working our way across the forehead now this will again get a little more extreme because the head's starting to round off here so this last piece is going to come even further than the rest to give me that extra length so don't be afraid of how short you think this is going to get because that last little bit really throws it over the edge literally bring it over it's barely even anything to cut this point so now you've got short to long you can see it coming through just like that you can start to see that texture building now we're going to do some slide cutting grab the wider comb this is a ys park 332 helps me get through dry hair a little bit easier and what I'm going to do is I'm going to comb everything straight down and I'm going to start working by pinching the hair just like this my scissors over top and I'm just going to slide in and create not only some of the links that I want right around the corner of the eye here but also just more texture and take out some of this bulk so stationary guy does create a little bit of bulk depending on the density of the hair so I go through here I just soften it up give it a little more modern effect cool disconnection really really digging it all right now I'm going to go through the top same diagonal back partings but just a little bit of point cutting in just to break it up all right point cut little extra texture up there taking out some density all right so this is invisible wear cloud whip from Paul Mitchell thing I love about this product is that it's a really light cream doesn't have a ton of hold so doing like a finished style with it you can work it in it gives a lot of texture to the hair but it's not really crunchy it's not firm it doesn't like feel like you have a ton of products in your hair so I'll work that into this hairstyle you can see it really like coming to life now matching up with our inspiration let me pull that up actually I thought it was a joke when she put it up there and then it's a cool haircut so so what do you guys think